FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: BattlestarGalactic on July 16, 2019, 02:40:03 PM
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(https://i.postimg.cc/zvBGdQk5/IMG-20190716-144734492.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXK24z7w/IMG-20190716-145745527.jpg)
I got the old 428 torn down. The 4.25 crank will be checked out and fitted to the new block.
I have 4.310 flat tops coming from JE Pistons. Should put me about 12.7:1 compression. (I want to run 110 oct fuel. Don't want to deal with $12/gal fuel)
Reusing my rods.
The camshaft is yet to be determined. I was going to run my old .63 lift flat tappet, but I bought some of those fancy Nascar diamond coated lifters, so I'm going to look at increasing the camshaft a bit.
The heads are going to Fox Lake for a CNC job. They were hand worked back in 1996 when I bought them new. They flowed 280I/220E, which was fine but going with another increase in CI, I think I could use some more wind.
The old motor (462) made 625 @ 6500 rpm with 600 ft/lb at 4000 rpm. No real idea what it will make now. Not really shooting for any specific number. I am just letting it fall where it may. I'm working on deals to make improvements. So far, so good.
My original block could be fixed(just needs a sleeve), but I just said "what the hell" and decided to live it up a bit. Hope to have it together by end of August(maybe earlier depending on piston arrival).
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That’s just a beautiful thing Larry.
Good luck on your build.
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Looks like your going to have to raise that rear bumper to keep it from dragging
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Boy am I jealous Larry. I waited for 6 months when I ordered a Bear Block. Never did get it. I bought a used marine block from Carls. I started getting it prepped last November and I still have to get Head gaskets. Its assembled on the lower end and I mocked the heads, Jays manifold adapter and my tunnel ram on the engine. Still have some misc. (new carb) stuff to do before putting it in the 63. The way the summers going it will be Oct be fore I can pull the old 427 out and install the new one. Good Luck!
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Nice! I'd venture approx. 675 hp, 620 on torque.
Btw, what does 110 octane cost in your area?
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If your lifters are DLC coated, they are for a steel core camshaft.
With that being said, you will need quite a bit more duration since you're adding about 30 cubes to the mix. The LSA will need to be changed as well.
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Nice! I'd venture approx. 675 hp, 620 on torque.
Btw, what does 110 octane cost in your area?
IIRC, it was $7.75/gal last spring. I fill my 55 gal drum up and I'm good for the summer.
Boy am I jealous Larry. I waited for 6 months when I ordered a Bear Block. Never did get it.
Got lucky I suppose. Didn't really want to do all this, but figured WTH? The block was available, so I took the plunge.
If your lifters are DLC coated, they are for a steel core camshaft.
With that being said, you will need quite a bit more duration since you're adding about 30 cubes to the mix. The LSA will need to be changed as well.
I ran the same small cam when I put the 4.25 crank in my 428. I didn't really want to blow the budget(more) back then with heads and cam change. It's ran well, but I know I left a ton of power on the table....just like this time around. Whatever it makes, it makes.
With some deals worked out, the CNC work is possible. The cam change will definitely help, but will be much cheaper this way then a roller set up. That is something I can do later, maybe. I'm not about making "the most power". I'm a bracket racer that doesn't want to work on it every weekend. Put a number on it and run. I literally haven't had the valve covers off for 3 years. That is the kind of maintenance I like. Check the oil, put air in the tires, gas in the tank and GO!
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I use a lot of flat tappets. They are cost effective for a lot of engines.
Your DLC coated lifters are only for alloy steel and tool steel cores though. They won't work on a regular cast iron core flat tappet camshaft. Steel flat tappet camshafts are $$$$$.
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+1 on the steel cam core being needed. DLC coated lifters are not compatible with cast iron ( very porus) cam cores . Nascar teams had the steel cams "superfinished" for smoother surfaces.
Just trying to save you an expensive repair Larry.
