I'm with Rory on this one. However you are kinda married to this setup so here's my advice. When setting the bearing height, leave as much gap as your instructions will allow.
This is the measurement between the clutch plate fingers and the bearing. As the clutch wears in the fingers get closer to the bearing. When this gap is zero you burn up the
clutch. FWIW, Tilton is the only brand I would trust. Hope this helps, Steve

I had a vibration/drone in my 428CJ for years. I had the stock pistons replaced with forged TRW's on the rebuild. The machine shop that did the work said I didn't need it balanced although I wanted it done. The machinist was an old bastard set in his ways and no one knew anything but him. Well the engine shook but I never drove it much and it used oil from day one. It finally shook the
damper loose and just about screwed up the key way. Took one of my spare CJ blocks up to Barry and had him put in a new Scat stroker rotating assembly. That was the best money ever spent
on that car. Smooth as silk and never used oil, ever. The number matching motor is now on a stand out of harms way. The stroker is just a joy to drive. The moral of this story is always have
them balanced. That's one thing you can rule out when chasing problems. Good machinists/ engine builders like we have on this forum are a huge advantage. Steve

I need to find a replacement plug that closely matches the BF32 Autolite. I have narrowed it down to three choices. The NGK
AP6FS, NGK AP7FS or the Autolite AR33. The engine is a 428CJ block, 4.125 Scat crank and flat top Diamond pistons. Induction
is a BT 428CJ intake, Quick Fuel 780VS and Lunati .509 @260 solid cam and stock CJ heads. Thanks in advance, Steve

Rear disc brake conversions are sometimes very tough to bleed. Especially the ones with the parking brake incorporated into the caliper. The bleeder screw my not be positioned at the
high point. You may have to remove the caliper and tilt it. These kits are typically a mismatch of factory parts. Hope this helps, Steve