FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: amdscooter on November 17, 2012, 02:36:04 PM
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Howdy everyone! Many regulars are probably already are familiar with me haunting the technical forum for some time now with questions bout my 67 Fairlane GTA 390FE. Decided it's a good time to start a project thread as I'm well beyond just header questions.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_2132s.jpg)
Basic specs of my Fairlane:
390 GT 14 bolt heads C7AE-A
C6 column shift
Stock 9" rear with what I believe to be the factory 3.00 gears.
Factory AC
Power steering
Power Brakes
Some more background in my initial thread here: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=578.0 (http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=578.0).
390 FE details:
Heads fresh stock with Viton seals and hardened exhaust seats.
Short block .030 stock with oil mods, CJ oil filter adapter, Melling HV pump, chrome moly pump drive shaft, Comp 268H Cam(Intake and exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:218, Valve Lift: 0.494, Lobe Lift:0.286) and Ford Racing Double Roller timing chain.
Springs, lifters, keepers, etc. from Comp K33-224-3 cam kit.
Edelbrock Streetmaster intake.
FPA headers.
2.5" pipes with Magnaflow mufflers.
Holley 4160c 600cfm carb.
Stock distributor with Pextronix Flamethrower2 module and coil.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_2966.jpg)
Here is the last video I uploaded for another member:
http://youtu.be/olhXxOS43lw (http://youtu.be/olhXxOS43lw)
The bare tailpipes in that video are due to the muffler shop owner coming up one short on his order for my tailpipes. I was anxious to put the tune on the new motor so I took the car w/o them and will have them installed when I get back on the street. Since that video I've been sidelined by a leaking power steering pressure hose. Going to see if there is a better fitted replacement available next week. If not I'll order what I put on last time around from Autokrafters and "make it work" again until I find or make a better replacement. I also ditched the fan clutch for a flex fan due to clearance issues to the radiator. Been "fun" getting into my FE and learning lots as I go. A few questions to add to the ongoing list:
Ignition: Think I've got a decent handle on the total mechanical advance for the timing with 10 degrees initial and 36 degrees total mechanical advance.
1) With my setup should I use more initial advance if I can find a reasonable way to keep the total to 36?
2) What kind of spark gap would people recommend? I'm currently running the stock spec at .035.
3) Timed vaccum port on the carburetor or full manifold as a source?
Carburetor: The street test runs I was able to do before the power steering line went to pot showed lacking performance off the line. Before my 390 was pulled I was able to get the stock 14" tire spinning from a stop pretty easily. I've checked the linkage and it "appears" to be opening the carb completely. Need to get my buddy over here to put his foot on the pedal to ensure it's pulling the linkage the same amount as I'm able to move from the engine compartment though.
1) Is the Holley 4160c 0-80457s 600cfm still appropriate or adequate for my 390 with new adds? Holley claims the carb is good for a v6 or small v8. Full specs on the carb here: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5rev5.pdf (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5rev5.pdf) Basic specs: http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp (http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp)
Thanks!
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Good looking car. I need one of those things...
I would experiment with running the initial timing up as high as 16, and the total advance as high as 40, to see if that helps your off idle acceleration issue. I gap all my plugs at .035", no matter how much horsepower the engine has, so I think you are good there. And I'd stick with the timed vacuum port for distributor vacuum.
I think you have a carb problem as the primary issue; that cam shouldn't kill low end torque so I don't think its the converter. However, your car could benefit from a higher stall converter, so you might consider that at some point. You can't check for full throttle just in the engine compartment; you have to press the pedal down while you are in the car. Take your cell phone video camera, turn it on and put it on top of the carb, and then jump in the car and go to WOT a couple of times. The cell phone camera should tell you what you need to know.
If your throttle blades are opening all the way, or even most of the way, you will need to do some carb tuning. I'm not familar with that particular carb, but I've had to make modifications on a lot of single four vacuum secondary carb setups, where the carb just couldn't deliver the kind of accelerator pump shot the engine was needing when you slam the throttle open. You can play with squirter size and pump cams, and even put on a larger accelerator pump to solve this problem, or you could go to a 650 or 700 double pumper Holley to solve the problem.
