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Messages - wideglidejoe

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Update............

I've been busy, but I've managed to do a little work on the engine project.

I purchased forged Speed Pro L2291F30 pistons & rings, they arrived today.  Now I need to switch them onto the rods and back in the block and check with modeling clay to determine valve clearance.  Depending on valve clearance and compression ratio calcs, I may choose to slightly shave the heads a little &/or switch to Cometic head gaskets.

Turns out, it did NOT have Le Mans C6AE-E rods as I had been told.  It has like new looking C6AE-C 390/428 rods.  I was a little concerned about the locating dowels being worn or getting worn & loose on the Le Mans rods, plus they are heavier and slower to rev on a street engine, so I'm OK with this.

The old 390 that I removed had the 406 solid lifter cam and adjustable rockers, along with all the other 406 stuff, so I'm gonna keep the Comp Cams solid lifter roller cam and go with a slightly higher stall speed converter in the C6.  Most of the time the car will have the 3.89 or 3.91 rear gears that are in it now, so it will be fun around town and to/from cruise-ins.  I plan on setting up another 9" center section with either 3.00 or 3.25 gears to swap out if I ever take it on a Power Tour, etc.

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Thanks to all for your replies and info!!  I'm old, but never too old to learn something new from others!

I'll have to check out the Speed Pro pistons quality.  I can also get an opinion and input from the machine shop I use, he builds a lot of engines too.  He even does some engine work for the Oklahoma 405 Street Outlaws, or whatever that show is called.

I need to check out the Le Mans rods, see if they look old or have been reconditioned, etc.  If I change rods to a stock 390 rod, they'll need to be checked out and resized, and new bolts, or just buy new rods.  I read a lot of stuff on other forums about the dowels on the Le Mans rods getting loose, not so much the cap screws.

If I deck this block, or determine that has already been decked, I'll be happy if the new pistons are .010", .013", or .017" below deck at TDC.  I can always make more compression with Cometic gaskets &/or mill the heads a little.  If I have the heads milled, I'll take them down to whatever level we can get away with without having to mill the intake bottom & sides.  If they wind up 73cc or 71cc, etc, that's what it'll be, the rest will be with Cometic gaskets.

frnkeore, yes, I knew the torque on the heads was 110 & 100, thank you!

Rory, I agree with you about the single 4 bbl performance and mileage.  I have a couple of other FE's, and a SBC project, I just like multiple carbs.  I have a 428 that's .030"+ and stroked to 462 cu in., running four 48 IDA Weber's.  This 63 1/2 Gal project, I drove it for a while with the 3x2 setup (before blow by and low oil psig made me park it).  With the carbs and linkage set up correctly, it did pretty good on mileage and performance, considering what it is.  None of my project cars (4) are every day drivers, just local cruise-ins and short trips to other towns for the same.

Thanks again for everyone's comments, keep 'em coming!  I'm leaving Okla later this afternoon, we'll be in CO for spring break & skiing, but I'll try to keep up with y'all on my phone.

As far as the PRW parts, y'all have already convinced me to not use them, I'll use the 406 adjustable rocker arms. 

My Galaxie 500 XL was a 390 Z code from the factory.  When I bought it partially done, it was badged as a 406, and I was told it was a 406, even tho' I knew the VIN was a Z.   After driving it a while, then pulling the "406", I discovered it's a standard b&s 390 short block, with all the 406 stuff added to it; badges (fenders & valve cover decals), 3x2 intake/carbs, dual point dizzy, 406 heads, cam/lifters/adj rockers, cast iron shorty headers, etc.

Y'all take care!










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frnkeore & Jim Nolan, thank you for your replies!  I really appreciate it!

In no particular order, responding to your comments/suggestsions;

Both of you mentioned the L-2291 pistons, so that's what I'll get.  Either of you have opinions on the Le Mans rods?  I also have a set of stock 390 rods from the engine I've pulled from the Galaxie.  I've read a lot on the Le Mans rods, both pros (heavy duty, for NASCAR) and cons (heavy, for street service, slow to rev up, getting loose over time).

