FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Riderjeff on June 29, 2020, 03:45:05 PM
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I'm probably over-thinking this, but I'm looking for a carb recommendation. My T-bird cruiser project engine is essentially built per the suggestions here:
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=7893.0
.040 over Mirror 105 block, zero decked
C3 390 crank, C7 rods w/ARP bolts
C4 heads with stock size valves, springs to match cam
L2291 pistons
Lykins Hydraulic Flat tappet Cam
Streetmaster Intake
probably FPA headers but I haven't bought 'em yet...
Rebuilt C5 distributor, 15 degrees mech. adv., 10 degree vacuum advance
Stock MX trans & converter, 3.0 rear
Obviously no race aspirations, just a sweet cruiser. Want a reliable low-fuss carb that will match the rest of the package.
Been thinking about these:
Summit 600 cfm (essentially a modernized Autolite 4100)
QF HR-680VS
OR just use the rebuilt 4100 1.12 C5SF-A I have in the garage.
Your thoughts?
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I have run 3 of the summit carbs with no problems. Kind of like the Fore 4100 a simple easy to tune for cruising and have had no problems with the.
For racing or hi performance I prefer the Holly.
Greg
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I have a pair of QF Slayer 600CFM vac. secondary carbs on a 445, fairly easy to setup, I like them.
Just be sure to go over the carb (any carb) before install and make sure everything is mechanically very smooth, plate edges nice and clean seating well, transition slot openings identical and minimal all around, etc..
They make a 680 in the Slayer series.
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+1 on the QF Slayer carbs, setting are really good for a nice driver
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I have a summit 750 Vacuum secondary on my 428
Right out of the box it worked really well
I would suggest one to anyone that asked
Good luck
Dave
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SUmmit or the Ford. The "Summit" units are Holley 4010/4011 items that work well on the street.
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Its not on your list but a edelbrock is a good street carb
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So, it pains me to do this LOL because I always push AED double pumpers (when appropriate)
However, that vacuum secondary Quick Fuel is far and away the nicest carb in your list. The Summit/Holley likely just fine, and same with the 4100 if it's a good one, but the Quick Fuel will likely make more power, run better and easier to find parts later on. They are well thought out carbs and really nice.
In fact, I'd likely look to Brent Lykins to see what he can do on a price of an appropriate Quick Fuel too.
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Thanks for all the feedback everybody. This forum is really great!
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If you're looking at the Quick Fuel HR-680VS, check out the BR-67258. Basically the same carb but in 770cfm with all the same features as the HR-680 for 130 dollars cheaper (Summit prices).
Your build is eerily the same as mine. LOL! C7 block, C1 crank, ported C8AE-H heads, C7 390 rods with ARPs, 2291 pistons, XE274H cam with the ported Streetmaster with the Brawler 770 carb and FPA tri-ys in my truck.
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Can someone give me a quick comparison of the various Quick Fuel Products: Brawler vs Slayer vs HR?
Some seem pretty similar, and it's hard to find an explanation of how they compare or are different. I see some are mechanical secondary vs vacuum, but it also looks like some duplication...
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Try calling their tech line. I think main differences you'll see is quality of the castings of the main body, bowls and whether or not the base plate and metering blocks are billet pieces. The majority of these models all run down leg boosters, same style primary and secondary fueling circuits, 4 corner idle, glass bowl sights etc.
Brawler is probably more set for a value cruiser carb. Brass floats, no extensions on the secondary jets, chrome finish (if chosen) but not polished, coated paper gaskets vs non-stick. Little things I've noticed so far. But it's got a lot of good stuff included that would have been extra from another brand. Above mention bits plus electric choke, externally adjustable vacuum secondary and the Ford kick down hardware with my model.
My truck's a cruiser so I'm super happy with the 350 dollar Brawler. Lots of features for the money. Nothing wrong with grabbing a 4150 or 60 off the interweb postings and rebuilding/ upgrading it either.
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Make sure to record the call to the tech line.... it’s worth it to relisten over drinks later
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A long time ago, 2007-ish, they told me they didn't use emulsion in their carburetors. Not emulsion tubes, just no emulsion, it was all air and fuel mix.....
I used a Brawler on an iron 461 and a HR780 on a Trick Flow, both were nice carbs, not sure the internal differences. The Brawler was a double pumper, HF was vac sec, and the Brawler had black metering blocks LOL
Give Brent a holler, Scott Perkins is a carb guy who can prep it for your application, you may find out the cost is worth it.