One thing that would tell you for sure is if you put a wideband O2 sensor setup on the car. Innovate Motorsports makes a pretty good one, and it allows you to log data from the O2 sensor and figure out when you are going rich or lean. It will allow you to debug a problem like this, and also save you some money in gas mileage if you can tune the carb to run at the correct A/F ratio while you are going down the road. In your case, if you are stumbling on acceleration, I'll bet you would see the A/F curve give a lean spike right when you hit the throttle...
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^^^ Thanks for the compliments and advise jay.
I am on the "timed" port already so thanks for the confirmation there. On the timing side I have a 18L~13L reluctor in the distributor set on the 13L side. So I can go up to 14 degrees initial advance and stay within that 40 degree total advance budget. Would you say 40 degrees total advance is about the maximum I should probably run?
On the carburetor side I'll definitely look into one of those Innovate Motorsports wideband O2 sensors. I'm pretty sure the blades are opening at least 90% so carb tuning is a likely suspect. I had planned on upgrading to a larger (700~750cfm) pretty quickly anyway, could you toss out a few part numbers of what I should be looking for in a suitable upgrade?
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Nice car indeed!
Is the carb brand new or was it run on the old engine? Often swapping on a known good carb even for an around-the-block run is helpful in diagnosing any issues...such as is it solely the carb or not. If the plugs look good and the car runs strong from near highway speeds (40 to 70) I'd fool with your accel pump shot settings and maybe swap on a different pump cam (what color is the pump cam btw? Is the screw in the #1 or #2 hole?). More here:
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/R7849-2.pdf
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Nice car indeed!
Is the carb brand new or was it run on the old engine? Often swapping on a known good carb even for an around-the-block run is helpful in diagnosing any issues...such as it it solely the carb or not. If the plugs look good and the car runs strong from near highway speeds (40 to 70) I'd fool with your accel pump shot settings and maybe swap on a different pump cam (what color is the pump cam btw? Is the screw in the #1 or #2 hole?). More here:
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/R7849-2.pdf
Thanks! The carb is not new.. but newish. Bought it January of 2011 and I did run it on the engine before the recent rebuild. My good friend who did the head work for me is looking for a carb I can use for troubleshooting purposes. The car seemed to run fine at highway speeds for the three miles or so I was able to run it. The plugs look normal. I'll have a look at the pump cam tomorrow and report back as to it's current settings.
-scott
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a good 2" spacer helps lowend torque alot ..
and I second the lm2 wide band by innovative .. I love mine and it looks cool to boot...
Ive always had to lean out stock holley carbs on the primary side. and I also changed to a light purple spring to get the secondarys active sooner .....
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and I second the lm2 wide band by innovative ..
X3. I'd be totally lost without mine on my 428. It's been a huge confidence booster to *know* what is happening in the motor as changes to the carb/timing are made. Worth every penny, wish I bought one 5 years ago.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-Wideband-Air-Fuel-Ratio-LC-1-Wideband-Controller-Kit-Red-DB-Gauge-3796-/110978510236?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d6d5ad9c&vxp=mtr
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That one doesn't include any datalogging capabilities, as far as I can see. You really want the datalogging because you can't be watching that gauge all the time; I'd suggest a different product, like this one:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php
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^^^ Thanks for the links guys. Looks like they both let you log to a laptop with a USB cable and software. If I can save a few bucks by not having to purchase the readout paddle I'm going that route. I have a few laptops here that are excellent candidates for carburetor tuning ride alongs. ;)
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I have a lm-2 and the one on the car .... No need to have any download hooopla. you can watch the gauge pretty easy and see whats going on. If you cant just have a buddy ride along and watch it for ya. I find it easy to watch and mine is down by the shifter. The red led lite is realy clear .
