thanks for the info guys.i think i can put a bolt and nut thru the z bar and tighten the play out.i have a little slop in my clutch pedal too.it goes sideways a little when mashed.i have the right lube,it took a while to find but its right.

are there anything you can do to improve high rpm shifting with a TL short of removing it or swapping for something different.when i wind up past 6000 my trans gets harder to shift.it makes me lose a lot of et with the slower shifts.trans is fresh,new shifter,clutch,flywheel.if i stay below 5500 its shifts great

i was wanting to get my heads CNC worked and a solid roller but i didn't want to tear a almost new engine partially down and cost right now before Christmas. my receipt at the machine shop was over 3 feet long and the last thing the machinist said as i was going out the door was[boy,that would make a nice nitrous motor]i believe i will take my chances. so it will either take the extra hp or it wont

its only a 100 shot.most people with negative comments are afraid to take chances.what about the dreaded flat tappet cam going flat at break in.or too much boost on a blower or turbo.im serious about every thing i do.anyone who knows me can tell you.im sure if something happens those same guys will say,i told you so.and maybe one or two might would wish it.i looked back at all the nitrous posts and the same people left simular comments on every post.some of these newly developed hi-po parts maybe should just be used on aftermarket blocks,too much bang for a stock block..wait,that sounds like a negitive comment,forget i said that.just a comparison.

i drive my hotrod a lot, in the winter also.i noticed in cold weather when i get my car out the first few miles my street slicks act up till they get some heat in them.i have took off many times wondering if something was wrong back there

Can the wot switch on the carb serve as the interrupt switch if set to where your foot has to press all the way down to activate n20 and if i let off the throttle a little between shifts will it disarm for a split second? and would this be ok turning off and back on maybe more than once?

last question above

thank you Blueoval,that is all the stuff i have been waiting to hear! my carb is allready fat,just upgraded flywheel,clutch,trans,rear.engine is a good 450+HP maybe a little more,never dynoed.im using 4 speed and wot switch,what did you mean interrupt switch for the clutch? my son is wiring it up for me.he has rolls of quality wire he ordered.not bragging because he is my son,just stating a fact,he is one hell of a electrician. and he is a perfectionist.im an older man and i will be mostly playing with it on the streets.i was thinking about throwing my  bigger jets away.i wont be using them.my limit for this engine is 100.its well built at the machine shop of a ford guy in his late 60s.who has raced fords for over 40 years.it might hold a 250 shot many times but im not looking to come anywhere near maxing out. can you explain what the controller does too.i understand the risks involved.i could throw a big solid cam in it and head work and i could lose an engine,many ways to blow one up.i have never been a finger pointer.if things happen to me its bad luck or my fault.i would never talk bad about any power adder.i have been a race fan since i was 5 or 6 when i went to the track and watched my dad and uncle race.i got my first fe when i was 12.a 390 out of a 63 gal moonshine car.it had a nice 2 4bbl intake on it.i put it in my comet for a few years.it outran all my buddies in school.

that last reply makes me feel a lot better.i will just be using it for a few seconds with some good forged alu pistons and you used it for minutes with cast pistons.i may turn my rev limiter off and just keep my eye on the rpms to help avoid backfire.thanks for all the replies.i feel a lot better informed now and some of you have my confidence built up.