FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 67428GT500 on October 02, 2019, 06:17:52 AM
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I ran the cam in with the outer springs and reinstalled the inner and ran it for another 20 minutes at 2200 rpm. First time I have ever seen headers glow. First time I've ever noted them glowing. Engine was quiet and very smooth. Plugs are a nice tan. No oil and the little bit of smoke went away after the 20 minutes. I am going to have to get the timing dialed in. I ran it in with about 10 degrees initial timing. I also had a vacuum nipple that came off the fitting on the back of the intake. I thought it may have caused the engine to lean out a bit.
I am gone for three days as of tomorrow so I am going to try and get the hood back on and the export brace and do a little bit of fine tuning.
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I've seen the headers glow on break-in more than once. The initial timing doesn't matter. Just the timing at the rpm you were running, 2200 rpm. More timing is better than less, within reason, on break-in.
JMO,
paulie
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If you would have advanced the timing a bunch, they cool down like magic as you turn the distributor. Good thing for that is that with no load, like Paulie inferred, you can crank it right up without concern
No worries on glowing though unless you cooked the ceramic coating, then even then it mostly just discolors unless it's really hot and blister.
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Yeah, glowing headers = too much retard!
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Hmm thought it was retarded to much, advanced cools the exhaust??
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Hmm thought it was retarded to much, advanced cools the exhaust??
That is correct.
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x2 on what Stangman said
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Yes x3 or x4. :)
More timing, not less, keeps the exhaust cooler. At least in this situation.
JMO,
paulie
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Just in case.....but it's been said
1. Pipes get hot and glow at no load - the engine is too retarded
2. Advance the timing - it'll immediately cool down, hell crank it to 50 degrees BTDC if you want, won't hurt a thing
If someone wants to test, try it on your car that's together, retard the timing they'll glow like hell, put it back and watch it cool immediately. In fact the famous cammer picture was likely just retarded ignition timing
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I was about to say 50 degrees, but I really didn't know a concrete number. :)
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The other engine never over heated. Every once in a while it'd puke out of the overflow tube when I parked it after driving it for a while. The temperature gauge was just over 3/4 the way up. I thought I may be a bit retarded. I just got to light off and kept the RMS up with both runs.
Drew fixed my BJ-BKs and set them up on his Galaxie. No more overly rich condition. It's not easy to see the pointer with the 428 PI damper and the short pointer and the alternator there. I am going to put the light on it here shortly and a vacuum gauge. I had the other engine ran in on a dyno so I didn't have to deal with this. I didn't bubble the coating on the headers but it's not as bright as it was.
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The other engine never over heated. Every once in a while it'd puke out of the overflow tube when I parked it after driving it for a while. The temperature gauge was just over 3/4 the way up. I thought I may be a bit retarded. I just got to light off and kept the RMS up with both runs.
Drew fixed my BJ-BKs and set them up on his Galaxie. No more overly rich condition. It's not easy to see the pointer with the 428 PI damper and the short pointer and the alternator there. I am going to put the light on it here shortly and a vacuum gauge. I had the other engine ran in on a dyno so I didn't have to deal with this. I didn't bubble the coating on the headers but it's not as bright as it was.
Color the TDC mark with a white paint pen or soapstone, I would set total, without vacuum at 38 BTDC at 3500, then see where initial ended up, if initial is 14-16, you will be pretty good, if it is 8-10, you likely need a recurve to keep the headers cool and part throttle performance where it should be
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Hmm thought it was retarded to much, advanced cools the exhaust??
That is correct.
Doh! Corrected my post. Thx. Brain fade today!
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Was a nervous phone call last night..... lol
Everyone here is saying the same thing I said. First time you see it is scary.
Ross, the fella who was at the factory for that cammer photo said the exact same thing, they retarded the timing to make it look neat.
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I had Drew's number. Seemed to make sense. LOL
I pulled the filter off and cut it open. No metal chunks or large flakes. The Isky moly cam lube and green Brad Pen make an interesting opalescent color.. ;) The sparkle you see in the picture is from the flash, not metal flakes. There are a couple of white paint flakes from using tin snips on an FL1-A.
I forced all the pleats open and nothing but the dark moly sheen like the cam lube. I do now see why it's wise to change the filter. That stuff will quickly plug up the element.
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Awesome. Good job, the whole process can be stressful.
Get some miles on that car and it’ll all get easier.
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Thanks Drew. I was concerned because of the reuse of the cam in a new block that the cat had scattered the lifters out of the lifter tray.
Slightly aggravating being I spent 30.00 and bought a tray to keep that from happening. I think the ziplok numbered snack bag for each lifter is the way to go, as had been in the past if I have to do it again at some juncture. ( Hopefully not for a LONG time)
Randy and Steve Long said I shouldn't have an issue because of lobe design. It worked out fine.
With all the stories of new cams and flat lobes running this one made me very nervous.
I will set the timing and button up the small details post my last leg and return to KDFW.
Thank you, Drew and others who gave pointers.
Keith
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Don't feel bad.
When I did the cam break in on my Galaxie, well.....
I wired my fans backwards so there I am with an engine at 220degrees trying to pull the bullet connectors off and flip stuff around.
I may or may not have burned myself on a handful of things.
Course cuz it's good common sense, I decided to fire the engine and do cam break in on a day that was 104 degrees.
I forget the rest of the details, but it was one of those days where "If it coulda been done in a way to make life harder, it was done."
Like the "old man" used to say when I'd mess up: "Experience. It's that thing you really needed 30 minutes ago, but you got lots of it now."
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It was in the upper 90's and humid. Miserably hot with that clutch fan pulling all that hot air through with the hood off . Standing over it was like being out in the Sinai Desert in Egypt during the Bright Star Exercises. The only positive was I was lacking the fine blowing sand that gets into everything. Sealed or not.
I set the timing where it ran best and most responsive. 15 degrees initial, 37 all in at 2900 RPM. Idle is about 900 rpm. The Idle mixture screws are about 1.25 turns out.
The cam is 5.59 INT 5.77 EXH. 232 INT 240 EXH @50. I think 10 inch of vacuum at idle seems a bit low. If that is the case I'll have to figure out a vacuum reservoir that I can T into the line without it being obvious and hide the reservoir tank.
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You may find it isn’t needed, you’ll make more vac with a lil rpm.
Test and see
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THE reason I suggested Keith would not have a problem with "mixed up" lifters is because ONE guy (Steve) grinds the cams on an older grinder he's used and maintained for 40 years. The lobes he grinds are VERY precise. He also has complete flexibility to adjust "lobe taper" to work with various lifter diameters to ensure proper rotation with modern low zinc/phospherous oils. Because the lobes are carefully ground one by one and the "run time" was low , the lobe taper was still good and the lifter "crown" was still present. That combined with a little cam lube allowed the lifters to be mixed up and not fail. Many aftermarket cam makers are not that flexible and mass produce cams that could not tolerate a lifter mix up.
Randy
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Well, Randy. Even Steve gave me a 70% chance with the block change to go along with the scattered lifters. I did EVERYTHING I could think of for a successful outcome. Steve Long did offer to cut me a new cam and get it out the same day if I lost the battle. Now that's service!
-Keith