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Thanks guys. I'm getting conflicting reports on the whole issue, though the more I read it appears to be a problem I don't want to deal with. I want dead on reliable. Not "well, it should be okay"!
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Hey Hey, I like the looks of that block! I thought you might go that direction when I saw you had a block issue............ I think I'd want to just leave the block sitting around in my living room for several weeks so I could admire it before starting the new build.
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Well, just going to have to look at pictures of it. It's at the shop, I was grinding on it Saturday, deburring and chamfering and stuff. Baby steps.....
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Hi Larry,
Just curious what clutch set up you are running?
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Thanks guys. I'm getting conflicting reports on the whole issue, though the more I read it appears to be a problem I don't want to deal with. I want dead on reliable. Not "well, it should be okay"!
Tool steel on cast iron flat tappet is done all the time. DLC coated stuff is the catch. Doable, but would need an $800 cam.
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Brent, that is what I'm reading right from the Trend website. Uncoated is okay, Coated not so much.
Dennis, I'm running a "soft lok" style clutch. You can buy them from various people(like McCleod). Mine was custom done locally from a RAM unit I ran for years. They aren't really cheap to buy it outright the first time, but you can find rebuilt units. It is still a 11" pressure ring, but a 10.5" disc.
Contact Chris Hyatt: 440-477-4053. He is local to me and does great work. He might have connections to find a used unit. His dad owned Hyatt Racing Services and took over the clutch work when his father, Tim, passed a few years back.
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Brent, that is what I'm reading right from the Trend website. Uncoated is okay, Coated not so much.
Dennis, I'm running a "soft lok" style clutch. You can buy them from various people(like McCleod). Mine was custom done locally from a RAM unit I ran for years. They aren't really cheap to buy it outright the first time, but you can find rebuilt units. It is still a 11" pressure ring, but a 10.5" disc.
Contact Chris Hyatt: 440-477-4053. He is local to me and does great work. He might have connections to find a used unit. His dad owned Hyatt Racing Services and took over the clutch work when his father, Tim, passed a few years back.
Thanks Larry
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Dennis, if you ever need to talk clutch, I'll be glad to help however I can.
Well, pistons are here. Did a quick weight check and they are too dead on from my previous pistons that a balance is not needed.
The heads went off to Fox Lake. What I'm getting is they will be in the 360 range when done. About 60 increase from before when they were only hand ported back when I purchased them.
We're going to up the camshaft just slightly, just to help but not increase my RPM band horribly. I don't want to turn this over 6500. That was peak HP on the 462ci.
They are fitting clearances Clarence, roger Roger, what's our vector Victor....................oh, um, okay, back on track ;D
Crank and rods getting magged.
I'll finish up some block detailing this weekend. Then fit rings, etc, etc, etc. I have high hopes for it to be together by mid August.
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Looks good, be careful on the cam, 60 cfm will drive the peak up quite a bit on its own
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Ya, we're not going much. Few degrees, few thousandths.
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Small steps. Getting the bores opened up. Final finish will be with a deck plate.
After asking why he is honing it instead of boring it? It is easier to just let the hone work on it unattended for a few hours then have to watch over a boring machine. We're only going .060.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qRC2161d/IMG-20190729-173506554.jpg)
Head work is in process.
Cam is getting final review today before ordering. Not really concerned about going bigger. We are just keeping the old cam/lifters for the old block since they are worn in for the last 19 years. No sense in creating issues with changing blocks and new wear patterns.
I'll be file fitting rings Saturday, along with some final prep work on the block so I can start washing it.
The shop is working hard at keeping it moving for me to try to get me out as quick as possible. 30 years of doing business has its benefits.
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Hey Larry and guys, what tool are you using to remove and tighten the block plugs?
BTW your machine shop is on the ball, as far as getting to it. Cool.
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Not sure what tool have to get plugs in/out? Gunno be a bigun....
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Pressure test that block before you do too much on it. Not insinuating anything, but it's an aftermarket block....
I use a bolt head that fits the plug with a nut welded on it to tighten the freeze plugs.
