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Messages - frnkeore

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1111
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lets talk rod to stroke ratio's...
« on: November 01, 2019, 03:05:35 PM »
Joe, do you have the data from those dyno tests? I'd love to see how it changes things.

1112
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lets talk rod to stroke ratio's...
« on: November 01, 2019, 01:20:29 PM »
I like and respect Smokey, a lot (may he RIP), he even worked with Fords a little :) and was a true innovator but, he did say, in one of his books, that he thought that the reason you could get more HP from a higher rod/stroke ratio, was because there was a longer dwell time, at TDC, building more pressure, for the down stroke.

Personally, I think, if there is more HP for the longer rod, it's because of less pressure on the piston to cylinder wall contact and less friction.

I know the rod length to stroke ratio has been around since, at least the '20's (probably before the turn of the 19th century) but, I look at it as a maximum angle.

A 317 Linc (3.5/7.062) has a 2.018/1 ratio, the angle is 14.35 degree, Jays 4.75/ 6.625 combo 1.395/1 and that angle is 21 deg.

What I look at for longevity is what NASCAR runs and that's  16.5 - 17 deg (9,300 rpm/500 mi) and for what will reliably work, I look a sprint cars 19.5 deg. and try to keep in those areas, striving for the lower angle and longer rod. Also, you can't deny that the sprint cars basic 1.015 C/H works on bores over 4".

Because what we talk about, is very subjective and opinion based mostly, I would like to see some dyno tests based on those perimeters, the FE would be a good test bed for it but, that old 317/368 Y block Lincoln with it's 10.94 deck height could yield  more info but, at a much higher price.

1113
FE Technical Forum / Re: aluminum intake advantage
« on: October 26, 2019, 12:43:37 AM »
One other thing about FE manifolds (cast iron or alum). When I was a mechanic ('62-'70) the way I would do them, by myself, was pull the hood and stand between the wheel wells. You can maneuver even the cast irons (about all there was in my day) very well that way and stick the by pass hose, w/o a problem. It was much easier than having a second guy help.

It only takes about 5 min to remove the hood or replace it.

1114
FE Technical Forum / Re: aluminum intake advantage
« on: October 26, 2019, 12:36:32 AM »
All Ford aluminum manifolds are performance orientated, by that, I think they would flow a little better. 

After market manifolds are tuned for performance and depending on there design, should increase HP, in the range they where designed to work. That said, not all after market manifolds are designed properly. Do your home work first.

Usually Edelbrock  does there home work, before releasing theirs. A good example is the Victor line for single plane.

1115
FE Technical Forum / Re: The next guess the horsepower game.....
« on: October 24, 2019, 04:21:24 PM »
468 @ 5500

1116
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Anyone Heavy Used An 8N 6 Cylinder Tractor.
« on: October 24, 2019, 01:46:09 PM »
I have six Ford '55-'59, both 600 & 800 series tractors, I would like to convert one of them to a 302. Does anyone know of a conversion kit or just a transmission adapter?

1117
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Welder question
« on: October 22, 2019, 11:36:54 AM »
I don't know when the standard might have changed but, the more modern equipment, is made to operate at a 10% voltage, variance.

Regarding Knob & Tube, it is scarey stuff. I'm originally form The City of Orange, in Orange Co. It was founded, about 1880 and had LOTS of K & T wiring. In the '60's and '70's, there would be around one house burn down per year, because of that wiring, mostly broken wires, in the wall.

For those that don't know what it is, they used to run bare wire, threw the attic and the wall. The knobs where 2 piece insulators, nailed together, with the wire, between them, they then ran to the wall and down threw a ceramic tube to the outlet.

1118
FE Technical Forum / Re: Piston speed
« on: October 21, 2019, 02:16:54 PM »
I have saved factory Ford stuff for over 56 years and I have part numbers for four 427 rods between '63 and '68. All with 13/32 bolts by the torque specs.

1. C3AZ-6200-C, Presumably the initial LR 4v & 8V

2. C3AZ-6200-F, listed as a Reinforced Cap, 4V & 8V

3. C5AZ-6200-D, a class "C" part, meaning it came out of the National Parts Depot in Livonia, MI.

4. C5AZ-6200-J, same class and rod but, a heavier cap.

I don't have any specs for the 302 TP rods but, I do for the Boss 302. They used the basic 289 rod length of 5.150, with a part number of C9ZZ-6200-B, with 3/8 bolts, 2 7/64 long.

Around 1970, I was at H&M's shop in Long Beach and saw a whole box full of 4 cam, Indy rods ($10 ea), they where 5.315 long, as I remember, so if you were to use those, you would have to have a piston with a C/H of 1.375, with .016 deck clearance.

Before the TP and Boss, the 271 HP rods, where running at least 7500 RPM, in TransAm racing. Hell, I shifted mine at 7000+ many, many times. I had 3 of them, all early 5 bolt blocks.

1119
FE Technical Forum / Re: Piston speed
« on: October 21, 2019, 11:31:46 AM »
The real proof would be in the failure rate.

Ford did the same thing with the 271 HP 289 but, went a a full 1/16" increase in rod bolt size.

The weak point, will be in the counter bore area, on the rod cap. Measure the thickness, from the c'bore, to the parting line and see if there is a radius at the edge of the c'bore.

1120
No one has mentioned this but, the real key, as to whether you can overhaul your engine, is how much taper it has at the top of the ring travel and before you can decide on that, you'll have to measure the cylinders at that point.

For me, .005, is to much. Your ring gap opens about .015 for .005 taper. I wouldn't want more than .030 gap, on a overhaul.

1121
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Welder question
« on: October 18, 2019, 01:29:57 AM »
Ever here of 208? :)

1122
FE Technical Forum / Re: Scat crankshaft straightness
« on: October 16, 2019, 04:31:48 PM »
The mains are machined and ground, between centers. Meaning the crank is supported on both ends, only. They are done that way to keep everything on one plane.

If your crank will sags, you need to get rid of it, as it's not very strong and won't survive.

W/o a lathe available, supporting it on #1 and #5 with 2,3& 4 bearing shells removed, would be acceptable and akin to supporting it in V blocks.

1123
FE Technical Forum / Re: Scat crankshaft straightness
« on: October 15, 2019, 07:45:09 PM »
Yes, it is .0005 off center.

1124
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Roadracing Thunderbolt
« on: October 11, 2019, 07:50:34 PM »
It's amazing how hard it was for a 427, to catch and pass a 91 CI engine.

I had a '67 Cortina, I had 6" & 8" magnesium wheels on it but, it got T boned, out side my place, before I could put one of my spare Atlantic engines in it. The '67's didn't come with twin cams but, had the same base 1500cc engine.

I really miss that car.

1125
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Welder question
« on: October 11, 2019, 12:29:45 PM »
Heo,
Are you saying that a single wire has 220v? In the US, you have to connect to 2 wires, to get above 120v.

I ask this, because you say that the "0" wire is the same as our "common" wire. Our "common" is always a white wire.

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