FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: turbohunter on September 15, 2016, 07:48:08 PM
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Figured since the guys are busy with Drag Week I'd start the build thread on my mustang.
It's a '66 A fastback. I bought it from a very good friend that has since passed away so there's no way it is ever leaving my family.
When I bought it it was in primer and pretty rough with a not original 289 in it. I cleaned it up, painted it and drove it for a while.
Then one day I said, "hey, why don't I freshen up the front end." Upon tear down I said to myself, "hey, as long as I'm doing this I may as well do that". Pretty soon it was completely apart and you all know what happens next. Other projects get priority and boom, it sits for years.
Well the kids are all out of the house and I'm in the middle of another build (my Fairlane) so hey, perfect time to get on the mustang.
I guess I should give you the low down on what I'm thinking about for it.
First off, I'm not a restorer. Right or wrong I'm a modifier. I realize some guys may hate, hate, hate it, but that's ok.
It will occupy the "for fun only" slot in my little group of vehicles. The Fairlane is a mostly race car, the mustang is all street.
Then I have my cruiser dd truck ('61) and the fun truck ('74).
At first I was going to throw a blown 4.6 in it but everybody has done that. And at first it was going to have air suspension because it was new and exciting when I first tore it apart ( I lost my head), but that's going away for coil overs (I'm better now, thank you)
I'm putting a 428cj block in it. The crank has been offset ground to a 4 inch stroke. Bores are 4.185. It will be injected.
As soon as I can get an aluminum block, that will be what eventually goes in it. But I'm not in a hurry.
Basics of the car are:
Injected 440FE
T600 5 speed (.68 5th gear)
TruTrac 4.11 rear end (31 spline axles)
Front tires 17/225/45s
Rear tires 18/255/45s (26 inches tall)
As of today I'm locating the engine and trans to build mounts. Been running into a few little problems. I'm going to have to lower the rack as it is just plain to high and in the way of getting the engine down where I want it. Will do that tomorrow.
I'm shoving the engine as far back as I can for a few reasons. One, I had to move the seat platform down and back in order to keep my head off the roof. So having the shifter move back with me would be good. Second, that's a bigger engine than this car was engineered for so weight distribution is paramount. Also can use as much room up front as possible (may need an intercooler some day ;D ).
I'll include a few pics so you guys get an idea of where I'm at and then keep adding.
Oh BTW, the reason the oil pan is hacked is because it is a generic Canton pan for IFS mustangs but the front sump just doesn't fit so it will be flat instead of having a front sump.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2015.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2031.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2026.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2030.jpg)
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Lookin good Marc! Will look forward to your updates.
Bruce
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Boy ain't that thing shiny red. Not your typical engine choice for a 66 ....... I like it. 8)
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Nice looking car, rims, and I like the engine choice..stay at it...........Al
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Sweet!!
Keep us posted.
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Awesome! Will be following !
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Very nice....The car will draw a lot of attention with the FE in it..I am currently building a 66 Fastback with a 428CJ 4spd..Different school of thought tho..
I am quite familiar with the front sump issue as my 427 68 also uses one(as does the 66)...I include a pic of the pan on the 427..The sump has been trimmed to the max and the oil pump is pretty much sitting on the floor.Pump is a standard depth pump that is blue printed and coated...
My question...where do you plan on putting your oil pump ???
This pic is the 428 in the 66
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20001%204_zps4clzxwvd.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20001%204_zps4clzxwvd.jpg.html)
Pic of the 427 pan
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/1968%20Fastback/0152.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/1968%20Fastback/0152.jpg.html)
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I couldn't remember how far it hung down. Was hoping it would fit in the space I had left. But if it hangs to far down then I'll end up trimming and rebuilding the front sump as shallow as possible.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2020.jpg)
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Well not gonna be able to trim to much out of it but I'll get some, maybe .500 if I'm lucky.
No worries though I'll take what I can get. Can always reshape the sump a bit to just house the pump.
Meanwhile, getting ready to lower the rack and make room in the tunnel for the trans. Figuring on being able to drop the rack .750.
That along with shortening the sump will get me where I need to be.
So much for a flat pan ;D Amazing how one thing effects another when you're going off script.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_1.jpg)
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There is another option... a lot of people overlook it, maybe because it is expensive! It will solve the problem though. Run an external belt driven oil pump. Just a single stage pump like a dry sump pump, but basically run it as an external wet sump. There would be a few oil lines and some plumbing to the pan and filter head, but it is all doable, and no oil pump in the pan so out of the way of the Mustang 2 steering set-up.
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Thanks Thor, that's a cool idea.
I think I'll be ok but that's a good idea to have in the pocket.
Trying to get a handle on where the point of diminishing returns is.
BTW I was able to lower the rack about 7/8s.
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Looks great Mark. Have you given any thought to what you're going to do for a radiator yet? I figured I'll end up with a later model 24" big block radiator in mine, but I'm not sure what I'm going to use for a fan yet. I'm don't really like electric fans, I don't know why I just don't, but I'll use one (or two) if I have to. I've been looking for alternatives.
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Not to much thought about it, just know I'll have to go a bit bigger and modify the core support to accept.
And fans. :D
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I cant get enough of it. That is a beautiful car! Envious!
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I love FEs in 65-66 Mustangs, that thing is going to be cool. Especially with EFI.
On the external pump, I have one like that on my Mach 1, and also the dry sump on the Shelby clone. I am not quite as enamored of them as I used to be. In fact, I may take the dry sump off my Shelby clone and go back to the normal wet sump, but add a vacuum pump and an Accusump. There are two things I don't like about the external pumps. One is that you have to prime them somehow before starting after they sit for a while, or they won't pump the oil. The other is that the breather can required tends to fill up rather quickly, and if you don't keep it drained a bunch of oil starts coming out of the top of the breather can. Two years in a row now this has dogged me at Drag Week. Its fine for a race car, not so much a street car, I think...
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Thanks Jay, that would bug the heck out of me on a street car. So the initial cranking of the engine on start up doesn't prime the pump? I assume that because you have plumbing to get to the pump from the pan and the pump being above the pan the you loose prime upon shut off. Is there a way to defeat that like lowering the pump? Realizing of course you may run out of room between the pump and the street. What about a frame rail pump location ( but then how would you drive the pump ).
Bumming that I've been working all weekend so haven't been able to work on it.
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The external pump will prime as long as its got some residual oil in it. But if it sits for a while, like a couple weeks, that residual oil will drain away, and then cranking the engine won't prime the pump. If the pump is below the oil level in the pan, its not a problem because it will have oil in it all the time, but on my Mach 1 I had to position it above the oil level, so it was a problem. I started the engine once without thinking about this and ran it for about 60 seconds with no oil pressure, which of course is scary, and in fact I need to pull the pan and check the bearings before I race it again. Still has good oil pressure after that incident, but I sure can't trust the bearings at this point.
An Accusump is an easy way to solve this problem, just seal up a couple quarts in the Accusump prior to shutting the engine off, then open it back up right before starting, and there are no issues. But between the startup issue, the extra plumbing, and the oil blowing out of the breather, I just don't see the advantage of an external pump anymore.
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Not to much thought about it, just know I'll have to go a bit bigger and modify the core support to accept.
And fans. :D
On the 66 the stock rad support was sectioned and the middle part of a 67/68 support was used.I then modified stock FE rad mounts to fit.Also used a oem style BB rad with stock hoses and shroud.....
I might add..this engine is pretty stock other than a 268H cam and roller rockers..
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20002%202_zpstowac9os.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20002%202_zpstowac9os.jpg.html)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20003%203_zpsc9kepkrq.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/66%20mustang%20428/66%20428%20003%203_zpsc9kepkrq.jpg.html)
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Hey, just a question for 427Fastback..How many 68 Deluxe dash pieces do you need for one car?!?! Lol..
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Hey, just a question for 427Fastback..How many 68 Deluxe dash pieces do you need for one car?!?! Lol..
Funny...I didn't even notice them...I have been collecting oem deluxe dash parts for over ten years now.Plan was to use the best that I could find in the 68 when it comes back from paint (3-4 weeks now)Then I would sell off the rest..Did the same with radio delete panels and heater delete stuff...
1968 Repo deluxe dash parts are so bad Stevie Wonder could tell the difference..
Cory
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Over the years I have done the same collecting the best for a couple of cars. It made me laugh because I was recently on ebay just looking and saw that the center AC registers were almost over $300 each! I have a camera case, 2 brushed aluminum, and a woodgrain-plus all the side pieces and the dashes to go with them. Good luck with your 68 it looks like you have collected some nice NOS pieces.
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100% on the mark about repo stuff..braille all the way..lol Only stuff that I like is from Scott Drake if I have to.
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100% on the mark about repo stuff..braille all the way..lol Only stuff that I like is from Scott Drake if I have to.
Don't mean to step on the thread....but NOS stuff to me is a disease as well..I have boxes apon boxes of NOS stuff for the 68.Some deluxe dash pcs as noticed and I even found a NOS (primer brown) drivers door..As I live up in BC (as in some US states) even finding something useable that mother nature has not tortured can be a problem..Repo is the last resort and I agree on the Scott Drake parts..
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LOL
Nice job of bringing it back to the disease aspect.
You get it.
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Well then, today has been an exercise in self restraint. I was going to say futility but it's not, I made a lot of headway.
Started the day by trying to figure out how I could get more oil pump room.
I called Doug at Precision and asked him what I could do to get more pan room. He at first said that a standard pump is 1/4 inch shorter than a high volume pump. He also counter sinks the bolts on the bottom of the pump. Then he said I could take an 1/8th off the flange. Then I asked him if I could actually cut the section out between the flange and the body of the pump. :o He thought about it for a minute then said it's certainly doable, IF, you can get it welded back together and IF you can deal with the drive shaft mis alignment as well as the gallery. Obviously you would have to re size the shaft.
Well, knowing that I have a disease I started thinking about how to get that done.
I went back over to the car and started to see what I would be doing to myself if indeed I could shove the engine back as far as I wanted. I was talking with my friend John (who I am renting space from) about it and we were starting to add up all the problems I would make for myself. One of the biggest was that I was starting to affect my drive line geometry. If I push the engine back it forces the trans down unless I cut the floor and raise the tunnel. Not to mention the oil pump rebuild and the possible problems that may bring up with the off center shaft even if I get it welded back together correctly.
I have also gone over the external pump scenario over and over and really don't want to deal with it in a street car.
So I put the pan back together as it's already pretty tight around the pump. Also if I was to modify the pan I don't know how the pickup would be affected (would there be enough room for all that piping).
I started fitting the engine and trans back in the car and saw that I could pick up a lot of room by rebuilding the racks exterior tubes to run around the pan (see pics).
So the upshot of this whole exercise is I believe I have reached the point of diminishing returns and I learned a lot. I set the engine back in the car centered it. Measured once, twice, three times (it's got about an inch and a half or two set back, however that's a bs statement because there really is no stock location in a '66 for an FE) then asked John to make me some tubular mounts. He's a hell of a lot better welder than I am. So hopefully the next update will be with the engine mounted in the car.
This is the section of the pump I was thinking of taking out. I could pick up almost an inch, but ……
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_1.jpg)
This is how much clearance I am ending up with.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2012_1.jpg)
Back in
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2013_1.jpg)
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So now that I've slept on it.
All I really had to do was lower the rack and re route the exterior tubing on the rack and the old oil pan would've worked perfectly with out having to cut it. Now I know ::). But it's kinda fun to try to push it.
Did I get all the set back I wanted? Not really but when I finally can get an aluminum block that will lop a hundred pounds off the front anyway. And taking more setback would create more problems down the road.
Ok, lesson learned. I'm good with it.
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Looks to me like your rack is already sitting on the lower a-arms.No place for it to go..Also moving the rack up or down affects your bump steer.
I had to put spacers on my heim joints (no tie rod ends) to correct the bump steer..
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/1968%20Fastback/005.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/1968%20Fastback/005.jpg.html)
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Yup, that's as low as I dare take it and that's at full droop so all is well. That's just the boot not the rod that's touching the A arm.
I actually helped a maybe future problem at full suspension compression. The tie rod was awfully close to the frame.
Not to worried about bump steer. With the small amount I moved it I can certainly fix it later if it becomes a problem.
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Hey Cory, I'm curious how you spec' out your front shocks and springs. And are you happy with them?
I'm in the middle of figuring out what I'll be running right now.
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My rack (427 car) is just as close to the a-arms as yours.The boots actually sit on the through bolts..My shocks are QA1 adjustable ones..When I had stock suspension I always ran 625lb springs.As the shock and spring are roughly in the same point pivot wise I just guessed (kinda) and bought 550-575lb springs...Springs are cheap so I wont be upset if I have to change them..
I haven't driven the car yet with the new suspension..I am not due to get it back from the paint shop for a month..
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/1968%20Fastback/the%2068%20009_zps5z9xlh4g.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/1968%20Fastback/the%2068%20009_zps5z9xlh4g.jpg.html)
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Sounds like our set ups are very close.
I had the same thought on springs. They are cheap enough to play with and find the set up that you like. I'd love to be able to weigh the car and do it the right way. But cant do that for a while yet.
I thought I would try a lighter spring to start out with and either work my way up or weigh it. That way I'll have springs for a lighter engine. Or not.
Thanks for the info.
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Well after talking to some folks that know these shocks and springs I was advised to get the 650lb springs for coil overs supporting an FE.
So Cory you are right to start there. As you said, the springs are cheap enough to buy lighter ones if you have to tune down.
Picked up a set of Ridetechs. Really nice pieces. Will mount them soon.
I had today off so I went over early to get to work on the mounts. To my surprise John already had the trans mount cross bar bent. We are mimic'ing the x brace that is already on the car. I drilled and taped the frame (it's been reinforced with 3/16 tubing). We test fit and tacked, and viola, we had a trans mount. John had to take off for a while so I got to work on fabbing the pieces for the motor mounts. They're looking good but still need some tweaking.
BTW exhaust will go over the trans mount and x brace.
Really enjoyable working at Johns. He's been teaching me some techniques I had no idea about. Learned how to power tap a hole today and use a hydraulic punch instead of drilling. Both time saving deals.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%204_2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_2.jpg)
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Hey...I am using the same trans as you in my 68 except I went for the .82 fifth gear...I was told by a few people to knotch my trans crossmember tunnel brace for clearance..Not sure if its a issue for you.I knotched mine and then welded it all back up....No open wounds..
