FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: sixty9cobra on June 28, 2020, 02:00:49 PM
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Hi guys I have a 69 Mustang FB with a 630 flywheel HP 428 .040 over, Edelbrock heads, .700 solid, roller, Scat forged crank, aluminum flywheel, Hooker 1 3/4 coated headers, 3" Magnaflow exhaust, Edelbrock aluminum water pump, Edwlbrock Victor, Champion 4 row radiator, Focus electric fans. I have a 160 stat, The car stays at 180 idleing all day if the temp is above 80 degrees outside. As soon as the motor goes above 2000 rpm the temp rises as high as 210 going 70 mph in overdrive. Let it idle and it eventually cools off. I realize Champion is not the best radiator but it gets rid of the heat when the engine is turning slow. The Focus fans aren't the the best either but at 70 mph in overdrive turning 2200 should be enough air without fans. I put in an 180 stat figuring the water doesn't have enough time to cool off but didn't help. No thermostat the same thing. The only thing I can figure is with the big cam and lots of overlap doesn't make horsepower till 2000 rpm. I even bought one of those aluminum pieces that covers the top of the grill to force air thru the radiator. I would buy a 1100 dollar Griffen if I knew it would solve the problem. Suggestions please.
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Hey Harry hope all is good besides the car. So what is different besides the motor rebuild. Water pump, pulleys radiator, fans. Is the radiator an OEM design or is it an aftermarket cross flow. I’m assuming that you checked the usual stuff like timing. Is it possible that the carb is lean at cruising speed. Something like that and the timing being off could do it. Water pump cavitation?
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It has run hot before the rebuild but never overheats. I guess I'm being more careful because this rebuild cost a small fortune between the forged crank roller valvetrain and the Victor purchase and porting bla bla. Timing is locked at 35 deg. Radiator is not a cross flow but probably a Chinese aluminum rad its pretty thick might be junk I'm not sure. Cavitation I have no clue how to check that, I think I slowly out grew something on the cooling system. If it didn't cool off when idling I would say its the radiator. Somehow I think its an airflow or possible developing more heat above 2 grand due to making horsepower ? I have no idea. I do know I'm running 50 degrees over the thermostat cruising on flat ground.
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So if it’s an OEM design I guess your running an engine fan. Does it have a clutch fan and are you running a shroud. Are you running stock pulleys.
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Fans from a Ford Focus two electric fans in a plastic shroud fits right in place of the stock fan shroud. One of the members here suggested them he runs them on his Mustang and he lives in Cali. I thinks its fairly warm there.
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I have seen this condition when the thermostat fails and is always open, it does not control the coolant flow and the coolant actually flows through the radiator to fast. It’s not common but I have seen it. Usually the T star has broken in two.
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I have tried 2 or 3 different thermostats even a high flow Moroso.
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What I had to do to make my Mach1 cool was notch the frame rails in front and put in a 31" long X 19" high, two core crossflow aluminum radiator. Never a problem after that. Believe it or not, the two cheap Summit Racing aluminum radiators have both worked very well for me:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380431
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380431-3
- Edited to correct the part numbers
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I assume your battery is in the trunk? I also was considering this radiator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KILLER-Aluminum-Radiator-Mustang-1967-1968-1969-1970-25-BIG-BLOCK-COOLING-POWER/263994887825?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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Been there done that.
I did Hot Rod Power Tour 2016, known as the hottest ever.
Set up was a Summit branded cross flow 28x19 with Ford Contour fans.
My experience was exactly what the OP has, idle under control 190 all day,going down the road temp would Climb,200/205.
I cut/fabricated little flaps in the shroud,that helped a lot but took a while to settle back to 190 going down the road.
I did 2016 Hot Rod Power Tour with that set up it was at best OK.
2 years ago I switched to a C&G performance dual fan set up with only the 11” fans themself creating a shroud , AC on 97* 200 at idle but the temp just falls at road speed and sits right on 185 AC on, 180 ac off.
This is in a 68 Mustang,I run both the radiator support and rear hood seal.
The fan openings are not large enough to let air OUT or through the whole radiator.
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I wonder if the electric fans & shroud are blocking the air flow at speed?
Can you ditch that setup & just try a clutch fan?
