FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: fairlaniac on March 06, 2022, 10:57:41 AM
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I did the deadly sin last year. I only had Right Stuff available at the time. Also there was a post I was part of on a similar topic but can't find it. So sorry for the repeat question.
Any tips on popping of an intake sealed with Right Stuff? I also have a thin smear around all ports. I have a nice grove under the front on the intake. I was able to get under there with a curved carpet blade and pull out most of the sealant. I'm just not comfortable with prying on the intake at the front left corner. It get thin around the distributor opening. Heads and intake are aluminum so I'm trying to not gouge everything up.
The pry bar is just a little thin thing used to also clean the gap. It bends too easily anyway. I'll wait for advice before I pull out the large pry bars.
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/intake-sealant.jpg)
Thanks,
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Been where you are. I've used wood wedges, in fact 2 wedges stacked on one another. In the photo at the yellow arrows, wedge each spot and work back and forth tapping the wedges in.
The harder the wood, oak and such, the better.
I use a razor knife to cut through the front and rear china walls, before working the wedges in.
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Drive a thin putty knife into all the areas you put the adhesive. A thin knife won't mar up the surfaces and usually goes in pretty easy.
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I'm not certain about the exact machining configuration of your particular intake, but using the three interior bolt -down locations of the intake you could fab a 3/16 to ¼ thick contact plate for the cylinder head face, insert a ⅜ cap screw through the intake bolt hole while threading a flat washer and nut onto the screw in the space between the manifold and head. Holding the nut from rotating, run the ⅜ cap screw in until it touches the fabricated plate on the cylinder head with the nut/washer firmly against the underside of the intake manifold. Set up all three positions on one side of the intake and "slowly", using the bolts as jacks-turning no more than a ¼ turn at a time lift the intake enough to break the Right-Stuff seal. Method is simply a general description and may need to be adjusted for individual characteristics of your particular manifold. I think you will be amazed how easily it comes off when the pressure is applied slowly and evenly. To me, driving in shims or wedges is just a prelude to disaster, but you are not asking for opinions. Good luck.
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how about a few heat lamps for a time usually some heat softens most glued parts with menards wood shims they have small taper-good luck - john
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I'm a 1" putty knife guy. Tap it in with a small hammer. As a matter of fact I just did it today on a timing cover.
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one of those little oscillating tools works great if you have one. Get in where you can with a corner
If not, carpet knife, putty knife, etc
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If you have already cut through the silicone on the china walls with a putty knife or blade and it's still stuck, try a pry bar. I have had good success prying in the open area between ports, such as between #5 & #6 port in your picture. Go directly above the head stud to the machined area of the head and with the curved tip up to the intake, give it a little pressure. Try this in a couple areas on each side. I have had good luck popping the intake when using TA-31 this way. I would rather not wedge something in the rail area and gouge either the block or intake. Prying in the areas I mentioned will not hurt anything because it's not a surface being sealed.
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Thank you. some good ideas for sure.
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Someone did that on the original iron FE intake on our old 428 engine. We removed it a few years ago while diagnosing an issue with the original engine in our car. That intake did not want to come off.
I built a 2x4 frame, wrapped the ends in towels and put it across the shock towers. I then used a putty knife and thin wood shims, tapping each one on opposing sides. As it started to lift up, I use a large pry-bar against that 2x4 frame for leverage. Eventually it made this pleasant "bubble-wrap" sort of sound and the intake released.
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I like Right Stuff but dang it holds on. I use a nail bar just like that one. But I hook my cherry picker up first and put a few hundred pounds on it. If I have time, I leave the weight on for a few hours or overnight and walk away. Most of the time when I come back to check on it, the intake is hanging loose on the cherry picker.
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my neighbor pulled a 428 out of my comet a few years ago.i had the intake bolts out and he did not notice it.never fear i had the right stuff on it and it came out trans and all without pulling loose.i had to use razor knifes everywhere i could reach.then i used my engine puller to put pressure on it while i trimmed.i got it off.
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my neighbor pulled a 428 out of my comet a few years ago.i had the intake bolts out and he did not notice it.never fear i had the right stuff on it and it came out trans and all without pulling loose.i had to use razor knifes everywhere i could reach.then i used my engine puller to put pressure on it while i trimmed.i got it off.
Wow!
That would have been quite the time bomb crossing the radiator support!
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Been there, done that. On my Fairlane the back of the intake is within an inch of the firewall. I could not get it off. I hooked up the engine hoist to try to lift it up.... had the front wheels come off the ground with the intake only held by Right Stuff! I sawed the front wall with a knife easy enough but the back was a long ordeal using knife that I bent 90 degrees at the end.
Then there was that time with the aluminum 9" third member... sheesh It seemed to be the only stuff that sealed synthetic fluid but when i had to change the ring and pinion it was not coming out even after hammering all the studs into the housing.. I probably could have raced the car with the third member only glued in.
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Right Stuff= Windshield Urethane... Will never use that stuff again on a engine.
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Black RTV is all I use for that, and it sticks things down pretty dang good.
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Back together again and with TA-31.
Thanks,