FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: Jb427 on October 25, 2020, 05:01:01 AM
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Hi all I am still pretty new to this forum and people on here have been very helpful with question's
around 2 years ago now i imported my 1966 fairlane hardtop to Australia. It was a 390 4b c6 car drum brakes all round.
First thing done was changing the brakes. I use Australia xf front brakes and stub axles and the steering tie rods to new Australia Xr falcon ones along with a remote brake booster mounted on the left hand side inner Wheel well.
That gave me vented front discs car was then lowered front and rear quite abit from stock diff was narrowed to fit 10/15 with 265 50 bf goodrich rubber and 8/15 225 50 fronts
fiberglass hood came shortly after that it did get it painted blue but i have lost the photo's of that.
Overall car looked pretty solid some slight bubbling of paint around the rear wheel well along with stress cracks at the top of the rear quarters and start of the C pillar.
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The car then got sand blasted back to bear metal to start fresh here is what was found.
Apart from what is shown in the pic's the left hand rear tail light was almost 100% gone and held in place with some welding if you can all it that :o
fun started here first i ordered 2 half quarters but that was soon scraped 7 foot long quarter panel's are scary for me to weld something like that quite along time went buy but i ordered 2 new auto metal direct rear quarter panels and 2 new inner taillight mounting brackets and 2 new outer inner wheel wells.
The Auto Metal Direct parts are great the normal pushing pulling and tweaking here and there but over all a very pain free install highly recommended for the panels i bought.
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Car then went off for final prep and paint. Colour is Australian falcon colour Teal Glow
I have had the car back for around 2 months now
New wheels are fitted Torq thrust D 10/15 3/ 3/4" backspace and 8.5/15 3/ 3/4 fronts
Front and rear glass is back in just finished fitting the frontend. I am also using a malwoods under dash clutch master cyllinder and hydraulic throwout bearing for the bullnose toploader wide ratio big in and out shafts Malwoods also supplied my clutch billet flywheel and pressure plate. Rear diff is still std 28 spline 3.5 ratio upgrades to come on that yet.
Powering my fairlane will be a healthy 482 BBM block heads intake engine more info and pic's on that soon camshaft was dialed in today after i got all the goodies back from my engine shop Fataz Competion Engines.
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Nice work and I love those wheels. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Jealous of your paint job. Beautiful
I’m in the middle of a 67 right now. You’re giving me inspiration.
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Cheers people
fresh pic i forgot to add of the borgeson's power steering box you can also see the spacer made for the brake master cylinder.
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Here are some very early pic's of the new fuel tank and fuel system
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I likey! But then I am a little biased. Great work, looking good.
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I am wondering about the borgeson steering sector, it appears that there is plenty of room for the factory Z-bar. Do you know if that is the case ? I thought Borgeson use to claim their kit wouldn't work with the stock Z-bar. Also is that the 14-1 sector ? Thanks Denny
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Just curious...Your tank is mounted from the upside like a Mustang. And is a part
of the trunkfloor, my 66 was the same way and i have seen 66-67s with solid trunkfloor
with the tank hang under with bands like a Galaxie ???? why,where, when???
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I am wondering about the borgeson steering sector, it appears that there is plenty of room for the factory Z-bar. Do you know if that is the case ? I thought Borgeson use to claim their kit wouldn't work with the stock Z-bar. Also is that the 14-1 sector ? Thanks Denny
Box is 14-1 Not sure about the Z-bar fit but they are not much bigger then stock box all the major changes are at the end of the steering column my fairlane was a column shift.
There is more info on the borgeson site now about the conversion i'am happy with box and conversion. Here is a link to box and better info then when i bought mine https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=128&page=1
Just curious...Your tank is mounted from the upside like a Mustang. And is a part
of the trunkfloor, my 66 was the same way and i have seen 66-67s with solid trunkfloor
with the tank hang under with bands like a Galaxie ???? why,where, when???