It might heat up at idle but if it runs cool at speed, then you've found the problem.
Also - do you have any vac advance? 35 total is a little low for cruise - they usually like 40-50 total timing (including vacuum) at CRUISE, of course that's too much if you have your foot in it Over 50 or less than 40 at cruise can start to make them run hotter.
My guess is the high speed airflow though.
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I assume your battery is in the trunk?
Of course. Isn't that where they belong? ;D
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I agree with Jay about the cross flow radiator. I notched one side frame rail and got a 2 row 1.25 inch tube Griffin radiator with dual 11 inch fans from Jegs.. The radiator Jay is showing you you could put dual 12 inch fans and if I was to do it again I would get the fans from Spal. I also got a smaller pulley from CVF. Now all of this is great if it’s your problem. It does seem like you just need more cooling.
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Good ideas guys most seem to like the 28" cross flow radiator, which means fabricating hoses which is no big deal. Better fans, battery in the trunk. No vacuum advance on this motor timing is locked, no Centrificall or vacuum advance. the good Spal fans are like 180 each. Something to think about.
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They come as a pair together in a shroud Harry. Get the relay kit, as a matter of fact get 2 and run each one on its own relay.
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Stangman would you mind sending me some pics of your setup? Or could I come and look your not that far away? Sorry I forgot your name not one of my finer points.
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The old rule of thumb is 'overheat at idle = airflow'...'overheat at speed = radiator'
Pretty accurate except I have seen some electric fan shrouds 'dam up' the airflow at speed causing overheating. I have tried numerous everything over years. For me can't beat a big factory paddle fan, factory shroud & big radiator.
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I run a crossflow in mine and it stays cool even with AC. However, I just bought the crossflow because the car wasn't an FE car and it was a cheap, effective option. Generally a good 24 inch CJ radiator works super and no need to cut up a car yet (although you make a lot of power, you may need to, just trying to troubleshoot before you cut)
I would ignore the engine itself for now.
1 - Any changes to pulleys with this engine? Specifically pulley ratio.
2 - Did you run those fans with the old engine?
3 - Does it cool down when it idles again (I think the answer was yes)
4 - I think you are saying that idling in the driveway it stays nice and cool? Is that indefinitely?
5 - What does it do on the highway?
6 - Anything blocking the exit below the front of the engine? (New pumps, gadgets, cool cans, etc)
To me, it sounds like something is fighting the airflow through the radiator while driving. Did you potentially rewire and have the fans blowing toward the radiator? Could the fans be blocking airflow? (Most aftermarket have rubber flaps to allow airflow moving)
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Hi Ross
1, No
2. no it ran warm always over the thermostat by 20 degrees.
3.yes it will come back to 180 when it idles at a light on a hot day say 90 or hotter 190
4. Yes
5. On the highway 210 215 forever unless its below 80 degrees. 50 degrees or less 180 or less. I dont do much highway driving its just a toy to and from cars and coffee or a quick race.
I even bought this to force the air thru the radiator.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Undercover+Innovations/930/69MU-00B/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0M2YjJSn6gIVFKSzCh12rgKwEAQYAiABEgIePfD_BwE
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i did not read everyone's reply,but it might be the same thing happened to me.my 428 at idle ran cool but when you start giving it throttle it would start to heat up.i tried everything new stats,shroud,etc.i also have a 4 row champion rad and a eld alu water pump.i was going down the highway and watched the temp rise above 210.the faster i went it kept heating up.i got out and parked on the side of the road and popped the hood.i revved the engine with my hand at the carb.i noticed something moving.i looked down and revved it again and i saw my bottom rad hose sucking shut every time i revved it.i went and got a bottom hose with wire wound up in it.it dont suck shut any more and it never gets above 185-190 even at red lights and heavy traffic. p.s.i like my champion radiator.i know they are cheaper than the big brand names.i have run it for 4 years now and it has been flawless.i personally dont think your rad is the problem.warm your car up and take it for a ride and when it starts over heating pull over pop the hood and watch that bottom hose while you rev it.im hoping this is your problem.it is a cheap easy fix to buy a new bottom hose
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So, here is my opinion, I think that you don't have an issue :) However, I like what you are trying to do. Now the post above is 100% valid, if you are collapsing a hose, that'd do it.
