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« on: November 29, 2012, 06:55:44 PM »
I too have fought and lost this battle more than once.
The technique I have developed which works well for me is pretty much a combination of several of the previously detailed techniques.
First, I clean everything to the point where I wouldn't feel bad about putting the stuff in my mouth.
Then I'll install the seal halves cocked at about 2 o'clock/8 o'clock. I'll put a small dab of silicone on the end of the mating points of the two seals.
Then I'll drop the cap in, putting a small smear of silicone on the mating faces first.
Once the cap is in place and torqued in sequence with the other caps, I'll inject some silicone into the end seal slots, using the pencil tip extension that comes with the tube to get down as deep as I can.
After that, I'll push the rubber end seals in as deep as I can, which usually forces some silicone out through the mating surfaces of the cap and block. Once the rubber seals quit progressing, I'll use the little metal nails and a small hammer to drive the seal the rest of the way in. This will typically force more silicone out, which I'll then wipe off. If the seals and nails don't go all the way in, I'll cut off the excess.
Then, before I drop the gasket on, I'll put a little extra dab of silicone on the main cap parting line.
Works for me so far.
Interesting to read the thoughts on breather cap efficiency and the lack of cross-hatching on aftermarket cranks. These both make a lot of sense.