Check the top left oil filter mount bolt hole. It's often a drill-through and it intersects the main oil galley running down the side of the block.
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You meant .006” right?
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Yes, it will get pressure checked. The shop has built a few BBM motors lately so they know to check everything. There is another BBM block sitting there that was pressure checked already.
Yes, '060. I'm going 4.310. I typically don't waste bore, but there is still plenty for another freshen up in 5-10 yrs if need be. If I was 25 yrs younger I might be concerned. Now, not so much.
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Well, some progress on it.
I spent Saturday morning deburring(still), I took Monday off for other reasons, but went down Monday afternoon to do more work. Pressure checked it and file fit the rings.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2v7X30j/IMG-20190803-114616243.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjFsYG7c/IMG-20190805-143957620.jpg)
The heads are back from CNC work. We're upgrading the intakes from 2.15 to 2.25 since I've got the bore size to fit it now. Getting some blend work done this week, hope to maybe throw one on the flow bench to see what improvements it made. They were flowed back in '98, we talked that we should have put them on their bench before cutting them to get a new baseline using their machine. Hindsight, though not really a big deal. Whatever it is, it is.
The cam is on the way. Took a few degrees of out of it and added about .03 lift which should keep my peak RPM down where I want it. It's a bracket car, I don't want to spin it hard. It's not about being the fastest(remember it's 4000 lbs).
I weighed my existing 1973 428 service block that is 3/4 filled. Right at 220#. The new BBM block is 230#(same scale), so I'm not really added a bunch of weight like some had contemplated.
Hope to have the crank back this week to check clearances. Then check deck. With any luck I might be able to wash the block up this weekend?
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Remember when comparing a "filled" block to an unfilled one, that the unfilled block will still get filled when operating - with coolant at +/8 lbs per gallon
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Yes. I'm just showing that my filled block is likely much heavier then just a water filled one. The new block is heavier overall, but I'm not added as much since mine is full of concrete.
Maybe I'll grab my other old 428 block(or 352 for that matter) and weigh it to get a better grasp of how much heavier a BBM is from a stock block.
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Curious why folks are concerned with boring the BBM to 4.310" since it is supposed to be safe to 4.440"and have .200-.250" walls? Anyone actually bored one past 4.375" yet? Joe-JDC
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I forgot to Sonic it. Maybe this weekend? I'd just like to know.
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Curious why folks are concerned with boring the BBM to 4.310" since it is supposed to be safe to 4.440"and have .200-.250" walls? Anyone actually bored one past 4.375" yet? Joe-JDC
No problems going to 4.310-4.375". I've done quite a few like that but would hesitate to go any further because I think you'd have head gasket constraints.
My response to Larry was due to that they were *honing* .060" out. I don't know of anyone who would do it that way as a hone just follows the hole that's there, not to mention that it would take forever to do so. A modern boring bar that bores on blueprinted centers would make very quick work of opening a block up .055" and then you hone the other .005".
Not being critical of anyone, just couldn't wrap my mind around that thought, combined with Larry's comments about not wanting to spend time on a boring bar, but leaving a hone unattended. I'm sure there's something lost between the translation of Larry's typing and my goofy brain.
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Quite a few shops around here use the hone to "bore" the block as long as the holes are in the correct spot to start with.
It isn't always a good solution, but when it's reasonable to do so, it saves a lot of hassle. Especially if you are using an old school boring bar.
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Well, the block is washed up, cam bearings installed, ready for some assembly this week. Cam is only thing left waiting on besides getting the heads put back together. Time will tell this week how it goes. I'm hoping for dyno time by Labor day weekend? In hopes I can have it in the car before Sept 7th race. It's doable, but going to creep up fast. I'm having the shop do the assembly, I can't get enough time in to do it myself, unlike during winter time and having 6 months to poke at it every Saturday.
I forgot to sonic check the bores. Might get time to check them.