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm220/427Fastback/1968%20Fastback/tunnel%20mod_zpsf8gep1bn.jpg) (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/427Fastback/media/1968%20Fastback/tunnel%20mod_zpsf8gep1bn.jpg.html)
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It was an issue. The trans would not get high enough for good driveline geometry.
Mine is totally gone. I've got plenty of reinforcement down there and I'm not using it to hang the crossmember on so it's gone.
Nice job on the blend back on yours.
Curious if the '66 and '68 tunnels are the same.
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Thanks.....I am pretty sure the tunnels are the same.I didn't have the 5spd when I did all of this so I am hoping it is OK...You don't even really notice in the pic unless you look for it which is what I like..I also put the Boss/CJ complete rear staggered shock stuff in while it was upside down...
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Finished the main part of the rear end install.
In the last pic you can see how tired I was. I installed one of the front shocks on the rear.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%206_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%209_2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%205_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2013_2.jpg)
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Ok back with the right shock.
And started to mock up the front brakes.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%204_3.jpg)
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Looking really good, Marc! I didn't realize you were going to use a coil-over. My only beef with that set-up pictured is that it doesn't look like there's room for a rear housing brace, but that Currie housing should be pretty strong even without one.
Is that a coating on the front disc? I hadn't seen one that was black on the braking surface like that. Are you going to run discs on the rear also?
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Yeah discs all around.
The coating is a black electro coat. They swear by it and it keeps the rust away so I went with it.
As far as the room in the rear, yes, it is very, very tight in there. Notice I cut out the rear deck and will have to rebuild it to be clear of everything. Not to worried about the housing hang in' in there. I won't have that much hp. Currie housing, no brace.
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Installed the heads on the block so John can build me a set of headers.
Ordered the flanges and collectors from SPD (Specialty Products Design) in Rancho Cordova Ca.
Chris Hill is the owner and very helpful. He actually made me a set of flanges from a rubbing off my heads. I'm sure he pulled a set of E'bock flanges and modified.
I also cut and bent up the floor replacement for the mess I made in the trunk in order to get access for all the suspension in the rear. Not to bad if I do say so myself. I may leave it overlapping instead of butting. Will be strong as hell.
BTW, how nice does an FE look in there?
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0043.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0044.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0045.jpg)
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(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0059.jpg)
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I love simple brilliant thinking.
I asked John to make me headers for the mustang. He had to swedge the round tube into a rectangle.
I thought he would have to build the right size wedge and beat the hell out of it.
To me this is brilliant. So simple.
http://vid1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_9011.MOV.mp4
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That was cool! Way better than torch and wedges.
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On dry sumps for the street, I've also heard from one fellow where trash he ran over kicked the drive belt off the pump and he lost all oil pressure, pronto.
What save his butt was a aftermarket red light on his dash (don't remember if it was integrated with his aftermarket oil pressure gauge) that flicked on to warn him to shut it off.
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Yeah I agree Bob. Just a bit to iffy for me. Of course had I waited to figure it out I wouldn't have to re weld and re coat a brand new pan. ::)
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Couple of pix just for porn sake.
John is building my headers and as with many other things you have to compromise a bit. The problems besides being able to reach your perfect size and length are enough room for the turns, stuff in the way and simple things like being able to get a bolt in the hole.
We may have a problem getting enough length into number 8. Very time consuming process.
Really kind of fascinating.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0070.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0072.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0076.jpg)
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Like your dog.
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With all due respect to ALL other dog owners.
I have the best dog in the world. He loves just being there under the car with me.
His name is Cammer (Cam for short).
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Since we're all sitting around watching the tube today, I thought you guys might enjoy this.
John got finished with my headers. As I said before, concessions had to be made, so no equal length, and had to make slip joints for the passenger side. We thought that side would be the easiest but the bell housing said different. There was no way to get a full set in, so we decided on a slip joint. But the way he did it really is neat. I like that he made the joint at the collector.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%205_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%208_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%204_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%203_3.jpg)
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Nice Pipes!
What they cost, like 20 bucks. ;)
You got pipes man, looks ready to go to me. :) :) :)
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Yeah they're not gonna be cheap but there's really not any '66 Mustang 428 with a Mustang II front end pipes that I could find. ;)
Hope y'all aren't to cold up there.
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Radiator day today.
Living in SoCal I don't want to say "it's to hot to take a drive" or "I can't sit in the burger drive through 'cause it's to hot".
So plenty of radiator is needed here. Stock don't get it. The stock opening don't get it. So, cut it up.
I measured the core support then ordered a nice Griffin crossflow from Summit and stuck it in.
As expected it was a bit to large so I went about making it fit. I cut the frame rails down and made pockets for it then hacked out the center of the core support. Turned out pretty nice.
I'll fab up a tray and mounts and on to the next project.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%204_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%203_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%205_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image_2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2010_3.jpg)
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Nice job, Marc. I've made those same pockets in 67-69 Mustangs to make a 31" X 19" crossflow radiator fit. Well worth the trouble for the additional cooling capacity, IMO...
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Thanks Jay.
Also thanks for listing the rad size. I totally forgot to.
31x19 crossflow (again ::) )for anyone interested.
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Today I put together the sway bar I purchased form Scott's Hotrods.
It comes in pieces as a tube, a bar, laser cut side pieces for the mount, nylon style end bearings and all the pieces you may need to get to the A arms.
The female splined arms that run from the bar back to the down mounts are huge. To huge. I showed John and he took them and did a little magic with the mill and I had nice parts instead of hugeness. I took a pic of them after he cut off the rear of the arm but laid them next to each other so you get the idea. Then the finished arms are visible in the next pics.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%203_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%201_4.jpg)
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We have the same Dog!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/rusty428cj/1968%20Coupe/DSCN5482_zpse32dc2ce.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/rusty428cj/Matts%2066%20Fastback/52.jpg)
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Wow Rusty, they look like twins.
BTW love your cars and really appreciate your and Brians expertise. Hope I learn half as much as you've forgotten.
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I like what you are doing with your car!!
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Awesome!! Keep up the great work. 8)
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Hi, it look's great as for all of your clearance problems and weight distribution if you make the front fenders six inches longer the oil pan problems go's away and it gives you a lot of room, you said you like to modify your cars, that's just my thought. Leny Mason
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Now that's something I haven't thought about. :)
Everything seems to be fitting as it is. In throwing a tape in there it looks like the water pump and rad fan will all fit. Making the pockets for the rad moves it forward under the core support top.
I think it's gonna work fine.
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Great looking job and craftsmanship Marc! I really like the 65/66 fastbacks! Those headers look excellent also....Keep up the good work.....Merry Christmas.........Al
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Hi, I made my frame go out on each side and the bumper brackets go on the inside of the frame, that gave me two inches on each side kinda like what you did, I like your car it will be fun. Leny Mason
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Very nice Marc. Looks great!
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Thanks guys, it's a hell of a lot of fun.
Exhaust started heading back today.
John wanted to do it so I let him ::) . He kinda wanted to finish what he started with the headers.
Ordered a whole passel of parts today like fuel tank, a/c system and brake mc so I can finish the mock up soon. Yes soon.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0109.jpg)
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He got an A+ on the headers they look great, are your frame links home made they look nice to, it's fun when things start to go together after a long project. Leny Mason
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Yes the headers are really nice. I'm thrilled with them.
The frame links all started out as one of the old Total Control X braces. I always liked it because it goes in and out pretty easily and seems to really work well. It has been re sized and the front to back side connectors have been added. It gives me a nice skid plate (for a low car) to put everything like exhaust and plumbing above. I also rosette welded some 1/8 inch channel around the front and rear frame assemblies so that there is an almost actual frame under it. I didn't want to worry about FE torque tearing apart the unibody (maybe to much worry) ???
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Parts are flying in so lots to do.
Brake master and electric power system came in. I decided I'd try an electric system from ABS.
Here's the link:
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ehpm.html
There's really nice place for it down by the torque box. I will build a box around it to shield it from the elements.
The master cylinder placement is going to be a bit fiddley. I'll make it work but I may not be able to use pentroof valve covers. I'll mess with it and see how much I can move it around.
Also got a/c and fuel tank so prolly Tuesday will get to those.
Woohoo I can feel a car starting to develop. :)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0111.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0112.jpg)
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Thought you would like to see the exhaust routing.
It is different than I have ever done and I can't remember seeing it like this. Because the car is so low we ended up having to route the rear under the rear axle. There is certainly no room above. It actually seems like it will work well. The suspension is at full droop here and the bottom of the exhaust is still above the lowest parts of the frame. When we set it on the ground it's all very tidy.
Also notice that we had to make a little jog at the rear of the drivers side because the gas tank is offset to that side.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0139.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0130.jpg)
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Vary nice they should be fine as long as there is clearance at the end of the shock travel, have you heard it yet that will be fun nice welds to, I said earlier the my frame goes out for e wider radiator, my frame is on my Blown Comet page, Leny Mason
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Engines not built yet so I haven't heard it.
I'm curious about the 3 inch all the way to the back end though through Flowmaster 40s.
Notice no crossover yet. We're figuring it will fit just below the tail shaft of the tranny.
And yes Johns welds are damn nice.
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HI, can you put the brake pump any where looks like a neat system.
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HI, can you put the brake pump any where ...
Almost Leny.
The pump and switch system can be mounted in any orientation or anyplace in the car that is lower than the mc. The mc has a gravity fed return line to the pump and switch.
Think of it like a power steering pump with a high pressure side and a low pressure return to the pump.
Your comment about looking like a neat system is right on. Let's say you have a big duration cam and don't have much vacuum. You don't need vacuum with this system to have power brakes.
Not to mention that you can hide it real easy.
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Nice build 8)
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Nice stuff...I haven't touched my 66 428CJ project lately...Now your car is making way more power than the one I am building so I am going to ask...While it is on a hoist and the welder is there wouldn't it be a good time to add two torque boxes to the car.I added them to the car I am building along with frame connectors.
Even with frame connectors and two torque boxes my 68 427 car will pop the glove box open in 2nd gear...Not questioning your build.Just a observation...Are you putting a cage in ???
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I hear you on the frame strength question.
I'm going to finish up with a roll bar. I wouldn't call it a cage because this is a road car and I want to get in and out easy. But I'll try to make it a real support bar.
As far as the extra torque boxes, you may be right but I'm betting on it being stiff enough with wrapping the frame in 1/8 inch and the frame stiffeners being pretty bad ass already.
I'll have a real good indicator of if that is a problem because I'm using some 18 gauge to make boxes over the equipment I'm hiding in the same place the torque boxes would go.
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Well...that's how we learn.We try new things ..When I pulled the 427 car apart I found the clear coat cracked across on the drivers side windshield pillar,the clear was cracked for a foot above the drivers side roof rail and the 4" long bracket the connects the drivers side inner apron to the cowl/firewall ripped off.Granted it was a 45 year old body...It has since spent some time on the rotisserie.Car has never been on the track.Just a mild mannered happy little 427.Car is painted now..I am just waiting for them to fricken wet sand it and polish it..
Keep up the innovative work...
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Kind of a fiddley day today.
Had to figure out how to mount a clutch mc. Not a lot of real estate left and what is there is different levels for the stock Mustang stuff. I want it by the brake mc so everything is nice and tidy. Also the sheet metal of the engine room isn't great for mounting stuff that gets stomped on over and over not to mention the action has to be lined up perfect.
After taking the brake pedal bridge and steering in and out of the car a couple times I had a hole I could make that lined up nicely with the clutch pedal hole. Still had the problem of mounting an mc to sheet metal so I called John over to pick his brain also. What we came up with is shown below. A good piece of flat stock welded to the edge of the stock indentation. Then I'll shape it a bit more to match the clutch mc then weld a sheet metal edge around it. Then I'll cut the back side of old sheet metal off the back/inside and in effect reshape the area.
I also bought a cheap set of fabbed valve covers off eBay because it looked like the shape would work well with the clearances I have. Perfect.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0157.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0159.jpg)
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Hi support it good there is a lot of strain on the fire wall at the clutch pedal, I have seen the area around the MC brake out in the 80's Ford and Chebby trucks, it's coming along well better then mine. Leny Mason
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Exactly Leny.
At first we thought about attaching to the brake bridge because we know that is a strong spot. However that would leave us with an unlevel mounting spot because of the way the firewall indents as the mc has to reposition upwards and out to line up with the pedal. So if we just move it to be flat with the firewall we get a good flat mount and can still take advantage of the reinforced area around the brake bridge. Not to mention the indent creates some strength. I think it's going to be good and strong. I'll include a pic of the finished area on Monday.
BTW I decided not to mess with the position of the brake mc because it's perfect positioning right from the factory. As you can see pentroofs prolly won't work but I'm cool with fabbed vc's.
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Ok here is the almost finished clutch mc bracket.
So now you can see how I'm making it part of the car body.
Kinda' touchy welding in here but it's really really strong. I've got a bit of filling and grinding to do yet and maybe a few more beads on the inside of the box. Welding the heavy flat stock to the corner then making an 18 gauge side of the box worked well.
Only had time to do a little bit today as John had to close early to do some church playground work.
Experimented with some beads in the brake pump cover. I tried to somewhat match the stock contours. Didn't get it exactly right but pretty close.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0166.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0167.jpg)
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Just a little update. This work thing lately really gets in my way.
Spent the day trying to pull things together so spent a lot of time driving around getting fasteners, stainless tubing, yada, yada, yada.
Fab work is pretty much done. So now it's all about trying to make everything work so plumbing and getting pedals to push correctly, etc.
Here's a couple picks to finish up the mc area. Both mc's fit nice and close. Getting the plumbing in there will be tight but there is plenty of room. The nice thing is is that the tubing will be pretty much hidden.
BTW once I'm done mocking up all the systems I'll blow it all apart and smooth all the welding and panels out before sending it to paint. So all those little pinholes and stuff will be gone.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_6.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%204_6.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%206_6.jpg)
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Been mocking up the car for fuel and brake lines and getting everything together to see how it fits.
Going to have to do a little panhard bar bending. :)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0182.jpg)
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Well I figure these threads are to inform as much as show cool stuff so I have a DS move to report.