My stock fuel tank is mounted from inside the trunk and was the floor on my fairlane. One thing i hated about the stock tank was the filler tube was behind the licence plate and was too low and almost level with the top of the tank.
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I like the filler behind the plate as it keeps the body clean....but, since service stations have been putting that plastic point of sale advertising holder crap on the pumps (many years now) I can no longer get a good angle & filling is a pain in the arse!
I have a 66 & a 67. Both tanks go in from the top & form the floor. Never seen a 66/7 Fairlane with an underslung tank.
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Beautiful Fairlane! Looks great!
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Small update got the hood fitted up now.
Engine will be a 482 ci
Heads are bbm cnc ported milled for T&D race rocker system. Block is a bbm iron block steel scat crank callies ultra H beam 6.7" rods and diamond flat top pistons solid roller cam.
Not much more to say right now waiting on some cometic head gaskets with some luck i can have them here before the new year.
Here are some pics of the bottom end and early mock up of the T&D rockers enjoy.
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Nice work! That engine should probably run ok for ya.
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Very nice!
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Thanks everyone for the kind words i will go into more detail on the build once i get over waiting for parts :(
I should have some fuel system install starting soon not looking to fun trying to fit -10 and -8 lines in the car. I got my diff back today it ended up 55.11'' or 1400mm axle flange to flange.
Nice work! That engine should probably run ok for ya.
Could be a dud yet ;) and i think ill miss the std 390 that you can drive anywhere.
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Have your made the wheelwells any bigger or does the wheels fit without.?
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Thanks everyone for the kind words i will go into more detail on the build once i get over waiting for parts :(
I should have some fuel system install starting soon not looking to fun trying to fit -10 and -8 lines in the car. I got my diff back today it ended up 55.11'' or 1400mm axle flange to flange.
Nice work! That engine should probably run ok for ya.
Could be a dud yet ;) and i think ill miss the std 390 that you can drive anywhere.
Cant wait, as I will have to upgrade my fuel system also. Are you going to run a dead head system or use a return line?
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Have your made the wheelwells any bigger or does the wheels fit without.?
When the rear quarters got replaced the side of the outer inner fender was changed. It starts from nothing at the top of lump that goes around the inner fender and ends up about 1and 1/2 inch wider at the top and squares up that out side it still has the lip on the out side as well springs are relocated around 1.3 inches or 35mm in.
Have your made the wheelwells any bigger or does the wheels fit without.?
My pump is an areomotive a1000 brushless unit it is -10 in and -8 return Bbm tunnel wedge has 2 725 QF carbs.
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Small update
fuel lines are for the most part finished fuel tank is being finished now I think these pics are before i had lines fully mounted in place
Head gaskets are now here Big thanks to Brent at https://lykinsmotorsports.com/ for all his help and advice It is hard working through emails But he never fails to help me anytime i have questions.
no new pics on engine yet final fine tuning of the T&D race rockers and intake manifold fit as well as my Ice Ignition system here is a link to there web site https://www.iceignition.com/
My bbm heads need abit of a tune up on the head bolt boss's under the t&d sub plates so i can use the same size shim spacer washers all around. Intake pushrod holes need to be touched up as well to give clearance for the 3/8 .135 wall pushrods. More news soon
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Found a few small problems this week wile test fitting solid roller lifters heads and t&d race rockers.
Mentioned some of the problems before here is more detail on what was found.
When checking heads that have been milled for T&D race rockers shims need to be placed under the rocker sub plate at the head bolt boss's and have 0.002 interference with the sub plate before they get torqued down i am using a 0.120 shim. On the right head i ended up with .016 between the sub plate and the milled section for the subplate to fit to and on the left head i had .007 not a big deal but i was expecting the work to be better they are all the same across each head from the milled section to the bolt boss's one head will have .014 taken off the head bolt boss the other will have .005 taken off the bolt boss's to get 0.002 between the head and rocker subplate
Other Problem was cam bearings my engine machine shop did not do a full inspection after they installed the cam bearings 1st bearing was not clearanced for the distributor not a big deal. But i did pay to have the block cleaned and plastic wrapped Fe engines are not common here and aftermarket block build much less common 99% sure mine will be the only one he will ever see so i can let that one slide.
