FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: turbohunter on June 28, 2020, 08:21:03 PM
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Thought I’d do something different today on the mustang so I tried out one of those sticker erasers that mount on a drill to take off the GT 350 stripes. I’ve got a set that shady made for me that say GTFE.
Could not believe how well it worked. Eraser then some cutting compound and it’s beautiful.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHJTZptW/A285-FF69-22-F8-45-C7-B2-E2-8-A506-C244-FF9.jpg)
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Yup, those things are the best.
I've stripped probably 20 police cruisers for auction after the City takes them out of service.
The reflective vinyl lettering is thick and tough, those wheels work the best.
Takes a little bit to get the speed, pressure, and technique right, but they work great!
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Yeah those wimpy little side stripes flew right off.
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Yup, those things are the best.
I've stripped probably 20 police cruisers for auction after the City takes them out of service.
The reflective vinyl lettering is thick and tough, those wheels work the best.
Takes a little bit to get the speed, pressure, and technique right, but they work great!
Speed of drill turning wheel is most important. Too fast will burn paint.
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One thing you have to pay attention to on eraser wheels is the expiration date on them. They get hard over time & if they are old they WILL burn the paint. The other thing is, I like to break them in to get the sharp edge off by holding it against something that doesn't matter and running it for a while.
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Any chance you could post of photo of what this "eraser" looks like? My enclosed car trailer had vinyl lettering all over both sides, I spent hours trying to peel off the ols stickers and lettering, but for the most part, the vinyl came off in little strips, and left most of the glue residue behind, although some did peel off intact.There is still a fair bit left that I would like to remove, something like that sounds great.
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Here you go Rory. Got it off Amazon.
It started off with a 90 degree edge on the front. This is what it looks like after your done. This one comes with an adapter to chuck up in your drill. It screws into it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kM8pnkJd/B2-DD28-A0-43-C6-4035-82-CF-79-D86-B22-EFD7.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1Cmddh9/82-AB7-B38-1-FB5-4982-AD29-930483-F0-A9-DC.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XN89c8xC/1-F6-CACA2-B75-A-4048-87-CC-F92-B23434433.jpg)
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I bought and used the 3M version.
What worked best for me was to keep the wheel more "square" with the surface, I didn't develop the taper like your's is showing.
I found that low speed and a good bit of pressure worked the best, once I got the edge of the sticker lifted I was able to work it off pretty quickly, and the glue came as well.
I was able to make one wheel last for several cars. A cordless drill was the most user-friendly, but got pretty hot. I'm guessing that drills aren't really designed for the side load that this process puts on it.
Other guys assigned to strip the cruisers got bored/cranky and spun the thing too fast - burned through the clear and the paint, as well as getting the wheel hot and breaking big chunks out of it.
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Have one in my paint cabinet also - works good.
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My technique was light pressure and using the front edge to cut. So I ended up with that taper.
But mine was a small job compared to a trailer.
There are different shaped wheels also. Some with paddles on the wheel like sand drag slicks.
I bought one to try but didn’t get to it because the regular wheel worked so well.
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You have to be careful on a trailer and keep the drill constantly moving. Trailer paint is really thin and no clear-coat to protect it.
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You have to be careful on a trailer and keep the drill constantly moving. Trailer paint is really thin and no clear-coat to protect it.
Trailer paint is more like dust stuck to the aluminum skin. You can take paint off a trailer rubbing it too hard with a wash cloth.