FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: AlanCasida on January 18, 2021, 06:45:49 PM
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Header flanges almost done
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I usualy chuck something up in the lathe and make it the right diameter
Never thought about that ::) :-[
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I never thought of a trailer hitch ball, but used a piece of bar stock I taper-turned to the right size. First headers I ever built were for the blown 312 in my '54 Customline. (The welds were hell for strong, but I have to confess, somewhat lumpy. :))
KS
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Great idea!
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Perfect solution!
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I agree, well done Alan.
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Stub tubes are a waste of time unless you are making step headers that step an inch form the flange. Otherwise that is just an extra weld that doesn't need to be there. Just shape the end of the header tube to fit the flanges. On most of the headers i've build the tube needs to start bending too close to the flange to even use a stub.
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Stub tubes are a waste of time unless you are making step headers that step an inch form the flange. Otherwise that is just an extra weld that doesn't need to be there. Just shape the end of the header tube to fit the flanges. On most of the headers i've build the tube needs to start bending too close to the flange to even use a stub.
I tried that and I could tell right away it was not going to work for me. As Harry Callahan once said "a man's got to know his limitations." I may give it a try again. Those stubs are only tacked in place for that very reason.
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I prefer the stub tubes if there is room for them the little time that weld takes
you save multiple times
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Funny how we come up with these ideas when we're up against having to solve a problem! A press would work well too, once you have the ovaled tubes tacked into the flanges and maybe give you a little more control over the process.
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Funny how we come up with these ideas when we're up against having to solve a problem! A press would work well too, once you have the ovaled tubes tacked into the flanges and maybe give you a little more control over the process.
I thought about that but this way worked out fine.
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Nice swaging tool, Alan! I've got a few different sizes of tow ball for fixing various header building challenges. I gave em 1" pipe handles. Closeted header building advocate here btw. ;) 16ga tubing forms nice with a little heat. 20ga becomes thin in spots. I try to not use it if possible.
Stubs are the way to go if you have the room. They make a few more ponies too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fndnzzW/IMG-20180318-1455492.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3YS3zxF)
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It would make more with the front two tubes angled rearward and the rear two tubes angled forward. Following the shape of the port.
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I started on the driver's side today. I ordered a header modeling kit from Ice Engine Works which I think is going to help mocking up the tube routing dramatically. It includes snap together straight and angled pieces. It was a little pricy but in the end I think it will pay off in reduced rework plus I can probably resell it and recoup some of my money.
https://www.icengineworks.com/
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Did you get enough pieces to do both sides at once ?
Will each piece spin in the joining piece or are they pinned ?
Total cost of kit ?
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Did you get enough pieces to do both sides at once ?
Will each piece spin in the joining piece or are they pinned ?
Total cost of kit ?
I got the kit that is big enough for one side...almost. I could have used more straight pieces but I can get around that. Yes the pieces interlock and will spin and there is some tension on them that allow them to stay in place although when I get them the way I want them I put a piece of masking tape the length of the part to keep them in place. Each segment is about 1 1/2" long and the angled pieces are pie cut. The basic kit comes with angled pieces for 3 different CLR. Since the header kit I bought only had J-bends for 3" CLR I called them and they made up a kit for that. My kit was about $450. Like I said, kind of pricy but it is so much easier to mock up and I can experiment with different styles without cutting a single piece of tubing.
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Looks good, Alan! 8) Man I wanted one of those modeling kits when I first discovered them. Just couldn't bring myself to cough up the coin. Ended up putting the money into mandrel bends and winged it. For a tight engine compartment, the modeling kit would be an awesome tool.
This guy I found on epay had pretty good mandrel bends if your looking.
https://www.ebay.com/str/GetBentMandrelBending?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
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I`ve been looking at the Ice kit for a couple of yrs. I have`nt made the jump yet, I got to justify the cost against the project.
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I got the driver's side finished. The scary thing is they actually fit! AND I can get them out of the car with relative ease. I made #7 tube with a slip fit to aid in removal. I think the passenger side will go easier since I don't have to contend with the steering shaft.
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Looks great !
Ricky.
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nice job , I would say they look outstanding , having made headers before , yours look better than mine .
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Wow! those looks great
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Nice They look great !!!!!
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Looking great!
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Looking good, Alan. 8) A few removable tubes might be necessary on the starter side.
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Nice job!
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I finished up the passenger side today. Clearing the starter and still being able to remove the header with the engine in the car proved to be a little more challenging that I thought but I got it. Tubes 3&4 have a slip fit coupling so they are removable. While building these was kind of fun I don't think I want to do another set for awhile...a long while!
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Looks like a work or art!!! Great job.
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They look great Alan. Did you use a TiG setup? One of my bucket list projects is to get really decent at TiG welding.
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They look great Alan. Did you use a TiG setup? One of my bucket list projects is to get really decent at TiG welding.
Yes I TiG welded most of it. And like most of the stuff I do , it don't look too bad if you don't look too close. :) I cannot and will not ever be able to lay down the "stack of dimes" I lack the skill and control for that. I did MiG weld the collector to the tubes too.
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Nice work, Alan! You'll certainly be the only kid on the block with those headers. 8)
Lately I've decided to sacrifice sexy TIG welds for a second pot of coffee. Then grind the chicken$hit off the next day and re-weld.(caffeine regulated) Oh the insanity.
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Great work. Same, TIG unit is on the list of required tools. Although even with the MIG and cheater lenses it's getting harder to lay any kind of bead. Stack-o-dimes ain't my skill either. If the pieces don't break off when the car is running, that's a "good weld" in this shop LOL.
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A little off the header fab. subject, I have a Miller DIALARC tig & stick welder maybe 25 or more years old. The question is, are the newer tig welders such as Miller SYNCROWELDor other solid state machines much better tig welders?
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A little off the header fab. subject, I have a Miller DIALARC tig & stick welder maybe 25 or more years old. The question is, are the newer tig welders such as Miller SYNCROWELDor other solid state machines much better tig welders?
Not necessarily better. The old transformer machines are tanks and hold up well. The inverter machines have more features. Built in pulser, timers, etc that old machines don't have or were add-ons. I have both and I tend to use the old transformer machine for general tig use but if I get into some thin wall stuff or something a bit out of the ordinary then the inverter machine is nice because you can really dial in the machine to make up for my lack of skill.
I bought an inverter machine so I could take it with me and tig/stick in a lightweight package. I wouldn't, and didn't, replace a good working transformer machine for an inverter machine.
I am less of a fan of red and blue machines these days, although that's what I've always run in the past. Their inverter machine are mostly built in China and they plug a few IGBT cards into them once they get off the boat and are called built in USA. I've bought a few other brands to try and the grass isn't greener but the price is better!
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10-4, thanks for the reply on the welder.
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Been eyeballing the "green" machines lately. My MIG is a 120v Hobart unit and it's been a really good piece. Yes, I wish I'd gone with the 210MVP, but still - it was a good buy at the time I got it. Sold my old Century 90 at the swap meet for $50 LOL. My advice when you do buy - DON'T buy too small. Sooner or later, you'll wish. Don't buy twice.