I just measured the master cylinder bore. It is 1 1/32"  now how do I find a master cylinder that has a smaller more with the bolt pattern I need? It there a guide out there for master cylinders?

If the master cylinder change works, can you please post up and let us know. I bought the same setup for my '62 but have not installed yet.

Similarly, I liked that it was common parts in case something needs to be replaced eventually.

I'll definitely post what I come up with.  It sucks searching for an answer and finding the same problem but no solution.

You should do an Ohm test on a few wires. It could be as noted poor grounding but an Ohm test will tell if it's the wires.

I'd also inspect/clean/replace the engine-to-firewall ground strap as often folks take them off or fail to reconnect it after say painting the compartment.

What kid of ohm's am I looking for on a wire? Is there a range?

I'm not sure what plugs or wires are in it. Same stuff that came with the car.  What does everyone run on these motors? And I'm guessing this could be the cause of why it seems to be miss firing.  Motor seems to run rough.

I bought my car with the swap already done.  The pedal effort seems pretty excessive for the amount of brake I get.  What master cylinder is recommended to run with the scarebird setup or what are you guys running with them?  The brake booster hoods vacuum so I'm guessing that's not the problem.  I have to replace rear axle seals also along with new shoes.  They are oil soaked now.

I tested for vacuum leaks by torquing the intake down and putting duct tape over the carb opening with the carb gasket and lifting plate bolted down.  I pumped it down to 10" of vacuum.  And it took 1 minute 32 seconds to come down to 9" of vacuum. I cant imagine it getting much better than this.

Check the bottom of the ports on the intake manifold to see if they are sitting on the head gasket, or block.  Some of the Edelbrock intake manifolds had too much material cast into the ports lower edge, and must be cut off so the intake will sit down properly.  Also, you need to make sure the oil drain back area at the front of the manifold is actually cast into the manifold, so you will not have a oil drain back problem.  As for the manifold actual flow, it is not as good as the stock -H, -F, or -J aluminum Ford intakes.  A couple of the ports only flow around 220 cfm as cast.  Joe-JDC

It ended up being the head gasket in the way.  I've never had that  problem before.  Now I know to check that before putting sealant down on the gaskets.  The intake is sitting on the heads nice and even now.