48" Square welding / fabrication table made out of 1.50" thick steel plate.

      - 1/2"-13 Holes drilled and tapped on a 6" pattern for use with machinist setup clamp kit.
      - 6" Polyurethane Casters for easy maneuverability
      - 38" High
      - Weight: A bit over 1000 lbs.

Edges are flame cut and not machined square.

Plenty of room underneath to add tool storage, or a welder mount, etc.

Table is located in Springfield, MO.  I am willing to deliver to any location within a few hundred miles there of at $0.60 / mile, as long as you can unload it.

Message me for any more details.

At my previous house, I had a stand alone 5000W gas powered generator.  I had an electrician install an outside plug and breaker switch so in the event we lost power, I could just plop the genny down, hook up the cord, throw the breaker and have power in about 10 minutes.  As lalessi alluded to, the hardest part was staying on top of maintenance and making sure it was ready to go when you needed it.  I tried to run it at least once a year for a few hours, just to keep up on it.  That genny had a Tecumsah engine and was LOUD.  It wasn't big enough to support the electric floor board heat, or the electric boiler for the in-floor heat.  However, it could run the blower and heat pump / AC on the natural gas furnace, keep the lights on, and the fridge cold.  I.E. keep the house from freezing up even if we were without power for a few days in sub-zero temps.

With the new house, we are in the process of installing a 40 kW solar system.  Since we opted not to put in a battery system (Holy Shit is Elon proud of those damn things), we installed a Generac Natural Gas genny along with the solar.  The goal is to be able to be off grid for extended periods of time if needed (or as long as the city is providing natural gas).   

I am still looking for a PTO driven genny to mount on the front of my vintage Wheel Horse.  However, that is more just for style points, then being terribly useful.

Merc, are the new gen powdered iron "cracked" rods not rebuildable/resizable on their big end?  Randy M

We don't here.  We rebush the small end, but if the big end is damaged, throw them away, and get new.  Supposedly there are guys resizing Chebbie LS and some other automotive fractured rods, but with these big 13 to 15 Liter CAT, PACCAR, and Navistar motors, it is easier and more cost effective to just replace the rods.

The 13MX PACCAR's and A26 Navistar's even use a fractured main cap.  So if the motor spins a main bearing and walks a cap, the whole block is junk because once the fractured surface is deformed, the cap never mates up properly again.

Rod length is going to play into your piston location as a product of crank angle equation as well, see an example diagram below.  Longer rods increase dwell time at top dead center.  I would suggest you put a quick Excel spreadsheet together with your variables to understand the order of events, the equation describing piston position is in the 2nd diagram, solve for x.  Injection timing is critical on a diesel with regards to piston location, the spray pattern from the injector is matched to the shape of the bowl in the piston in order to get ideal swirl and fuel atomization.  Firing that injector too soon or too late, can result in burnt pistons, poor combustion, detonation, etc.  A spreadsheet will tell you how much the piston location is going to change from one stroke length to the next with regards to crank angle. 

Cool project.  I subscribed to your channel.

I have an '85 Bullnose Dually that shat the 6.9 in the spring of '21.  I ended up putting a 7.3 shortblock under the 6.9 heads and installed the 7.3 Turbo and intake.  I am also running the original T19 4 speed with an Advance Adaptors Ranger Gear splitter OD.  Much different truck with the IDIT in it. Let me know if you have any questions, although I won't be much help with the 4x4 conversion.

Jim is likely correct.  Take it off, get some cheap rubber plugs, and put LOW psi air to it and squirt with soapy water if you want to find the leak for yourself.  Otherwise, take it to your local rad repair shop. 

I have been in the market for a new mill as well recently, and as a primer, I took an advanced manual machining course at a local Tech School this winter to refresh some of my skills as it had been 15 yrs since I was in school, and the job has become much more desk orientated.....  First day the instructor points to the row of Jet lathes and states "J E T = Junk", next the 2 Grizzly mills, "Grizzly = Garbage"  Being that I now live in Springfield, that soured me on Grizzly, even though it is still fun to walk through their scratch and dent show room from time to time and pick up some deals.

I will 2nd Falcon67's suggestion of Precision Matthews. 

Also, Watch some of Abom79's videos.  The guy is an expert machinist and generally seems to have pretty good advice on equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV0ldiD7-qU