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Found out last night..........my cam showed up the other day. Great? Not so much. Seems Comp ground my profile on a 460 core!! Doh!! They traced it down to some clown picked up the wrong core and ground it knowing it was the wrong one. Ugh. They said they would rectify the situation quickly. Hope to still have a cam by the weekend? Or Monday. Will determine what I can do with it this weekend. Time will tell.
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Dont want to sound dumb, how did you know. I would assume it has different journal sizes
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An FE cam has a tapered cone at the rear cam journal. I'm familiar with that. Apparently most other cams don't. The shop opened the box and quickly realized the problem.
Once the shop called Comp they checked their records and it was noted what core was used(the wrong one), even though all the paperwork they had said "FE" on it. Someone got lazy/stupid grabbed the wrong one and even marked as such on their paperwork. Why? Some things the world will never know. At least they admitted it and jumped hoops to take care of it.
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THAT guy is the reason for degreeing every cam. :o
I'm loving the updates and can't wait to see/hear the results. Thank you for posting your progress.
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Hope you get it soon, thanks for the explenation. What about the grooves on 2nd and 4th journal.
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Good luck with the new combo Larry.
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You are right Larry , the 429-460 engines have all common size cam bearing journals.
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Hope you get it soon, thanks for the explenation. What about the grooves on 2nd and 4th journal.
That too.
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More work done Saturday.
What the new ports look like with the 2.25 intake valves(old was 2.15):
(https://i.postimg.cc/SxCfzQLL/IMG-20190817-081349679-HDR.jpg)
Flow bench
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5dH9zpv/IMG-20190817-093047478.jpg)
With just hand work they went 280/220. Now they are 320/240. That is in line with what Edelbrock was doing with them back in 97 when I bought them. They sent me flow sheets and info on what they had tried to get from them. I'm not worried about it being a Max effort build. Just adding some improvements as I can.
Crank installed:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKhYTfBK/IMG-20190817-091001330.jpg)
Degreeing the cam:. Old cam was .63 lift, now .66. I forgot to check new duration numbers but I know it was reduced a few numbers to keep the peak rpm down.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZK9c4xCM/IMG-20190817-134334686.jpg)
Check valve clearances. Need to move pockets slightly, though they are deep enough.
Should be able to button it up next week.
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Looks nice, should be breathing deep with the head work!
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Nice head pics and even better flow numbers. ;D
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Weekend update. It's complete, ready for Dyno this week.
(https://i.postimg.cc/13p41CJp/IMG-20190823-131816305.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqTJXWR0/IMG-20190823-141007499.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHNXqgCY/IMG-20190823-153710551.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgxhqfNL/IMG-20190824-112255824.jpg)
Sorry cam card is sideways. Didn't go through the hoops to rotate it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jqFDHJDJ/IMG-20190823-151055518.jpg)
Flow numbers:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKfvdKB3/IMG-20190824-114839904.jpg)
Up 40 int/20 exh.
12.5/1 comp. Going to try my 1850 Holleys. I have my 780 single feed conversions to try also.
Any armchair Dyno numbers from anyone??
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604,3 ;D
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We had CLOSE to this same combo in the '64 drag car, never dyno'd it, but based on track times we estimated it at 640-650hp. The heads were "Keith Craft Stage II". I wouldn't be surprised if it was in that same ballpark.
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604?
The old motor made 625, hope to do better?
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649 hp
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670 hp
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660 @ 6500.
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655 @6400 rpm. Jim
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Getting bolted on tomorrow or Wednesday. will start it Thursday morning.
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Boy Larry, I wish I could get things done as fast as you do.
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Good friends, lots of luck. The shop really worked hard at squeezing it through the cracks for me. That's 30 years of dealing with the same people!
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I'll still say 675 on the HP questimate
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667@6400. Does the closest guess get anything? I'd be happy with a ride in the ol wagon. A big ass wheelie would be mandatory. :)
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How about 666 Hp @ 6666 and we can call it the HELLWAGON.
