Many of the original Autolite and FoMoCo PCV valves from the 60's could be disassembled. Some had a body composed of two machined pieces that screw together, and some use a snap ring. On those PCV valves, you can take them apart and tune them with washers to change the orifice size and also by stacking washers to change the spring rate. I can't say I've ever gone so far as to measure crankcase vacuum, but I have tuned them to fine tune idle speed and throttle tip in response. You can find them in junkyards, at swap meets, and on that auction site from time to time. Sometimes they're still installed in used valve covers too.

Regarding the excessive idle speed and the need to set the throttle plates so low relative to the transfer slots, sounds like you figured out that the drilled throttle plates were the culprit. I had a used carb once that I rebuilt and couldn't get to idle down. Once I realized it wasn't originally manufactured with the drilled butterflies and swapped in some that weren't drilled, it idled just fine. That backyard attempt at tuning with a Milwaukee was probably why the carb was sold to me in the first place. (For what it's worth, I've had other carbs that were supposed to have drilled throttle plates that worked just fine with them.)


Brett

SOLD

I posted on the other forum as well, I hope this isn't considered spam.

I recently picked up some parts, including 2 pairs of FE headers. One set is a pair of lightly used old style Hooker 6113's (they have the part number stamped in the flange, but don't look like the pictures I'm finding on the web, as they have 1 7/8 inch primaries and the tubes for 5 and 6 do not go under the crossmember, and only the tube for 7 is a slip fit), and the other pair are unknown, unused race headers.

 The unknowns have 1 7/8 inch primary tubes, and the tubes for 1, 2, 5, and 6 are slip fits that go under the crossmember but each side has a conjoined flange. The tubes for 3, 4, 7, and 8 are welded to the collectors, and have sweeping bends similar to the Hooker 6375's, I assume an attempt to make the lengths closer to equal?

 The flanges on the mystery headers at the head are odd, in that they appear to be adaptable to either CJ heads with a higher port outlet, or GT heads with a lower port outlet. The flange at 1, 4, 5, and 8 has a top hole drilled closer to the top of the tube, and a shorter overall height (think CJ). The flanges at 2, 3, 6, and 7 have a taller flange, with the top hole drilled farther away (think GT). I am thinking this is so that the headers can be fitted, then the non-matching pattern slotted to work? Another oddity is that they have only the offset bolt holes for coil tower type heads, and none of them are slotted. There is not a lower row of bolt holes. So there are only 12 bolt bosses for the heads on each side. The Mr Gasket 254G gasket has an almost identical pattern.

 I know these are old, as they have a 3.5 inch collector with a square 4 bolt flange. The collector necks down to a 3 inch diameter just before the flange. This is a similar design to the Hooker truck headers for FE's (the neck down that is), but with a factory welded flange and a larger diameter. Another cool thing is these have the impossible to find 4 bolt reducers, and unused gaskets!

 Any help in identifying these would be appreciated. I am starting to think they might be Appliance or Blackjack headers based on the square collector flange? Anyone have any experience with these?

I tried to post pictures, but the pictures I took are too big to post.

 I feel I should add, at the risk of offending some (apologies in advance), that I will likely be selling these oddities from yesteryear once I have positive id on them.

Thanks in advance, Brett

When I jacked it up and turned the drivers side wheel, the passengers side wheel started to turn in the opposite direction for about 1/4 of a turn - then it stopped. The drive shaft was turning. Then I turned the passengers side and the drivers side did nothing. Went back to the drivers side and turned it and the passengers side did nothing. Each time the drive shaft was always turning.
I'll call the guy who sold me it and see what he says. Might be today, but most likely this evening.

thx, Dave J

Sounds like an open differential based on the description above. Given how it's working for you, meaning two equal patches of rubber, I'd be reluctant to swap it out

Actually, the did record some variations. Different style hydraulic lifters performed differently under different conditions. They varied from pretty much bottomed out all the way up to loose (lash) with a standard hydraulic. Best pull they recorded was zero lash, zero preload. With the anti-pump ups, they found best power with just a little lash. They also ran the fast bleed down lifters, which improved idle quality.

Again, likely a very engine/combo specific test, but an interesting read nonetheless.

Brett

Not having the issue, did they find any differences with varying preloads? I'd guess not.

Quote from: frankenfords on May 16, 2014, 05:35:06 PM

There is a an interesting article in the summer 2014 edition of the Engine Masters magazine (quarterly spin off of Popular Hot Rodding). I picked mine up last week at the grocery store.

They did dyno testing on a 383 Mopar running different lifters with different preloads, on the same cam. Obviously the 383 Mopar isn't exactly like an FE, but it does use a shaft rocker system. There are too many variables to list that make the testing that was done specific to that exact engine combination, but still a thought provoking read.

Personally for a hydraulic cam, I have always gone 0 lash plus a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the adjuster.

Brett

Very cool to see some 'traditional' builds, thanks for sharing Brent.

The truck 352 was rated at 208 horsepower from 65-67, and was the top dog in truck line up. I'd bet somewhere just south of 200hp.

Curious to know what heads that engine has? Interestingly, of the 352's I've seen, in 66 Ford kept the earlier 'low riser' style intake port for both car and truck applications, while the 390's all got the new head design with short intake ports. Head casting numbers I have seen have been C6AE-R and C6TE-_, whether car or truck. In 67, truck 352's had the small port heads just like the car 390's.

That 352 might have a 2BBL intake with low riser sized ports as well, and that carb might be a big venturi version. A;; trival information, I suppose, but still curious to see what numbers that old work horse puts out.

I've always been sort of partial to the more sculpted hood bulges, like the one that used to be called the 'Tunnel Ram I' model. They were in the JCWhitney catalog forever, and Speedway used to sell one too, but now it looks like they are out of stock. I have a picture of an early pro-stock Maverick I pirated off the web somewhere, might be Dyno Don's car?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-Fiberglass-Tunnel-Ram-I-Hood-Scoop,44669.html

Like Jay suggested, the Maverick grabber scoops look pretty bitchin too. If you need more room, maybe it could be cut and raised to be more like a cowl induction setup?  Found a couple of example pictures on the web.

Whatever you do, it will likely be a vast improvement over that mail slot snorkle on there now!