I'll try to determine if the block has been decked already, I know it had machine work done.  If I can't verify, I have access to a good machinist/machine shop to check it.  He knows his FE's, I've used him on two other FE's I have.

Besides decking the block, if needed, I was already leaning towards milling the heads and using Cometic gaskets, thank you!

I like the idea of having .010" deck clearance plus the .027" gasket thickness, any ideas on how much to mill the heads before getting into trouble on intake manifold bolt holes matching up?  I don't really want to do any milling on the intake unless absolutely necessary.

PRW rocker arms, shafts & stands; I'm not familiar with them, I didn't know they were prone to breakage/unreliable.  Thank you!  But they look good! ;)  I have a set of OEM Ford adjustable rockers from a 406, I guess I can use them and sell the PRW stuff.

Mech roller cam........I'm not adverse to going a little looser with another torque converter, as long as it isn't too much.  I've converted to manual disc brakes on front, so vacuum for a brake booster isn't an issue.  I'll reconsider cam choice.

Again, I based this purchase on external parts that I could see.  It now seems that some of the internal parts he chose are not suited for my application, and I also question how well suited they were for his application, but I'm not gonna judge him on that as he's not here to defend himself.  May he rest in peace!

Thanks again for your input! 




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FE Technical Forum / Questions about a FE purchased at estate sale.
« on: March 08, 2023, 11:46:01 PM »
A fellow FE fan, asking for help on pistons and CR based on parts I'll describe below.  I apologize in advance for the length of this post.

I recently purchased a newly rebuilt FE, never installed into a vehicle or fired up on a dyno, at an estate auction.  The gentleman that built it unfortunately passed from a sudden heart attack before he could install it into his project.  I had an acquaintance that I trusted bid for me over the phone because I could not get to the auction due to weather.

I purchased it based on external bolt on parts that I could see in pictures, which included new Edel heads, an older design but NOS Edelbrock F 427 intake, Edel alum water pump, Canton 8 qt road race pan, C7ME-A block, Cobra Le Mans valve covers, an electronic dizzy of unknown brand (MSD look alike), and a Pro Performance Plus dampener and double aluminum pulleys.  I bought it for less than the cost of the  external parts I could see.

After getting it home to OK from CO, I started exploring the internals.
*The heads are Edel 6008 castings, which are 76cc chambers per Edelbrock, which I wished were 72cc, but I didn't have the casting #'s when I bid.
*PRW roller rocker arms, shafts and stands, 1.76 ratio.
*Crane Cams pushrods .080", #34621 9.065"
*Comp Cams mechanical roller 33-781-11 Magnum 243/243 w/Comp Cams solid mech roller lifters.
*C7ME A block is 4.08", so it's a .030" over 390, w/stock stroke of 3.78 (both B&S measured by me). The executor of the estate wasn't a car guy, he told me he thought it was a 390, he was correct, but that's about all he knew.  A son in law, also not a car guy, told me all he remembered was that it supposedly had Le Mans rods.

My dilemma is the pistons.  They are flat top w/double valve relief notches.  With the heads off, the pistons sit .070" below the deck at TDC w/the Fel Pro .040" head gaskets removed.  With the .070" below deck and .040" head gaskets and 76cc chambers, my rough calculations are a CR in the 8.xx range.

I haven't removed the pan yet to check the rods; stock 390 or Le Mans?

Q 1. Assuming I replace the pistons, what distance below deck at TDC should I be aiming for, still using the Fel Pro .040" head gaskets, and the 76cc Edel alum heads?  .010"? .015"?  I want the engine to be able to run on 91 octane pump gas, as 93 isn't readily available in my neck of the woods. Still hoping for upper 9's/lower 10's for compression ratio.