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I just want to verify, is the Holley carb you have list #8007 ? That's what the link to the instruction sheet is you posted. If that's correct that carb is only a 390 cfm which is WAY too small for your car. Personally I like the good old #1850 ( with any dash number ) for an aftermarket choice and if you're looking for about 600 cfm the original Ford Holley's for any of the 390 GT motors are hard to beat and not too expensive as a used part. Please verify for us what the LIST # is of the carb you're using. Check this link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-8007
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I have a lm-2 and the one on the car .... No need to have any download hooopla. you can watch the gauge pretty easy and see whats going on.
Well, maybe if your car is slow... ;D
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I just want to verify, is the Holley carb you have list #8007 ? That's what the link to the instruction sheet is you posted. If that's correct that carb is only a 390 cfm which is WAY too small for your car. Personally I like the good old #1850 ( with any dash number ) for an aftermarket choice and if you're looking for about 600 cfm the original Ford Holley's for any of the 390 GT motors are hard to beat and not too expensive as a used part. Please verify for us what the LIST # is of the carb you're using. Check this link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-8007
Sorry bout that, looks like I posted the wrong link. I'll update the first post in a sec. Mine is the 4160c 0-80457s. It is a 600cfm, specs found here: http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp (http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp) PDF manual here: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5rev5.pdf (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5rev5.pdf) Thanks for catching my error. ;)
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Well, that's a big relief on the size of the carb lol. Next question - did the carb come with the car or did you purchase it recently? Reason I ask is looking at the specs in the intruction sheet it shows a "plain" secondary spring, which is in about the middle range of stiffness, but looking in a older Holley catalog I have it shows that carb coming with a "black" spring which is the stiffest. I would verify which spring it has. With a "black" one I'd guess you'd be barely opening the secondaries, if at all. Either that or just follow Jay's advice and work out a way to check for secondary opening under driving conditions. Oh, and by the way, that's one sweet Fairlane.
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An easy trick to see if your vac secondary is opening is to put a small tie wrap on the lever
just snug enough to slide up and down.
Take it out and stomp on it.
If the tie wrap moved down then the secondary is opening.
It won't tell you how fast, but that it is working.
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Well, that's a big relief on the size of the carb lol. Next question - did the carb come with the car or did you purchase it recently? Reason I ask is looking at the specs in the intruction sheet it shows a "plain" secondary spring, which is in about the middle range of stiffness, but looking in a older Holley catalog I have it shows that carb coming with a "black" spring which is the stiffest. I would verify which spring it has. With a "black" one I'd guess you'd be barely opening the secondaries, if at all. Either that or just follow Jay's advice and work out a way to check for secondary opening under driving conditions. Oh, and by the way, that's one sweet Fairlane.
Thanks and thanks! The Holley did not come with the car, I purchased the carburetor new January 2011. I have not been able to get it on the street this week at all as the power steering leak is still not resolved. I'm planning on going to manual steering and am just waiting for a part. Then the PS pump, cylinder, control valve and all the darn hoses are going into a box and shelved for the time being. Once I'm rid of that I'll get back to tweaking the carb. My buddy is also on the hunt for a loaner double pumper for troubleshooting purposes.
ScotiaFE, sounds like a good go/no go test. thanks for the suggestion.
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Seems like summer here the last few days. After removing the power steering completely I was able to get some drive time in.. windows down. First off I had to get used to the new flex fan noise after getting rid of the clutch fan. For timing it's peppy around town at 14 initial~40 total but I get what I believe is detonation/hesitation at highway speeds above 2700 rpm or so. I'm currently running it at 8 initial~34 total. While not as zippy off the line it performs much better at highway speeds with maybe a hint of hesitation every now and then that could even be wind buffeting. So over sensitive to that kind of stuff with the new build.. I need to remember to keep that in mind. I might try taking the timing down to 6 initial tomorrow to see if it's the cheap gas causing any issues. I don't believe I need to run 92 octane as this is supposed to be a low compression "H" code 390. But I'm going to try some 92 to see if it makes any difference at all. Idles at about 1k rpm in park and 7~800rpm in gear.
