U.S. Radiator for any older brass and copper replacement.  I have used them with great success in my '51 F-1, '62 Monterey, and a few other cars I have built for other people ('47 Ford, '32 Plymouth, etc).  Radiators are too important to use cheap E-bay crap and I think an aluminum unit looks completely wrong in any older car.

Put a thermocouple or temp gun on your favorite air cooled lawn mower / tiller / snow blower engine the next time you are working it at full tilt.  You would be surprised how hot those Briggs / Kohlers / Techumsha's run.  The NASCAR deal is not much different.  Lots of advantages to running that hot, with very little downside. 

Thanks for the compliments guys.  But it is really nothing more than a '62 Galaxie with different trim, taillights, and a few other Mercury specific items.  This era of Fullsize Mercury's really started the badge engineering concept.

The 352 does generate over 300 ft-lbs of torque from 2500 rpms and up (it's all done at 5200), so it doesn't have a problem getting the big barge moving, and with the AOD it happily cruises at 75 all day long. 

1985 F-350. 6.9 IDI, 4 speed + 2 spd Range Splitter.  Gets 14-15 mpg empty and 12 mpg with my '24 enclosed (10,000 lb capacity) hanging off the bumper. 

We used my buddy's '14 F-150 (5.0) and my trailer to go get a '59 Merc M-100 Panel Truck out of Winnipeg two summers ago (I hadn't purchased the '85 yet, and my '76 F-250 had the tranny out of it.)  The F-150 had plenty of power , but that enclosed would walk the F-150 all over the place with a cross wind (I-29 across eastern No-Dak), even with the load leveler.  The trailer doesn't do that to the F-350.  I can load my '62 Merc Monterey wagon (Think 5000+ lbs of car) into the trailer, and pull it comfortably any where I want.  The 6.9 is a bit down on power compared to modern diesels, but the range splitter helps that alot, and it will soon get a Banks turbo kit as well.  Being all mechanical, no DEF, no emissions equipment, and stupid reliable makes up for some of it's other shortcomings.

The short answer is YES.

The long answer digs into the weeds on how the transmission functions.  These transmissions combine a 3 element torque convertor and a hydraulically controlled 3 speed and reverse planetary gearset. Dual Range transmissions are equipped with a one-way clutch incorporated into the planet gear pinion carrier.  When in the D1 position, the engine torque is delivered to the front clutch.  The torque reaction of the one-way clutch causes it to lock up and hold the drum stationary, thus creating low or 1st gear.  At the 1-2 upshift, the front servo is engaged, and as soon as the front band picks up the reaction torque, the one-way clutch will start to free wheel and the transmission will be in 2nd gear.

Your six positions should be (P)ark - (R)everse - (N)uetral - D1 - D2 - L

D2 starts in 2nd gear, and D1 starts in first.  Both end up in 3rd - High range.

This thread does a good job of explaining the MEL bolt pattern changes throughout its run, including the dual pattern 460's that were used in 68-70. 

http://ford-mel-engine.com/viewtopic.php?t=445

With the CJ cam, a proper tune, and 9.5:1 or under, you should be able to run bar pour 87 all day with out any issue.  My 352 with aluminum Edel heads, and 9:5:1 was tuned and dynoed on 87, with no sign of detonation.

If my memory is worth a shit, the CJ cam has rather late intake timing, driving the need for more compression.