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Make sure to record the call to the tech line.... it’s worth it to relisten over drinks later
How's that gonna help the OP make a better informed decision on a carb? Maybe you have some sage advice to contribute?
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Make sure to record the call to the tech line.... it’s worth it to relisten over drinks later
How's that gonna help the OP make a better informed decision on a carb? Maybe you have some sage advice to contribute?
-Seems to me he has plenty of good advice.
-This forum has no restrictions on levity.
-If he wanted carb advice from me, he’d have contacted me privately just like the other people that want to talk to me, he wanted the advice of the masses, and that is what he got.
Seriously tho, calling Holley or Summit to ask about their own products would be like asking the bag boy at walmart to butcher a cow for ya. Sure, maybe he can do it, but you’d be better off talking to the guy in the meat department.
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I'm re-reading it and I'm stuck at this-
don't call Holley or Quick Fuel about their carbs but you SHOULD call Drew about HIS carbs....got it. Sage advice indeed.
How's that for levity?
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Go for a well worn in Quadra-jet, off day an 82 vintage anything. The more crusty wires going to mystery emissions dingusses the better.
If at all possible get one that you can physically wiggle the throttle shaft back and forth at least 1/8 inch or so.
;D
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I don’t build generics, if he wanted a QF I’d say to call Brent/Perkins as Ross mentioned above.
Lol ok.... dunno who you are, but I’m sorry you have something against me.
Take it easy fella. Later!
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Go for a well worn in Quadra-jet, off day an 82 vintage anything. The more crusty wires going to mystery emissions dingusses the better.
If at all possible get one that you can physically wiggle the throttle shaft back and forth at least 1/8 inch or so.
;D
Joey, you forgot the stripped out fuel inlet that someone epoxied into place!
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Make sure to record the call to the tech line.... it’s worth it to relisten over drinks later
How's that gonna help the OP make a better informed decision on a carb? Maybe you have some sage advice to contribute?
He was only joking, if anyone calls their tech it’s ridiculous.
However, what’s missing from the OPs list is one of Drew’s high end restored carbs, pick from any of probably 100 on he bench. He likely does have some EF Hutton level carb advice, which he freely shares
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Nah, if folks want a restored engine with matching numbers, I do know a guy.... didn’t seem to be the endgoal here.
Typically I refer folks to Velocity racing carbs for well, racing carbs, or T4carburetors for most other generics.
I’ve seen an unfortunate amount of quality control issues with new stuff, even if I were to buy a new carb, I’d get it through Perkins, one of the above, or any other detail oriented carb shop.
Great part about those places Is that if/when you have an issue, you can call the actual person who built the carb.
I feel the same way about engines, transmissions, anything really... much nicer to deal with an expert for their *sage* advice
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Nothing against anyone. I realize he was joking but it didn't help the OP did it? The guy was/is looking a carb for a cruiser type 390 like mine. Nothing crazy or fancy I'd say. No concours level deal. Just a good reliable carb for a fair price right? He asked the differences between all their ridiculous models because why pay money for a feature that won't matter to the average joe? I guess it's true that if you run a business or offer a service you get to choose when to act professionally to strangers. I don't run a business; I just gave the guy the best of what I know taken with a grain of salt. If it only ends up being entertainment for all you top dog experts, then fine. Where I come from, that's not helping anyone. Yeah, I know. It's the internet, act however you want. I've asked "stupid" questions on this forum before and got very good guidance without ridicule and I greatly appreciate it. So much so that it made me want to support said business owners.
Now then, if I said anything that's a mistake or poor form, correct it with all of your freely given wisdom.
Beyond that gentlemen have a good day.
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Agree with Drew - ANY carb you buy these days, I would take apart and clean with B-12 and air.
Here's a couple of cents from me lol
Ford 4100 - kinda rare, hard to find a good one these days especially the larger venturi items. Jetting tricky I think because of lack of parts and the jets are not HOlley size. They work work very well. Big annular boosters make for good low speed operation, especially with a heavy car, street gear, street converter, etc. The Falcon with a stock 289 C code, iron 4 bbl intake, junk yard small venturi 4100 3 speed, F60-14 bia tires and 2.79 rear went as quick as 14.6 @ 96 at Green Valley.