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LOFrigginL
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Well, its got oil pressure and making sweet music! Few break in cycles, change springs after lunch and make some pulls.
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Fought through some carb issue yesterday. Front carb was not moving much fuel. Seems i needed to play with float arm to get enough travel and shut off. Seems fine now, but now needs some jetting. Its up through mid range, just need to get peak numbers up. Baby steps.
I know the old motor had flow rate differences between carbs. We think the tunnelwedge is the problem. Pulsing between carbs. Anyone with input on that?
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With the pulsing issue....
Are those four hole spacers? Have you tried other spacer?
Have you pin gauged the high speed air bleeds?
I’ve seen 1850’s vary from .028-.033 would seem to make a difference.
Is the pulsing any time the boosters flow or just at a certain rpm?
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It looks like two different carb bodies in the picture, and a 1" spacer. What is the spacer? When I raced my tunnel wedge, I used a two inch spacer and mounted the carbs forward. That gave me room for the distributor, and better carb selection. I never had an issue with pulsations using 600s, 660s, or 750s. I finally settled on the 660s due to better launch control.
I would try a 1" super sucker type under those carbs if you have them. Joe-JDC
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Good eye Joe. Early and late main bodies.
The earlier one will have an emulsion tube in the metering block and have smaller air bleeds.
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We actually blueprinted them 6 years ago. Used brass set screws and drilled them to get them both the same everywhere.
I have 1" open hole phenolic spacers.
The fuel rate has a dip through mid range in front carb. Rear carb stays pretty even linear.
The front carb is 1850 -2, rear is -4.
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My guess Joe is that 2" spacer really gave it some volume to play with.
We have it closing in. Open secondary jet, decrease primary jets. Smoothed the power and a/f throughout the rpm. Just opened hs air bleed .001 to .032 and it liked it. We dropped timing 2, didnt like it, back to 40. We will do air bleeds tomorrow.
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We actually blueprinted them 6 years ago. Used brass set screws and drilled them to get them both the same everywhere.
Not to keep nagging on it.... so you removed the emulsion tube from the -2? Did you plug the air feed for it in the upper dogleg?
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Keep nagging! You are one of the biggest carb gurus I know. I'm only into basics101. Fuel goes in here, air comes in there kinda thing. The shop I use is good, but they don't know everything. I run a real old setup and they are not well versed and we did what we could with the knowledge we had. Throw a single carb and they can dial it in. With only one flow meter per carb you can't really tell which end is doing what. We were just guessing.
6 years ago the local roundy round carb guru helped get the two set as close as possible. One was eating more fuel than the other, like now. We blueprinted the air bleeds, compared metering plates,etc to get them as close as possible.
We knew they were different body numbers, but didn't know the differences.
Through jetting and drilling the secondary plates, we were able to flatten the a/f curve. It pulls the same through the entire rpm band. Though the front carb(-2) still does not use the same amount of fuel as the back(-4). The front carb fluctuates slightly about 5k rpm. Then recovers flow rate again. The rear pulls smoothly up through. We just figure that is from the design of the intake.
The HP curve has a slight dip, about the same rpm as that front carb drops. Don't have those sheets in front of me to confirm. I'll take any input I can get. I don't plan on making any changes, I'm just going to run it for now. It's been that way for 6 years, and has run great overall.
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What’s the power so far?
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I was not really expecting a big jump and it didn't. Though I'll agree(along with shop) that we did kinda think it would be maybe 40 hp.
The new motor had about 20 more HP starting about 5K, but 6500 was only up about 10 HP.
The conversation went towards the cam choice. I specifically stated I did not want to turn it harder then 6500 rpm. It's a bracket car, I want a solid, bracket car motor. I don't want to deal with higher rpm and the issues that come with running it that hard for years. Am I being a bit too conservative? Maybe, but I am one of the very rare racers that isn't born with the "I gotta go faster" gene. The shop talked with Comp about what I wanted and they hit it on the head. Is this motor an over achiever when it comes to HP? No, the shop agrees it is not quite an optimal build. We adjusted timing and fuel til it just repeated a good number. It still has a dip in the power curve(is that from the front carb?), but the a/f is near a dead straight line. We didn't want to lean it out much more because it's summer and in the fall we wanted it to still be in a safe zone.
