FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: AlanCasida on May 12, 2018, 03:57:42 PM
-
I took my '65 Mustang(428CJ powered) out for it's first real drive today, about 6 miles, and it was like an oven inside the car! And it's only 88 deg here today. When I opened the floor vents it was like I turned the heater on. I guess always hotrodding fullsized cars has spoiled me...I don't know. At any rate unless I can do something to cool it down there is no way I am going to take it on Dragweek this year. On the bright side, even though I only drove it about 6 miles the engine didn't overheat and I didn't have to walk home.
-
.
-
Ceramic coated headers, both inside and outside of the tubes.
-
My 67 with 460 has long tube headers Jet Hot coated inside and out with their ultimate high temp coating and my car doesn't heat the floor boards at all that I've ever noticed on hot days in AZ.
Maybe your headers are closer to the firewall? Under hood can get pretty hot though. Got any pictures?
-
No headers helps a lot.
-
put Fatmat under the carpet its quieter and cooler and X2 on the header coating.
-
I will be spraying Lizard skin products for sound and heat. Then adding some type of insulating mat under the carpet too. I’m with ya on being able to drive and not have a heat stroke.
-
The Mustangs need an exit for the heat. Of course carpet and heat barrier helps, as does ceramic coating, but the key is having airflow both moving and parked.
I added my Boss 9 scoop and purposely did not seal it to the carb because I wanted heat to evacuate when sitting in traffic. It made a heck of a difference, along with the ceramic headers. You can see the heat if you sit there for a while
As far as driving, not much airflow behind the shock towers even at speed, so anything you can do to to either make a low pressure area under the car (chin spoiler or some sort of tab like a new car to disrupt airflow) will suck air out the bottom, or, an unsealed scoop may pressurize areas that allow more airflow near the cowl.
Secondary benefit of having a better exit is the radiator works better as it isn't pushing against an air bubble
In the end, my boss scoop made so much of a difference, I didn't bother with the chin spoiler
-
Alan, do you have the carpet installled? If not, that will make a huge difference. And did you use the firewall insulation pad or leave it out for weight savings? Same deal with it, it makes a big difference.
The majority of the heat will come from the firewall and roll out from under the dash. Headers not only heat the front of the floorboards, but the firewall too. The floor fresh air vents will blow warm air at first, since that's where they get their air, but as air is passed through them, they typically cool down and really help. Ross makes a good point about the front air dam. I hadn't thought about it before, but that probably does help draw air out of the engine compartment and keep it cooler.
I don't have an issue with heat in my car, but I also put Dynamat all over the floor before installing the carpet. That stuff really helps with header heat in the front floorpan area and also dampens road noise. Drawback is it's heavy. I also have the firewall insulation pad, and although it helps, I will still get heat that rolls from under the dash. I wish I had put Dynamat there also, but it's not bad enough to tear it apart and put it in. Even on the hottest days, it'll get a little warm in the car, but it's not so bad that it makes it uncomfortable, at least to me. Keep the floor vents open at all times.
Edit: Oh, and make sure you seal up ANY holes on the firewall. Any hole that isn't sealed will push through hot air like a house furnace.
-
I have full interior in the car, including padded carpet and a new firewall insulator. When I converted it to MII front suspension I made removable covers for the old shock tower holes in anticipation of just such an issue. I will take them out and see how much difference that makes. I just wasn't expecting it to get that hot that fast inside the car. I only drove it about 15 minutes tops.
-
The wires on my headlight dipper switch melted & stuck to the floor! :o
On the plus side the car does not require a heater in cold weather.
-
Coated headers here in my SBF '70 Mach 1 and no issues with underhood nor cabin heat.
-
[quote On the plus side the car does not require a heater in cold weather.
[/quote]
Like in the Model-T when i drive it chilly Autumn nights i remove the floor
boards around the pedals ( and it is really wooden boards) gets warm and cosy ;D
-
Us Mustang guys are just inherently tough ;)
-
Alan, you didn't mention if your headers were coated or not. I have coated headers in my 68 Mustang, stock carpeting and carpet pad, and a really beat up firewall blanket, and have no interior heat issues whatsoever. If your headers aren't coated, I'll bet that is a large percentage of the problem...
-
Alan, you didn't mention if your headers were coated or not. I have coated headers in my 68 Mustang, stock carpeting and carpet pad, and a really beat up firewall blanket, and have no interior heat issues whatsoever. If your headers aren't coated, I'll bet that is a large percentage of the problem...
They are not coated as in Jet-Hot or anything like that. I did use some spray on coating I got from Eastwood's but I don't think it offers much of a heat barrier. Since I am going to swap out the 428CJ anyway I guess I might as well ship my headers off to get them coated while it's apart.
-
Us Mustang guys are just inherently tough ;)
No argument there, Doug. :)
-
... I guess I might as well ship my headers off to get them coated while it's apart.
Alan, you might want to check around locally to you before shipping them. I used to send my headers off, but we have a couple good coating places local to us in the Twin City area, no reason to send them off anymore. Ask around with your local racers, race car builders, etc. Saves any possible shipping loss or damage too.
-
Im with doug. Alittle heat and a couple of busted up knuckles never hurt anyone.
The payoff is worth it
-
I agree on the ceramic coated headers. Worth every penny.
Also, you might raise the back of the hood with washers. Maybe a 3/8". It lets the hot air at lower speeds. At high speed I'm not sure if it lets air out or pulls it in. Either way it has to help cool.
JMO,
paulie
-
I have a Crites teardrop hood on it now that is open in the back. The headers are homemade by me and aren't really that close to the firewall or the floor. I'll get them coated and see how that goes but time(for me anyway) is running out fast for Dragweek.
Another thing happened was just as I was pulling in the driveway the car died just like the ignition had shut off. I was able to get it going but it did it again as I was halfway through the garage door and it shut off like the ignition was turned off then it would not restart. It cranked just fine and had gas. I am assuming it must have been heat related since after it cooled off it started again. I have my MSD located in the passenger compartment so it should not have gotten overheated. Maybe it was the coil...I don't know.
-
Sounds like a bad ignition switch.
-
Sounds like a bad ignition switch.
Could be but it's brand new as well as all the wiring and I have never had that problem before while running it in the shop.
-
Exactly how the Mustang would act when the pickup was going bad....twice. I'm guessing it's a new distributor, but I wouldn't bet a paycheck that it wasn't the problem.
-
Exactly how the Mustang would act when the pickup was going bad....twice. I'm guessing it's a new distributor, but I wouldn't bet a paycheck that it wasn't the problem.
I am already looking at putting my old Accel dual point in it for now. I would rather tackle just one problem at a time!
-
Alan, you may be burning fuel in your headers, which would cause your headers to be much hotter than normally expected. Very late (retarded) ignition timing and/or very advanced cam timing can cause this. I doubt it is cam timing since such extreme timing would probably cause the piston and valves to collide. Burning fuel in headers can go from bad to worse if fuel tuning is based upon EGTs - the high temps would normally indicate a lean condition, so the EGT based tuning would result in the addition of more fuel, which will make the problem more acute.
If fuel is burning in your headers, you will likely experience other problems (shutting off unexpectedly) as you indicate. Did the paint on your headers burn more than you would expect?