However, 210-215 cruising that recovers quickly is pretty darn good. I would even say that depending on the gauge, sender, and voltage the car is running, that there is a variance there, and you could even be cooler than the gauge shows
Is it an electrical gauge or mechanical? If electrical, would ask one of the engineers what an electric thermocouple does with extra voltage, would the variance show higher on the gauge or lower?
Another thing you could do is gut the thermostat or run a purpose-built restrictor of about the same size. it would take out the "opening temp" of the thermostat out of the equation. However, I would not run without one, as an engine likes some restriction to force water everywhere inside the block and minimize hot spots and cavitation.
However, I can't see a reason to spend more money, if you really wanted to, make some rubber flaps in the shroud for air to go around the fans at speed, but you'd need quite a bit of area to make a difference I think. Maybe not though if in the right place, like the 4 corners
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+1 for lower hose sucking shut.
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Harry whatever is best for you I could send pics or 32 Plymouth rd massapequa 516 209-7874. But boy wouldn’t it be great if it’s the lower hose. By the way Harry what temp sender do you have in the car meaning what temp does it go on and off.
Joe Pisanello
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"Champion 4 row radiator, Focus electric fans. I have a 160 stat, The car stays at 180 idleing all day if the temp is above 80 degrees outside. As soon as the motor goes above 2000 rpm the temp rises as high as 210 going 70 mph in overdrive. "
Your problems is too cold a thermostat and too thick a radiator. Also, I'll bet that rad uses close fin spacing, which is even worse. You are not moving air though that core. Been there, tossed that. A dual 1" core aluminum radiator with more open fin spacing running at 200F will run rings around an old thick copper/brass unit. The water needs to be HOT in the engine to do proper heat exchange. The more temperature differential, the better a radiator works. This is X2 for aluminum. Besides, if you were to get it to run all the time at 160 your engine wear goes up and your oil pollutes and doesn't clean up as well - adding to the wear problem.
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I run a champion 4 core and it heats up in less than 5 minutes.thermostat kicks in and it goes to 180.rad stays too hot to touch.i dont think that is his problem.they are rated to 750 horse so on a 600+ engine i think its fine. my stock copper rad would go over 210 at red lights and would not cool down till i drove a mile or two.,but the champion only goes to 190 or so at red lights and cools back to 180 after you get going again.im still hoping its that bottom hose collapsing. that is exactly what mine was doing.
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I just went out and squeezed my bottom hose it has no spring in it. That could be the problem. Ross its a sun electric guage. Fans come on at 180. I had no thermostat 160 i80 195 same result. Joe send me pics if you can hlhacker@optonline.net. Let me be clear it doesn't overheat just runs HOT it never puked antifreeze.
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even when the bottom hose sucked shut,some coolant was still flowing,it was just restricted severely. mine didnt over heat and puke either it just ran hot while driving at speed. im lucky i spotted this. you have to wait till it heats up good then rev it up while watching the hose.
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I just went out and squeezed my bottom hose it has no spring in it. That could be the problem. Ross its a sun electric guage. Fans come on at 180. I had no thermostat 160 i80 195 same result. Joe send me pics if you can hlhacker@optonline.net. Let me be clear it doesn't overheat just runs HOT it never puked antifreeze.
Worth checking that bottom hose, but just to be clear, wasn't talking about no thermostat, I was talking about a restrictor. However, hard to tell how hot that really is, 210-215 isn't HOT, it's just warm normal, and again 13V - 14.8V system, not sure how more current affects a sender. In the end though, I am like you, I like them cooler than that, but it isn't even hotting boiling point under pressure. So don't worry too badly
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I ran that same fan set up, the air can not flow through the two fan openings. The air is damming up inside the shroud. Read my post above, been there done that. You need some type of vents that open at speed.
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you might try a clutch fan,thats what im using with the 4 row champion,and im not even using a shroud,just the fan and radiator
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>.i dont think that is his problem.they are rated to 750 horse so on a 600+ engine i think its fine
You don't rate radiators for HP, that's marketing BS. Besides, you're not making 600HP putting along at 65 MPH. The 4 cores are too thick for use with electric fans. Go look at any modern car and tell me what you see - almost no fixed engine fans aa zero copper/brass core radiators. A 2020 Shelby makes 760 HP and I can guarantee without looking it doesn't have a 4 core radiator in it.