When you are locating tabs for bulkhead fittings to go through for brake lines,,, DO NOT tack them in with the fitting still in the tab so that alignment is perfect (at least that was my thought process).
The spatter from the tack rendered one side useless. Moron.
Edit:
Cleaned up with a die run over it. But still.
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Oops LOL! Been there, done that, trashed the fitting...
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Ok, major fab is done.
Now I've blown it all apart and all the pieces are in my garage (along with the Fairlane). It's crowded in there.
The car is now bare naked (picture was Monday) so tomorrow I start finish welding and grinding. Then it's off to the paint shop. The painter is going to undercoat it (red) and paint the interior then just do some blends on the outside to clean it up as I am going to keep working on the exterior sheet metal, like the front valence will be reworked a bunch.
Suspension (and rear end) will get black powder coat.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0202.jpg)
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Ugh. Full day of welding and grinding. But it's just about ready for paint.
I walked in and Nancy just pointed to the shower.
I need a drink. :)
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Asked John to do the roll bar for me.
I dig it.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%201_6.jpg)
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OBTW learned how to straighten an axle housing the other day on mine.
I had never thought about the same thing (welding) that takes them out of square is what you use to pull them back.
John was telling me that the guys that are really good know exactly how long a bead to lay down to pull it back for any given measurement out.
Pretty darn neat stuff. Like watching magic.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image_5.jpg)
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Finished bar.
I went back and forth on whether to have him bend the top to match the roof and decided against it. I ended up liking it better. It came out clean looking but still nasty and I think the car will be plenty stiff.
I'm diggin' the x.
Ok NOW major fab is done. ;)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0222.jpg)
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Sorry guys but with Gods light shining on it this morning it just looked bad ass, so I had to share. I'm in love.
Did some more clean up today and am now waiting for the paint shop. They say two weeks.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%208_6.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_8.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2012_2.jpg)
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Hi are you putting interior in this car, it looks like it may be hard to reach the rear seat area to finish it off, it looks great though wish mine was that far along. Leny Mason
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No rear seat Leny, just carpet or modified closed seat set up. No way the old style seat will fit in stock form. Lately I've been wondering if I can make an area for my dog to lay in.
I planned from the beginning that it would be a two seater.
Access is still good with no glass and no front seats in it.
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Well she's partially painted.
I'm doing the paint in two stages. The first is to get it epoxied and sealed as well as color in the places like the engine bay and interior.
I went out on a limb a little bit and had the painter do a bed liner style of undercoating (second pic). I know most are painted but here's my reasoning. This is a driver not a show car and the sound deadening properties are going to help out. I know it's not what's done but hey, I'm not doing what's done. I had him cut the liner as much as he dared so that it would lay smoother. I think it really came out cool.
Should have it home tomorrow to start building.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%206_9.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%205_9.jpg)
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Looking right! I like the x too.
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Looking good....I like it..
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Well she's back in the garage.
Having dinner and vino in the driveway tonight with wifey.
Diggin on the fact that this is how our rod fathers did it. Putting their stuff together in their little garages.
Paying for what they could afford but then it's all up to you to get it done. I'm in heaven. I love my life.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_4386.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_4387.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_4382.jpg)
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All lookin' good Marc! Enjoying all the photos too. Bruce
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Funny reading a post that I did after a couple sips ::) of wine.
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That car is beautiful, Marc...
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You're very kind sir.
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Well I have a big garage, and it still looks like you have more room to work than I do ::)
I think it's looking great! And forget what others may think about the bed liner undercoating. While I painted my underside, I put a lot of extra sound deadener and insulation in my car. It may have added a bunch of extra weight, but keeping the tin can and rattly sound down on a street car goes miles towards keeping your sanity and enjoying the thing. It also helps give the car a real solid sound. I think you're doing a great job and can't wait to see the finished product.
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Thanks Doug and it's funny you bring up the sound deadener.
I have installed a bit in my two trucks. Living here in SoCal it gets hot enough in the summer to melt that stuff. I have scraped more than a bit off, so I'm not real happy with it though I understand the positives. I thought this might be a good way to get a tight feeling in the car as well as give it some protection because I AM gonna drive the pee out of it.
And yeah, I know you're loving my palatial garage. ::) I'm thinking of doing a small addition to put my shop in. As you can see my tools are double stacked against the walls. Every time I have to turn a spacer or whatever I have to drag tools out in the driveway to make room. I think 10 feet out (making it a 10x18 additional room) would give me enough room but I have street setbacks to deal with. So that's a maybe.
But hey if I just have a little wine at night I can wax poetic about how they did it in the old days in little garages. Oh wait.......
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Wow That car is awesome!!! Checking this thread daily for updates :D
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LOL I'm not sure I'll be making daily posts but I plan on having it waiting for the engine by summer.
Maybe late summer ;)
And thank you very kindly.
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Look at that shiny red paint!! Looks great Marc.
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Woohoo, gracias John
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Got to have the morning to install the rear end.
I included the picture of the tranny jack because it's without a doubt the best tool I ever bought at Harbor Freight.
We all know you only buy certain things there, this should be one of them if you have to work off the ground as I do. It lifts as you see and pancakes out pretty low. Great tool.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_11.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2012_4.jpg)
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Wow, that looks awesome! You're really cranking through stuff.
My dad and I were in the garage last night looking our red Mustang over trying to make a hit list of what we need to get done. We decided we're going to keep outfits in the garage and any time we take a picture we'll switch into them to make it look like we got everything done in one day......and didn't get dirty.
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Hah nice idea, if only. :D
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Well she's a roller again.
Hung the front suspension today. Man the little details and lubrication and cleaning paint and powder coat out of all the threads takes a ton of time but it's all very enjoyable.
Tried to set the alignment up fairly neutral to start with. We'll see how that goes with some weight. Easy to adjust though. I'm using washers now then I'll cut spacers when I dial it in.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%2013_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%202_11.jpg)
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Just a little update.
Have the brakes in.
Was thinking about the wiring so much I thought I'd get started to see what lengths and room I had to deal with. I have the front, rear and in dash trunks run. And the ac in.
Now I'm going to sit down and draw out what I need to put where as Jay suggested in the other thread. I've got the basics straight in my head now, the basic wiring harness is just that, an ac supply for all your basic running gear such as lights. The engine harness is separate and just takes power from the basic harness. I know it's simple but me and wires have never seen eye to eye. I'm forcing myself to learn more than just basic stuff.
My next problem is where to put the battery (trunk) and solenoid as well as my computer and related junk. Cause it ain't going in the engine room save for one spot. The old battery area I left as a mounting area for maybe computer etc. I can cover that area with a lid so that it's smooth.
I'm also moving the fuse box a bit. It's going on the kick panel at the very top. It's in the way a little bit of the fresh air vent but I can cut that up a bit to make room. This way it's up out of view and still easily accessible. Also all the wire runs are very neat and less visible.
I ended up using an EZ harness. Its put together kind of loose so that it's easy to change up the way the runs leave the box. When I used a Painless before it wasn't as friendly to change.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0355.jpg)
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Looking good, Marc. A well thought out and executed wiring system looks like art to a car guy. At least to me. It also makes it MUCH easier to work on, if need be. When I saw the picture of the wiring behind Jay's Shelby's dash, I think I about had a seizure...lol
That brake and clutch cylinder area looks super sanitary and easy to access. Heck, the whole car looks that way!
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Thanks Doug, sanitary is indeed a key word.
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Marc, it's looking good. You're moving right along. I wish I worked as efficiently as you.
Looking past the car is a shelving rack with what appears to be a dual 2 barrel intake! ???
Am I seeing heat right? What an oddity.
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Looks nice and tidy...I like the stainless line work.I see you have the master plumbed the norm.Rear chamber for the front brakes and front chamber for the rear brakes..Not sure who's master that is but Wilwood actually wants it plumbed rear to rear and front to front..Not sure why but that's what they want...
Not saying yours is wrong but for some reason some people like things done different (go figure)...Nice Job
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Hi I need a gas tank for my Comet and that looks like it may fit, who made it, and your car is a piece of art work. Leny Mason
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Marc, it's looking good. You're moving right along. I wish I worked as efficiently as you.
Looking past the car is a shelving rack with what appears to be a dual 2 barrel intake! ???
Am I seeing heat right? What an oddity.
Hah it does look like a 2 in the pic.
It's an old Ed F 380/3 deuces. I bought it cheap and figured I'd use it on a period hot rod but prolly not. Wall art.
I've got a nice y block 292 for a hot rod build after the mustang and Fairlane.
Fairlane block is in that same pic.
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Not sure who's master that is but Wilwood actually wants it plumbed rear to rear and front to front..Not sure why but that's what they want...
Not saying yours is wrong but for some reason some people like things done different (go figure)...Nice Job
I actually plumbed it wrong (Wilwood normal) at first.
The unit is from ABS brakes. Here's a link.
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ehpm.html
They have different mc's that they want plumbed specific to each one. Make sure you read the instructions ::) .
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Hi I need a gas tank for my Comet and that looks like it may fit, who made it, and your car is a piece of art work. Leny Mason
Thank you Leny. That's high praise coming from you. I hope I live up to that.
The tank is from Tanks Inc. They are really great to talk to and pretty much have it down as far as applications. The bottom of the tank has a sump area that I don't remember in my stock mustangs.
They supplied the pump for the hp I'll have and were very prompt.
I was going to do a fuel cell but once I saw these tanks and the great price it was a no brainer. Those cells are pretty expensive.
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In wiring hell this week. Maybe hell is a bit strong but it does take a while to do it right.
As I've said before I'm putting the battery in the trunk so have been figuring out how to get that done without stupid amounts of wire all over the car and long runs of hot wire.
This may sound elementary to a lot of you but even though I've wired cars before I've never wired one with the battery in the trunk. I of course looked at the way guys do it on line but frankly there is some not so good stuff out there as well as some good ideas. Basically I'm putting the solenoid and circuit breaker back there and running one hot 8g wire to a terminal under the dash. That way there is only one full time hot wire heading up front and that wire will be shielded the entire length. The starter cable will run under the car along the frame rails (I can say that now even though it's a Mustang. :)
All the accessories will get their juice from either the under dash terminal if they need to be hot all the time (such as stereo clock) or off of an accessory panel fed by the ignition switch.
Included a pic of the battery tray I'm mocking up for the trunk. Battery will mount on the outside of the roll bar down tube. The tray is through bolted to the frame. I'll prolly put some holes in the vertical part of the bracket and weld it together. Thinking of black anodizing.
Speaking of taking time, I don't know if you guys are this anal but to make the connector butts I take the plastic off the connectors then crimp them with a hydraulic crimper that smashes it all together
pretty darn good. It seems like no matter how hard I tried and checked with regular crimpers I'd always have one or two that came apart.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_0370.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_0371.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/IMG_0375.jpg)
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Love the crimping tool, Marc. Are you running a big ground wire from the battery to under the dash also? I hope so, for the EFI box's sake. Do NOT rely on a chassis ground for your ground to the EFI electronics.
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Thanks Jay. I've been thinking that a ground terminal would be good idea but wasn't sure I'd need one. I will definitely add that.
Think 8g will do the trick?
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I typically feed the EFI box directly to the battery with #10 wire. So, I guess it depends on how much other stuff you will be running off the #8 wire. If its the whole car, except for the starter, I would say #8 is not enough. Have you thought about just running a couple of #10 wires from the battery and dedicate them to the EFI electronics? That is the safest, surest way, along with a big capacitor across those two wires, right up at the EFI box.
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I figured I would power the efi off of the under dash terminals.
I planned on using chassis ground for all the normal stuff like gauges. I think all I'll need the good battery ground for is efi and the Vintage Air unit.
Does the efi draw a lot of amps?
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Wait, the efi needs constant power??
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The EFI box will only take about 3 amps, but the injectors will take about 5, and if you run individual coil packs that will add another 10.
If by constant power you mean when the ignition switch is off, no; the EFI box doesn't need to be hooked to the battery all the time.
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Thanks Jay
Looks like I'm putting a larger cable in there.
Hmm carbs are so easy ;) JK
BTW I've been scanning the Vintage Air manuals and they don't give an amp draw anywhere.
I'm guessing it's prolly 20 to 25 amps.
Anyone know offhand?
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This thread has only served to reinforce my belief that my sheet metal and fabrication skills really really suck.
thanks Marc :P (looks awesome btw)
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Thanks Drew
We all have our strong points. You've taught me a lot.
Any skills I have are mostly stolen ideas and screwing up and trying again.
I just hope I can get through this wiring mine field without hearing a click. ::)
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Ok that was a bitch but all the main trunks are in. My problem is that I'm paranoid about juice so I run that damn plastic sheathing around all the hot cables as well as grommets. Makes it a bit difficult to run through the little areas that Ford only thought there would be 14g running.
I didn't want to run a bunch of cable but I was running out of amp room so I threw in another 8g wire as well as a 4g ground from battery to service the computer and efi stuff (thanks Jay). I'll put in a ground terminal next to the engine management which I think will I'll install in the glove box area. I'll fab a bracket to mount it all on in there.
So I now have 2 8g wires from the battery and 1 4g ground wire for important stuff. Chassis will of course be well grounded and service all the regular stuff.
So I figure I've got 80 to 100 amps of service to under the dash.
Starter will again run under the car from the solenoid in the rear. I think since it's a mini starter I can get away with 2/O so of course I'll run at least 1/O
Included a pic of how I ran the cables so you can't see them and a pic of how the battery tray is coming along.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0380.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0381.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0379.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0378.jpg)
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Nice job!
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OK, mocking up the battery tray after welding.
Welds not ground yet.
I'm thinking I want it anodized black so I have to put the holes in it then process it.
I remember when I worked at Cole boats we used to do this same process. Install the aluminum raw, then take it to the polisher then the anodizer and the parts came out beautiful and hi gloss.
As far as the layout here I'm thinking a 60 amp circuit breaker for each hot leg out of the solenoid and a 150 amp breaker between the battery and solenoid.
I like these circuit breakers. They have a button that you can push to break the circuit. I'm thinking they will be part of my theft deterrent system. Since I have two legs of power I split the loads. I'll run the ignition through one side and the stuff that needs constant power in the other side. That way when I park it I can pop the ignition side breaker and car won't start. Then when I'm back I just go to the trunk and click the breaker back on and away I go.
