FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: Hipopinto on October 31, 2020, 03:46:29 AM
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Hey all
As many of you know I’m building a “new” engine for my pinto
I have a KEVKO racing front Sump circle track pan but my plan is to use it in a drag race application
I have a Melling high volume oil pump. I also have the melling pickup that KEVKO included with the pan the trouble is with the high volume pump, it really gets the pickup too close to the sump of the pan (less than 1/8 closer 3/32)
Are there any “tricks” to cutting and modifying a pickup tube? TIG vs Brazing?
Clearance should be 5/16 including pan gasket thickness correct?
My current plan is cut the tube and support and adjust height
Also this pan has trap doors in the pan that help with slosh are there any reasons a circle track pan won’t work in a drag application? I would hate to starve that pump especially if I can modify at this point
I tend to really sweat the small stuff at times which is why it takes me forever to get anything done
Thanks guys
Dave
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Can you bend the pickup tube?
I like to see 5/16-3/8" clearance. Gasket laid on the block, then measure from gasket to top of pickup. Then compare to pan.
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You didn't mention using a windage tray. That would certainly gain you the extra clearance you needed, and would be a good addition to any oiling system.
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Are you measuring with clay or a ruler?
Both are good when done right, but given how close you are, might be beneficial to get a clay value with a gasket
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If you cut it and weld it, make sure that the welding doesn't have any pinholes. If you do, you will suck air along with oil into the pump, if the weld is not submerged in the oil.
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Soon after the drag season started in 1964, I concluded I needed a deep-sump pan. So I built one by adding the sump from a 'boneyard' pan. I cut a hole in the bottom of the original pan, large enough to pass the bell on the pick-up, and added a piece of half-inch electrical thinwall in the middle of the vertical part of the pick-up. I overlapped on both ends and notched to reduce the diameter. Brazed it all back together. Worked just fine, and in those far-away days, I don't think I spent five dollars on the whole project.
KS
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I’m using a pair of framing squares to measure
This pickup is a little different as it has a rigid support from the flange that bolts to the pum and goes down to the tube directly above the bell that is submerged
I think my choices might be melt the braze away and try to relocate the bell up the tube benches I really only need 5/16 to 3/8 more room
Can you “un braze”? I have never tried but these factory style pinto pick ups are cheap and I’m not worried about ruining one
I do not have room for a wind age tray as the mains and counter weights are so close to the flat bottom of the pan
I may be able to build a crank scraper but I had to remove some portions of the one built into the pan for connecting rod clearances
It is a stroker and everything is tight fitting!
I can’t thank you guys enough this is by far the most friendly and helpful board I have ever joined
By the way how do I post pictures? Sometimes they are better than words
Thanks again
Dave
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I really doubt that you don't have room for a windage tray, I put a Moroso tray on my 511" dyno mule last summer, and it has a 4.375" stroke crank and BBC rods. The windage tray might not solve your clearance problem, but it would help...
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Jay
Looks like racer Walsh makes a tray but I’m not sure if it will fit my crank
I will call
But I’m curious as to “how” the tray will help with my oil pump pickup clearance?
It’s a fit between the pan and the pump
Just asking maybe I’m missing something
Dave
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A tray mounts to the pan rail and will require a second gasket, pushing the pickup further from the pan.
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I’m not familiar with Pinto engines but not all engines mount the tray between the pan rail and oil pan. Non skirted blocks just bolt them to the caps and it won’t help him with pickup clearance.
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Assuming this is for a small block since it is a pinto before cutting your pickup double check the pan bottom to make sure it hasn't been dropped during handling causing the bottom to be caved in a little.The fact that it is a high volume pump shouldn't have moved the pickup mounting surface on the pump so if the pickup tube doesn't clear its either the wrong one or the pan was made wrong or was damaged during shipping.As mentioned earlier a mistake on welding or brazing the tube back together can cause big problems,so I would eliminate the other possibilities before resorting to that.If this is on an FE that's an easy fix as mentioned earlier.
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I believe this is a 2.3 4 cylinder with a double overhead cam Volvo head. Rob
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Oops my bad,that sounds like an unusual build.
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"I" would check with Brian @ Esslinger Eng in Corona Ca. They do that stuff every day.
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Yes this is the Volvo headed Lima!
These windage trays Mount to the main caps
I will see exactly how far off I am this weekend
It’s been a heck of a push here with work and such
Thanks guys
Dave
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It's somewhat 'off-track' to this thread, but I'd be interested in a dissertation regarding the use of the Volvo head on the 2.3. Exactly what does it take?
KS
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I'll second that, it sounds like an interesting project. FWIW, at one point I had a 2.3 turbo Merkur XR4ti, which was quite a bit of fun