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Messages - runthatjunk

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31
I get needing to hone them for NEW rings, if I was planning on another 100k+ miles that makes perfect sense.  What I don't get is that the same polished rings back into the same polished bores supposedly is crazy and will use lots of oil.  If it wasn't using oil before why would it start from simply removing and reinstalling the piston? 

And how the heck does a rod bore spread towards the parting line and tighten lengthwise?  One rod has done that by about .0015"

 

32
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Why new Rings, Why rough up a smooth bore?
« on: July 13, 2018, 07:00:28 PM »
Looking for the science/technical reasoning behind this.

The question is if you have an engine that's not burning oil, high mileage, great looking bores with no ring ridge, why can't you just clean it all and put it back together.  Nearly every post I've read online says that new rings and scuffing the bore is mandatory.  Nearly every post I've read says if you don't it will be an oil burner.  Why?

It's on an 06 ford v6.  So fairly modern piston and ring package.  I couldn't believe how nice the bores looked,  It just seems a shame to rough up the walls that have been polished so nice.

The downside I don't know that i'm sold on the sintered metal cracked rods, the concentricity was only decent on about 2 of the 6 rods.

33
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Torque wrench preferences
« on: November 30, 2016, 10:47:44 AM »
I would be wary of craftsman, they have changed to made in China on a lot of that stuff.   I bought one last year,  paid the better price of two on the shelf, and was rather disappointed to find out it was made in China once package was opened.

34
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cooling upgrades
« on: August 02, 2016, 10:59:38 AM »
That rear end is kinda epic......


I am kind of an electronics guy, wondering about the 3 relays...
As Jay pointed out, most of the "standard" or "unoversal" relays have 2 contacts, one provides a path for current when the relay is off, the other provides a path for current when the relay is energized.
Most instances ignore the OFF pole, however since your set up has 3 relays, I'm wondering if the third relay puts the fans in series, this would allow both fans to run at half speed.

The way I see it it would require two double pole double throw fan control relays to make it go series in order to run the fans at half or full voltage which is an interesting idea I think it would require a couple of diodes in  the circuits somewhere though

35
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE Firing Order
« on: July 22, 2016, 09:00:58 PM »
Cylinder are 90deg apart and motor fires every 90 deg.  No reason it can't work, at least every ford I've owned seems to do ok with it.

36
I may have misunderstood, but one of your posts stated you grounded the negative side of the coil in search of a better spark and saw no significant change.   Grounding the negative side of the coil should cause no spark at all since the circuit becomes constant and never switches, since the positive side of coil should be wired to a constant voltage.



Missed that engine was experiencing run on prior to plug change.


37
That should have caused no spark at all, since that is where the switching is done to cause the spark.  I don't understand why grounding case of coil would make a lick of difference.

Your mechanic changed plugs, those could be a part of the dieseling condition also

38
"Drivers, real funny car drivers, like Ron Capps were furious at the thought of this. The cars have become exponentially more difficult to drive and he’s loving it."

I would say NHRA did it because of this, that much difference in handling and they still hadn't laid them all the way back going for a little more.  Pretty cool stuff

39
Even at per pipe it would still only account for no more than that on the whole vehicle since the 800 pounds is a pulse and not constant

40
Just means you can't advertise or post a price that's cheaper.   That's part of reason many sites will have a "call for price" notation

41
FE Technical Forum / Re: Runout on Flywheel
« on: October 11, 2015, 03:50:14 PM »
" The place he left unground was where I set "0" on my indicator and his "high point" opposite "my 0" was .010" too low. "

That comment makes me think the machinist screwed up.  Can't say if it will cause problems but sure won't help any

42
Has this happened since manifold install? Wondering about possible vacuum leak?

43
FE Technical Forum / Re: Car dies when I give it gas
« on: March 06, 2015, 11:38:36 AM »
First somebody tell me what carb he currently has, I'm not familiar with it.

2nd was spark ever verified when it dies???

why get another carb just yet?
if carb was fine and now not, it may be as simple as needle and seat sticking/dirt not letting in more than a dribble of fuel.

also looks like fuel filter between fuel line and carb, clogged maybe.

personally I enjoy the challenge of figuring out what went wrong before throwing parts at a problem.

44
FE Technical Forum / Re: Car dies when I give it gas
« on: March 05, 2015, 10:33:15 AM »
Are you sure its getting gas? disconnect line at carb and ruin. into container it should move a lot of gas on every
Revolution.

accelerator pump diaphragms get very stiff causing reduced or no pump  shot

Rig up wire from cylinderand watch it spark while idling, then give it some gas and see what happens as long a there is sparking it will probably light off mixture in a stock engine

A bad distributor cap can cause this by the spark going to a cylinder with no compression due to carbon tracking

45
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE Block Filler
« on: October 27, 2014, 12:20:55 PM »
I would vote for am epoxy type of filler.  seems to me it would be more likely to "stick"to the block and sleeves, making it a little more solid with the movement of the aluminum expansion.

however its just theory for me as I have no experience in these matters.

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