In the picture you can see the top breaker is popped off. See the little lever?
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%203_2_1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%208_10.jpg)
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Now that I've been looking at it for a bit I might just do a brushed aluminum finish on the battery box.
Just thinking' out loud.
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Thanks Jay
Looks like I'm putting a larger cable in there.
Hmm carbs are so easy ;) JK
BTW I've been scanning the Vintage Air manuals and they don't give an amp draw anywhere.
I'm guessing it's prolly 20 to 25 amps.
Anyone know offhand?
My Vintage Air kit came with a 30 amp circuit breaker.
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Mine also John, so I took a total guess of a 20 to 25 amp draw.
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Wiring! Sigh......
Maybe someday car electronics will progress to wireless. Imagine only needing to run big power stuff (headlights,starter, alternator, battery) with traditional cables while all the rest operates wirelessly.
Sounds crazy and impossible but.....
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;D just like a Model-T then. Before -19 even the starter was wireles ;D
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Well I'm heading into my second week of wiring. :P
Finishing up the power station mockup.
Definitely time to clean up this mess and make a new one.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%207_12.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%205_12.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/Image%201_11.jpg)
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Marc, I'm not clear from the pictures how you are getting the power wires up to the location under the dash. Are you running them through a starter solenoid first, and having the solenoid act like a switch?
If so that might be a problem, because if I recall correctly the starter solenoid contacts are not rated for continuous operation. In fact, I think I may have actually tried that years ago and had problems; can't remember its been so long...
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Hi the only thing I see wrong is the color code on the battery I even sell I Interstate battery's but on your car so nicely done it looks wrong sorry, and jay they make continuous contact solenoids that work fine, please don't take offence on my statement. Leny Mason
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That's why I included a picture of the wiring.
Was hoping for any problems to be caught ahead of time.
Jay I'm doing it like I remember normal truck/car setups. I may be wrong so I appreciate any comment.
But there is constant power to the legs. All feeds are connected on one side of the solenoid. The solenoid is only used for the starter which is hooked to the opposite side.
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Hah Leny, you're right but I figured utility over art on this one. ::)
The battery is Interstates new (?) AGM. It is a pretty damn hot battery.
800 cca
1000 ca
125 rc
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;D just like a Model-T then. Before -19 even the starter was wireles ;D
LOL, go back a couple more years and even the headlights were wireless ;D
Marc, just curious, but what do you have that requires 3 of those big circuit breakers?
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Marc, just curious, but what do you have that requires 3 of those big circuit breakers?
Only one word
Paranoia ;)
Seriously with the amount of junk (a/c, fans, efi, stereo, and what ever else in the Kalifornia heat) that may run at the same time I'm just over doing everything. I know those breakers look huge and they are but you would normally have a fuse of some sort in the systems. I just replaced a fuse with these breakers because I like the idea of being able to reset instead of a fuse and when I want to pull a fuse to shut a side down I just push a button. They're pretty cool if you have the room for them.
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Understandable. I actually use those on several pieces of equipment at work, and they work great. I like the idea of being able to power up only what you want.
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Hey guys, with regards to the EFI vs carb thread and tuning, is there value in having a constant readout via an A/F ratio gauge in the car?
I just ordered gauges and saw that it's available.
http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wideband-a-f-street-phantom.html
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I have found it very hard to keep up with in use in a drag car, the numbers race so quickly it's hard to get use out of except maybe for some initial diagnosis.
If it will log, then it could help, but likely your EFI will already do that.
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This is a street car.
I was thinking that you would get used to a range of operation, then if it broke out of that range you would have a heads up to a problem (like a sensor going bad).
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For a street car I think they would be helpful, especially in a steady state situation like going down the highway, or idling in traffic. On the track, datalogging is definitely the best way to go.
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Had a great day in the garage today.
You know all those little details that you say "I'll get to that later"? The non glory stuff.
Well since everything is closed and I'm waiting for stuff, today was the day. Getting the ground path in and sound, wiring and checking brakes, clamping all the loose wire down, drilling tapping, installing the cover for the brake system and all those niggly little details that pile up.
Feels like a big leap forward. :) Stoked.
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Hey Marc, sounds like you are closer than I am. I know the feeling about waiting on parts!
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Boy as soon as you think you're gonna get a bunch done you find out you're human and getting older.
Took a bunch of days off this month to get the mustang ready for the engine then screwed up my back somehow. Been sleeping on the floor for a couple days. Finally felt good enough to get something done today and pretty much finished up the trunk.
Notice there is a different battery in there than before. Well just so happens that the battery (Optima) in my truck took a powder so the Interstate went in there which allowed me to satisfy my (and Leny's) artistic needs about color. Yeah, I know it's an Optima. I've never used a red top, only yellow, so I'm spinning this into being a yellow top problem with me. Weak, I know, but it's all I've got.
Anyway I'm sitting down a lot and trying to get stuff done. Moving from back to front.
BTW ended up powder coating the battery tray. And holy crap that latch is ugly, gonna have to chrome that ;)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0416.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0417.jpg)
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Pretty much have everything done from the firewall back. Seats and steering are all mocked up and ready to tighten if all works out.
Tried something different this time. Notice the multi pin connectors hanging out of the dash. I'm trying to make everything as modular as possible for easy r&r down the road. I'm kinda liking my electric system. Hope it works after all this.
Doing a bit of treading water after this weekend waiting for an engine but that'll give me time to tweak things and do some bolt tightness checks. I'd like to tidy up my wiring but until everything is run to the front end I'd just be tidying what I'd have to take back apart. Guess I can get my brakes all done and working and I have to re run the steering gear lines, and, and, and............ LOL still plenty to do.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0446.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0447.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0449.jpg)
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Looking good Marc
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Thanks John
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Liking those connectors, they will pay big dividends...
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Bored at work again. Thought I'd show you a couple engine things as we are in mockup.
First, I haven't seen anyone using these lifters so thought I would run 'em by you guys.
They are Isky Red Zones. They're small block solids with a pretty big axle. Seem pretty indestructible. Notice there is a hole for axle oiling as well as for up the pushrods. PN included for info.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0502.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0503.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0505.jpg)
Next is the port match between Jays adaptater and BBM heads. Pretty darn nice. Keeps the bills down.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0506.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0507.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0508.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0509.jpg)
Next just an engine shot showing the "new Harland Sharps" that are oiled through the pushrods.
Only 4 bolts hold them in so we're going to pin them at each end. Should be fine for the street.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0511.jpg)
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Very nice, Marc! That adapter/head matches near perfectly. Looks like whoever built them knew what they were doing ;)
I have no experience with them, but that captive tie bar system on the rockers looks like a good design. I was talking to Jack Miller during Drag Week about when Scott had the broken rockers. Knowing that the T&D system oils through the pushrod, and if a lifter spits out, you're going to lose oil pressure, I asked him how they managed to tie up the lifters to keep the lobes from popping them out. He said they didn't have to, that they never came out. He went on to explain that they were using a button type captive link on the lifters they had (unlike the sliding link style), which kept the lifters tied together good enough that they didn't pop out. Yours looks like the same design.
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Hi, I am wondering about the gas tank and pump, the one I looked at the in tank pump was good for 1000 HP and if that is true I would like to use it any bad experiences, Wow that is looking so nice it is coming together how cool. Leny Mason
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Hi Leny
All I did was order a setup from Tanks Inc.
Told them what I had and the hp then they sent me the kit. No muss no fuss.
I can't remember the parts pn's off hand but would be happy to look it up if you're interested.
I'm thinking you're going to be a bit more custom with your deal.
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Got my shipment from Jay of the computer and ignition parts and well I've got some stuff to work out.
Thought I was going to mount the computer in the glove box but it's to big. My backup plan all along was to build a console and that looks like what I'll do. I'll mount the computer in the console and give myself some room for accessories. This will prolly help my a/c vent construction also.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0537.jpg)
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Put together a pattern for the center console today.
Main purpose is to house the efi EMC, relays and such. The nice thing is there are holes in the body already available there, so my plan of hiding as much wiring as possible is looking good so far.
Doesn't hurt that extra goodies like cup holders can be stuck in easy. I'm going to mount a hand brake behind it next to my seat.
(https://s20.postimg.org/mm2rp6b19/IMG_0551.jpg)
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Marc, the console should turn our nice. I like the thought of cup holders.
Looks like you got enough room for a decent size TV screen too. You could stream Netflix while you’re cruising. :o
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First fit in metal.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0566.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0567.jpg)
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Really nice work, Marc... 8)
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Marc your car is looking excellent, can't wait to see it completed! I like your wiring and connections, had to chuckle on your battery story :) Sorry to hear of your back pain, don't sound fun...Al
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Thanks Al, this getting old thing ain't for pussies. ;)
Started getting the inside of the console together today, which means laying out the wiring.
I think I'll put a common ground off the battery on the left so I can keep all those ground wires contained.
I bent up and welded in the shelf for the relays and fuse box this morning. The computer itself is bolted to the spreader which sets the height of the console.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0573.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0574.jpg)
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Because I was overwhelmed by the amount of wires you have to deal with, I thought I might document how I go through and connect and route everything in order to help those that might venture this way and if I screw up maybe it will be caught.
Yesterday I laid everything out and made preliminary connections of easy stuff. Just following the basic scheme Jay laid out in his thread. Unswitched battery 12 volt will come into the six leg fuse box. The first two connects are to the 30 pole on the fuel pump relay and the ECU relay. I ganged the 7 basic ground wires together onto one lug and will connect them to a battery grounded lug. I was going to get an insulated lug but all the stores are closed today. So I found a perfect bolt and nut in the garage and figured if I weld the bolt to the console frame I'll have a nicely grounded piece (because I'll run a large battery ground to the lug) to make other installs (like lights) easy. Of course when done routing I'll make a harness out of the whole mess.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0576.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Mustang%20build%20pics/IMG_0577.jpg)
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Marc, the wiring looks good so far and most of those wires won't be used, so don't let the quantity of wires worry you. However, I'd suggest keeping the grounds from the EFI electronics separate from other grounds if possible. So, I wouldn't connect lighting grounds to that same ground point as the 7 black wires, and I wouldn't connect any of the ECU grounds directly to the frame. You should have a single clean power and ground wire coming from the battery to run the EFI box, and use a separate power and ground wire from the battery to run the other electrical devices like lights, electric fans or water pump, etc. Even though from a DC perspective this is exactly the same thing, from a signal noise perspective it is not. Electrical noise is the enemy here. Also, I would suggest a big bypass capacitor up near the EFI box. MSD makes some for their ignition boxes that work quite well for that application. So, I'd suggest from your ECU relay, run a big wire to a bypass capacitor. Then run a separate big wire (#10) from the battery negative up to the capacitor. From there, make all the power and ground connections for the EFI system at the terminals of the bypass capacitor. This includes sensor power and ground connections, for the crank and cam sensor for example. Don't connect any other power, or any other grounds, to that capacitor. That will ensure the cleanest power supply for the ECU.
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I was half kidding about the amount of wires. Although it is pretty daunting at first. But I've spent a lot of time separating and figuring out what I will and won't use. I think I have a good idea about it all.
I was hoping you would comment on the lights idea. I tend to get myself screwed up with the basic electric principals.
I was figuring since I was thinking of welding that battery ground bolt to the console shell, that in turn all of the shell would be grounded. So in turn if I wanted to ground into the console shell somewhere I would just drill a hole and attach a ground anywhere on the console. But I guess what your saying is that that ground loop may cause problems. So I'm guessing my original thought of an insulated dedicated ground is the better idea. Ok cool.
As far as the capacitor, is this the one you suggest? And install it off the 86 (ground) pole on the ECM relay?
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=MSD%20capacitor
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That's the one. Hook the 12V wire from the relay to the + terminal of the capacitor. Run a separate wire direct from the battery negative terminal to the - terminal of the capacitor. Then, just pretend the capacitor is the battery, and run any ECU 12V wires to the positive side of the capacitor, and any ECU ground wires to the negative side of the capacitor. The capacitor basically bridges between the 12V and ground wires, and provides reserve electrical charge to damp out variations caused by electrical noise. You want it as close as possible to the electronics, because every electrical wire is an antenna, and antennas will pick up electrical noise. So, if you put the capacitor back at the battery, then the two wires running up to the ECU could pick up noise and inject that noise into the ECU electronics. One of the things you learn when working with electronic circuits is to put a bypass capacitor very close to any integrated circuit. That is basically what you are doing by configuring the setup this way.
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Ok thanks, ordered.
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Ok the MSD capacitor showed up so I wired it in before work today.
So here is how it's set up, hope you can follow this in the picture.
Battery power comes in to the fuse box via the front post. The computer has its own battery power circuit which is the smaller 2 amp fuse. That runs to the capacitor then to the relay which powers the computer.
The ground is set up off of an insulated clean battery ground which runs to the capacitor then to the ground post on the computer relay.
So the battery power and ground are both routed through the capacitor.
(https://s10.postimg.org/4a31ph1zt/IMG_0582.jpg)
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Looks great, Marc! That will give you clean power...
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Hi, I hope you are making me a diagram to follow on mine, Wow how nice and thanks to Jay for the input. Leny Mason
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That's why I'm going into this painfully slow detail Leny.
Hopefully between Jays thread with all the good info and my thread where a ham fisted amateur gets it going, the process will become crystal clear.
If you go with the MS3 Pro system, their instructions and diagrams are quite good.
Edited the mistake of MP3.
I'm old.
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Who makes the mp3 is it fuel or Ignition thanks Leny Mason
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Here you go Leny.
You should be able to find all kinds of stuff here.
https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/mspro-efi-ems/
The company is DIY Autotune
Sorry I just realized I put MP3 instead of MS3Pro.
I'll change it.
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Wow a working system. The brakes officially will stop this thing. Only thing left is all the rest ::)
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Kind of a marker. Finished everything underneath the car until engine is in. Touched up the alignment and went over every bolt. It's amazing how many you forget to tighten.
Anyway she's on her feet with steering and brakes working well.
One more thing I've learned. From now on I'm doing everything on my engines. I haven't had the room (as you can see it's tight) but as long as I've been waiting and getting the mustang done will free up space. And to tell you the truth I hate waiting for other people's @%#&.
