Ok so first up is lots of crank end play, have not gotten engine out yet but guessing it is between .05 andd .1.
I know torque convertor had lots of forward and back shaft play before I bolted it up so I don't suspect an issue there but will check as I disconnect trans before pulling motor.  If lots of play then ballooning wouldn't be an issue correct?

What I am wondering is what else could cause thrust bearing wear?  Want to keep my eyes peeled as I disassemble and not miss something.  My biggest fear here is getting the thing all tore down and not knowing WHY this or that happened.

I also have a worn brass gear on the distributor, gotta refresh myself on that, I intentionally installed it after doing what I thought was proper homework at the time but recent reading suggests it should not have been brass.  MSD distributor on a Lykins custom cam.

More to come but any thoughts on causes for serious thrust bearing wear other than trans/convertor related?
That may still be it but just curious what to look for as I go here.

Thanks

Yeah, took a closer look at the filter today, plenty metallic particulate present, you could see a couple drops of oil extracted from the filter migrate towards the magnet, crap.

Did not see copper but will take a closer look for that, was focusing on shiny and magnetic.

A couple turns seems excessive, don't recall what instructions say but I just backed mine out a 1/2 turn before torquing.
I think there are a couple reasons to do this, likely more I can not think of, none of which justifies 2 turns out.

Disimilar metal expansion, if stud is bottomed the system is over-constrained and heat will cause something to give
If the stud turns in while torquing you could jack the helicoil out, not knowing what load you are applying, of course it should not move anyways if everything is lubed well
Just a couple guesses

Powermaster 9606, 4 years on a stroker no issues, thing seems to be a beast.

Thanks all, was hoping this would be a quick fix, not that the proposed ideas are too big of a deal.
No clearance for taller covers on drivers side, will look at separation methods, was thinking a pcv up an inch or two off of the back flange would by me some distance from the oil and if large enough diameter reduce air velocity so the oil stays low, maybe add some mesh, so might try and fabricate a little tube extension so to speak with mesh and pcv on top.

Thanks again.

Turn a large can of compressed air upside down and chill the shaft both sides of the gear as fast as you can while puller is loaded up on the gear, then give it a smack or tighten puller more.
Will take a whole can of something or cobble together some way of applying dry ice to the shaft only as much as possible, -50C or more does wonders for shrinkage.  Heck both parts super chilled will behave much different.

About 10 years ago flying down to Texas in a small twin turbo prop corporate aircraft a radio call comes in, "Death 1 requests your flight path, reduce altitude 1000 feet" (or something like that), needless to say we did and sure enough overhead we could see a stealth bomber and a couple of escort fighters alongside, kind of fun to see.

Not as hard as you think, convert the garage to a paint booth, do your prep work, and have at it like a robot, practice on a fender or something.  Two stage not that bad and self satisfaction worth it, equipment and materail will run you ~$2k if you already have a decent compressor.  I did mine and while not a show job not bad in the end, used HOK products.
One full day of 3 paint coats plus 3 coats of clear, then of course there is several days of wet sanding and buffing it out.
After some 1500 and 2000 grit the 3M 3 stage products worked well.