As far as the carburetor, the accel pump is in the bottom hole and the cam is orange in color. I might also try the "upper" or #1 accel pump hole tomorrow to see if it makes any difference off the line. Secondaries are opening. Quickie video I took this morning when there was still a bit of chill in the air before the days driving..
http://youtu.be/zehIx_27R4I (http://youtu.be/zehIx_27R4I)
All in all a fun day driving around town. ;D
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Well I've finally exhausted myself trying to get the timing dialed in right with my re-manufactured stock distributor. I tried a Petronix FF2, points, spring kit, etc. and just could not get what I wanted out of it. Broke down and ordered a MSD 8595 ready to run. I'm planning on configuring it for 21 degrees total mechanical advance and I'll run 12~15 initial. My FE does not like much over 36 degrees total so this should keep me inside my total advance budget. I'll probably lock the vacuum as well and spring it for "all in" by 2500. I had reasonably good results with similar setup in the stock distributor except I could not run enough initial with it.
I was wondering what coil the rest of you use? I currently have a Flamethrower 1 installed. But I've read around that the MSD likes lower Ohm coils. Recommendations/comments?
***edit***
The 8595 is the "Ready to run" not "Pro billet". Had dizzy on my mind and my fingers got ahead of my brain. :P
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You will like the MSD distributor, I've had great luck with them. I usually use one of MSD's Blaster 2 coils, or else an HVC2 coil, along with a Digital 6 box. I've had pretty good luck with that combination.
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You will like the MSD distributor, I've had great luck with them. I usually use one of MSD's Blaster 2 coils, or else an HVC2 coil, along with a Digital 6 box. I've had pretty good luck with that combination.
Thanks! Had to edit my last post as the 8595 I purchased is the "ready to run" not "pro billet" model. The deciding factor was the outright ease of configuration it offers. Being able to easily lock out the vacuum advance, change the advance springs and simply shim the total mechanical advance will remove a lot of the "pain" of dialing in the tune. Well worth the investment IMHO. Many folks seem happy with the MSD product. The soft RPM limiter is a bonus.
The MSD website recommends the Blaster 2 with the 8595 but gives no reason why over their other offerings. I was comparing the specs for the Blaster2 and Blaster3 and they appear to have the exact same performance profiles. The difference being the Blaster3 has a taller coil wire tower with a male HEI style connector meant to prevent arcing. Can I use my standard 8mm plug wires with the MSD? Which would you recommend if I wanted to keep an upgrade path to the possibility of adding a Digital 6 box later?
Thanks
Scott
***added***
Might as well ask as long as I'm here. What brand spark plug wires do folks here run? Figured as long as I'm swapping out the dist and coil it'd be a good time to service my 15 year old 8mm wires. I'm currently looking at these:
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Sets 35383
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35383/media/images (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35383/media/images)
&
Davis Unified Ignition LiveWires C9069-200BL
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-c9069-200bl/overview/year/1967/make/ford/model/fairlane (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-c9069-200bl/overview/year/1967/make/ford/model/fairlane)
I've never heard of Davis. They have a slightly angled boot at the spark plug end and are 10mm. Any benefit over the MSD set?
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I run the MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires from summit and found them WAY to long. I have the tools to cut and shorten the wires. to save some problems order the cut to fit ones. It comes as a kit and is very easy to do .
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+1 on the cut to fit, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor wires; they have always worked well for me.
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+1 on the cut to fit, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor wires; they have always worked well for me.
Scott, the Taylor 8mm cut to fit wires were recommended to me, and have worked great with my MSD Pro-Billet dist. Agree that Cut to Fit is the way to go. Once you get the right tool to strip and cut the wire, the rest is easy and you get the exact installation you want. Nothing against the MSD wires and I would try them next time.
Bruce
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^^^^ Thanks for the advise guys! Went with the MSD 8.5mm and MSD Blaster3 coil. Should make for a fun afternoon replacing the dist and wires. ;D
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Had some time to get under the hood today and I'm pretty happy with the results. The vacuum secondary 600cfm Holley came off and the new Holley 750cfm double pumper is siting in its place on top of a new 1" spacer. Got a new Edelbrock air filter element that sat lower and gave me the space I needed for hood clearance.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_3637_zps51ee448c.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/amdscooter/media/IMG_3637_zps51ee448c.jpg.html)
The difference in throttle response with the double pumper is amazing. Thing really came awake with the new carb.. like night and day off the line. ;D
I'm thinking I need a new fuel pump though. If I get into the throttle (not even WOT) it takes off then bogs. After bogging I let off the gas it returns to normal operation. Floats and fuel level appear ok and I changed the fuel lines and filter when I installed the new carb. Any recommendations for a good plug-n-play mechanical pump? I'm eyeballing the Edelbrock Performer RPM - Fuel Pump Part Number: 1724. It's rated at 110gph at 6psi fixed.