Anyway here she is ready for an engine and trans. I've been promised ::) the engine soon.
(https://s10.postimg.org/3mvda8z49/IMG_0695.jpg)
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I'd say that's tight! How do you close the door on the garage?
Glad you're making progress, Marc. It's nice to see these builds come along.
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Looking Awesome, makes me remember how much I liked my 65 fastback!..............Al
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Thanks guys yeah it's great to be moving along. I hope to be at 100% drivability soon (relative). ::)
Kinda fun today, I was cleaning out my garage and had all my junk in the driveway and street. Not quite in the area code of a Jay Brown collection or even close to a Pond setup but it's mine and I love 'em all.
Also a side shot of the mustang so you can get an idea how she sits. Motor not in yet :o lots of adjust room and 650 lb springs. Man they're stiff.
(https://s10.postimg.org/r07nh6ktl/IMG_0707.jpg)
(https://s10.postimg.org/ntd3xkft5/IMG_0712.jpg)
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Mustang looks badass, but I must admit I'm enamored with that pickup...
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Beautyful collection of junk ;D Where do you live green grass and the leaves
starting to hatch or how you say it. I got 40 inches of snow an 10-15 degrees
below 0 celsius >:( That looks like end of may for me
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LALA land Heo. Los Angeles.
There's a bunch of kooks and everything else here but those of us that were born here still love it even if we long for the old days. The weather is pretty darn good.
Jay that truck is a cream puff. I'm about to install a five speed in it. Been getting along on a granny first gear four speed for years. Having an overdrive will be awesome.
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Cool your car sits great and I hope the engine get's done soon, it is better to have it done right then getting in a hurry some times it seems like they are in jail with out bond, I two like your 61 is it a short box I have two 61's and one 62 big window, we are all hope full your engine get's done soon, this is at my house and yes it's Cold. Leny Mason
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Marc, nice pics and +1 on the collection! My no. 1 would probly be the wagon; able to haul lots of stuff and take some nice road trips. How does the Cal DMV treat the old cars as far as inspections, emissions, etc? Is there a year cutoff to be exempt like we have in TX? We still have to get a yearly safety inspection but the emissions side is exempt.
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Very cool livestock.
Are your cattle Lowlines?
Yeah the weather down here is a bit different. Gonna be 80 today then hopefully more rain this weekend.
Gotta do some maintenance on the F350 this weekend. Time to replace belts and tensioners. Hope it doesn't rain to much. Usually doesn't.
I don't mind waiting for the engine, to much, even though I whine. I have a builder friend that worked for my brother in the early days of SCE. He's one of these engine savant kids that has been building engines since he was hatched. He has a big race engine business so he has to service his high paying regular customers. My engines are projects, which he loves to do, but really I take a back seat to his paying the bills. I understand that. Still, I'd love to do my own and will work toward that. Space is my problem so I'll have to address that somehow.
Hi Bruce, thanks, yes '75 and older is exempt. Yet another reason to drive old stuff.
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Gonna be 80 today....
I hate braggers. ::) ;D
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LOL
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Gonna be 80 today....
Just rub it in just rub it in
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Having a fun day in the garage finishing up some niggly little bits in the electrics like finally going to buy a dimmer switch. Did some cleaning up and route sanitizing and came to the conclusion there was no reason not to fire it up and check connections and so forth.
It's alive.
No heart yet but the surrounding systems are working and no smoke anywhere. Whew :)
Crossed one more marker.
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Cut the center ac vents into the top of the console.
Having the console is allowing me to not have to use plastic housing/bracket parts for the ac. I prolly would've looked for or made some metal stuff anyway but this is pretty clean and saves me some dough. Not having the engine yet is making me think of things to do, so, I'm spinning that as good. ;)
Yeah I keep looking at the radio opening also but I'm waiting to see what I can fit in there before I decide.
(https://s10.postimg.org/9blgtt6bd/IMG_0724.jpg)
(https://s10.postimg.org/z757d0fux/IMG_0727.jpg)
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Looking good Marc.
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John has inspired me to update.
Waiting for the engine. There have been stupid little problem all along the way. For instance, the pistons (Ross) came with hardly any room for oil to get to the wrist pins to cool them. Would be ok maybe for a race deal built not a street driver. So Dustin has to machine some room into the pistons. Sending them back would take forever again. Then (of course) Edison informed him his shop would be without power for three days while they are upgrading the feed to his complex.
Ah life.
Here are some pics of where it is. You can see evidence of the battle to balance the crankshaft. You see, me being me, I got this crankshaft for free so I figured what the heck, 1Us are great cranks so I’ll use it. Then I went about offset grinding and nitriding the crank to the tune of 600 bucks (you know that’s about what I could get a Scat 4.250 for right ::) ). Then of course I would rather the crank was internally balanced so I had the boys attempt that. Welllllll on a 1U you’d need a generous amount of Mallory ($$$) to deal with that sooooooooo I bought a Centerforce flywheel and had the boys balance the two together. They got it done and I learned a big lesson that I kinda knew I would but sometimes you just have to teach yourself that you’re an idiot. So I have a free 428 crank that cost about 800/900 bucks. Makes sense right ::)
Anyway you builders and experienced guys have a chuckle at my expense. I deserve it. The fun thing is I get to go up and help (or hinder) when I can.
Here’s some pics. BTW type crank turns like butter. The cam is a bit tougher but I’m thinking hey, good oil pressure. Oh and yes, decided not to use the studs in the rear main because of the time and pain in machining for the extra height of the stud. I’m done with time and want to get it together.
(https://s31.postimg.org/3x7af0frf/EC8_A74_EB-20_FC-4_D5_F-8_C19-10966801_C20_F.jpg)
(https://s31.postimg.org/5p099x6u3/CAE60_DA3-1_B07-4622-838_F-_F52_A12_BE236_B.jpg)
(https://s31.postimg.org/61rng3wtn/ADE3057_F-0_F98-4_B68-_BF57-18_E2_D37_A3599.jpg)
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It still sounds cooler to say you've got an offset ground, nitrided, stroker 428 crank :)
That's a bummer on the pistons. I've used Ross a few times, albeit several years ago, and never saw or had that problem. I definitely agree though, there doesn't seem to be enough room for oil to get to the pins.
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LOL
Yeah, I don’t mind showing my undies. Made up my mind along time ago I’m not going to be that asswipe computer smart moron that knows everything about everything.
That does sound cool though. Maybe I should grow my mullet back and put on some shades.
“Hey girls, offset ground, nitrided 428 stroker crank,,,, dig it.”
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That definitely will get you laid ;D...sounds like a scene from
a 70s adult entertainment movie ....Not that I have watched
any.... a friend told me ;D ;D ;D ;D
Right or wrong i would trust a Ford crank more than a
China crank
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Agreed.
Why do I feel like having a drink with damn near every FE guy. 8)
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If you come to the north of Sweden i buy you a drink :D
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So, it sounds like the cam does not turn easily. Did you 'deburr' the cam bearings after they were installed? Often, one burrs up the bearing ends when driving them into the cam tunnel. The sharp knife trick does work to shave a tad off the front edge of each bearing face.
BTW type crank turns like butter. The cam is a bit tougher but I’m thinking hey, good oil pressure.
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Yeah Bob, all deburred. Once it starts turning it’s smooth just tight at first and that’s with no gear on just the cam so no leverage.
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Well, if it's just a tad tight, as they usually are, you should be good to go. And yes, it's a 'feel' thingee as long ago on my first few builds I questioned the initial 'spin it' tightness, then smooth. Thankfully I had a pro check it, said it was fine and I never later questioned the issue. Never did have any cam bearing issues.
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Yeah I’m sure that’s what it is with me. I’m not experienced enough to have a feel yet.
Luckily I have a pro actually keeping an eye on/doing everything. I just get to go up and probably slow things down even more by “helping”.
I’m lucky to have a good relationship with him. Great schooling.
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Well it’s been a long time but I finally got my engine in my garage.
As some of you know it’s been a challenge to get this engine. To wrap it up neatly and not go over the drudgery again I had a bad C scratch block. It was checked out with the normal sonic, pressure and mag but on its second pull on the dyno it popped two pin holes in number 6 right where you wouldn’t put a sonic probe. This block had the cleanest water jackets I’d ever seen. So it had to come apart and a new block had to be used. Yes I could have sleeved it but I would always have that nagging little devil in the back of my brain. That block hurt me bad so I kicked it to the curb and let the scrappers have it. Once it’s cheated on you there’s no going back.
Luckily forum member Mike had recently sold me a beautiful cross bolted block that he was going to use for his race car but decided to go a different way. He sold me the block for a very fair price and that really helped. I am in your debt Mike. Thank you again.
The new block was a smaller bore 390 block and I dare not bore it (yes I’m eternally scared now) so I had to buy a new set of slugs and build a smaller motor. It’s 4x4.130 so I’ve got a 428.
But that’s all behind me now. The new engine ran on the dyno just fine. I was busy so the guys just ran it to 5700 pm. Hp was 478 and climbing, tq was 580ish iirc at 3200? So I’ve got what I wanted, a 500/500 motor that will make a ‘66 mustang do ... well ... you know.
I’ve started to fit the sensors and junk on the engine. Going to have to install it in order to set how I’m going to mount the coils and check fitment of all the accessories.
I’m real busy until January so progress will be slow, but I’m used to that now. ::)
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I’m glad that worked out for you, I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.
I’m Slowly building a stock eliminator car and I needed an engine that could get closer to the allowable .080 over on the bore. After discovering I had a 390 block at 4.12 I knew I needed to bite the bullet and get a BBM iron bock. It’s sitting in the corner of my garage while I accumulate the rest of the pieces to get it running.
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This is a pretty big day.
First time this car has felt a real engine in years. It’s nice to know all my measurements have worked out so far. It’s tight in there between a few things but it works. Steering rack is a bit tight because when I measured the mounts I didn’t include the pan screen. However I may switch racks (or not) we’ll see.
There is no way for me to get the motor and trans in by myself without beating the crap out of paint so I’m going engine, clutch, trans. Luckily the engine is perfectly balanced on the mounts so no jack required to keep it level. This way will also allow me to measure over and over for throw out setup.
Now all I have to do is everything else. Here’s pics.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvGMMKHk/FAA61-ECC-A65-E-434-E-BC4-B-B3-E35-B34-B1-B7.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZsrbn0Z/FFAE734-F-1-FEF-4692-9954-0-F76-A93-DBC1-B.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvhHTV4j/6649-EB35-48-D6-48-D9-B73-A-512-C983-D8-A81.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJ1f8Syq/A289-AD27-40-A6-461-E-A6-E6-94-FBF8832-A42.jpg)
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Oh, about those valve covers. I bought them as working set off of eBay in order to not screw up my nice ones.
Turning out they are the only thing that’s working with my setup.
Not worried though as I’m going to build the coil rack into the top of them so you’re not really going to see them in this form.
Obviously pentroofs are out.
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I'll bet if I trimmed your pentroofs for master cylinder clearance they would fit...
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I'll bet if I trimmed your pentroofs for master cylinder clearance they would fit...
Oooooooow
If you could do that I would buy another set.
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Looks good! That engine sits low, it's going to handle like an animal!
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Looks good! That engine sits low, it's going to handle like an animal!
;)
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In the beginning I was worried about a bigger block in a gen 1, but screw it, it’ll be fun.
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Looking good, Marc. I think Jay may be right on the v/c's. You may be able to fit the pentroofs in if you notch it.
Side note, how's the Fairlane coming along?
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Ugh, the poor Fairlane has been waiting it’s turn.
I just don’t have the room. I thought I could do multiple cars at once but for my sitch it’s not good.
Let’s put it this way. I have plenty to do the rest of my days.
I’ll measure this coming weekend for pentroofs.
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Ok Jay here are the pics and a tape. It seems to me that even if you break through there is plenty of rocker room and I can patch and sandblast the weld to make it right. Whutcha think?
These are for my Fairlane, I’ll pm you about a new set. It’s obvious to me that the engine needs these.
Hey guys what do you think about the finish? I’m kinda diggin’ the nonpolished look. It goes with the rest of the engine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rm8fFTnV/18-ED081-F-4-B56-4000-931-B-332168-C46611.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvvpKjY4/EE2-EFC5-A-BF21-4-D35-90-A9-19-D116-E044-FA.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pTqqmS4D/FB200-F25-1-B78-48-B3-9740-F372-FF602364.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJRR5sBK/C0-C3-A409-B981-4993-B983-5-F746-E9-A5-B13.jpg)
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Hey Marc, yes I think you need those covers. IMO looking at the photo sandblast or polished finish would be ok; you have several polished components that would tie-in. Personally I'd go for polished as they might be easier to keep clean. Bruce
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Thanks Bruce you may be right. Either way it needs real vc’s.
Jay is sending me a notched VC he has as a working piece to check clearance. Then we can know if it has to break through to clear. If it does I ain’t skeerd.
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I would.....shave off in a beveled cut a bunch off the master's top cover. The top doesn't need to be particularly strong either as one only need to look at the formed sheet steel OEM Ford cover to realize it's their to merely prevent the fluid form slopping over the sides.
I'd even venture a thin sheetmetal spacer, shaped like a "C" and slipped between the firewall and master cylinder housing, to angle it over a tad towards the fender side. Can't believe some small angularity would hurt braking.
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Been a long time coming, Marc. It's nice to see you reaching the assembly phases.
I actually like the Ebay covers on there. They kinda fit the 'modern tech' theme of the engine bay. JMO
Either way, your car is gonna be the baddest car around, no matter where you live. 8)
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Thanks Doug. It may end up being what looks best with the coils. My heart lies with the pentroof design though.
Bob I paid to darn much money for that braking system to cut it up. ;D
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Well today is one of those days that try men’s souls.
Was buttoning up the lower front end, snugging up and making sure all was tight.
I put a crows foot on one of the steering rack hydro connectors, crack, oh shit.
Broke the casting on my Ford steering rack. Not that much pressure. Heck it was a crows foot.
I’m thinking it was a bad casting.
Everything back apart. Have to jack up the engine to get the rack out.
Oh well, ordered a new one. ::)
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If building a car like yours was cheap and easy, everybody would do it. Hang in there, Marc :D
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Well today is one of those days that try men’s souls.
Was buttoning up the lower front end, snugging up and making sure all was tight.
