FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Jim Comet on August 12, 2019, 09:14:27 AM
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Hey guys, I had these custom 2 inch wide leaf springs made this spring for my 66 Comet to allow and extra 1/2 inch of tire clearance. The car is hooking up very well right now with 1.48-1.52 60ft times. Heres the issue, when I installed them they had about 3 inches more lift which would allow 29.5x9 tires. After trailering to the first race the car dropped 3 inches and caused tire clearance issues with the fender well. I then installed my old 28x9 MT slicks and they fit well. I am currently running the 28x9 slick and hooking well. I would like to go back to the 29.5x9 slicks to drop my trap rpm which is about 6900. Here is a picture of the front of the spring which has lost it arch. Do you thing there is a safety concern to run this the rest of the year? It almost looks to have taken some reverse arch. Would another spring clamp help? The tire clearance issue is something I would rather tackle over the winter. Jim
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It's not happy and locked in that position by the lower link now. I wonder if it would return if you took the link loose and maybe even stay there if it was set up with the link just a little longer.
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The rear suspension moves easily as it is well lubed and set up to allow my "JIMtracs" homade caltracs to pivot and work. In the picture you are looking at, I have a 1/16 gap on the upper pivot so there is no pressure being applied by the traction bar. The spring is free to move up if it had the oomph! Jim
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It looks like the spring eye is wound the oppposite way as a factory spring. I'd ditch those and get some springs that are made correctly and have proper heat treatment.
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It sounds like that new engine (or the trailer ride) just claimed a first victim.
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Be a good time to install some Split Mono's
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The only reason I didn't do the split monos is I wanted a 2 inch wide spring for tire clearance. It might be time to move the springs with a relocation kit, something I was hoping to avoid.
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Return the springs and have them build you a new set that’s properly heat treated. Don’t start tweeting your setup to accommodate springs that will continue to change.
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It looks like the spring eye is wound the oppposite way as a factory spring. I'd ditch those and get some springs that are made correctly and have proper heat treatment.
2X! I'd ditch those in a hurry as trying to re-tweek them may easily lead to failure, especially if those are your now ancient OEM leafs that came with the car. They are, aren't they?
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I had them made this spring. I currently have a call into the spring builder and will see what they say. I think Raptor may be on to something about heat treating as they lost about 2 inches of height the first time I trailered the car to the track, before I even made a pass.
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My .02.
The "caltracs" would typically bend then down in a Z form if the chassis was working too hard. That is why many guys go to monoleaf as they are thicker and wont deform from the caltrac pushing down on the front end.
Since they sagged just holding the car up, that means they aren't strong enough,period. I would suggest a much thicker leaf. If they can't bend a hook in a thicker leaf, then just have them use thicker ones under the main leaf to hold it up. Extend the second leaf up to each end of the main leaf to support it as much as possible.
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+1 Larry said what I was going to.
Randy