Summit - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs Good units, didn't sell for Holley because "that donna look like no Holly carb to me". Booster design like the 4100, the rest takes standard Holley parts - jets, choke parts, accel pump diaphragms and such. Vacuum secondary control units same as Holley, same springs and such. Top removes like 4100 for service and change jets. Pump shooters adjusted using pin drills to mod the booster passage. That used to be a problem but now that Summit has the line, replacement booster parts should be available. I ran a 750 vacuum version on a 3350 lb car, 11" converter, 3.25 gear, 351V 4V open chamber, Weiand single plane BFG street tires. Drove great, ran 8.40s in the 1/8 mile, that's low 13s in the 1/4. Still have the carb.
Edelbrock - comes with a very good turning manual, just have to buy a tuning kit for extra $$ to get the parts. Basically a Carter re-man. Looks like a mini spread bor from the bottom. Primary bores are smaller and have very efficient boosters for great low speed mixing. Secondary are weighted air vane controlled by primary air flow , opening rate tuneable on the AVS series. Throttle plates open primary, then secondary like a double pumper. Fairly easy to tune, do have to remove the top and linkages to replace a jet should your turning require it. Accel pump travel adjustable (three positions). Metering rods drop in from top so real easy and can control the rod lift rates (enrichment) with tuning kit springs. Limited selection of shooters for accel pump, but the .033 usually works if the stock .028 doesn't. I think the next up is a .045, so you can buy a .028 and use pin drills. Problem is you have to remove the top to RnR the shooter. But once tuned - and they work pretty well right out of the box - it's set and forget. Back to back Ed 600 vs Holley list 1850 on a mild 302 showed Ed +2 MPG for the win. I've also run two of the Ed 600s on a tunnel ram and had them work well. Also used on a daily with good results. On a cast iron intake, stock closed hood - would recommend a heat shield and a non-metallic spacer to control heat if you live in a hot climate. Stock type Fors setup - iron intake, crossovers open, aluminum PCV spacer - in Texas summer can boil the fuel right out of the bowls.
Holley - everybody has one or two or 23. Modular, well known, parts common as dirt. My wife rebuilt one while we were dating. Have to drain the bowls to change jets, even if you run it dry with the motor from shutting off the fuel pump. Always use Holley brand blue non-stick gaskets or you'll be sorry IMHO. I don't like the QFT gaskets - harder than the Holley parts and the bowl gaskets usually require trimming around the pins, especially if you are using some replacement billet metering blocks. I even use the Holley blue parts with methanol. Not as good as Buna-N when running alcohol but good for a typical season. Many Holley post-rebuild issues come from mis-placed power valve gaskets (leaks right into intake if not centered correctly) and metering block to main body cross passage fuel leaks. Super tuning a Holley starts usually with machining or filing flat the main body faces to restore good sealing with the blocks. The faces and block warp from people putting 47 ft/lbs on the bowl screws. PV gaskets tend to deteriorate quickly these days. "Blown power valve" is what is wrong with every Holley carb, however it's truly a very rare condition. You need an old base plate and a hella backfire to break one. Standard dog leg boosters are the lowest on the efficiency scale. They work, are cheap to Mfg. Down legs on the larger carbs are better but still mainly come into their own with higher air flow rates. Carbs can be had with annular boosters. "List 3310", vacuum 750 is likely the most common carb used on 300~400ish CID engines. First thing you do with a used one is look at the close for hacks before paying for it, then return it to stock configuration before you bolt it on and test. Give a guy a Holley and a screw driver and there's an 60% chance it's going to not run right after he "tunes it up". After any adjustment, you must wing the throttle 4~6 times - that's required. Kidding aside, very versatile units. The DP series has so many sizes because you can fit one very close to an engine's requirements. The 4777 650DPs are really nice all around units. I have one that runs right on a 250 HP 302 or the 575HP 393 on the dragster. QFT aftermarket billet metering blocks are a good upgrade. ProForm blocks - meh. All billet base plates assume 4 corner idle, so on older units you'd want matching metering blocks. ProForm main bodies are usually pretty decent parts but are air bleeded for 4 corner idle, so have to change some parts to update a 2 corner idle stock Holley. I built a 750 vacuum using QFT blocks and a ProForm center, loaned to a friend running a 454 in a Firebird with a 850DP one night. Car picked up 5 MPH and nearly 1 second in 1/8 mile. Like to never got that carb back. QFT, others are all basic Holley DNA, the rest is in the setup and tuning. Barry Grant had some good stuff in his day, but was a total asshole and later on quality went to hell. I have one of his fuel pumps that likes to run full pressure until you need it, then go to zero. Performance back to back 600 DP vs Ed 600 showed Holley for the win by about .02 in 1/8 mile. YMMV of course. For a lot of strip performance applications, the best bet is to hand the carb to someone with a good rep, then bolt it on and run it. Put the screw driver in the tool box after setting the idle mix and speed. The Holley HP series has a decent track rep for running well out of box.