I put a crows foot on one of the steering rack hydro connectors, crack, oh shit.
Broke the casting on my Ford steering rack. Not that much pressure. Heck it was a crows foot.
I’m thinking it was a bad casting.
Everything back apart. Have to jack up the engine to get the rack out.
Oh well, ordered a new one. ::)
Well i to have some of those days now and then ::)
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Thanks guys.
Since I’m at a stand still until UPS gets here, I’m getting used to the MS3Pro software. Getting registered and all that gobbledegook.
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Better picture of the casting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xhYRBHH/3-F711765-5-ED8-4-C32-AE12-D31-C7467-B036.jpg)
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It’s raining and I’m bored so I’m looking at this piece of casting.
Question for you metallurgists out there.
Is this shiny spot a void?
(https://i.postimg.cc/ryQ6bSHF/564-C5616-B782-4672-BB4-F-728666-D79-D24.jpg)
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Hard to tell from pictures, sure looks like it could be a void but I have seen quite a few different metal fractures over the years and I don't recall what they call it but the last portion of a joint to fail can do so in a different way and leave a shiny surface behind. Brittle fracture or something like that preceded by fatigue or ductile.
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Got Jays “ugly duckling” valve cover today and wuddya know it fit even with the studs I have installed.
He sent it to me to check the feasibility of of fitting pentroofs next to the brake mc.
It fits fine so it will actually look like an FE in the engine room.
.028 clearance so he’ll have to help me a little more but only in one area.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k514pnLJ/3-F6-F8395-B45-D-4-A3-D-929-E-CC85-BAA987-B5.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6J6yxcj/E37-E1-A67-787-A-4-F0-E-BC0-D-75-E7-F568-CEB7.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4bY1vhj/FCC120-D6-E0-DA-451-D-A71-F-E22-B26-B1-B5-F7.jpg)
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Since the steering rack disaster I got another and installed. It actually fit better than the original. Those old Ford units are pretty bulky.
So now I’m in the middle of plumbing. Waiting for a couple fittings I had to order for the fuel rails..
Underneath is getting close to done. Got the exhaust ceramic chrome coated (not cheap).
Gotta remember to order a drive shaft Monday.
As soon as Jay is ready I’ll send him some dough for the new valve covers. Oops Jays ready.
Then when plumbing is done I’ll jump into finish wiring.
Here’s a pic of where I’m at today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKKW5t8m/FB0-F5-FE9-28-F4-4-B1-F-A2-A6-51-B4-AD373-CC3.jpg)
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I’m getting into wiring again. In order to finish wire the console and engine management system I had to finish the top of the console as there are parts stuck through it.
So here’s how it came out. At the bottom you can see some edge finish I’m thinking about. The sides will be covered in some type of cow.
I’m going to carry the look through the dash, glove box and whatever.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LFxc6js/8-AE593-FC-85-AF-46-A0-B183-6-EE6-EC0-F017-E.jpg)
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It looks great Marc.
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Marc, is that top surface carbon fiber?
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It’s a vinyl carbon fiber look alike wrap.
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Came in to get out of the heat.
I’ll let you guys in on a little problem that my choices have led to. I really did want the pentroof look on this engine. I have a set of Jays coil racks and I thought if we mounted the coil racks on the inside of the vc’s it would look great and be functional. So, as you remember Jay told me he thought he could get the pentroofs to fit next to my mc. He has a VC that he has reshaped in order to get clearance. He sent that to me and I did measurements and pics and sent the lot back to Jay to have him carve up a new set of vc’s. It worked great. Here’s a pic of the new vc with no gasket.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kGRKYMSQ/39-C49690-00-AF-42-C7-86-D4-3-FFEA93-CDC1-A.jpg)
Jay sunk some holes in it in order to mount the coil racks to. In order to clear the bolt housings on the VC exterior he also made some spacers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15m1hgX5/B5413142-B782-462-F-B06-F-CA69546-ABE75.jpg)
Cool right? One problem, when I set them on there they wouldn’t go into place because they ran into that sweet manifold adaptor. Crap. Yes you could do some easy mill work and get rid of the upper edge but that would require taking the adapter off and this engine ain’t coming back apart again until after it runs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXY25DbV/C2151604-8-B32-42-F9-915-D-46-D67623-F712.jpg)
So, I designed some adapters that would let me slide the racks up the VC a little, and since the hood is up there I put an angle in them that will hopefully keep everything underneath.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W485BPpD/C357-E758-504-E-4-D4-D-8435-F3-AAB85984-FD.jpg)
Had to add another 1/4 inch worth of spacing to make everything play together.
Still have some tweaking to do but here they are installed. Nothin’s easy when you’re building custom but we’re getting there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qd3zWmHq/99-C563-C0-F97-B-48-AC-BA17-F371922239-B1.jpg)
As you can see I’ve adapted GT FE as the theme for this deal. Shady has made me up a set of rocker stickers to replace the GT 350 deals.
Never liked sportin’ something it ain’t.
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It's cool to see you stretching the limits of how an FE is typically utilized. I'd really like to do a project like this in the future, use an FE engine but not worry about "stock" or "concourse" or anything like that.
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Looks very nice Marc! 8) 8)
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It’s stretching MY limits, but that’s exactly why I’m doing it.
If it was a carb engine it would be running. I’m just trying to learn. I just hope Jay doesn’t get tired of my stupid questions.
I sent him an email today titled “Wiring hell”.
Thank you very much for the kind words.
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Had a fun day today.
I’m building and laying out the ECU and gauge/alt/ac harnesses. I thought I was going to have to extend the coil wires but thank you, thank you MS3 powers that be. All the wires are long enough to get to the firewall where I will have a bulkhead connector. These are 5 wire coils. Smart coils. But the cool thing is I’ll be able to cut eight wires down to one in some cases (for instance there is a engine or head ground wire that eight wires can join to as one) so the amount of wires will get cleaned up. So today I ran all wires to their termination and got hem all tied together in order to keep the lengths right. Tomorrow I’ll take everything apart and put it on a bench and start to gang together the wires that can be, install the injector trigger wires and start to make it a real harness. Have some woven wire covering coming in from McMaster Carr.
Now that I have an idea of how everything is physically going to play together it is all dawning on me. Couple of light bulbs switched on today.
One more thing I may change is the throttle body from the Holley which is perfectly fine to a new Wilson throttle body. Kind of a funny story. Last year (or was it two years ago) when we ran the manifold and throttle body on Jays mule, I had called Wilson to purchase a tb since I had my manifold modified there. At the time they did not manufacture a 4150 style tb for the street. The gentleman at Wilson suggested I buy the Holley as it was a great/well outfitted/inexpensive tb since they didn’t have one yet. He went on to say that they would be coming out with a model soon but that didn’t help my immediate need. So back to today. They have a really nice new model with all the features of the Holley unit but much shorter. Putting 2 and 2 together they had the Holley there and liked it and wanted to make their new model as good or better. I’ve checked it out and it’s nice and (again big plus) much shorter. I may need that hood room. Also it is black and will fit with my engine look better than the Holley. ::)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nc691TZh/6-EB5-B2-FA-CD42-49-AA-9-E8-F-8-C7-D0-DF48550.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5ygpCGDy/7-C8-DB9-C3-85-A7-42-CE-97-DA-AA65-E9-F9-C669.jpg)
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That is awesome! Nice, clean installation, will look great with those 8 coil wires looping over the valve covers.
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Wow! It is really looking good Marc! Looks like a lot of work everywhere, very cool build all around, I like it! It is really going to be a one of a kind when you are done, looks like you are getting very close now.
One question, I went back and looked but didn't see any mention of your distributor "spud" or delete plug you have there, looks nice! Can you tell me what you did there to get where your at with it? I am sure you cut down a distributor but where did you get the "top hat" or whatever you want to call it? Looks good and clean, I assume there is a roller bearing there? I need to do something along the same lines, and haven't tackled it yet, could use some guidance. Thanks.
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Thanks gents.
The spud. Our friend Mr. Brown is the creator of that little jewel.
Just send him an old one and he will machine it for you. Actually I’m sending him another for a spare. I was going to ask him if he could do a little something with the cap to match it to the adapter and coil racks.
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Thor, I just cut the distributor body off in the lathe, and the shaft also but leave the shaft a little longer. Then I machine a cap that has a counterbore for a sealed bearing, with the ID of the bearing the same as the OD of the shaft. The cap is drilled and the remaining distributor housing is tapped so that they bolt together. I usually just make the caps round and use a regular distributor hold down clamp to hold it in place, but on Marc's I made that oblong top so that it would just bolt into the normal hold down hole in the intake.
Marc, I'm sure I could machine a custom top if you wanted one, but it might be a while before I could get to it...
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That oblong top works perfectly to bolt down.
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I was going to post some pictures of a little progress I made on my mustang, but there is no way I'm following Marcs post.
Your making mine look like an amateur built it. I keep reminding myself if it's a real race car it's not going to be a show car.
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I’ll bet yours is awesome Mike. I’d really like to see it. B’sides race cars are cooler.
But thanks for the positive vibes.
I keep swearing it’s not a show car, I’m gonna drive it and run it. But I’ll prolly hit a show or two ::) Just to finally get to yak with Tommy T. :)
Pulled the mocked up engine harness out and got to building it. Started at the end and worked my way back toward the firewall until all 8 were covered. Then put it back on the car to make sure it still fit. While it was on I could now get an idea where the bulkhead connector would be. Marked it and took it back off the car. Now just waiting for the connector. I really hate to go through that beautiful firewall but I’m going to pop it through at the bottom just before it turns under the car. That way you can’t see it from most views of the engine room.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3V13VVd/57-BB3709-2-EB4-4-BF3-8-FF6-24141-FAEF17-D.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvTgR0S9/F59-E9285-7-AF4-40-D5-A50-B-5-C38229-C5-A3-A.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d03YVFsQ/A13-C0-C77-506-D-4-D0-C-B60-A-963851-D238-E2.jpg)
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Very cool...love the attention to detail...One of my other projects is a 66 Fastback with a 428CJ 4spd..I am on a different road than you tho..Mine looks all oem and I am dealing with shock towers.Along with the day to day challenges come the setbacks..I look forward to seeing the finished product.....Well done.
On a side note ...I agree.I like the valve covers raw.My 68 427 car has Jays adaptor and H/M pent roof covers along with lots of (me) fabricated aluminum parts.I had everything ceramic coated and then I altered the finish so it all has that raw look but is coated...
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One of my other projects is a 66 Fastback with a 428CJ 4spd..I am on a different road than you tho..Mine looks all oem and I am dealing with shock towers.
You are a very brave man.
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Thanks....One of the more polite things I have been called (har har)..As with most of the things we do it comes with its challenges....Cory.
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Cory I would love to see you do a thread on this car. Putting an FE in a first gen is wrought with problems to work out. Not the least of which is why in the first place because of the weight difference. How you deal with that and the fitment/power problems is very interesting to me and I’m sure to most of the guys here.
My view is if it’s not a significant car to start with (like a Shelby or K) then do whatever you want. There are plenty of crappy modified mustangs out there. I did a couple of them as a kid ;)
Raising the bar as you have is a good thing. Would love to see what you’ve done.
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When I am done with it I will...It's actually my brothers car and we have discussed building it for close to 30 years..I did not have the skill set to do it then tho...Its going to make people scratch their heads.The CJ looks all oem(ish).I used all 67/68 FE stuff under the hood like rad,clutch linkage and stuff.Rad cradle has the center of the 67/68 one grafted in.Shock towers are the oem ones that I cut into a dozen pcs and welded all back up.I added two torque boxes.Little changes that people wont see right away other than the WTF when they see the hood open..
The car is also built to not look current but just freshened up.I have had to keep my attention to detail in check..
There is some David Copperfield stuff going on here as well.....Cory
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Very cool
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I’ll bet yours is awesome Mike. I’d really like to see it. B’sides race cars are cooler.
But thanks for the positive vibes.
I keep swearing it’s not a show car, I’m gonna drive it and run it. But I’ll prolly hit a show or two ::) Just to finally get to yak with Tommy T. :)
Pulled the mocked up engine harness out and got to building it. Started at the end and worked my way back toward the firewall until all 8 were covered. Then put it back on the car to make sure it still fit. While it was on I could now get an idea where the bulkhead connector would be. Marked it and took it back off the car. Now just waiting for the connector. I really hate to go through that beautiful firewall but I’m going to pop it through at the bottom just before it turns under the car. That way you can’t see it from most views of the engine room.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3V13VVd/57-BB3709-2-EB4-4-BF3-8-FF6-24141-FAEF17-D.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvTgR0S9/F59-E9285-7-AF4-40-D5-A50-B-5-C38229-C5-A3-A.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d03YVFsQ/A13-C0-C77-506-D-4-D0-C-B60-A-963851-D238-E2.jpg)
Yak with Tommy-T? You think very highly of yourself! ;)
Seriously, I do love car shows. Yours is a great example of a car that can go to a show and go to the track. Something to do all summer long. I have plenty of track time under my belt, but I break a lot less parts at car shows. A driving your car to the track and beating someone who has trailered theirs is SO much fun. Another problem for me at the track is that I love to see all the cars run and sitting in the staging lanes with yer helmet and jacket on and not seeing them run is a drag (pun intended).
Of course sitting in a long slow line getting into a car show is a drag too. I just love to YAK with everybody at car shows.
This covi-flu thing is making me crazy. I've already missed a few shows that I signed up for, and the Nitro Revival at Irwindale was moved from this month to October.
Geeze!
Your car looks great! See you this summer...hopefully!
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I’ll bet yours is awesome Mike. I’d really like to see it. B’sides race cars are cooler.
But thanks for the positive vibes.
