FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: PaulProe on May 07, 2019, 12:05:24 PM
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I am putting a Shelby aluminum block into a replica cobra and running into starter interference issues. hard to stuff 10lbs into the 5lb bag.
I purchased a PowerMaster 9606 starter which will bolt up, as long as the engine is out of the car and the headers not on. Add those two items and it gets bad.
The starter is about 1/2" too long to keep it from being clocked into the motor down position, the motor hits part of the main frame. The Shelby block design keeps it from being clocked to other positions, the case cover will hit the core plug for the water jacket.
Searched the forum and some guys report the 9406 to be smaller, but looking at the dimensions on the Powermaster catalog, it comes in about the same size, although it appears to be less bulky
Others suggested Tilton or RobbMc but I have no experience with those. Checking measurements, they seem to be similarly sized.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Hate to spend $300 to find out the next one doesn't fit either.
Paul
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I have a Power Master in my Comet and had to drill 2 new holes to index it where I needed it.
In edit, That is 2 new holes in the face of the starter indexing plate. I have a Pond block with Crites headers, it's very tight.
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Paul,
I had the same issue with the power master and Shelby block as I could not clock it properly with the holes that it had. I believe if you can get an infinitely adjustable it would work. Being cheap I had a Summit Racing starter from their scratch and dent/ return rack. I bought it just for a spare. I still had to grind the block area where the starter goes into the block slightly to get it to fit it. The clocking on that unit worked. Don’t know about the Tilton or RobbMc.
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the starter I have (9606) has the infiniti-clock feature, and that still won't work. When I clock it to where the motor clears the frame, then the electrical connections hit the rear core plug on the block. If I clock it down the clear the core plug, then the motor clamp bolts and bosses hit the frame.
Spoke to PowerMaster and the tech suggested the 9506M. Says it will clear the old cast iron manifolds and orients like the original starters. The electrical comes out the opposite side but the motor connection moves to the other side and I think it will likely hit the core plug. Couldn't say if it would work or not.
Spoke to Shelby and they said they didn't know. They've been told 'PowerMaster' and 'Tilton' but couldn't give a specific recommendation. They don't supply starters with their motors.
Hoping someone with experience on this block and RobbMc starters can pipe in and hopefully load a picture. Not a lot of pictures on the RobbMc site.
Paul
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Pretty sure my RobbMc starter is shorter than the factory jobs, and is clockable. Jay runs a Shelby block in his clone, so maybe send him a PM so he doesn't miss the question.
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I have run both the clockable Powermaster and the RobbMc starters in my Shelby block engines, but I don't know about clearance to the frame elements or headers in a Cobra. I may have had to grind on one corner of the Powermaster starter to get it to clear near the core plug area of the Shelby block, can't remember for sure. I think I'd be leaning towards the RobbMc starter in this case, maybe get in touch with Robb and see if you can arrange to return the starter if it doesn't fit? I think you might be in for a modification to the frame or headers if it doesn't...
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You would think that when you are casting a nice $$$ new aluminum block you would design it to mount a typical performance starter.
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You would think that when you are casting a nice $$$ new aluminum block you would design it to mount a typical performance starter.
What did Shelby use when they were installing these engines in their continuation series?
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I'm using a Powermaster 9506 with Shelby Block in a 64' Comet and no major issues....Al
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>the starter I have (9606) has the infiniti-clock feature,
FWIW, I have one of those on a 351C. They are a pest because the screws that hold the nose clocked back off, even with Locktite on them. It was a spare, had to use it after my old Summit unit broke after 12 years of racing use. Hate it.