Yes, I've seen a tuned Quadrajet blow a Holley's ears off on the dyno. Very complicated metering devices, but work excellent in the right hands. Not my hands.
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I have a few customers with Edelbrocks and we're both happy , they wanted a carb you don't have to touch for 5 or more years , they didn't want a fuel pump diahram leaking and catching fire , they were not chasing every ounce of HP and Edelbrock fits the bill in those cases . Edelbrock has also quietly increased the tuneability of these carbs with more metering rods , jets and 4 different squirters sizes now available depending on what you need . I wanted a carb they didn't have problems too so it was a win win for me . I used to instal Performer Intakes and 600 Performer carb on the mid late 70's 400 F150/250 PU's and it was night and day difference from a carb that needed no periodic maintenance for the farmers
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After any adjustment, you must wing the throttle 4~6 times - that's required.
We call that a scrub tune up around here..Invariably at the track some ratty big block that's running ragged get's that treatment from the guy in the next pit stall annoying the hell out of his neighbors.. Usually happens on and off after all the 15 second runs till they pack it in and go home.
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Actually for a cruiser carb. I would say Summit, Edelbrock, QF it is tweedle dee or tweedle dum. They all work for me out of the box. Another one not mentioned is the Holley Demon with the Goggle valve. Pretty to look at and the one I bought for 220 bucks on a closeout works very well on a mild 300 inch engine..
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I wondered how the new Demonquad thingies worked out. Not a ton of feedback.
I’d seen them, realized they were a reinvention of a previous design... but you know that can be hit or miss.
Cool to hear they made them decently.
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Street Demon looks very Carter-ish. The rest I think they got from Barry Grant when he shut down.
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Demon is a Carter Thermo Quad
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If you have a good running 1.12 autolite 4100 (about 500cfm) I'd just go with that until you add headers, or, for a vintage look, the big 427 iron exhaust. (EDIT I forgot its a T-Bird, so no way the HiPo iron exhaust will fit, without a torch anyway)
Then probably the QF for tunabiliity if you like tinkering, unless you find a Summit good & cheap. I like the Edel AFB for a cruiser too, and the Autolite 4300 is my best gas mileage carb, but people don't seem to like those, Werby's Wife included - one quit on her in the rain once. It just wanted attention, but she decided it was haunted so it came off.
Speaking of vintage look, my big tank (4400 lb curb wagon, what does your Bird weigh with full tank?) did NOT like the Streetmaster down low.
It was a dog below 2500rpm, which doesn't matter in a 4-speed Mustang but matters a lot in a heavy stock-stall 3.00 Bird. You might keep that stock Z-iron intake around to compare.
I'd stay with the 4100 carb until you add headers (iron or steel).
At that time, you'll make enough power to slowly but surely destroy that MX trans (BTDT with a 396) unless it's beefed or swapped for a C6.
What were the specs on the cam you got from Brent?
(Thanks for the cam specs)
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Gross lift .539 I, .551 E
Duration 271 I, 279 E, @ .050: 219 I, 227 E
ICL 106, sep 109
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I really like the spread bore carbs for a cruiser. They are responsive and get excellent fuel mileage when you stay out of the secondarys. Because of the high velocity thru the small primary venturies. But when you put your foot in it, you have all the CFM you need. Quadrajets are a great spread bore, but they are complex to tune. The 800 holly spread bore is very easy to tune. i've had one on my 455 powered 442 for 40 years and it has delivered up to 25 mpg highway cruising.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/double_pumper/classic_double_pumper/parts/0-4780C
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I'd throw an HR-780 on it.
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I'd throw an HR-780 on it.
Certainly a good carb and room to grow
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My personal experience, contrary to the thoughts of some, the Carter carb--I mean Edelbrock, is an excellent user-friendly carb. It is great for a cruiser and is easily tuned without removing from the engine or making a mess (unlike a Holley). If power and tunability are your primary concerns, though, you can't beat a Holley (or their variations). Power tuning a Holley is just plain fun--in my opinion and according to my personal experiences (legal disclaimer ;D). Each carb has their own positives and negatives.