I keep swearing it’s not a show car, I’m gonna drive it and run it. But I’ll prolly hit a show or two ::) Just to finally get to yak with Tommy T. :)
Pulled the mocked up engine harness out and got to building it. Started at the end and worked my way back toward the firewall until all 8 were covered. Then put it back on the car to make sure it still fit. While it was on I could now get an idea where the bulkhead connector would be. Marked it and took it back off the car. Now just waiting for the connector. I really hate to go through that beautiful firewall but I’m going to pop it through at the bottom just before it turns under the car. That way you can’t see it from most views of the engine room.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3V13VVd/57-BB3709-2-EB4-4-BF3-8-FF6-24141-FAEF17-D.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvTgR0S9/F59-E9285-7-AF4-40-D5-A50-B-5-C38229-C5-A3-A.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d03YVFsQ/A13-C0-C77-506-D-4-D0-C-B60-A-963851-D238-E2.jpg)
I use shrink hose on the end of that ....harnes sock or whatever it is called ::) so it stay in place and not fray
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Thanks for that Heo
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Love your build, absolutely beautiful. Curious about your EFI...Are you running your injectors batch fire or sequential? I did sequential on my FAST system, but that required a cam position sync signal that is generated by FAST's proprietary distributor. So i figure you're either running batch or your ECU does something pretty nifty...
Phil
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Marc is running full sequential EFI. He has a crank sensor and a cam sensor.
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Where is the cam sensor, Jay? I don't see a connector on the distributor plug.
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Here it is.
Thank you for the kind words.
The link to Jays set up thread is below.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3RpGf4z6/E8072-BE3-C475-4-A7-B-B8-F3-47-F1-D68-F4-A62.jpg)
Here’s the target
(https://i.postimg.cc/4d81QggF/9-DA13-ED4-4-CE0-4542-8-E04-BB35-D198-A633.jpg)
Here’s the thread where Jay explained how he set his up.
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4760.0
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Thanks! I completely forgot about that thread... There's just way too much quality information on this site to keep track of!
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Just a quick update.
Really big day today. After weeks of wiring I finally got far enough to fire up the system. I’m waiting for a couple resistors to show up (damn shutdown) then I’ll have it fully wired. I was able to program the computer for a while then it got pissed at me that I didn’t have the wiring finished so I had to hang it up. Just two more connections.
But the headline is, IT ALL WORKS. I’m really happy with going overboard the way I did and installing circuit breakers and different legs of power.
It’s making everything very simple.
So now it’s a slow march toward engine fire up. I’m going to check each system as I go and make sure all is well.
Can’t believe it all works. 8)
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That’s great Marc. Sounds like a happy day.
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Just a little update.
I’m in computer hell right now (never had this problem with carbs ;D ). After my initial tuning session I have lost communication between my computer and the ECU. I’ll figure it out, it’s probably something stupid. But in the meantime I’ve been getting all the systems like brakes and clutch and, and, and, up and charged or together so that all is ready to fire up.
It’s funny when you get to this stage. All the stupid stuff you’ve done during the build come back to haunt you. Example. Remember that wiring setup I did in my trunk? It’s really cool and has helped immensely but, I made one mistake. I’ve wired Ford solenoids many times (As I’m sure you all have) so that was my go to way to wire this deal. However there is one thing that I and probably a lot of us don’t think about. And at first I was totally at a loss when I went to turn over the engine to check start mode and nothing happened. What??? I done this over and over, what’s up? Well it took me a while of checking current with a light and everything is hooked up correctly. WTH? Thought about it and in the middle of the night it hit me. Ford solenoids ground through the bracket. Never have to think about that when you mount them on a fender. ::) Where I mounted it there was not a good ground. The aluminum mount I made was powder coated. The only chance the bracket had was through the bolts that held it to the bracket. But the bottom of my mount was also powder coated. No ground. Ran a wire and viola, engine turnover.
It’s the little details.
I’ve progressed far enough to finally clean all the cut off wire and tools out of the interior and get it kinda together so here’s a pic of the control room. Sorry it’s bright sun out in front so it’s flare time.
Getting closer. :)
(https://i.postimg.cc/90s7nb4f/B561316-B-2755-4-D9-C-A2-FF-43-FE26-EF6-FF8.jpg)
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Looks great....I have a TKO 600 in my 68.Tell me about the shifter stick and knob...That's looks like the stick I want..Resembles the comp plus stick...
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Thanks
12 inch Hurst stick right off Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-5388022
Lots of lengths to check out.
The knob too.
BTW the bend and length of the shifter fit perfectly. I’m a big dude, I’ve moved my seat stand back 4 inches and two inches lower.
Edit
I might be fos on the knob. It may have come with the trans, can’t remember.
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Perfect....I will have a look......Thanks
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This is going to be cool! Can't wait to see it running.
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Finally found the computer problem.
You computer guys may like this.
It was a combination of input from Jay and the guys at the manufacturer. Jay thought it may be a fuse problem and one of the guys at Hoffman thought it sounded like a voltage problem. It was, but the way to the answer was way around the mountain.
First the ECU had three good green lights so it was fired up. But the computer would NOT find it. Why? I’m tied directly into the ECU via a usb cable. I completely re installed my computer and all the software. Reloaded all the drivers. Had a friend come over with his computer in case mine was junk. Nothing worked. The answer was within both inputs from the guys. Jay had asked me to try measuring the output voltage on one of the wires out. It should be 5 volts. It was only 3.3 volts. So a voltage problem. The ECU is fired, why is there an output problem.
I started measuring voltage from the battery to the complete other end. I got to the input from the battery to the ECU, it read 3.3 volts, wth. It should be 13. On a whim I pulled the fuse, but why would I, it was powered up. The fuse was blown. No way that the ECU was getting 13 volts. I replaced the fuse and viola, we had power. Checked the voltage at the output wire I had checked before and had 5 volts. Fired up the ECU and the computer found it and talked to it again. But why?
The answer lies with the anatomy of the ECU. In the directions it says to run the ECU and the fuel pump off the same relay. Of course being an over builder and after talking with Jay I ran a separate relay for each. Inside the ECU the fuel pump and ECU share some diodes and other structures so when the fuse blew on the ECU side I still had juice flowing through the fuel side so they where in essence sharing the juice.
So, the ECU looked like it was fired up when in fact it was not.
So, now it’s just confirming operations and heading toward fire up.
I am waiting for a shroud and fan set up for the radiator. That’s a whole other story. No room. I’ll show the fix.
Anyway we’re getting there.
I did this to learn and man alive am I learning.
Sigh.
Carbs are so easy ::)
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You guys have done an outstanding job.....of convincing me to stick with carburetors..lol
Glad you found the issue, Marc. "Ghost" voltage has caused me many headaches in the past, on all kinds of equipment. While that wasn't exactly your problem, stuff like that can be a real PITA to track down. I still can't figure out why I'm going through a distributor pickup about once a year. I'm convinced it's because the MSD uses a Chevy cap design. That's my story anyway.
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I hear you Doug.
It’s going to be interesting/fun to tune this deal and run it on computer.
I think where I will end up is that carbs and computers both have they’re place.
I’m not meaning to throw shade at the computer, it’s just my learning curve is huge but I have to say I’m enjoying myself because I have the time to be cautious and learn.
My comment that carbs are easy is just because I’m familiar with them. I’m not familiar with running on computers but I’m getting there. I have to say I’ve had my carb issues in the past also.
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You guys have done an outstanding job.....of convincing me to stick with carburetors..lol
See I'm the opposite! Marc's project has made my brain start churning about finally building this Kenne Bell blower motor I've been dreaming about for 5 years. After my '62 is complete and out of my workshop, I think my next project will be an engine only, no vehicle. A dyno queen project.
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Experience tells me that, if you ever have computer problems with your setup, find the nearest 10 year old and they will likely figure it out...lol
I'm just one of those types who's unduly paranoid about having a breakdown and having to leave my car someplace. So simplicity rules in my book. I like all the advantages of fuel injection and admire the guys who go that route, but not being able to diagnose and fix something on the side of the road keeps me from wanting to go that route myself. I do love projects like yours though.
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I was just thinking about this yesterday. Hot day in the Minneapolis area, about 90 degrees and humid. I parked the 68 Mustang with the 428CJ and the Holley HP carb down at a local shop and went in to buy some things. Came out 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. Cranked and cranked for 30-40 seconds, pedal to the floor, and finally it coughed once, caught, and then died right away. Had to restart it 3 times before it would stay running. The car has an electric fuel pump and a return style fuel system, but it was obviously flooding from boiling fuel in the carb bowls.
It would have never happened with EFI. I can't wait to swap to an EFI system on that car...
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I was just thinking about this yesterday. Hot day in the Minneapolis area, about 90 degrees and humid. I parked the 68 Mustang with the 428CJ and the Holley HP carb down at a local shop and went in to buy some things. Came out 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. Cranked and cranked for 30-40 seconds, pedal to the floor, and finally it coughed once, caught, and then died right away. Had to restart it 3 times before it would stay running. The car has an electric fuel pump and a return style fuel system, but it was obviously flooding from boiling fuel in the carb bowls.
It would have never happened with EFI. I can't wait to swap to an EFI system on that car...
But it started. One bad sensor and you would have been stranded.
I realize there are a thousand things that can strand a car, I just don't like adding to that list. :)
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Experience tells me that, if you ever have computer problems with your setup, find the nearest 10 year old and they will likely figure it out...lol
I'm just one of those types who's unduly paranoid about having a breakdown and having to leave my car someplace. So simplicity rules in my book. I like all the advantages of fuel injection and admire the guys who go that route, but not being able to diagnose and fix something on the side of the road keeps me from wanting to go that route myself. I do love projects like yours though.
Im the same that way, i have never left a car stranded
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See I'm the opposite! Marc's project has made my brain start churning about finally building this Kenne Bell blower motor I've been dreaming about for 5 years. After my '62 is complete and out of my workshop, I think my next project will be an engine only, no vehicle. A dyno queen project.
That sounds like fun.
Speaking of brain churning, I’ll show you my inspiration for going this way. Even though mine is not close in power it’s something to aspire to.
This engine is to me one of the most bad ass deals I’ve ever seen. Go to the dyno session and listen to it scream. It’s an ungodly sound.
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=168.0
I hope the owner doesn't mind me using his picture. ::)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxXzfwvZ/76175-C9-C-45-DE-4-D5-B-AEA5-0-B1363-C8-D340.jpg)
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ITS ALIVE
Then it blew a fuse and I didn’t have another. So I’ll get some video tomorrow.
It ran twice before the fuse. The first time I didn’t even expect. Just finished solving a problem and gave it a quick check and the damn thing ran.
I had been yakkin with Jay so I called him and he heard it run so it happened. ;D
Went shoot a quick vid and it blew a fuse. It’s messing with me.
Anyway it sounds wonderful. And loud.
I’ll figure out why it’s blowing a fuse and it will bend to my will.
Stay tuned.
Went back yesterday evening out to find why it blew a fuse.
I’m an idiot.
Somehow during the process I transposed the fuel fuse and the ECU fuse. The fuel system needs more amperage and since I got them backwards I had a small fuse in the power hungry fuel side and a large fuse in the not power hungry ECU side.
I have each relay labeled but not the fuses. So I somehow didn’t track the wire correctly and got fuses mixed up.
I’ll label them today.
Self inflicted wound. Dumbass.
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Looking forward to that video, Marc! 8)
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Here you go Jay.
Sorry you have to watch my leg a lot while I peruse what’s going on but such is the nature of first starts, or second.
https://youtu.be/Nuj_-EhDpw4
Now to get to tuning.
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Marc, check your MAP sensor settings. At idle you are showing 100 KPa (the number on the left side of the VE table), which is basically atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold. At idle you should have vacuum, maybe 50 KPa or around there somewhere. You may have a setting wrong, or you may have the vacuum line connected wrong, or something. 100 KPa means that the ecu thinks you are at wide open throttle, with full atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold. In other words, zero vacuum.
Sounds great in any case. I'm looking forward to the walk-around video, want to see those valve covers, coils, and plug wires! Good luck with the tuning - Jay
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There you go.
Map sensor hooked up ::) oops
Lots more tuning to do.
I tell you what guys. If I can put this system together ANYBODY can. Because I am an electronic moron. But I’m a moron that can learn.
https://youtu.be/80xofdhEW98
Hmm, good name for a band. Electronic moron.
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That's awesome, Marc!! Sounds nice and nasty, and sure seems responsive to those short throttle blips. And considering everything you've done and gone through, a couple of minor mistakes is pretty darned good, IMO. Can't wait to see the car out and running.
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Thanks Doug
Yes throttle response is great. Those vids are the 3rd and 4th time it fired. Yesterday for the first and second time the system was unstable. I had just finished wiring and gave the key a turn to check and the damn thing fired up the first time.
I had an issue blowing fuses as I alluded to before but I couldn’t find a short. I called the factory and told them what was happening and how I had it set up. I also told them that if I increased the amperage on the fuse say from 2 amp to 5 amp the fuse wouldn’t blow but I was scared to do that. They told me that the MSD capacitor that I had in line to give clean power to the ECU draws a bunch of power real quick on power up to charge itself up. That initial charge up was probably blowing through the fuse at low amperage. They had no problem with leaving the 5 amp fuse in line as the ECU itself has its own fusing. In talking on the phone with Jay about it he asked if I had the capacitor before or after the fuse. I had it installed after. My initial reasoning was that it was to keep the power for the ECU clean so I installed it on the ECU’ s circuit which meant after the fuse. Jay said that he installed all his before the fuse and had no problems.
Ok so I went back to work and turned the system on, poof, blew the 5 amp fuse. So I took it apart and re wired the capacitor in front of the fuse and put a small fuse back in it. Viola, stable.
But the upshot of all this is that mechanically everything is good and solid. My planning, wiring and the mechanics of setting the engine timing (Which I worried about at first) came out great. Whew. My little mistakes are just learning mistakes and that’s good.
I pity my rear tires when it gets on the road.
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Awesome! The exhaust note sounds great.
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How cool it sounds great hope mine sounds that good.
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Dude, that is SO cool. I just love the looks of the coil packs and individual plug wires running over the valve covers. Congrats on a job well done!
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Thank you guys
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I probably missed it, or just forgot, but what is the silver tube for on the drivers side inner panel? It looks like a mini-accusump.
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Steering reservoir.
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Here’s one after making some changes.
I’m looking to get idle perfect but I’m still learning the system. Prolly gonna take a bit but thats ok. You can hear it search a bit.
I must be getting confident though I bolted the hood on and I’m gonna hang the doors this weekend.
https://youtu.be/vtuRsFF_8Fs
Oh yeah
The reason I had time to take a vid is that I was waiting for my fans to come on as I had just wired them. They are activated by the ECU. They checked out and ran when I put power to them but they didn’t come up by the ECU so I’ve got some figuring out to do.