I could have just sleeved the old block and ran it for years longer. But, I've always wanted a new block and the situation came upon to do it. Now I have a solid foundation "IF" and "WHEN" I decide to go ahead and start making more HP.
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Did you try both sets of your carbs? Seems to me there may be more there.
How about torque, did it go way up? If torque skyrocketed with inches and airflow, then I would blame the power numbers on too small of a cam, but if it is 20 hp more at the shift recovery, it should be quicker
Any wiggle on the curve that may indicate valve float?
FWIW, one of my close buddies has a rectangular port 460 inch Rat motor, single plane, Dominator, similar head flow, similar cam, and similar power but at a little higher RPM.
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Two things come to mind, the timing and flow numbers on the reworked heads. It is a bit odd that the aluminum Edelbrock heads wanted 40* timing, and if the flow went from 280 to 320, then there should have been a definite increase of horsepower on the order of 40-50 hp. What was the airflow at your camshaft lift? Joe-JDC
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I agree on the timing.
Also keep in mind that he added a lot of displacement.
Camshaft duration or head flow increase is necessary to offset a displacement change. I think the head work made the hp change but the camshaft is just small for an engine that’s almost 500 cubes. I understand that high rpm was not a goal, but in the overall scheme of things, that’s a small camshaft. A lot more overlap is necessary. Also if you look at the rule of thumb of 2 hp per cfm, he’s pretty much there.
I’m not being critical. He had a goal and he met the goal.
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BTW, those lobes are Comp XX lobes and are very aggressive. I hope you’re using EDM lifters that oil. Valve spring pressure requirements would be high as well. Sure you’re not getting into any valve float issues?
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Not denigrating the build, either, but all things being equal, the first engine made 1.35 hp/ci, and the 496 would come in at 670 with the same hp/ci. Better heads, bigger cam, more cubic inches, and less hp/ci? You may be on to something with valve springs giving up early. The timing is a bit worrisome, though. I just want the best for him with the new build. Joe-JDC
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I think everyone is doing the same Joe.
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That intake lobe is super aggressive. The exhaust lobe, not so much. The intake lobe is asymmetrical, opening the valve super fast, then setting it down gently. The exhaust lobe is symmetrical and isn't as rough as the intake valve. You'd need a lot of open pressure on the intake side and a lot of closed pressure on both valves to make sure they don't float.
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I hadn't gone through the lobe choice but did this morning. I bet you are losing control of the intake, the exhaust is a quite a bit more controllable, and pieces are likely lighter. If you have the dyno information it would be usable.
Always easy to armchair quarterback, and only meant to be helpful, but I think something like a Comp Hi-tech intake lobe at 300/262 and spreading the centers to keep overlap where you are now would have let it hold on longer.
For that matter, if your old cam was close, rocking centerline back might have even let it hang in there. That is assuming the heavy intake side is losing control. Seems logical though with the XX intake lobe and a relatively heavy FE valvetrain.
My gut tells me though, don't just run it until you figure out if it is floating, that's pretty rough on parts. Maybe a little spring pressure, maybe a cam swap, maybe a spring swap, lots of options
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Ok, here's a little update. The springs are more then adequate for the cam, I confirmed that.
I raced it today. HP numbers aren't everything. First pass out it went 10.69 @ 124 mph. Yes, 3 tenths faster and 2 mph. Ran like a swiss watch, no issues. I made 2 TT and went 4 rounds(semi finals). The 60 ft is 1.40, which is .1 faster then its best ever. I'm sure there is more in it with some chassis tuning. The added power at the 5K range really takes it out harder then ever before( had to lower/tighten wheelie bars because it was really standing up). I typically leave at 5K, so that works perfect. Though everyone asks what I leave at because they think it's 6500 or higher!!! With no two step, its just up there and sounds much worse then it is.