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I really like the spread bore carbs for a cruiser. They are responsive and get excellent fuel mileage when you stay out of the secondarys. Because of the high velocity thru the small primary venturies. But when you put your foot in it, you have all the CFM you need. Quadrajets are a great spread bore, but they are complex to tune. The 800 holly spread bore is very easy to tune. i've had one on my 455 powered 442 for 40 years and it has delivered up to 25 mpg highway cruising.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/double_pumper/classic_double_pumper/parts/0-4780C
I'm a big fan of Q-jets for cruisers, 4x4 and mild marine stuff. They're a pain to tune, but once set up they pretty much work until the throttle shaft is wore out. I've had a few Holley spread bores, but I actually had to pay for them, people throw away Quadrajets so they cost me a rebuild kit. And after rescuing enough from the scrap man I have a small assortment of tuning parts now.
None of them are great on truely high performance stuff, but on a respectable street car, work truck or fishing boat they do great.
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I have had good luck with holley refurbished carbs go to holley site and look them up you can save a lot and they are like new.
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Holley refurb X2
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I run a 800 Q-jet on my wagon. I like it. I don't like having to run an adapter plate to the square bore intake though due to losing hood clearance. On a former engine combo in the car, a worn out 390/C6 with a 750cfm Q-jet, I have seen 20mpg on a trip. I get mid-teens with my 428/TKO setup.
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Gross lift .539 I, .551 E
Duration 271 I, 279 E, @ .050: 219 I, 227 E
ICL 106, sep 109
LONG!
Lately I’ve been doing a lot of testing and Gonkulating on heavy, tall geared cars – what works and what doesn’t.
The combos that work and don’t work are quite different than if you had an ideal car behind the engine – light, steep gears, stick or high stall, etc. So I did some Gonkulating on the big 65 T-Bird, and it shows trends the same as I’ve seen in road testing and Gonkulating my own big heavy dog. Hopefully it will help in terms of not just “what carb” (I’d run that little Autolite on the shelf for now) but what else will make the combo work.
I don’t know the weight of your 65 Bird exactly but guessed a curb of 4350 lb, or 4550 lb down the track with driver and Feral Shop Cat (optional but a good idea).
With that, and 2” duals which I assume it has, let’s start out with a Gonkulator of its current description, with that 1.12 Autolite 4100 on top. I assumed 1900 stall which is about what I tend to observe for a stock C6 behind a 390.
In the starting condition I’ll include some Gonkulator shorthand, as it will make each Gonkulation quick to compare with the others.
Torq 393 at 3500 (35t393)
Powr 336 at 5200 (52p336)
Shifting at 5500 (s55)
2.61 60ft
10.60 at 70.2 1/8 mile
16.13 at 89.8 ¼ mile
8.35 0-60mph 8.35 60m
OK let’s compare some carbs:
500A= 1.12 Autolite 4100 500cfm
600H = Holley vacuum 600cfm eg 390GT, 390HiPo, 430 Bulldozer carb
735H = Holley vacuum 735cfm 428CJ carb
35t393 52p336 s55 2.61 10.60 at 70.2 16.13 at 89.8 8.35 60m SM+500A WT=4550
35t394 52p342 s55 2.58 10.50 at 70.8 15.98 at 90.6 8.16 60m SM+600H best for now
35t395 52p346 s55 2.60 10.52 at 70.8 16.00 at 90.8 8.17 60m SM+735H best later
The Holleys are a couple tenths quicker 0-60mph, maybe a tenth in 1/8 mile. The 600 Holley was the best of the 3 carbs, but probably NOT the best one later on if you keep reading.
While at it, I Gonkulated the stock iron “Z” intake:
31t400 47p316 s50 2.54 10.50 at 69.6 16.09 at 88.1 8.23 60m Z+500A WT=4600
The iron Z boat anchor beats out the Streetmaster all the way thru the ¼ mile (though it would probably lose the ½ mile if anybody cares). The Streetmaster suffers below 2500rpm as I noted above, so though it shines on top (20 extra horsepower, 336 vs 316) it loses the race off the line and never catches up. So I’d keep that iron Z intake around, but if you want to make the whole combo work better, here’s what’s next:
The FPA headers and 2.5” duals are good steps, regardless of other options.
Here’s a repeat of both Gonkulations, Streetmaster=SM and Z intake with the 500cfm Autolite on top, with FPA and 2.5” pipes.
Note the headers add T=17 ftlb and P=24hp to the Streetmaster combo and 18hp to the iron Z intake combo.
35t410 51p360 s55 2.56 10.31 at 72.3 15.67 at 93.0 7.77 60m SM WT=4550
32t414 47p334 s50 2.50 10.26 at 71.5 15.70 at 90.5 7.75 60m Z WT=4600
The 50 lb heavier iron Z is still quicker thru the 1/8 mi. It loses by .03 in ¼ as the Streetmaster comes to life.