(http://raceabilene.com/misc/LT1fanA.jpg)
Two cores, 31x19, OEM fans, keeps 500+ HP under 200 at full throttle with only the 30 GPH water pump running.
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Cooling in these Mustang has always been a challenge with high horsepower engines.
The problem, I think is getting the airflow out of the engine compartment. The shock towers tend to block the flow around the engine.
A front spoiler helps.
Your 4 core radiator probably blocks airflow.
Years ago I asked a Ford cooling engineer about crossflow vs the standard 69/70 Mustang top and bottom tank with the inlet/outlet at opposite corners. He said there is only 1 or 2 degrees by changing over to a crossflow.
I've seen several 69/70 Mustangs that came from Nevada, and they had cut out openings the side aprons ahead of the shock towers.
Ceramic coating the inside and outside of the headers helps.
Somewhere around 10 to 15% or more of engine cooling is airflow around the engine and back under and around the transmission.
A separate oil cooler out front could help too.
The front end design of these cars, and really all cars of these years is not very efficient at directing the cooling airflow through the radiator, a bunch of the flow is lost in the large cavity behind the grille and the resulting open areas behind the valance panel/ahead of the tires, etc.
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I don't know if this information will be of any help. I have a Dual Quad 427 that produces about 600 HP. I have the factory 24" radiator with a 3 row core, shroud, and C6OE-F fan and Thermostatic clutch. Edelbrock water pump. I am using the Stewart EMP 180 thermostat. It doesn't overheat even in 100 degree weather and stop light hopping. I drive spirited but I am not driving at the strip. The temperature comes up a bit right after I get off the freeway then quickly settles back down about 10 minutes. I don't have air conditioning.. Yet. I'm restoring an original ford unit. I don't know what to expect, especially with the inboard headlamps after I install the condenser. It seems to maintain quite well being run as designed.
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>Cooling in these Mustang has always been a challenge with high horsepower engines.
True that. You can fit a 19" tall aftermarket unit in a 69/70 but the width is a challenge. The 31" wide unit I have drops in my Falcon easy and clears the side rails. Just trimmed the core support a bit to match the core width. Not so much room in a Mustang. The 70 had a 26" wide unit, IIRC. That and a couple of cheap eBay 12" fans on a formed shroud with a Flowkooler pump and the bitty Moroso drive motor was good enough at the drag strip. The car would stage at 180 and come back from an 1/8 mile pass at 200~210 then cool down in just a couple of minutes.
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>Cooling in these Mustang has always been a challenge with high horsepower engines.
True that. You can fit a 19" tall aftermarket unit in a 69/70 but the width is a challenge. The 31" wide unit I have drops in my Falcon easy and clears the side rails. Just trimmed the core support a bit to match the core width. Not so much room in a Mustang. The 70 had a 26" wide unit, IIRC. That and a couple of cheap eBay 12" fans on a formed shroud with a Flowkooler pump and the bitty Moroso drive motor was good enough at the drag strip. The car would stage at 180 and come back from an 1/8 mile pass at 200~210 then cool down in just a couple of minutes.
As for the core, there are no 26" cores in 67-70 FE or AC cars. The original 67 core is actually 23" and the 68-on is a 24" core. No one is reproducing the 67 core so it forces a change to the 68 radiator and a change in bottom mounts. I agree with you, managing heat in many hot climates is difficult.
Not everyone is drag racing or is going to cut up a car for cooling. Especially original FE cars or Shelbys. The cars didn't overheat new. So there has to be a formula here to resolve the issue.
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Not everyone is drag racing or is going to cut up a car for cooling. Especially original FE cars or Shelbys. The cars didn't overheat new. So there has to be a formula here to resolve the issue.
Out of the factory, they were pretty conservative engines compared to what most people do today. Everybody wants to squeeze horsepower out of a big block, and horsepower=energy=heat. Still, I agree there is a formula for beating it.