Last and what i think was the biggest problem was cam bearing 2 and 3 the 2 of them had been installed ever so little too far so they stopped one lifters on each side touching the camshaft lobe .
Not a big deal to fix but i think this should of been picked up with final inspection. I hear about these types of cam bearing install problems quite often for anyone building engines if you have the skill and the tools install the cam bearings your self my engine builder did warn me about this but i chose to have the machine shop do it and the poor man pay's twice :-[ .
My pistons ended up 0.005 down the hole with some advice from Brent i went with cometic 4.360 bore 0.036 gasket for 0.041 clearance. Thanks to Cometic Australia for getting me the gasket's i needed over the xmass brake static compression should be 11.28 to 1 this has been checked by ccing head combustion chambers and pistons in block.
I had to also change my pushrod length from 9.300 to 9.250 3/8 .135 wall 210rad the intake manifold fits good and square push rod holes need to be opened up for the larger pushrods.
Maybe some one can chime in here with some advice on how much clearance i should shoot for i only plan to turn the engine to 7000rpm.
I also will be installing lifter oil restrictors I am using morel pressure oiling solid roller lifters I will try to get some photos of that as well when i was looking for info on how this is done i found it hard to find good info on how and where those restrictors go and it is done. Brent helped me with that one too.
I should have a finished fuel tank back this week or early next week I will make sure to get better photos this time last ones i posted are not very good and don't really show anything useful.
One other thing i need to ask all the 66 67 hardtop fairlane people front windows I have mine installed and fitting ok but i am not happy with the fit i can't seem to get the front of the window to come up even with the back of the front window there has to be a trick to this but my brain hurts after an hour or 2 of adjusting them any tips on this problem would be great every thing is clean well greased glass is not detached at the bottom just need to know the right way to get the window to tilt down at the back and up at the front so it comes up even the window stops don't change this. i will post some photos of this in a day or 2
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New fuel tank is done and worked out at 28 us gallons or 106 Ltrs 1/2" -8 Breather/rollover valve is top left return line is top right i still need a 120 deg -8 fitting for a nice straight line to the -8 bulkhead and 90 deg fitting just above it hard to see with everything black. Breather line still needs to be plumbed.
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You might try loosening the regulator mounting bolts on the window assembly and rocking it so the back end of the regulator is up and the front down. I know there is not much adjustment there but you may not need much to get it leveled out. Make sure all the stops are loose. How is the the vent window lined up with the A pillar? If that is tilted back for whatever reason it could be influencing the window.
Good luck!
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You might try loosening the regulator mounting bolts on the window assembly and rocking it so the back end of the regulator is up and the front down. I know there is not much adjustment there but you may not need much to get it leveled out. Make sure all the stops are loose. How is the the vent window lined up with the A pillar? If that is tilted back for whatever reason it could be influencing the window.
Good luck!
Thanks for that info 6667fan I will give that a shot this weekend I think i have the Quarter glass/A pillar pretty good i think i will lossen them up and give your trick a try.
Cheers.
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Found a even bigger problem with work done to my bbm block now it will be back to the shop to get fixed the way it should have been the first time.
1 lifter bore will get a sleeve you can see why in the pic machine shop said one lifter bore had a casting mark in it but it will be ok. But that is not ok for my liking i would of had it fixed like it should of been at the time.
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That’s really disappointing. I’m sorry you have to deal with that.
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Small update got a dummy block from a friend and some old heads for test fitting things. Lots of small changes needed fitted gearbox and scatter shield fuel system needs some tweaking from plan A looking at going cable accelerator now too headers will get fitted soon ready for the new 3" system to be made. Should keep me going wile the bbm block is getting repaired.