Lastly, is there any issue with running rubber fuel line from the pump all the way to the carb? I currently have the original stainless tubing coming from the carb outlet up to the top of the manifold. I'm wondering if I need a suitable substitute with a new pump?
Thanks
-scoot
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That sounds more like a carb tuning issue than a fuel pump issue. You won't use up the fuel in the float bowls in the second or two that you are seeing acceleration, then bog. It could be quite a few things, really, but it is either too much fuel or too little. When you stomp on it do you see any black smoke behind the car? If so, fuel might be sloshing from the float bowl into the vents, and flooding the engine momentarily. In that case a set of Holley vent whistles should fix you up. More likely it is lack of fuel during the accelerator pump shot, and you can tune this with different positions for the accelerator pump cams, or different shooter sizes. You might try watching the carb with the engine off while you slam the carb open. You'll see fuel come out of the shooters for some period of time; that's the accelerator pump shot. If the pump shot lasts about as long as the car accelerates before bogging, then you are probably running out of pump shot and you need to play with different pump cam positions, or different pump cams, or a smaller shooter size to make the pump shot last longer.
Glad to hear that the carb has made an improvement, and here's hoping you can clean up the bog issue with some minor changes...
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Thanks for the advise! No black smoke at all.. she runs clean as a whistle till she bogs. That's why I was thinking lack of fuel right off. I'll have a go at tuning it with the different cam positions tomorrow, ran outta daylight today. Idles a whole lot cleaner now as well. I cannot wait to get the carb dialed in right.
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One thing I forgot is to make sure you set the float levels too, a very low float level might cause that problem.
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You say it bogs with no black smoke after a couple seconds after stomping on it. If you push to WOT a little slower than stomping on it and it runs smooth through the point where it bogged, then that is a pretty sure indication that the pump shot is running out too quickly as mentioned.
That O2 sensor would really help here.
And +1 on the sweet Fairlane. A set of CJ valve covers would really look sharp on that thing! Hey, it's only money ;)
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You say it bogs with no black smoke after a couple seconds after stomping on it. If you push to WOT a little slower than stomping on it and it runs smooth through the point where it bogged, then that is a pretty sure indication that the pump shot is running out too quickly as mentioned.
That O2 sensor would really help here.
And +1 on the sweet Fairlane. A set of CJ valve covers would really look sharp on that thing! Hey, it's only money ;)
Checked the float levels again today in sunlight and they are both fine. Terrorized the neighborhood Took a couple of laps around the block today after switching the cams to position #2 and it's a world better. Looks like I'm just gonna have to tweak by the seat of my pants till I get a wideband sensor installed. And I gotta say... the new carb is making this old girl like a whole different ride entirely. I simply cannot believe the difference. The throttle response is so much faster and fluid now. I'm gonna have to figure out a way to keep the fan belt from screaming every time I goose the throttle. Gotta say, that's a problem I don't mind having right this second. ;D
Font cam is black and the rear is peach colored. The front shooter is a .031 and the rear is a .025. Seeing as the #2 position on the cam cured most of the bog, should I be looking into smaller shooters?
CJ valve covers.. only if the stock article start to leak. I'm not ashamed to admit I used a bit of Right Stuff on both sides to get those guys to seal up. I'm so far over budget on my little "header" upgrade from last year I'm having a hard time lookin' my wife in the eye, good thing she really loves me. ::)
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Terrorized the neighborhood Took a couple of laps around the block today
Now that's funny :)
Font cam is black and the rear is peach colored. The front shooter is a .031 and the rear is a .025. Seeing as the #2 position on the cam cured most of the bog, should I be looking into smaller shooters?