The only reason I can guess he built it this way, he was putting it into a mid-70's F250 4x4, with auto trans.  The truck originally had a 360, some 360's (maybe all?) had pistons way below the deck at TDC.  Maybe that's what he was thinking?

This is going in a 63 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL, along with a C6 tranny.  Induction will be a 406 3x2 intake w/Holleys and 406 shorty cast iron headers on the exhaust side. The 9" rear currently has either 3.89 or 3.91 rear gears with an open diff.  I will be changing to a Trac Loc unit with the 3.9 gears, but also set up another center section with 3.25 gears for cross country cruisin' since tranny doesn't have OD.

Q 2. Le Mans rods (IF they really are in there)??  I've never had a set before, even tho' I've had lots of FE's since the 60's.  I know they're heavy, do I keep them, or switch back to stock or aftermarket 390 rods?  From everything I've read, all FE rods are 6.488" (including Le Mans?) other than some 352 rods.  I've read about problems with the cap screws and pins/dowels getting loose.

OK, that's enough!  Thanks in advance for any advice &/or info!  Again, sorry for being so long winded!

Joe


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FE Technical Forum / Re: Vacuum advance of Tri-power FE
« on: June 17, 2016, 09:42:38 AM »
Thanks to everyone for their comments!! 

cammerfe, that sounds like fun!  I was hoping to pick up a little fuel mileage in "cruise mode" if I made some changes.

shady, good idea!  I haven't ran the carb numbers yet to see if they are the correct Holley's, if they are I don't want to do any mod's that aren't reversible, but I could pick up a new metering block for the center carb and modify it, saving the original metering block.  Or maybe just find a metering block that already has the ported vacuum that will fit my center 2 bbl.   I've also heard or read that T-birds with tri-power had a center carb with a ported vacuum connection and a vac adv dizzy.  Anyone seen that?  Or know of a part # on that carb?

Joe-JDC, thanks for the comments on adjusting the dual point dizzy!  I've owned FE dual point dizzy's in the past, but never re-curved them.  I already have the MSD 8595 w/vac adv canister from other FE projects, but if I don't use it, I can always keep your notes for the dual point dizzy and use them.  I use a MSD 8594 w/o vac adv on another FE, I'm right there with you on the initial and total advance for FE's.  FE's like a lot more timing than the original factory spec's.  In fact, I'm probably a little more aggressive than you, I'm running 18* initial and 38* total on the 8594, but it's in a 2,300 lb car w/manual tranny and 48 IDA Weber's.

My final comments; I didn't say so in my original post, but my Galaxie is a 406 6V clone, it was originally a 390 Z-code car.  I'm not adverse to running a MSD dizzy and coil, or anything else that isn't "original" to a 406 car, but I'm not gonna do any permanent mod's to the carbs, intake, etc. that would decrease their value.  Anything I don't use (dual point dizzy, etc.) will be shelved for later.  It currently has 4.30 gears, I'll be changing to 3.50 gears in the near future.  Even with 4.30 gears, it is sluggish now, but I think that is due to the COM tranny that probably needs some attention, along with the timing issues being corrected.  Anyone have any experience about changing out a COM tranny for a FE C6?  I have a C6, but I haven't had the car long enough or had the time to measure and compare dimensions of the COM to the C6.

Thanks again for your time and comments!
Joe

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FE Technical Forum / Vacuum advance of Tri-power FE
« on: June 16, 2016, 12:48:06 PM »
I've recently picked up a 63 1/2 Gal XL 500 w/406 tri-power.  The dual point distr is mech adv only, I'd like to be able to pull the dual point distr, put it on a shelf, and run a MSD 8595 vac adv distr.  The 3 Holley carbs don't have a ported vacuum connection available, it only has manifold vacuum available going to the tranny vacuum modulator.  Does anyone know of an adjustable vacuum adv canister that will fit a MSD 8595 distr?  I called MSD, they said that Moroso did.  I called Moroso, they only make one for the GM HEI distr.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
Joe

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