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Messages - cgmach1

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Dove Rollers
« on: August 16, 2013, 02:02:20 PM »
FWIW, I've been running HS rockers for three full seasons of bracket racing w/ a solid roller cam and 600LB+ open pressure and had no problems at all.  In fact these rockers are probably 20 years old and were in my street engine with a large solid cam for years also.  Also using Precision Oil Pumps shafts and strands; all work and fit perfectly.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: 650 HP 445?
« on: April 14, 2013, 03:35:42 PM »
GAM did my 448 and dynode it the first time also.  Hope you have better luck with them then I did.  Mine isn't back together yet either but getting close.  Will run Pro ET some this year.  Love to see that Fairlane when you get it done!

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FE Technical Forum / Re: 650 HP 445?
« on: April 14, 2013, 12:26:08 PM »
John, have you run that at Bandimere yet?  I recognize that dyno room.  Thanks everyone for the replies, I think I'll stay with an FE in the new car instead of jumping ship to a 385 series. Will start looking for some good 390 cores around here.  I would much rather take a chance scattering a 390 block than anymore 428 blocks and 650 HP will get me where I want to be ET wise here in Denver.  Uncorrected I lost 140 HP in my 448 on the same dyno John used for his 445.

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FE Technical Forum / 650 HP 445?
« on: April 13, 2013, 12:18:45 PM »
Do you guys think this is possible?  I would like to build this for a bracket car and get away from spending big money for a wore out 428 or 427 block, not to mention finding these in the first place.  If this seems possible, what would the block mods have to be? Cross bolted mains, etc?  Solid roller cam and head work without going to raised exhaust ports?  Any ideas from you guys?  Trying to avoid going to a 385 Series; it just doesn't look right in a 70 Fastback.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Coolent Temp for Bracket Racing
« on: February 06, 2013, 06:20:51 PM »
The problem has beeen with #1 cylinder.  First cracking the cylinder wall without a sleeve and then 25 runs later cracking it again in the same spot in the sleeve.  I have re-sleeved it again, this time with a thick sleeve and planned on filling the block to the water pump holes with Hard Block.  This engine had issues that I found after it broke the first time with a new engine builder.  Bob weights off by 35 grams, piston clearance at 9.5 thou etc.  Wasn't good. I don't really trust this block too much anymore, so this is it's last chance and was trying to make sure I wasn't doing this by running it cooler than 180.  Cap and the rest of the system are good and stays in a heated garage all winter.  The garage doesn't help with the freezing much when the engine is broken and in parts all around the garage though!

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Coolent Temp for Bracket Racing
« on: February 05, 2013, 07:20:00 PM »
No stat, just the outside ring of a stat with the center cut out for a little restriction.  Seems to control the heat well.  I do have an overflow can on it and an electric pump.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Coolent Temp for Bracket Racing
« on: February 05, 2013, 06:17:07 PM »
Thanks for all the posts.  In my case I was more interested in durability of parts because of my cracking cylinder.  I have been able to be very consistant at getting to the line at around 160 and my ET's are good.  Mostly wondering if hitting the beams at a higher temp would help with my block problem.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Coolent Temp for Bracket Racing
« on: February 02, 2013, 12:24:38 PM »
Thanks for the replies guys.  It seems I'm doing something similar to both of you in trying to hit the line at around 160.  I've been just cutting the center of the stat out to restrict the flow a little and it seems to keep work in the same way you both are doing.  Jay might remember from an earlier post of mine that I've had a problem cracking #1 cylinder a couple of times and just wanted to make sure I'm not screwing something up that is easy to change.  Thanks again.

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FE Technical Forum / Coolent Temp for Bracket Racing
« on: February 01, 2013, 06:23:43 PM »
Jay or anyone else here that bracket races, what temp do you guys like to stage the car at?  160, 180?  I've been staging at around 160 but I'm not sure if that is the best temp horsepower wise and for engine longevity.  Also, what do you use for temp control?  Stat or just restrict the flow some?

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Cracked 428 Cylinder
« on: September 18, 2012, 02:23:22 PM »
Rick, I don't have any pictures right now and the block is at the shop.  It is a vertical crack about 3/4 down from the deck and if I remember right it is about 1 1/2 " from the bottom of the bore.  I think I'll try what you and Jay suggest and install a.125 sleeve and fill the block to the pump holes.  Any particular brand of block fill work better then others?  I'll give this block one more chance if not I will have to see if I can get a 445 to run as good as this one.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Cracked 428 Cylinder
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:07:10 PM »
Yes, the replacement sleeve cracked in the same location as the first one and yes it went through into the water jacket the first time.  That's how I found it. It was that goopy slime on the dip stick; still ran right on the number on the last run.  The first time I had this rebuilt after dropping a valve in a different cylinder (my fault) that shop had the balance so far off, 35 grams on the bob wieght and destroyed a new balancer, that I thought the bad harmonics could have caused this crack but now I'm lost.  I don't turn it that hard, 6500 and through the traps at 6700.  Maybe it's time to just start over with a stroked 390.

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FE Technical Forum / Cracked 428 Cylinder
« on: September 17, 2012, 04:12:06 PM »
  Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and looking for your opinion on my 428 block.  I use it for bracket racing only and have had problems with #1 cylinder cracking;twice now. The first crack happened after approx 85 runs and was sleeved with a 3/32 sleeve that didn't go through to water.  Got 25 more runs before it cracked again in the same spot; 7 oclock position about three inches long down the bore.  It is 4.165 bore, 4.125 stroke with probe pistons, Barry R's stage X heads with one of his solid rollers.  Is this block worth sleeving again with a .125 sleeve, filling the block to the water pump holes and cross bolting or is this block had enough?  Also would extra length on the piston skirt help with the side load on the cylinders?  The probes have a shorter length skirt then Diamonds pistons do.  Thanks for the help.

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