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Great work mate! Its going to be a ripper when done.
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Great work mate! Its going to be a ripper when done.
Cheers
Fuel system is now finished did not work out the way i planed but i am happy with how it ended up. Will have my block back next week so the fun stuff can start back up :)
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Here are some photos i found of the Mal woods under dash clutch master cylinder i lost the photos of the pedal box out of the car. Clutch fluid reservoir is just left of brake master cylinder.
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Picked up engine block this week after lifter bore repair all went well heads are done too for T&D race rockers i forgot to get some pic's of the block repair. Gearbox is fitted to cut hole in the floor for shifter all engine parts just need cleaning and rechecking as they get refitted just missing hydraulic thowout bearing 3 1/2" custom tail shaft and 3 1/2" exhaust system fitted and if i get time front bucket seats recovered. week or 2 should have some good progress on engine.
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Engine update long block is pretty much done now big job is well under way making the 3/8 push rods clear intake not much to see just a bunch of push rods with tape on them to show the spots they are hitting but i like photos so i took one of a friends xy falcon gt 351 just finished being restored it is running a high comp 351c on E85 and a pic of finished body of my 66 fairlane I should have a running car in a month or 2 if everything goes to plan fingers crossed.
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Looking good mate! Great progress. :D
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Cheers 66Fairlane It is a little painful being so close to the end and finding all the small things you missed.
Fuel tank cover is done and fitted just needs painting and then trunk will be ready for some carpet. Engine is delayed for now due to a tone of work at my engine builders.
I have a Question for you 66Fairlane did you fit 3 point belts to your car?. i put all the mounting points in when the body was bare metal did you get yours made or use a mustang style set?.
Nice Surprise this afternoon Added to this post is new engine photos one push rod still needs some work to get clearance heads are on for the final time with some luck may have it done over the easter holidays.
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Hi Jb. I don't have any seat belts........Maybe one day. ;D
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Hi Jb. I don't have any seat belts........Maybe one day. ;D
I thought you would of had belts for sure ill have to make sure to get lots of photos then of when i get mine sorted out. i did a mount down bottom just in front of rear seat for the retractor a mount for the shoulder strap at the top of the rear side trim panel and i put one in the roof too but I won't use that one it spoils the look with a belt hanging down there.
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Yeh, the rears would be easy. Its the front that present the headaches. I won't use the roof either. Also hard to hide the inertia reel inside the rear window cavity. I have always wanted to go down the 'belt in seat' route like some Mercs and Bimmers, plus you get comfy seats. Just haven't got there yet.
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Motor is back at home now lots of small things to check fit and finish fit.
Photos did not come out well lighting was really bad.
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Got some progress done Engine is in and mounted have a few fitment problems to fix sump drain plug is close to the front crossmember need to trim some off the bottom lip to make room so it can be removed have to take the bolts out of the brake master cylinder to install or remove the left side rocker cover. But thank goodness the brake lines don't need to be removed just to get to the rockers. Engine has been moved back around 6mm or 1/4" but i may have to move it back to standard makes front left top extractor bolt unable to be installed or remove with out lifting the engine not that you can get them out with the engine mounts in anyhow. My custom hydraulic throw out bearing looks like it will be a few months away so changing the 2.5" exhaust to 3.5" will be the next job. More updates soon
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Good progress. Feels great when they're in. Makes ya feel like your on the home stretch.
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It dose feel good with the end in sight. But i never want to see another fe header bolt again pulled the left and right headers off and on all day what a nightmare and they still need to come off and on a few more times yet. The black Eagle Racing engine mounts are so very slightly different still a (great product). I made a few thickness engine mount spacer plates today number 2 pipes on left and right side are just a little to close to the shock towers i will fit a empty gearbox case and extension housing tomorrow so i can get final angles and height all sorted got some 3.5" and 3" exhaust flanges today I may not be able to go 3.5" and keep the ground clearance i want but ill give it a shot. A bunch of new parts are on the way but it is a shame i can't even buy exhaust gaskets here in Australia apart from fel pro almost every part even some thing simple is a dam special order. I should get engine fit finished over the long weekend should have better update then.
