Going a different direction with my project truck, selling the parts I've accumulated thus far.  Prices are plus shipping.  Pictures available via email on request. 

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (black): $425
Edelbrock Streetmaster 390 intake: $200

Other stuff:

Factory adj rockers, multiple sets of shafts $200
Aluminum rocker shaft stands with endstands $60
fabricated valve covers $100
Summit RTR distributer (cast gear) $75
Performance distributer (Bronze gear) $100
Cloyes timing chain $40
timing covers, water pump, flywheel/pp, pulleys, factory oil pans, cast bellhousing, ARP head and main bolts, pushrods, etc. -ask

Local Bay Area guys:

Two 390 truck blocks $200ea (one 4.050, the other 4.080)
4.080 cast pistons/'Lemans' rods with ARP bolts/0.20 390 crank $350
Iron heads C8AE-H and D2TE $150/set
Hedman truck headers, exhaust $150

I run an early Pro-M on my Mustang with some significant modification and a Pro-flo on my truck.  Both do great, the Pro-flo is more  fancy gadget than performance oriented and didn't fit well.

That being said, every one I do for a customer is a Sniper now or Terminator X if port injection.  2 last year, a 511 FE and a 347 SBF on the stands now.  Holley has great support, nice website for getting help, easy and intuitive handheld or laptop connection, and gives you a lot of alternatives when growing into it.

I like the Sniper Stealth for a TBI for looks, recommend you get a matching distributor, Hyperspark or DUal Sync, and if you want port injection, build it in pieces and drive it with a Terminator X box.

Happy to offer more detail

Nothing to say about FAST, FiTech but they don't seem to have the following of the Snipers

Holley has the Sniper kits on sale right now, the master kit includes a paired fuel system to go with it...   

Terminator kits are on sale as well, but they seem to offer a great deal more control than the dinosaur FE really needs.  However the ecu is not integrated into the throttle body assembly.  I wonder if that would make the added expense worthwhile?

Question about purchasing complete internally balanced rotating assemblies.  Are the matching components stamped or otherwise marked?  Do the wrist pin/rod/pistons come assembled?  Wondering how the end user knows which components go where. 

When it comes to machine the block are the following what you'd ask the machine shop to perform:

Clean block
sonic check/magnaflux
Bore/hone cylinders (with torque plate?)
Square deck block
align hone main bearing caps
Cam bearing install

I have two candidate blocks, one is 4.050" bore the other is 4.080".  Is there a reason to use the 4.080" block?  Is it better to perform oiling system modifications prior to the machine shop work?

Did you mean cam on the big side for the factory headed engine?

None of the dimensions, that I high lighted in bold, are FE dimensions. Valves should be ~2.03 x 1.56, with ~.371 to .372 stems

I think we need pictures of your heads and rocker arm assemblys. The RA shaft grooves go to the bottom or the rockers can't get full oil.

You should be able to blow the restricter out with air, from the bottom of the head.

I miss typed the exhaust valve size; it is 1.56"
I measured the intake valve a number of times, it is 2.058".  The stock valve is certainly 2.03", the other set of heads I received have the 2.03's in them.   I don't know why or where these 2.05's came from. 

I've already removed and disassembled the rocker arms/shafts unfortunately.

 

I discovered that the pin in one of the roller lifters had worked it's way loose and the wheel is chewed up.  The corresponding lobe on the cam has a pretty good ridge in it.  One of the burned pushrods corresponds to that lifter, not sure if they're related.     

I'm not used to looking at cylinder heads.  They're C8-AEH castings.  They were advertised as being worked over and have hardened seats, bowl work, with matched cc chambers.  I can see that they have double springs (or helper springs?), one piece retainers, viton valve seals.  The bowls appear to have work done, there's casting flash in the intake runners.  The valves are  ~2.058" intake and 1.056"ex., 0.368" diameter. 

Is there a good resource for FE heads with pictures and so forth to review in order to better evaluate what I'm looking at?             

Interesting.  How would the lack of pushrod oiling lead to loose rockers?

Rather than starting a dozen threads related to this project I'll just start one and ask questions as I go along.

Picked up a 1970 F250 360 C6 Dana 60/4.10 gear truck last month.  Stock aside from aftermarket wheels.  Goal is to build a fun street truck that can be a shop truck for projects.  Don't envision towing or hauling heavy loads often.  I like the idea of a powerplant that is comparable or better to the new F150's with the 5.0 or ecoboost, while being 800lbs lighter.   

I found a local guy with a pile of 390 stuff from his highboy build that he had converted to a 460.  Got a package deal that included essentially two 390's and a bunch of parts. 

The first 390 is a complete motor that reportedly had two collapsed lifters when he pulled it:

~4.070 bore when measured with calipers
Lemans rods, 10:1 compression, unknown make for pistons
small custom truck hydraulic roller cam 208/213 @ 0.050 112 lobe separation, .520 lift
Howards cams (Morel?) Hydraulic lifters
C8-AEH heads 2.06(?) intake valves, 1.56 exhaust
Edelbrock rpm intake
factory adjustable rockers
performance distributers duraspark with bronze gear
ARP hardware

The other is a virgin 390 short block with 4.050 bore
included was a set of unused/rebuilt D2 heads

Among the other parts:
Summit RTR distributer
Hedman longtubes

I'm considering four different ways to go about the build: 

Rebuild as 390/iron heads CJ valves with different/new custom roller cam
390/custom cam/TFS or other aluminum head
445/iron heads
445/TFS heads

Questions to follow.