I have a hell of a vibration accelerating or decelerating with my F100, worst when I accelerate at freeway speeds or decelerate using the engine

Now, everything is new and tight.  However, the combination of some of the old parts has me thinking it's a pinion angle issue.

- Crank centerline is 4 degrees down (output shaft coming out of the transfer case)
- Pinion is about 5 degrees up (almost parallel to the output, but slightly steeper)
- Driveshaft angle, is 12 degrees, one piece driveshaft relatively new yoke and spline, u-joints

Now, the springs are rebushed, truck sits fine, springs aren't junk, but I wouldn't say they are a strong point of the truck.  It's an old lift kit but they do not have any spring straps or clamps holding them together front or back and my hunch is that they wrap up like a SOB when hammered hard.  They are 2.25 inch springs, 24 inches in front of the center bolt, 28 behind and a stock lift block, 3 inches maybe under it?

Understanding that my pinion angle should be 2-3 degrees less steep than my output to allow it to move to parallel, and it is the opposite way, do you think at highway acceleration that either: the 1 degree from the static measurement would cause the vibration (it's pretty severe)  or with no spring claps or straps the springs could be wrapping up enough to make it worse?

As I am typing this, I think I have my own answer, I think it pinion is likely wrapping up during even light acceleration, question is, would it do the same during decel?

P/N 538 8009 - New in the blister packaging, been sitting in the shop for a bit.  I was going to use it on my Mustang with the Supershifter / 4 speed, but not enough bend for the Tremec in the center of the hump and further forward.

50 bucks plus shipping, more info in the links below, pretty much 80-90 dollars everywhere.  FYI the Ebay link shows the bend pretty well along with the offset

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-5388009-Chrome-Steel-replacement-10-1-2-shifter-stick-bolt-on-/301797025177?hash=item4644812599:g:THsAAOSwuAVWu0gf&vxp=mtr

http://hurst.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/30072/538-8009

https://www.amazon.com/Hurst-5388009-Shifter-Stick/dp/B00062Z51G

- Engine spins 5500-ish max
- 445 FE with SFT, 290lbs open at .588 lift
- Cam is 282/236 SFT Bullet grind
- New Harland Sharp bushed rockers

Which would you use? A set of HD shafts and no stands or end stands with new Sealed Power stock shafts?  Price is right around 200 bucks either way

Leaning toward no end stands, just because the tins are nice long finger and I don't want to bend them up, but I also have no qualms running without them

Anyone got a stock set?

As a minimum, I could get away with a loaner set to diagnose an issue, however, I'd be happy to buy a set too, and would likely prefer to buy, especially if it's a set that needs a little work

I'll buy 16 rockers only, rockers with marginal adjusters, a complete setup with shafts and stands, you name it.

If I buy, intent is to replace with Crane rockers and put new shafts, unless the shafts are very nice.

Let me know on price plus shipping to 68133 and if you can take Paypal I can make it happen pretty darn quickly

Anyone have something new on the shelf they want to dump?  Looking for something with a 268 to 274 adv intake lobe or anything in between.  This is for a budget short block with no home as of yet.  Wide range of "good enough"   

Not really concerned with LSA, ICL, .050, just looking for new and cheap

My F100 has always been a hopping SOB, it'll wrap up the stock springs like nothing you've ever seen.  I do not have any sort of bar, and do plan to make something up but question for you before I got that route

The crank centerline angle/output shaft is 5.5 degrees down, all factory mounts, all new and in good shape

The pinion angle, no weight on the truck other than itself is 5.5 degrees up

So initially life looks good although pretty steep, but doesn't that mean any wrap at all is causing it to overcenter and unload as the pinion angle becomes less than parallel to the crank?  I think I need the pinion a bit lower, or the engine a couple degrees higher.  Thoughts?

My buddies 580-ish hp iron head solid roller 440 inch Rat, 5.13 gears, Super T10.

Lost a bolt in the RH upper control arm, said he did a nut and bolt check, musta missed one   When the rear torqued it pulled a shock apart and one spring jumped off it's seat. 

Sounds odd to say this, but licky the fenders kept the rear under the car.

Make it as big as you can see it, and watch the rear go way up and down.  FYI, this car squats hard normally during a launch and normally 60s in the 1.52-1.55 range, this run was a 1.75 and then he got out of it.

http://vid528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/My427stang/IMG_0539_zpst1xztll6.mp4

I have a weird one here, wondering if anyone has any experience.

I have a set of Richmond gears I am trying to set up for my Mustang, they are lightened and REM polished and don't have a pinion depth on the end.  However, the instructions said to start with a .020 pinion shim if you didn't have a number or the ability to check

I am using a Mark Williams Daytona bearing retainer and a Moser N-case along with a Truetrac 31 spline diff.

The REM polishing makes it very tough to see the pattern, nothing wants to stick to it enough to show how it meshes, so I initially used the recommended .020 shim, set backlash and tried it.  Its was ridiculously noisy at steady cruise, a loud whine/ringing.

So, most of my 9 inch setups end up with a pinion depth around 1.030 - 1.031, so I checked this one and it was extremely deep at 1.010.  However, I have never seen a 9 inch take .045-.050 of shim pinion and Richmond's advice seems to support that 

My thought is that maybe the combination of parts makes the Richmond recommendation no good?  Additionally I am wondering if the REM polishing could be causing the gear to shed oil making noise.

What do you guys think?  Have you ever set up a 9 inch that needed that much pinion shim?  Do you think starting at 1.031 is a smart estimate?  I am halfway considering ordering a set of motives and be done with it, but these are very expensive and very nice (looking anyway LOL)