I still shift at 6500, though one pass I did stretch it up near 7K because I knew I was a bit late and was trying to make up some ground. I did win, as I finally got to play the "faster" car and pushed my opponent .02 under!!
Overall a great day. Engine is happy. No noises, oil is clean. Can't wait for 2 weeks for next race. I'm back with a vengeance and had quite the cheering section(like usual).
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Glad you had a great day at the races.
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Ok, here's a little update. The springs are more then adequate for the cam, I confirmed that.
I raced it today. HP numbers aren't everything. First pass out it went 10.69 @ 124 mph. Yes, 3 tenths faster and 2 mph. Ran like a swiss watch, no issues. I made 2 TT and went 4 rounds(semi finals). The 60 ft is 1.40, which is .1 faster then its best ever. I'm sure there is more in it with some chassis tuning. The added power at the 5K range really takes it out harder then ever before( had to lower/tighten wheelie bars because it was really standing up). I typically leave at 5K, so that works perfect. Though everyone asks what I leave at because they think it's 6500 or higher!!! With no two step, its just up there and sounds much worse then it is.
I still shift at 6500, though one pass I did stretch it up near 7K because I knew I was a bit late and was trying to make up some ground. I did win, as I finally got to play the "faster" car and pushed my opponent .02 under!!
Overall a great day. Engine is happy. No noises, oil is clean. Can't wait for 2 weeks for next race. I'm back with a vengeance and had quite the cheering section(like usual).
That's awesome, goes to show you that the combo matters, sounds like you have a good match to planned use
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Excellent Larry it’s great when a plan comes together. I agree you can dyno all you want, the track doesn’t lie. ;)
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Congrats Larry.
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Excellent Larry it’s great when a plan comes together. I agree you can dyno all you want, the track doesn’t lie. ;)
Yes. Was originally kinda bummed last weekend but knew the track would tell the story. That is why I was slow in updating this post.
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You could probably play around on the Wallace calculator and figure out how much horsepower it would take to gain 3 tenths of a second. What was your fastest time and MPH and weight of your car with the previous motor. Even if the horsepower is off you might be able to figure out how much more you got with new motor. When I use it it seems like my horsepower is low. But regardless if there is a change you can see what it is.
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Peak HP isnt everything. That is why mine picked up with an increase in mid range power and not muck peak.
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Got another weekend of abuse on it. Though it got rained out after the end of first round. I had won it, so that was a good thing and since the round was completed the points stay.
Traction was horrible and it took me a while to figure it out. With the increase of power through mid-range, I had to leave even lower then usual. I was down to 4000 rpm to get the car to leave strong. No bog, that's for sure. Still 1.41 sixty foot. Low 6.8's and 99 mph.
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Very cool results Larry! ;)
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Attaboy Larry! Looking forward to seeing it at the next FERR.
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Jay, that's like 7 months away.........but here before we know it.
Only two more weeks of racing and it all comes to a close for 2019..... :-[
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Hey Larry, a buddy of mine was at Norwalk and told me about your car and the times. I told him that you had worked hot & heavy to get it done before you couldn't test and tune anymore this yr. He was impressed on your launches. He then aske me what the hold up was on my Galaxie motor, I told him the greenbacks were slow his yr with the hail damage and my work load this summer. If I can get the head gaskets from Cometic, I can finish the motor. Then I can R&R the car! Garry
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Little secret......i reused my cometics after i put that one pass on them after pulling the heads. Lol.
The shop really helped me get things moved through quickly. 30 yrs of friendship has its advantages.
If anyone buys cometic intake gaskets, you find the bolt holes are placed better now. The shop bitched and send back a few sets because you had to repunch them like 3/8" lower then supplied. They first moved the port, then finally just moved the holes. Ugh.