I'm a little confused as to what bearing clearances are appropriate for an FE. I hear some people going as wide as .003, but after looking in the Ford shop manual, I'm reading numbers between .0008-.0026 to be allowable, and .0010-.0020 ideal for the rods and mains. I *believe* the machine shop had everything between .0015-.0020 which would be considered ideal per the shop manual.

However, many people are telling me that this is waaaay too tight? I'm running a precision oil pumps high volume pump with 10w30 oil, hot idle oil pressure @ 800 RPM is around 20 psi, cruising @ 2700 RPM gets me around 64 psi. I've got around 80-90 miles on the motor so far and it seems to be running great.

http://www.mustangtek.com/Library6/PDF/Vol-68-S1-L2_p1.pdf

I'm on the second rebuild of my 428, the first build lasted about 200 miles before a rod bearing self destructed. During that span, the motor ran great with temps ranging from 185-195.

It's now overheating at idle after being rebuilt a second time and I'm losing my mind trying to figure out the cause. The moment I bring the RPM up, the tempture shoots down, cruising its stone cold. I'm using a mechanical water temp gauge. EVERYTHING is the same as it was on the prior build, same timing, carb tuning, clutch fan, water pump etc. I'm running a Derale clutch fan with a factory shroud and ACP 3 row aluminum radiator.

The second rebuild consisted of new bearings, rings, hone, and crank regrind (and new gaskets of course). The machine shop built the short block, I assembled the rest. I purchased the exact same gaskets as before. I never pulled the thermostat, it's the same one that was in the motor before the second rebuild.

The head gaskets are not backwards and I did a block test to verify that there aren't combustion gases getting into the cooling system.

With the cap off, I can see coolant flowing when the thermostat opens. I've tried moving the initial timing anywhere from 8-22 degrees with no change, I left it where it ran best around 14. I even removed the PCV just to see if it was sucking in too much air and making it run lean at idle, again no change.

The only change is from a standard volume up to a high volume pump and the addition of oil restrictors in the cylinder head for the rocker arms (I'm using a massive Canton oil pan).


What gives? At idle it creeps up past 215+, but when the RPM's increase or I begin cruising it's 175-180.

Heo, absolutely no offense taken. They would get deleted pretty quickly though, and I don't want to get banned..lol

happystang, that's a pretty cool start, especially at your age. Not many young guys can afford to even get into the vintage muscle car field, but that's a good one!

I've definitely learned that FE stands for Friggen Expensive LOL. I started dabbling with small blocks before I could even drive, that basically turned into work experience which is how I funded the '68.

Happystang, I like your car, the stans and the somewhat worn outside
(Dont like the word patina) and the way the wheels fill the wheelhouse
give it that all Go and no Show look. Try to remove the hubcaps and
se what you think about that. It give a more racey look in my opinion
67-68 FB is in my opinion the best looking mustang....Ohhh to be 24
again with a FE Mustang . Was 24 when i bought the Fairlane

Thank you! It's affectionately been referred to as the Beater Bullitt (or the Banana Bullitt) by many. I'm in the process of making it more of a daily driver while I finish my last semester of college. Needless to say, it's been a great experience so far .

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. It sounds like I'll be ordering the restrictors for my Edelbrock heads along with a Melling M-57hv pump. I'm planning on getting this unit from Precision Oil Pumps:

http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/blueprinted-melling-ford-fe-high-volume-1-4-pump/

Comments? Suggestions?

Welp, bad news. Sounds like there's some rod knock.

Not sure how this could have happened, I think I did everything by the book on my end, there's maybe 200 miles on the motor, used a Motorcraft or Wix filter for oil changes.

Primed the oil system before the first start up
Used the recommended oil and a bottle of ZDDP for start up (Valvoline 10w30) *it's a roller cam*
Changed the oil/filter after 100 miles to Valvoline 10w40
Coolant temps NEVER went past 185*

Oil pump inlet in block enlarged
Canton 8 qt capacity oil pan w/windage tray and matching pickup
Standard volume/pressure oil pump
Beefy oil pump driveshaft
Edelbrock heads
CJ oil filter adapter
New Harland Sharp rockers/shafts
Clevite bearings

The knocking started this morning when driving home on the freeway from a cars and coffee event, the hot idle oil pressure was down to 14 PSI. Going to call the machine shop on Monday and see what they say, they assembled the rotating assembly and did all the measuring for clearances. I'm going to drain the oil later today and see what it looks like, as of now I don't really want to look at it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40LtnjhDD3g

Hi everyone,

I'm slowly getting ready to fire up the 428 for the first time! It's got a Lunati hydraulic roller cam/lifters and Harland Sharp roller rockers. I used Royal Purple assembly lube on the pushrods, rocker arms, and cam/lifters. I know that roller cams don't really have a break in, but just for some peace of mind.

I was planning on using Rotella 15-40 for break in, is this acceptable for a new motor? I use it on my roller 306 in my '69, I figure it would be fine for this as well.

From what I've read, I should change the oil and filter after about 45 minutes of run time, is this correct?

IMG_8301.JPG by armon7, on Flickr

I prefer the later style fulcrum & fork that use a flat spring that fits thru a square hole  in the fulcrum. Much less hassle to Re&re the fork. I have bought new late style fulcrums from Mustang venders, and a heavier duty version from  McLeod.

I actually ordered an NOS fulcrum on eBay last night, courtesy of Tony Branda.

Thank you for the suggestion!