I spent over $200 with Damper Doctors in California to get my Balancer rebuilt. They sent me the wrong on and then said they threw my old one away. They finally got me the right style and I couldn't make the car run right. I checked the timing mark and it was 10 degrees retarded at TDC. I bought a new one made in Taiwan from AutoKrafters for $100 and it was perfect. Remember that name "Damper Doctor" and avoid it.

On my Bob weight Card it just has one entry for Piston & Pins. I wouldn't think the same piston from the same manufacture would be that much different. Jay Brown probably said it best.

A person needs more information to figure CR. From what you describe I'd say you'll need rocket fuel for it to run. The Static CR won't tell you much as the Cam will decide the DCR you run. The cam will decide when your valves close to enable compression in the cylinder. DCR stays with the engine through any rpm and is the most valuable tool to decide useable cubic inch of motor and what octane gas you'll have to run to keep it from pinging.

I've got a windage tray in my 410 engine but I don't drag race it anymore. I got one in my 390 and don't drag race it. I really don't think I need them. If you drag race I'd think about leaving it in.

I used the Eagle Crank and Rods in 2014 in a 57 Fairlane's built 410. The crank was good but my engine guy that balanced the engine didn't like the Rods. (He was famous for building rods for exotic engines). He resized them and I drag raced the engine for 4 years shifting at 5000 rpm. I then put the engine in my 63 Galaxie and it still runs great (street only). I wouldn't be afraid to use their crank, especially for street use.

If you use L2291 pistons and if the block has ever been resurfaced(-.007" for resurface) you'll have .010" from top of piston to top of block. Use the .027" Comatic MLS gasket and coat both sides with copper-coat. Depending on the cam you're using (for example I used a 268/268 comp cam) you'll get a engine with .037" quench running 9.6 CR / 7.9 DCR, which would be respectable and able to run 87/89 octane gas. Unless you plan on shaving .020 off a 10.4 second ET @ 7000 rpm's, I get rid of that solid lift cam and put a nice Hydraulic cam and lifters in it. Having a questionable rocker assembly is risky at most if you're looking for dependability. Sell that rocker assy to someone that likes working on their car along side of the road. Just my take. I like working on an engine once, I like driving all the time.

Another guy on here referenced this fact. A bigger engine will get better gas mileage at highway speeds. If you have a 4000 lb. vehicle the load placed on the engine to pull that at 65-70 mph is higher on a smaller engine. In 1974 I bought a F100 with a 302 engine/automatic. It got 12 mpg around town and 12 mpg on a trip (speed limit 70 mph). My buddy got a 1975 Ford extended cab with a 460ci engine. He got 17 mpg on a trip. My 550 Honda motorcycle got 35 mpg going back and forth to work 50 miles away. I traded it for a 1300 6cyl Kawasaki with 120 hp and got 42 mpg  going back and forth to work. I learned early in life a small engine vs a large engine was no contest when it come to gas mileage pulling the same weight at 65-70 mph.