We're blessed to have a lot of musicians here in WV keeping the traditional music alive.  Lot of festivals with folks from
all walks of life playing mountain music.  There are always jams going on and if you want you can join right in and play along.
Not a nicer bunch of people anywhere.
I really enjoy seeing all the young kids playing and they'll surprise you how good they are.
Get your kids and grandkids into this music.  It's awesome.

garyv

The bell housing has a casting number of C4AP-7976-A which from what is the early 64 5 bolt bell, 160 tooth flexplate, 2 bolt starter
221,260 and 289's.  I found this info in an article in Mustang 360 I had saved and it lists all the C4 bellhousings and casting numbers. This is a late 70's transmission so someone has swapped the transmission for the car.
Jay at Broader transmission has one on his site listed for sale for $450 so they must be rare.

garyv

Have a C4 that I'd like to overhaul to use maybe behind a 351 C or 302.  Not going to be a race application just something stout
that will hold up to 400 plus hp/tq that I can hammer on if I want.  From what I can determine this one looks like it was made in 1978. Has the 26/24 spline shaft and push in modulator valve. Band adjustment bolt is coarse thread so I'm sure it's not a C5 and it's a case fill.  Has a bell that doesn't match up to anything in my garage such as 302, Cleveland, 351M. Looks like it was made for a lock up torque converter because its pretty big. I can get a different bell so that's not an issue
 
There are a lot of kits out there and I see some for around $200 with all the Alto red plates and Kolene coated steels etc.  Is this the type
of kit I need?  Transparts warehouse has a kit which is similar to the global trans kit and cheaper.
I have never rebuilt an automatic so this will be a first.  Done plenty of standards without any issues.
Haven't torn it down yet just trying to get an ideal of what you guys use when you build these.

Appreciate some input.

garyv

I had Brent build a 347 for my 76 Bronco. Didn't want anything wild just a nice runner with broad torque curve. Used a 1980 block, scat stroker kit, hydraulic roller cam, factory roller lifters, Dart Pro1 heads, air gap intake and a 600 holley. It made a little over 400hp and could have made more with a bigger carb and more cam. 
Not hard to do with the right combination of parts.

Good luck on your build.

garyv

Brent do you have the flow numbers for those LR heads you had ported a while back?  I'd like to see how they compare
to these heads with some before and after numbers. My guess is unported LR's are on par with the CJ heads. 

garyv

plovett,

 It actually made 605hp588tq.  600hp @ 6400 rpms and 605@6900 rpms  Peak tq @4700 rpms.

If this won't work give Brent a call and he can spec you something out.

I have another SR cam but it's a tad more radical 
garyv

I don't know what you are building but here's my 2 cents for what it's worth. I've seen some
 Dove stuff.  Some of it is good and some not so good.  Like Ken said Dove mixed and matched
stuff so you have to know what you are getting. Sounds like these may have the modified exhaust ports and could require special headers. Unless they are dirt cheap I'd pass on them.  Remember they will still need work to make them usable and that costs $$$.
Considering all the unknowns I think you would be way ahead to have one of the builders prep you a set of Trick Flow heads. They will support a lot of HP and you will know for sure what you have.

Good luck
garyv

 Number 3 gets my vote.
 Nothing cooler than old iron cranking out big HP
 Listen to Brent he won't steer you wrong.

garyv