What the big heavy Bird needs, especially with the cam in there (about the equal of Ford’s old C8AX-C cam in terms of loss of low-end), is either more converter, steeper gears, or an overdrive trans. The easiest fix is more converter, as it lets us keep the highway gears. But as we can see, the Gonkulator doesn’t think that stall alone will do it – more gear is also needed.
Same comparison as above, FPA headers, but 2200stall
35t410 51p360 s55 2.39 10.00 at 72.7 15.34 at 93.2 7.37 60m SM finally holds its own
32t414 47p334 s50 2.36 9.99 at 71.8 15.41 at 90.7 7.40 60m Z hangs in there even +50 lb
The 2200 stall picks up 3 tenths in the ¼ mile, about 3 carlengths, and even 3 tenths as early as the 1/8 mile, about 2 carlengths.
Note that the Streetmaster finally has a clear ¼ mile win, but in the 1/8 mile the Z is still a few inches in front.
Also, right in here somewhere, before buying a converter, I’d either swap to a C6 trans (I assume they fit the Bird but not sure), or get some beef in that MX trans before it self-destructs like ours did. I don’t know if a gear vendors C6 overdrive would fit the Bird or not, or maybe a built AOD trans, etc. It’s hard to have a heavy car that cruises and also has steep gears off the line.
Let’s try more stall at 2500, though now we would be cruising “on the converter”, kinda slushy and building heat at cruise:
35t410 51p360 s55 2.31 9.81 at 73.0 15.14 at 93.3 7.12 60m SM better 1/8 mi on.
32t414 47p334 s50 2.29 9.83 at 72,1 15.24 at 90.8 7.18 60m Z better <330ft
This time we only gain .20 seconds (or less) ET – diminishing returns, but that’s still 2 carlengths for a total of 5 carlengths ahead of where the big Bird used to be. A huge difference. The Streetmaster has come into its own (barely), and now beats the iron Z intake everywhere except across the intersection (60ft). Now we need gears.
Next in the Gonkulator I “swapped in” a 3.50 gear, with Traction-Lok while we’re at it. Not needed with the 3.00 gears but now it will help:
35t410 51p360 s55 2.18 9.53 at 74.2 14.83 at 92.6 6.68 60m SM finally better >330ft.
32t414 47p334 s50 2.14 9.55 at 73.3 14.98 at 90.9 6.80 60m Z WT=4600 still wins <=330ft.
The 3.50 gears wake up the combo yet again, making it another 3 tenths quicker. The Streetmaster is winning, but the iron Z still does a respectable job up thru the 1/8 mile, which I commonly use as the cutoff for “street” performance. Unless you live in “flyover country” (pun intended for Ross), that’s probably more important than what the car does at 90-100mph. We have over 40,000,000 people here in CA, and sometimes I do indeed miss flyover country. Empty open road!
Now let’s try a couple different carbs again to compare to the 4100 Autolite’s 14.83 at 92.6mph:
240d 35t412 52p367 s55 2.16 6.14 9.43 at 75.0 14.69 at 93.4 6.51 60m SM+600H
243d 36t414 52p373 s55 2.16 6.14 9.43 at 75.2 14.67 at 93.7 6.49 60m SM+735H better in ¼ mi
The Holleys are a tenth or two quicker than the little 4100 Autolite, but that seems a tiny amount compared to what the converter and gear did. Those are the big decisions as I would see it. It looks like you could choose either a 600H or 735H and run about the same, depending on where you score a super swap meet deal. Half the fun in our hobby is scoring a good deal, right?
I Gonkulated one more combo just for fun – the Rodney Dangerfield (Performer) intake:
232d 33t422 48p350 s51 2.11 6.08 9.38 at 74.8 14.69 at 92.7 6.47 60m Perf+735H, 1” 4h better to 1/8 mi
This intake, with a 4-hole 1” spacer to make it the same height as the others, and a 735 Holley, beats them all to the 1/8 mile and 0-60mph. A good street combo if you come across one. I’d keep that in mind to try it – you could always sell the intakes you don’t like after that. But I’d keep both carbs – the Autolite for gas mileage, and the Holley for summer fun. You gotta have a good running backup carb anyway.
The big heavy Bird is not going to be Top Stock Fast no matter what you do (neither is my super tanker wagon) but it’s fun knowing a car is doing all it can, while still being a good fun cruiser. 8)