There's plenty of room in a Mustang for a much wider radiator, but you do have to cut the support area up, and most people (me included) won't go to that extreme. I have a stock type brass radiator, edel pump, 180 thermostat with a flex wide blade fan and factory shroud. 500hp 427 in a Mach 1 with no scoop. It's never overheated, but when I got stuck in traffic on a 90* day during Drag Week, it did go up to 210*. I was about to pull over because I admit it was making me nervous, but that was when the traffic started to flow and the temp dropped immediately. It usually never goes over 200*, or 190+ at speed.
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>Not everyone is drag racing or is going to cut up a car for cooling. Especially original FE cars or Shelbys. The cars didn't overheat new. So there has to be a formula here to resolve the issue.
300HP = 150 lbs/hr = 22 gallon/hr x 114,000 BTU/gallon = 2,514,612 BTU/hr x .333 (about 1/3 lost into the cooling system) = result 837,366 BTU/Hr that the cooling system has to disperse. Even at 100 HP that' figures to 279,132 BTU/Hr. Over bores allow more heat from combustion into the water jackets, higher compression + more timing equal more heat, etc.
A 2000 sq/ft house in Houston, single story, average insulation, summer needs about 57,300 BTU/Hr cooling.
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I saw an evaluation of the power needed in a test car while running a ten mile loop while being evaluated. As I remember, an ordinary car, at about 65 MPH, takes about 50-60 horsepower to keep it at speed on a level road in regular conditions. Almost anything beyond that is simply excess that is available to make the car accelerate. FWIW
KS
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I am joining the choir thinking the thick 4 core is certainly part of the issue.
I have never had an overheating problem.
I am using the factory stock 390 2V radiator in my 68 Galaxie.
The engine is now a 501" BBF over 700 hp.
Mechanical Flex fan used.
Street cruising the temperature stays at 185 on cooler days (75F) 190 when 80.
In a hotter climate perhaps I would have an issue?
Perhaps it may be worthwhile to find a stocker rad and experiment a little.
Good luck!!
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Does the fan shroud block air flow when going down the road? I never understood those shrouds that are just about flat over the back of the radiator.
Anyone who thinks you can improve cooling by slowing down the water flow needs to move into the 21st century. That old wives tale was scientifically disproven years ago. If that theory were true, then you could also improve cooling by slowing down air flow, so the air would have more time to absorb the heat. So try running your fans on 6 volts to cool your engine better.
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Does the fan shroud block air flow when going down the road? I never understood those shrouds that are just about flat over the back of the radiator.
Anyone who thinks you can improve cooling by slowing down the water flow needs to move into the 21st century. That old wives tale was scientifically disproven years ago. If that theory were true, then you could also improve cooling by slowing down air flow, so the air would have more time to absorb the heat. So try running your fans on 6 volts to cool your engine better.
Agree 100% and give you a big AMEN...however, restrictors on the outlet side can be useful for different reasons, depends on the system, but can force water in a better path through the block minimizing hot spots, and in some cases, reportedly will stop intermittent pump cavitation.
I am not sure I buy it as much as I used to, seems that the heads would provide plenty of restriction to maintain water pump head pressure, but I have seen Rat Chevies act funky in Las Vegas heat with no thermostat in them, then work perfectly well with a restrictor or thermostat, but as you said, it's got nothing to do with speed of the water through the radiator.
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All good points. I think I will add a spring in the lower hose. I'm not going back to a mechanical fan again so maybe better fans. Worse comes to worse a bigger radiator. I would just like to get it right. I never believed the to cold of a thermostat thing 180 160 same thing in my book.
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All good points. I think I will add a spring in the lower hose. I'm not going back to a mechanical fan again so maybe better fans. Worse comes to worse a bigger radiator. I would just like to get it right. I never believed the to cold of a thermostat thing 180 160 same thing in my book.
I hope the spring helps,it cured mine and i had the same symptoms as you.like i said my 4 core rad heats up in less than 5 minutes,maybe quicker,and thermostat kicks in ,and it goes straight to 180. 190 at a long red light.sounds like normal operation to me. GOOD LUCK,i hope that spring helps you too.
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It’s the fan shroud.......
I had the SAME problem with those fans .
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the fans will come with a new shroud of course .I think I will go with the Spal fans I need to figure that out yet I wonder if I drill Large holes in the shroud as a test and take it on the highway will it prove anything.
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As a test, you could just completely remove the shroud and then drive it down the highway and see how it does.