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Few more pics of todays progress got a dummy gearbox in to set engine height and angle i had to add 1/8th" thick plates under my engine mount also a pic of fuel tank cover battery box spare tire.
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Ran into some small problems test fitting some old and new parts fresh photos below show my old radiator shroud/fan set up for Australian weather I had this set up running before all the new engine gearbox engine mount changes it was tight before now it is a problem radiator is 4 row 26" wide 22" high and 3.2" thick at the tanks fan + shroud set up is Derale twin 12" fans shroud was cut down from 2.75" to around 2.25 inches giving just enough clearance between fans and radiator. my old cast iron water pump was fitted along with cvf water pump pully it will be changed from button head hex bolts to counter sunk bolts so the end of the water pump pully will be flat. The Black Eagle Racing engine mounts are adjusted to the most forward position now that i have the engine mounted very close to the right angle and height i can move the engine back with the engine mount spacers that makes a new problem when i did a dummy fit on an engine block heads exhaust and the tunnelwedge intake i forgot to grab the sump from my engine builder the moroso T pan i think the canton T pan is the same has the sump plug on the drivers side rear corner of the pan right next to the 66/67 fairlane crossmember i had to do a small bit of cutting and grinding to the lip at the bottom of the crossmember just to make it so i could remove the sump plug. There is still good clearance around the bottom of the sump and crossmember once i move the engine back i think engine will need to be pulled sump remove and sump plug moved. On the steps that did go forward wiring is almost done just some more braided wrap to install to finish that Custom hydraulic throwout bearing is being made by Mal Woods with some luck i will have that in a few weeks and be able to final install the gearbox shifter and reinstall interior to a finished state then new tailshaft 35 spline 3rd member and axles and exhaust can be finished.
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Jb, if I understand you correctly you still have a clearance problem between rad and wp pulley?
I have the same Derale fan set up in my mustang. I was able to cut about a half inch out of the fan housing that butts to the rad and gain clearance. But you have to be careful not to cut off so much that the center of the fan motor contacts the rad fins. Then you have to weld new brackets on.
Hope I understood you. You guys talk funny down there. ;D
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Jb, if I understand you correctly you still have a clearance problem between rad and wp pulley?
I have the same Derale fan set up in my mustang. I was able to cut about a half inch out of the fan housing that butts to the rad and gain clearance. But you have to be careful not to cut off so much that the center of the fan motor contacts the rad fins. Then you have to weld new brackets on.
Hope I understood you. You guys talk funny down there. ;D
With my 390 with stock engine mounts i had about 1/4 inch clearance between the pulley bolts and fans just enough room that i could install/remove a fan belt. My fan shroud is cut down too just like you did around 1/2 inch i cut it down as tight as i could go with out the fans hitting the radiator. I think the engine mounts are the big change cause they are fabricated they need some tweaking i have not looked at slotting any holes yet in the engine mounts but i will look and try some things over the weekend I was hoping i could make it better then before when i wanted to remove the radiator i use to have to remove the water pump first. If i can make the bypass work with out it being a pain to install i will use it but when i get my new water pump i was going to delete the bypass and mod the thermostat with some holes around the outside just to make it better to fit.
You guys talk funny down there. ;D
Yes we do ;D and we do the best burnouts in the world ;) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyzFhUSIpaQ
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LOL
I’ll give that to ya.
Admire the attitudes and cars down there.
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Had a good Win today ;) moved the engine mount spacers around and remade radiator mounts ended up with more room like i wanted about 1/2 inch between the pulley face and fan's.
