Since my name is Dale I might as well comment. Many many years ago I ran an 11.81 @ 116 MPH. Once some online calculators like Wallace came along both those numbers seem legit. I have no idea how a Moroso slide rule works but is also very accurate at predicting numbers. That said.......

Picking up some tenths is a huge improvement and you can't MPH without HP. Better 60' time will likely bring your ET in line with the MPH. Ignore what "other" cars are running. I also didn't review your Combo but if an auto then I'd be looking at a better Convertor for starters. More rear gear will also help lining up the numbers.

Something else that many will call BS but I know to be factual is if you are spinning hard at the start line then your MPH will tend to go up a little. Why you ask?? Because the car is basically taking a run at the 60' clocks and once it hooks the power will make MPH but your 60' time will look dismal. Been there many a time. My 390 will generally 60' around 1.42 and run a 10.20 over 132 MPH. Rory's Fairmont 60's way better which means a better ET but similar MPH. 

So we've established that he's still on Earth which is a good thing but how does one contact him? His phone number is disconnected, website and Facebook out of date and he's likely busy. I understand the supply chain problems and a Friend is looking for some items the Doug may or may not be able to find.

All I have to add is that I put a bronze gear on my (not for racing) Unilite about 16 years ago and have used the same setup on 3 engines with 3 different Cams. 2 were/are Solid Rollers and one was a cast Solid. Still running to this day with no obvious issues. Granted, not a high mile car but hundreds of Drag Race passes. Never had a steel gear nor saw the need however your results may vary.   

Probably find lots of info on YouTube but a good Diesel mechanic would be your best bet.

I've managed to mangle the bottom end of my 390 pretty badly with a broken rod and the Std. ARP rod bolt looked fine afterward. I'm never going to be in the world that needs a L19 or better bolt however this is very valuable info so thanks to Brent for starting the discussion. 

I think I'd like to try the TF t-Wedge but my 390 currently runs fairly well with mildly ported E-brocks and a stock BT MR 2x4 so curious if there was any gain to be had. Hardly worth the investment for a few HP although the -Wedge cool factor is worth something. Has anyone compared the BT vs TF as far as flow and performance ?   

I'll take some pictures in the next couple days. My car is legal so no need to do more. Battery in the trunk is another fuzzy area but if you use a gel cell like an Optima then things get simple. Steel braided fuel lines with an anti siphon vent tube will be your friend at tech. The better it looks the less they check and neither of us are running NHRA National events.