FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 67428GT500 on August 31, 2019, 06:19:35 PM
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I am putting my engine back in the Shelby on Wednesday. There used to be one on Ebay but I don't see them anymore. I was thinking about pulling the inner spring being the cam is in a new block and the cat had dumped my lifter tray. The cam is a custom ground Steve Long unit with 390 miles. I'm praying it will break in with no issue. I will pay shipping both ways and if you need a few bucks for the loan that's no issue either.
-Keith
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I just looked and it is on ebay.
Sold by “Design Concept Engineer”
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264443418725
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Keith I have one of those if you prefer to just borrow rather than purchase.
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I just looked and it is on ebay.
Sold by “Design Concept Engineer”
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264443418725
Drew:
The one they used to offer used the rocker shaft for leverage. I am not sure if this would work on the FE with the four bolt rocker shaft hold downs.
I appreciate the link none the less.
I am praying this thing never has to come apart again after this. I did and took every precaution possible. I thought perhaps pulling the inner springs may cut my chances down of eating a cam.
-Keith
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Drew: After getting off my cell I see that is for servicing the FE. They changed the design so I wouldn't have to take the rockers off the shafts to remove the springs. Thank you.
-Keith
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The one I linked is the one I have. Worked well on all FE springs I have tried, even my beehives.
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Keith it is boxed up and ready to go Tuesday. The only thing that I had trouble with and Drew may have opinion on as well was the rope you put in through the sparkplug hole to keep the valve in place. I think a better method would be an air fitting pressurizing the cylinder would work better.
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Although the rope trick may seem very 'low-tech', it works very well. Thirty years ago I wrecked a compressor trying to keep the cylinder pressurized in the face of what I ultimately discovered was a burnt valve. I not only had to do a teardown to get at the valve, I had to pay to have the compressor rebuilt.
KS
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With the first engine I used the rope trick to disassemble the inner springs on the stand. In the car, getting the rope in the cylinders may prove to be much different. I had forgotten about that. I think I'll light it, run the first 30 minutes or so and put them back in. Then I'll re-install the booster.
Being the heads are brand new with new positive seals it may be fine. I don't need to do a tear down again. I appreciate the ideas and cautions.
-Keith
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Although the rope trick may seem very 'low-tech', it works very well. Thirty years ago I wrecked a compressor trying to keep the cylinder pressurized in the face of what I ultimately discovered was a burnt valve. I not only had to do a teardown to get at the valve, I had to pay to have the compressor rebuilt.
KS
Glad you added the caveat 30 years ago LOL, the screaming intake or exhaust airflow would have been immediately evident that you needed to work on the engine, but I have been there too.
I much prefer air, I don't even think twice about it. Only concern with the nicer cars is protecting the fender from the hose as you lean over it, but you can even come up from the radiator area from the bottom with the hose if you need to. Just watch the fan, it can jump pretty well when you add air.
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Best FE spring compressor for the money there. I've used it on beehives, mild dual spring, and stiff solid roller springs with no issues. Go with the air in the cylinder. You will get tired of the rope, real quick.
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I built my own out of some scrap steel. Faster than ordering it
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I bought that ebay one. I have used it many times. It works great and the price is so low anyone could afford it. Great deal, IMO.
paulie
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Also, the rope is dope. It is so easy and so simple and so full-proof. The only thing is you want to get the right diameter rope for your spark plug holes. Get the biggest that will easily fit. That saves time and makes it easier. You don't want to fill up the chamber with sewing thread. Edelbrock heads have smaller plug holes than factory, for instance.
paulie
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Also, the rope is dope. It is so easy and so simple and so full-proof. The only thing is you want to get the right diameter rope for your spark plug holes. Get the biggest that will easily fit. That saves time and makes it easier. You don't want to fill up the chamber with sewing thread. Edelbrock heads have smaller plug holes than factory, for instance.
paulie
Paulie:
If I did more engine work it'd be worth the investment. I have more money than I care to admit in tools I have used once or twice. A lot of you guys race which justifies keeping this in your tool box. I am praying I won't have to pull this damn thing down again. I still have to pull my chunk too.
Paulie, did you use twine or something before? lol The tool comes with a rope. You are correct as the Edelbrocks use the 5/8" plug.