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Gotta celebrate the wins. Good stuff!
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Sure is good to have a win
If all goes well finishing off the last few bits of wiring really just fuel pump and fuel pump safety switch and the ice ignition i will try to get it running next week. New water pump is on its way ill get some fresh pic's next week.
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Good news Engine got it's first start up today all went well so far. Needs a more camshaft :P still waiting on throwout bearing before i can do any more sadly.
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How much cam ya got now?
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How much cam ya got now?
258 264 @50 108 696 lift i have already emailed Brent ill have a chat to him about a spicy stick.
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It took some time but gearbox and hydraulic throwout bearing is finished the strange 35 spline truetrack 3rd member and 35 spline mark williams axles are geting done now. Still working on a custom hurst shifter handle sadly i wont have my bucket seats done in time for my goal of all ford day in 2 weeks. I hope to have the car driving by then here are some pic's of the mods done to throw out bearing lines so gearbox can be removed and installed with out pulling scatter shield.
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How much cam ya got now?
258 264 @50 108 696 lift i have already emailed Brent ill have a chat to him about a spicy stick.
That aint a little cam - it just idles nice for a street racer. I've had a couple guys north of 650HP and into the low tens/high nines on a similar stick.
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Don't get me wrong Barry it will be a ripper
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Car is done and driving after a long wait for axles I have a few small things to fix the new engine has lowered the car about half an inch it needs to come up and inch at the front.
fresh pic.
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:D Looking great! There's always something to do. I'm still doing a bit here and a bit there but driving it in the meantime. How is it driving, I bet your loving it?
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It drive's good have not gone far yet need to adjust a few things first clutch is pain it comes off the floor 3 inches before it starts to grab i will talk to mal woods about that see if there is anything that can be done or if i just need to put a stop on it. Scatter shield is 40mm off the ground need to fix those before running it in. Set of springs will go in it this weekend going to buy a set of the coilover's soon.
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Update post
Car has had a few changes I have over 5000miles on the engine now and it has been flawless swapping from the 4 speed to c6 auto 3500 converter works very well.
New Seat covers and door trims showed up back in September after almost a 2 year wait still needs to have the console covered yet.
Fitted Aldan coilovers in the front they are a great kit well worth the money still looking at adding a gearvendors OD and maybe upgrading to wilwood brakes all round.
Here are some fresh photos
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Very nice. What is the rear gear ratio?
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Could eat off that engine. Very nicely done.
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Gorgeous!
I love the stance!
It's perfect!
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Car looks great, but on one of your later posts, you mentioned that you were not happy with the clutch pedal operation, and next thing, you put an automatic in it. Did I miss something ? Just curious what the reason for putting an automatic in.
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Very nice. What is the rear gear ratio?
3.5's It gets gets lots of street highway driving. Right now it is just right can drive it anywhere and if you stand on the gas it just goes bananas.
Car looks great, but on one of your later posts, you mentioned that you were not happy with the clutch pedal operation, and next thing, you put an automatic in it. Did I miss something ? Just curious what the reason for putting an automatic in.
My Father got me into cars and we built this together he is in his late 70s because the engine is pretty peppy I had mal woods custom make a clutch set up and under dash master for the fairlane but it was too much of a race clutch and I want my old man to drive and enjoy the car wile he can and the clutch was just too heavy I did talk to mal woods about changing the set up but a good c6 came up at the right price so i bought it and got it rebuilt and beefed up to suite the engine.
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Looks fantastic mate! Love the way it sits. I bet you can't get the grin off ya face (or your old man's) when driving it. Great job.
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The 3.50 is very responsive. ;D
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Thank you all for the kind words
I got lots of help and advice from people on this forum.
Next year I hope to do a 1/8 mile air strip event pre 1968 cars maybe a drag and drive event or nostalgia drags not sure it will do any good with the chassis set up but if your not having fun then your doing it wrong ;D