FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: sixty9cobra on March 13, 2021, 06:01:40 PM
-
Hi Guys about 10 years ago I installed hydro boost on my Mustang because there wasn't enough vacuum to run the brake booster. Fast forward 12 years I am putting in electric power steering because I'm tired of the sloppy steering and the clutter, I want to get rid of the power steering pump and hoses. What are you guys using for braking these days. I am considering putting in a vacuum booster and a electric vacuum pump. What are the choices for manual disc brakes ? Opinions please of course I have a roller cam with a ton of overlap so the vacuum is no better now.
-
So, what is your vacuum? Have successfully used a vac. can for years now on my '70 Stang with great success with about 10.5 inches at idle. Can easily get 3+ heavy stops in short intervals w.o any loss of braking power.
-
I have manual brake wilwood master front stock discs and wilwwod discs in rear and stopping is ok not great I will be curious how yours comes out. I have tossed around the electric steering but didn’t want to cut up my column. My car isn’t all original or anything it’s just in my head I guess.
-
n/m
-
Using a Maverick manual disc brake MC and switched to a manual brake pedal and works great and low vacuum doesn't matter. I went to one piece replacement front rotors since even the long ARP studs for the original two piece rotors were too short for the thick Draglites.
That's what I did. I used the Maverick manual disc master cylinder. I originally had 4 wheel power drums on my '67 Cougar. I removed the power booster system and put '68 single piston discs from a '68 Cougar on the front along with the Maverick MC. I kept the stock rear drums. I really like it. I can put any cam I want in it, plus it weighs less.
pl
-
Does anyone have a part number for the manual disc master? Rock auto calls out manual brakes doesn't specify disc/drum.
-
Using a Maverick manual disc brake MC and switched to a manual brake pedal and works great and low vacuum doesn't matter. I went to one piece replacement front rotors since even the long ARP studs for the original two piece rotors were too short for the thick Draglites.
Running same Mav manual master + mid 70s single piston disks on my Falcon for the last 27 years or so. Did the same swap on the 70 we had. Racing or street, no problem stopping.
Maunal masters will have usually a 15/16" or little smaller bore. I have old Wagner Brake catalogs at the house, can look up a part number this evening.
-
cool just have to find a manual brake pedal or move the master towards the pivot point from what it looks like.
-
I don't remember the part number, but I think it was for a 1974 Maverick.
pl
-
A Granada M/C with 15/16" bore bolted right up to my 65 F100
Lines face towards fender
Used front disks from 74 F100 that came with a 1" bore M/C
Had to shorten the push rod a bit
Factory rear drums and will slow the Slick down great even on wet streets
Ricky.
-
Does anyone have a part number for the manual disc master? Rock auto calls out manual brakes doesn't specify disc/drum.
I am 90% sure I used the Cardone 10-1588.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-brakes-4474/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/brake-master-cylinder-11289/3bff094046ed/brakebest-brake-master-cylinder-remanufactured/101588/4559084/1974/ford/maverick?q=10-1588&pos=0
-
Put up some catalog info on masters and misc in a separate thread to make locating easier later on.
-
Thanks for the info manual pedal and master on their way. Looks like Grenada is the same also. First thing is to get the steering done had a few things welded so now just to assemble and wire it.
-
Update on electric steering I must say I am pleased all the slop is gone. I am not so pleased with the manual disks pedal travel is a lot and needs lots of effort. It will do for this summer but I will need to do something better than the manual brake pedal and the Granada master cylinder.
-
What option did you chose for electric power steering? Modified stock column or rsplacemsnt?
-
If you're having trouble with excessive travel on your manual disc set-up, it sounds like you're missing the residual pressure valves. That keeps the calipers from sucking back in and having to take up that distance with the pedal on the next stop.
-
Ya know Doug I had thought about that but didn’t say anything cause how do you figure out which to install. I had seen a 2 lb a 10 lb. Is there a way to figure it out or is it trial and error. Is this something you have done before? I’m just so used to pumping the brake once before I make a stop. And do you just do the rears.
-
I used a master cylinder from a bronco 2 with manual disc drum system and all the Granada stuff on my 64 fairlane, might have been lucky but I could put lip prints on passengers windshield when ever I wan ted. Mark
-
where does the residual pressure valves live? I had discs before I went manual disc is this something I should have added? The electric steering unit is from a Prius 150 on eBay some cutting and welding and it lives under the dash.
-
where does the residual pressure valves live? I had discs before I went manual disc is this something I should have added?
There is a residual check valve on the port for the rear drum brakes. It is behind the seat. To access it you would use a screw to remove the seat. It will have a rubber check valve and a spring. This is only used on the drum side. You do not need this for disc and would make the calipers drag. Only time you have a residual valve on disc is if the master cylinder is mounted below the caliper which you do not have.
Now there is also a proportioning valve which is part of the metering block and is plumbed into the line to the rear brakes this is used to keep the rear brakes from locking up in a hard stop. If your setup was the stock disc/drum from the factory your stock one is fine. If you have different rear brakes you can get an adjustable proportioning valve, but it does not sound like this is your problem.
I would verify that the master cylinder is a disc/drum type and has the residual check valve on the drum side. If it does not you will have excessive pedal travel. That all said the manual setup will have more travel since the manual brake pedal has more leverage and the master is a smaller bore. This is required to still be able to generate enough braking force without assist. If you go to a bigger bore master cylinder your pedal travel will be less, but the effort will go up.
Considering you went from a Hydraboost to manual brakes I am not surprised you are not happy, as is said "there is no free lunch". The old manual Ford disc/drum setup works, but will not match what you had. If you want to get rid of the hydroboost next best would be the factory vacuum booster and 1" master cylinder setup. You can add a vacuum tank and there are OE vacuum pumps that can also keep the vacuum up if you have low vacuum because of a long duration cam. Other option is electric, but that seems to still be an expensive option, have not heard of any DIY setups yet.
-
So came across this page has an interesting new electric brake booster the iBooster. Wonder if Apple will sue Bosch over that one... LOL
Page has some good info as well as the links. I'd say it has some good DIY potential, just have to wait for all those EV cars to hit the junkyards.
https://www.evcreate.nl/electric-power-brakes/
Here is the Bosch video
https://youtu.be/lJzbCA6qrBw