As you know I had the misfortune of the cat knocking over my Crane lifter tray. I have 360 miles on the cam and I am going to pull the inner spring and pray they'll mate. They are in a new block too. I talked to Steve long. He said they likely will be fine. I loaded the cam up with Isky cam lube too.
I took a week of vacation to recover from surgery. ( The chief pilot made me do it.)I guess I'll get this crap knocked out.
-Keith
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I just went to the hardware store and bought some rope of the right diameter. It was probably around $5. I don't remember. I like it better than using compressed air as it is totally fool proof. It takes a little longer, but not much longer. You put the rope in and rotate the engine so the piston pushes it up into the valve. There are not too many things in life simpler than that. …..or cheaper... :)
JMO,
paulie
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It was sent out this morning Keith and the rope is included. The fear I have with the rope is that you have no control of how it is in the hole and afraid that the highest portion could be on the edge of the valve. Probably not much to worry about but I would prefer the load be distributed evenly across the valve to hold it in place.
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Hey Kieth just curious how much a new cam would be. Scary with new lifters on cam thats already been broken in on different lifters. I also have a 67 mustang and just wondering if you could save yourself some aggravation
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The cam is a custom grind. The lifters are very expensive Johnson Hydraulic lifters that are no longer available. Randy will tell you about Steve Long. Steve Long seems to think all will be well and so does Randy. I am not running new lifters, but the 360 mile lifters and cam that were in the original engine. They still have their crown. At this point it would be about 600.00 dollars and a month wait.
Steve and Randy suggested I pull the inner springs and run it it. I had the other engine broken in on a dyno just to avoid this crap I'be been through with a junk block. I'm not going to waste another 700.00 on dyno time, a new cam, having the cam degreed. This damn thing has eaten enough of my money.
I am going to hold my breath and cross my fingers and rub my pilots wings real hard and pray they seat.. I would have never attempted this with anyone else's cam.
-Keith
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You did kill the cat though, right?
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I think what pissed me off is that I bought a the lifter tray specifically so this wouldn't happen instead of putting each one in a small ziplock and labeling it's location on the outside bag with a sharpie. I guess the pushrods sticking up from the tray is what he caught jumping over it. Alexander The Great weights 21 pounds and he's not fat.
-Keith
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The cam is a custom grind. The lifters are very expensive Johnson Hydraulic lifters that are no longer available. Randy will tell you about Steve Long. Steve Long seems to think all will be well and so does Randy. I am not running new lifters, but the 360 mile lifters and cam that were in the original engine. They still have their crown. At this point it would be about 600.00 dollars and a month wait.
Steve and Randy suggested I pull the inner springs and run it it. I had the other engine broken in on a dyno just to avoid this crap I'be been through with a junk block. I'm not going to waste another 700.00 on dyno time, a new cam, having the cam degreed. This damn thing has eaten enough of my money.
I am going to hold my breath and cross my fingers and rub my pilots wings real hard and pray they seat.. I would have never attempted this with anyone else's cam.
-Keith
Just make sure they aren't tight in the bore, nothing's rubbing, good oil, and fire it immediately and go through a break in. Likely won't be an issue, but need to make sure you don't induce one
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well we will be crossing our fingers, its nerve racking enough. ;)
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I appreciate it. I am off until Wednesday. No fly after anesthesia for 7 days. It's going in Monday. Everything is ready to go. Even the tool to cut open the oil filter.
I am running the Penn Grade 30WT break-in oil. I generally dump the oil after the break-in. The builder who did my machine work said I should pull the oil filter, inspect the element for metal. If all looks well run the oil for 300 miles and change it. What say the peanut gallery?
-Keith
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I appreciate it. I am off until Wednesday. No fly after anesthesia for 7 days. It's going in Monday. Everything is ready to go. Even the tool to cut open the oil filter.
I am running the Penn Grade 30WT break-in oil. I generally dump the oil after the break-in. The builder who did my machine work said I should pull the oil filter, inspect the element for metal. If all looks well run the oil for 300 miles and change it. What say the peanut gallery?
-Keith
Sounds perfectly logical to me, 100, 300, 1000, I like to dump the oil to get bits an pieces of gasket material, silicone, etc out, you'll see it here and there. They key is a few times to temperature and varying loads, let the engine work a little, then put a clean oil and filter and wash all that away