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Does the fan shroud block air flow when going down the road? I never understood those shrouds that are just about flat over the back of the radiator.
Anyone who thinks you can improve cooling by slowing down the water flow needs to move into the 21st century. That old wives tale was scientifically disproven years ago. If that theory were true, then you could also improve cooling by slowing down air flow, so the air would have more time to absorb the heat. So try running your fans on 6 volts to cool your engine better.
I suspect HemiJoel is right on both counts here:
* It cools fine at idle, heats up at speed = = airflow problem. Ditch the shroud / e-fans & just try no fan or a clutch fan, or even a fixed-blade, see if it cools better on the freeway.
* I think the Urban Legend about "you have to flow the water slower to give it time to cool" started from the Often-True Fact that when you take the thermostat OUT, the engine heats up more. Conclusion - more water flow is bad. But that's not what's happening. When you take the thermostat out, you de-pressure the block, causing steam hot-spots that run away & boil the water & overheat. More water flow is better, but you have to keep pressure in the block, so you want a choke point (the thermostat) right at the block exit. I find the best cooling of all is with a thermostat with the center cut out. Lots of flow, but a restriction ring to keep the block pressured.
BTW sixty9, do those Magnafows sound like good old glasspacks? Seems that's how theyre built so I wondered.
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Harry, have you mathed out your WP pulley time crank pulley ratio? A cheap experiment would be to get that ratio to 1.25/1 or better. I agree on the idea that maybe what you have in front of the engine might be hurting you. Also agree with Ross that 215 is not the end of the world though I don’t feel comfortable seeing that on the gauge myself.
Someone mentioned a CVF wp pulley. I have one on the shelf. I can send it to you if you want to try it. It’s tiny, 5.4” O.D.
Email me
jwysocki@charter.net
or text 41 three/six 95-3one03
JB
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Does the fan shroud block air flow when going down the road? I never understood those shrouds that are just about flat over the back of the radiator.
Anyone who thinks you can improve cooling by slowing down the water flow needs to move into the 21st century. That old wives tale was scientifically disproven years ago. If that theory were true, then you could also improve cooling by slowing down air flow, so the air would have more time to absorb the heat. So try running your fans on 6 volts to cool your engine better.
I suspect HemiJoel is right on both counts here:
* It cools fine at idle, heats up at speed = = airflow problem. Ditch the shroud / e-fans & just try no fan or a clutch fan, or even a fixed-blade, see if it cools better on the freeway.
* I think the Urban Legend about "you have to flow the water slower to give it time to cool" started from the Often-True Fact that when you take the thermostat OUT, the engine heats up more. Conclusion - more water flow is bad. But that's not what's happening. When you take the thermostat out, you de-pressure the block, causing steam hot-spots that run away & boil the water & overheat. More water flow is better, but you have to keep pressure in the block, so you want a choke point (the thermostat) right at the block exit. I find the best cooling of all is with a thermostat with the center cut out. Lots of flow, but a restriction ring to keep the block pressured.
BTW sixty9, do those Magnafows sound like good old glasspacks? Seems that's how theyre built so I wondered.
Right Werby! I was going to post the same info but you said it better. Running virtually any engine w/o a thermostat or a sized plate that restricts the water flow is foolish. It's not the speed of the coolant but the need for some back pressure to cool hot spots in the heads, block, etc. Without some pressure, voids appear near some critical hot spots like those near the exhaust ports. In fact, roundy-round racers and other competitors do run various sizes of plates in lieu of a street type thermostat for that very reason.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63440?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2KXS0f-z6gIVSrzACh1I5Q7DEAQYASABEgJd6fD_BwE
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I thought about removing the shroud as a test. I am only 2 blocks from a long road where I test my car lol 3 miles with no intersections, yes even in NY lol. I have no idea what the pulley ratio is but been running this combo since I was 16 that's more than 45 yrs. Only in the last 5 or so have I notice the high temps. I just usually avoid hot days or bite my tongue.
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I agree with Werby and Macho on the pressure, plus there is one more factor. As stated, the water pump builds pressure against the restriction of the thermostat. Back in the old days of top tank radiators, low pressure caps, and no radiator overflow recovery system, if guys removed the thermostat, what was the next restriction? It was the radiator core. So at higher RPM, the pump is building enough pressure in the top tank of the radiator to push some of the coolant past the pressure cap. Less coolant = higher temps = the old, erroneous theory.