Smaller shooters will give you a longer squirt time and should help, provided it doesn't put you back in to a lean bog. If it does, you may have to look at the bigger 50cc pump to get the extra capacity along with the correct shooter to keep you out of the bog. It can be somewhat time consuming to get it all right, but it's always a great excuse to terrorize the neighborhood take a couple of hot laps.
I'm so far over budget on my little "header" upgrade from last year I'm having a hard time lookin' my wife in the eye, good thing she really loves me. ::)
Header upgrade.....haha!!! :)
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"Header upgrade".. I say that to myself a lot nowadays. This entire motor refresh started from a cracked exhaust manifold that I noticed when I was getting ready to replace the gaskets on each side of the stock heat riser. I still have the $2 worth of gaskets in the glove box. I take them out and look at em' every time I start feeling the need to "fix" something.. it reminds me of the thousands in excess I just spent for my "header upgrade". :P
So how far down in shooter size should I start at? Most carbs I've read about seem to use .025 as about the smallest shooter. Should I start with another .025 for the primary? I ran around for a few hours this afternoon and just the change in the cam screw position really did clean things up a lot. When I get a chance I will definitely be getting a bung for a wide-band sensor installed. Probably get it done when I have the chrome tips put on the exhaust. I might wait till I get it installed before swapping out any more carb parts. It's not running bad now at all and I prefer to not stab about in the dark if at all possible. That sensor really eliminates the guesswork.
Anyone have suggestions on how to stop a fan belt from squealing? Aside from electric fans and water pump that is. Belt is pretty tight. I might try scuffing the pulley with some sandpaper and getting a new belt to see if it helps. Sounds pretty awful when I roll on the throttle.
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A double pulley on the alternator and water pump will help. Next time you feel the need for
spending thousands of dollars a minor upgrade, you might think about including the pulleys ;D
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Most times the squeel is caused by a belt that is old enough to harden or has been "burned" on the outer rub areas and is hardened enough not to get a good grip. Usually a new belt will cure it. I like the double pulley set-up that Jay mentioned and use them.
I know it's more money, but a Holley pump tuning kit is a "must have" for carb tuning. Investing in a pump cam kit and a couple squirter sizes above and below where you're at now will allow you to play with the combo to see what the engine wants and needs. Every engine is different, so just start with what you have and experiment to see what it likes.
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A double pulley on the alternator and water pump will help. Next time you feel the need for spending thousands of dollars a minor upgrade, you might think about including the pulleys ;D
Water pump already has a double pulley as it was a stock AC and PS car. Wonder how hard it would be to locate a double pulley for the alternator. Then again with my luck I'll end up needing to replace the entire harness, every bulb and fuse.. maybe I'll take that $2 worth of gaskets out of the glove box for a refresher. ;D
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Here you go with a two groove pulley.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6809/overview/make/ford
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Here you go with a two groove pulley.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6809/overview/make/ford
^^^ Thanks! I picked up a new Gates belt last night, if that does not cure it I know where my next stop is now. ;)
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Here you go with a two groove pulley.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6809/overview/make/ford
Best $13 I've spent so far this month.. I got mine on Ebay.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_3837_zps1d9f6a6d.jpg)
Had to use "Master pro" belts as the Gates and Goodyear belts ride too high in the V and don't make enough contact. But no more sqwealing belts when I roll on the throttle!!
:D
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Last update nearly 3 years ago... guess it's time. Car has since had a new interior installed, a new set of 17" wheels (9" in rear.. 7" up front) and I just got it back from paint yesterday. 5 coats of single stage candle apple red.... just happens to be the stock color.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_2522_zpsikltl8m2.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/amdscooter/media/IMG_2522_zpsikltl8m2.jpg.html)
Looks a shade lighter in direct sunlight.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_2516_zpspfh1q8al.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/amdscooter/media/IMG_2516_zpspfh1q8al.jpg.html)
Just in time for the summer driving season! :)
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8) 8) 8)
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Puurrdee.