Nothings easy, but it’s fun.
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Sounds and looks great Marc....I should be starting( as in firing up) the 66 428CJ project in the next month...Little calmer than your endeavor tho.....Well done..
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The idle is sounding really good, Marc. What mufflers did you use?
I'd be nervous about those hard fuel lines sticking up in the middle of the trunk though. Do you have any plans to protect them?
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Flowmaster 40s Doug. I’ve always liked how they sound.
I know they drive some folks crazy but I like ‘em.
About the trunk, ain’t nothing going in there. If I ever do I’d put a floor in cut out around them. But no plans for that now.
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Man I’ve had a really fun morning problem solving and learning.
Spent the early part of the morning learning the MS3Pro. There are a few guys on YouTube that put out courses really, on how to set it up and figure out how to get your car to run well.
I had a problem getting my fans to turn on. The programming in the ECU is easy but they still wouldn’t come on. So it’s wiring right? Went back and checked the voltage on both sides of every connection. Found my mistake. It was buying the relay kit from Derale. Should have made my own. They install a diode in the switched 12v wire. They must do it for their switch systems for some reason I don’t know. But, it wouldn’t let voltage through to fire the fans. Trashed ‘em rewired and fans fired. Hazzaw!
This was all after Jay had to remind/school me on how the ECU actually works after my first wire up.
So, the upshot is I’m learning a boatload of stuff that was way out of my realm before.
AND
My darn car is really starting to run nicely.
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Getting details done for the street. Ya know like seats, lights, air cleaner, hang doors (try that by yourself), little stuff. ;D
Speaking of air cleaners. I have barely any clearance. The scoop does afford me a chance though. I got one of these Ed triangle deals and darn if it don’t work. It’s mounting system is a bit hinky though. It’s a bar that spans the throat that is held down by nut. Only problem for me is that it’s inside the whole deal and the vision of a nut coming loose and heading down into my new engine is a no starter. So I am using a bolt and a nylock nut under the bar to lock everything in place so nothing can take a bad trip.
I had to hack off a half inch of the base so it would make it and it still clears the throttle linkage.
I’m not sure about the looks of it but for now it does it’s job.
One other job is fabbing a cover for my headlight and fan relay board that I mounted in the old battery compartment. The scribbled in area will be some type of screen to allow air flow and hopefully look good.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Pqxsg3rC/83742-E14-E79-A-4078-A182-CCD8-A36-C89-CB.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8mMT4cB/95-D8-C216-C651-487-A-915-C-526-F771-C5-D2-E.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hGPcS4MP/C1934-ACF-665-B-4362-9-C93-190-C1017-A8-BA.jpg)
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Marc, a brushed aluminum cover with some Windows would where you would rivet either some light expanded metal or screen for ventilation might look good there. Maybe something to match the Ed air cleaner? McMaster sells many types of rubber molding that you could use on the outside edges.
Happy 4th to all!
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Pqxsg3rC/83742-E14-E79-A-4078-A182-CCD8-A36-C89-CB.jpg)
17 year old me nearly lost a 75 Ford pickup due to a carb fire because of one of these. I got a sneeze through the carb and the foam caught on fire instantly. Be careful! :)
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Interesting
Edit
Well after some snooping around the web this air cleaner may be a non run only cap. For right now I’ll take it off for running.
There are plenty of stories about them breaking down and dropping pieces in or catching fire.
Thanks for the heads up drdano.
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I've got one of those air cleaners on my 68 fastback and I too have had issues with backfires causing the foam to melt and drop into the carb. Never had it catch on fire though. Marc, if you get your EFI system tuned right I don't think it will be a problem. My issues have always been carb related, for example with the car sitting for a week or so, you have to pump the accelerator pump a few times to get the fuel in the engine to fire, and if you go too much on that you can get a backfire. With your direct port EFI system I think this is much less likely.
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I agree with you but I’ma keep lookin’ for a better deal.
I’m not in love with how it looks but it does serve a purpose right now.
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Got a wild hare/hair to polish today. Dunno why, just felt like something different.
I’m feeling like I’ll be driving it this coming week.
Gotta get it registered and get a windshield.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TY0YhHyY/1-A56-D79-D-1682-47-FF-AECF-AA5-E65-AFB92-A.jpg)
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Marc...was just rereading everything (well almost) and was wondering.Did you or anybody else add torque boxes to your car..The one I am building is far less tech and far less HP but I added torque boxes on both sides and weld in frame connectors...
On my 68 (427) it used to pop the glove box open when you got on it in 2nd gear.That was with frame connectors..Engine is now up by aprox 80-100HP more but chassis is totally redone..
None the less..great looking car and well done.......Cory
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No torque boxes Cory.
My train of thought was that with all the frame stiffening and roll bar install they wouldn’t be needed.
Guess I’ll see when I grab second. ;D
I did use that space on the driver side to mount my electric brake set up.
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There you go...I forgot about the roll bar..
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Let it out of the cage today.
Was gonna drive it but the clutch wasn’t right so back upon stands it went.
Meanwhile here’s what it looks like so far.
Edit
Issues you can see. Fit and finish.
The headlight covers and buckets are beat to hell and don’t line up anymore. The buckets are bent and split. New ones needed.
The fiberglass hood is a pita. I’ve got a steel one and will prolly do some vent and scoop fab work on it.
The front valence is gonna get cut on a bit for cooling.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsvkxG68/4-C92-CDFB-AB0-A-4-D05-B60-A-B85-F7-DA9-BEB9.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4Mg8zrX/580-B860-E-9923-4469-80-D3-7802-CA5-B2-BBC.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gm22Mfx7/ECB96568-1-E55-4-F12-B01-E-93998-E8624-D6.jpg)
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That is a cool ride, nice to see a first generation Mustang with an FE. Keep after it and you will get the details squared away. What color red is that?
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Porsche 84A
What do y’all think of just the GTFE with no stripe.
I may pinstripe something around it but I love the simplicity of it.
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Car looks great it must feel good to get her outside. My 2 cents ( no stripe) looks great the way it is.
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Marc...are those repo or oem fenders..The buckets always fit that poorly on the repo fenders.I managed to find oem fenders (had repo's) for the one I am doing..
Hood fits like most Shelby's.I have a dynacorn one on the car.Inner metal full frame and fiberglass outer skin.Just put the fenders back on yesterday so not all fit up yet.
Nice to see it out side......
The dual quads on the edelbrock manifold have been pulled off.It was never my idea (its my brothers car)I replaced it with a F-427 and a 780 Holley with the fuel up the left side and a lemans tube..
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They’re oem fenders.
The problem with the buckets is age and abuse. The castings have split and are just in bad shape. I’ve cleaned them up as good as possible but one has a broken top rail and locating pin. It’s understandable, I’m cool with it, it’s been apart for a long time.
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I have a broken casting on one of the fender extensions..Going to try and work with it..This car came north across the border and was taken apart about 15 years ago.Parts have been kicking around and in boxes for a very long time..Lots got lost,went missing or broken..And of course one of those so called car shops like you see on TV got their hands on it....I don't think I need to say anymore...
I'm guessing the car was built new for a lady...It was a red,6cyl,auto with power steering and power brakes...Yee ha
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I kind of like the stripes on the side, I was thinking about factory lime green for my car then I switched to red. Today I'm wanting to go with blue. Yikes I need some help.
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Yikes I need some help.
LOL
Thus the name of this thread Mike. We are mostly all stricken with the same disease.
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I'm kind of partial to stripes myself. Can you tell ;D
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/68Mustang1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/68Mustang2.jpg)
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Did you paint that Jay?
It looks great.
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I had the lower stripes on the 68 but didn't put them back on when it got repainted..I removed the rocker trim this time and thought the stripes would look out of place..
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Did you paint that Jay?
It looks great.
I painted it in my booth, but a friend of mine gets credit for the bodywork.
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Turbohunter Your car is looking great, We just put the windows in Mine and it made such a difference, it almost makes them look done. Leny
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Lots going on here today.
Can’t tell you how great it feels.
https://youtu.be/8ByKUjIB4fg
My brother in law was excited too. :o
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Outstanding! Looks beautiful
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Without a doubt, you have got to be the coolest neighbor that a person could have ;)
The car looks and sounds awesome!
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I have decided that I MUST HAVE a 65-66 fastback 8)
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They ARE beautiful aren’t they?
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Here’s the other vid.
Learned a couple things from this vid. Brake lights aren’t working and I have to clean my driveway. ::)
Just shows I have old cars. ;D
Oh yeah one more thing. I can’t go any lower.
https://youtu.be/SzDT_XtpFU4
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Thought I’d comment on the injection since some of you guys may consider it.
Is it more difficult than a carburetor? Yes. If you consider building wiring harnesses hard. I don’t. I actually had a great time doing it. It takes longer than doing a carb system but the amount of learning you get is, well, a lot.
And is it worth it in the end. Heck yes. The car actually started the first time before I expected it to. The tuning part of it is a lot to learn but if you go through the procedures in the manual it becomes clearer. I don’t have it all down yet but my car is sounding/running wonderful.
Just take your time and work through each section.
And it looks spectacular under the hood.
It also doesn’t hurt to have the mind of Mr. Brown on the other end of the phone. Thank you Jay.
And I’ll say it again.
I’m an idiot 8)
If I can do it, anybody can do it.
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Big thumbs up here 8) 8) That car looks and sounds awesome!
The soundtrack definitely does not match the video of an early Mustang fastback rolling by...
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Looks great, Marc! Bet it feels good to finally drive it. I just took mine around the block for the first time in 4 years from what was supposed to be a mild rebuild of a tired old 390... ::)
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That's awesome! What's next then?
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What's next then?
Thanks guys, it feels great to get it done.
What’s next is going to center on the Fairlane. I’ve got a BBM block sitting here and a 4.375 forged crank. The possibilities are many.
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Yep, a Ford guy lives at your house!
Like my dearly departed daddy used to say, "a picture of a Ford would leak oil".
What area do you live in? That church on the corner looks familiar.
All your stuff is bitch'n. I've been work'n like mad on my Comet. Since it looks like all car stuff is on hold until at least next summer, I hope to have something worthy to go cruising with you.
Cool, man!
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If it ain’t leakin’ it ain’t got oil in it. ;D
Sherman way and Corbin in the valley.
Man I’m ready for a cruise.
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I know right where you are. Not far from the old Winnetka drive in movies. I grew up in Sunland-Tujunga, up in the foothills.
My wife grew up at Tampa and Chatsworth.
Maybe we can go to the Galpin Ford car show next year. I was signed up for the Irwindale Nitro Reunion that's been moved to October, but I don't see that happening.
Anyway, keep plugging away. Your running stock is very cool!
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If it ain’t leakin’ it ain’t got oil in it. ;D
Sherman way and Corbin in the valley.
Man I’m ready for a cruise.
Not too long a haul from me either. I'm in Long Beach.
Like Tommy, my stuff has been slowed down a lot! I'm getting back to making parts for an FE-related project soon...
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Well today is the day that the mustang comes out of the garage and the Fairlane goes in.
Of course I drove it around in the neighborhood a bit. Sorry neighbors ;D
It hooks really nice.
Still waiting for my plates from our wonderfully efficient DMV. ::)
C’mon
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCLY7cxp/91-E91345-D44-D-4263-A005-54437-DB54-DDD.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yNkLrLDm/C78-A1-BFA-C82-C-4208-8296-D19260291081.jpg)
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That looks awesome!
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Yes indeed! It also has the go to back up that aggressive stance. I expect to see some "kills" painted on the door in the near future.
(https://static2.stuff.co.nz/1308085016/213/5146213.jpg)
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Thanks guys. I’m kinda thrilled with it.
That’s an awesome idea Mr. Conley. A bunch of little bow tie stickers like the rising suns on the plane.
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Thanks guys. I’m kinda thrilled with it.
That’s an awesome idea Mr. Conley. A bunch of little bow tie stickers like the rising suns on the plane.
Bowties and Mopars for sure, but in LA these are much more fun to humiliate:
(https://www.stancenation.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/MG_6348-1500x1000.jpg)
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LOL, I agree.
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Looking good Marc. I like the stance too, just right. Are you going back to work soon or still on hiatus?
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We’ve started back up on Jeopardy and I fill in on Wheel.
The Voice is back also but I haven’t been doing it as it’s dates conflicted with Jeopardy which is my number one priority.
So the biz is coming back slowly which has been fine with me. Could use a couple more days a month just to not dip into savings.
All in all I’m loving the time to work on the cars.
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Looks even better with that pickup in the background!
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Well that’s weird. I started to feel some play in the rear end. And the pinion yoke started making contact underneath. Got it back in the driveway and found that the bushings in the four link were disintegrating. Called to get some replacements and they asked how old the bushings were. I honestly couldn’t remember how long ago I bought the kit but it was a long time ago. They said yeah that old material ended up being garbage. New stuff is much better.
I’m just glad I haven’t romped on it yet. Had a feeling.
The only time I can remember plastic or this type of material (I know it’s not plastic) breaking down was in the instrument panels of ‘76ish Ford trucks. The instrument buckets used to actually dissolve into dust. Kinda like these bushings are doing (maybe it is plastic).
Anyway, new bushings on the way.
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Turbo Your car looks fantastic Love it, some day Mine will be done brakes and wiring, Leny Mason
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Thanks Leny
I dig your car also. Can’t wait to see it done.
It does take some time doesn’t it?
Case in point, today I’m working on the Fairlane’s brake system doing all the plumbing from mc to line lock and proportioning valve. Got it all done and didn’t like the loop in one of the lines. Do it over ::)
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Marc, post some pics of that brake line. I just started plumbing my mustang from new mc to proportioning valve and I’m trying to figure where to put the line loc. I’m also thinking of crossing over to the passenger side at the front of the car instead of the fire wall. Your mustang came out great and I’m sure the Fairlane will also.
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Got to replacing bushings today. Easy job on a lift, not so much on your back but I consider it my workout for the day.
Still kind of amazed at how these things gagged. They were old but.......
(https://i.postimg.cc/9X8JZZsm/BDAA11-D9-E28-C-4078-9-F99-CE32-FD1-EF994.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hs84MKQz/27-F69-E09-87-A5-424-E-9-E33-E547-EC494-F1-E.jpg)