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
I see it!!
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
You're just being ignored..lol ;)
Good advice though. Power Tour and Drag Week will weed out any cooling issues in a HURRY.
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
You're just being ignored..lol ;)
Good advice though. Power Tour and Drag Week will weed out any cooling issues in a HURRY.
well a least somebody said it,thanks.
BTW the fan shroud needs some vent flaps the air is packing up inside it,the 2 fan holes are not big enough to let the air out.
Today I was in a parade ,rolling at about 5mph, 210deg 98f air temp.
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For testing purposes and arguments sake, I would like to see a vacuum advance distributor. That made more difference than anything on my car. 69 Mach 1 428 CJ stroked to 447. Steve
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I thought about removing the shroud as a test. I am only 2 blocks from a long road where I test my car lol 3 miles with no intersections, yes even in NY lol. I have no idea what the pulley ratio is but been running this combo since I was 16 that's more than 45 yrs. Only in the last 5 or so have I notice the high temps. I just usually avoid hot days or bite my tongue.
I own a home up the Watkins Glen area. No shortage of open road and straight stretches. I haven't taken my Shelby up yet but I fear the deer!
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Somebody please reply to this post, my reply’s here must not be showing up.
Seriously let me know if you see this.
I get it loose the shroud, still looking at options.
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I have an update ordered the spring for the lower hose. I took the Focus fans out and installed my old stainless steel flex fan no shroud. Drove around last night never came off 160 degrees. I could feel the hot air coming out of the floor vents definitely moves a lot more air.. Cyclone03 was right. Ive been looking for shroud that holds two fans that will fit this radiator not much made. Maybe ill go back to a clutch fan. Its supposed to be in the mid 90s this weekend stay tuned.
Harry
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Wow Harry thats great. It was cool last night but staying at 160 is very cool. This weekend will be a good test 90 and gross out. Its funny you try to make upgrades to electric fans and putting a engine fan is the ticket. Of course the shroud was a big part of it but still.
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Our problem that small block guys don’t have it the lack of clearance between the water pump and radiator. It’s hard to find electric fans that move enough air and fit. I have a nice 18” electric that moves air like a hurricane but I can’t make it fit. Do some math a figure out a fan combo that covers the most area of the radiator and clears the pump. I’m running twin 11” fans,with the AC on it runs at 220 parked in traffic,last Saturday 97* here in San Antonio. Rolling at 45 the temp dropped to 195 in about 3 miles. No shroud. I ran a 6 blade solid fan, sounded like a turbine lost noticeable throttle response but temp parked on 190 with ac on . I tried a clutch fan,that honestly is the best set up , but finding the right clutch and fans and shroud can be a challenge. Something to remember is these cars where designed to drive in many conditions including very hot desert conditions ,tough to beat a heavy duty stock set up.
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I thought I was making a good improvement with the aluminum rad and the electric fans. To bad I didn't notice the difference sooner and again you were right. Supposed to be in the 90s this weekend will be a good test. If it stays cool Ill put a 180 stat in. I don't have the shroud it broke while stored in my basement. What is the diameter of a mustang big block fan?
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Clutch fan is 18 1/4”
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I thought I was making a good improvement with the aluminum rad and the electric fans. To bad I didn't notice the difference sooner and again you were right. Supposed to be in the 90s this weekend will be a good test. If it stays cool Ill put a 180 stat in. I don't have the shroud it broke while stored in my basement. What is the diameter of a mustang big block fan?
Whether it was a waste of money or not to go with the electric, the news that it was something simple is good. I ended up going with e Flexalite 5555 clutch and their biggest fan that would fit. It keeps my 489 cool, even when I was in Las Vegas and my car has an A/C condenser up front.
I don't have mine here to measure, maybe poke around the 428Cobrajet.org forum?
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Hi Guys another update 90 degrees here on Saturday went for a fairly long ride never went over 180 degrees. I guess the next step is to get a shroud and a clutch fan. I can say I can feel the hot air coming in the floor vents I didn't feel that with the electric fans. I definitely feel the horsepower difference with my butt meter not huge but I do notice it.