FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Yellow Truck on April 21, 2019, 03:48:14 PM
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So I didn't really read the installation instructions closely enough and didn't notice that it said "should be installed ... with the motor motor on top." It would have been helpful if it was in BOLD and CAPS, but still no excuse for not reading them carefully. Anyway, I installed it with the motor under the pump, and it worked fine for 3 years and a total of about 50 hours of running time (tops).
Went to move the truck from Calgary to Vancouver Island, and the mover was going to put the truck in the moving van. It was -30 out the day it moved, truck was outside overnight so we could get the garage ready to load, and I put a space heater (small electric) under the hood so it would start. No problem, but as it was being driven up onto the tow truck bed to lift it up to the moving van the tow operator was hooking the straps to the frame and noticed the pump was smoking. Shut it down, got it into the van, and about a month later had the truck delivered to the new house.
Went out to sort it out today and the pump had failed. Pulled it off and it was fried. Gas had gotten in and it is burnt. I think I'd like to change to a quieter pump and have been told Carter pumps are quieter. Now I am running a 445, hydraulic roller cam with 234/240 duration at 0.050 lift, BBM heads, a Holley Street Dominator intake, and a Quick Fuel 830 SS. The Holley is rated for 110 gph at 9 PSI, and it is preset for 14 PSI.
Do I need 110 GPH? What can an engine like this actually use? Also, I see Carter has some pumps preset for 7 PSI. Is this a better idea than regulating a 14 PSI pump down to 7 PSI?
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4600hp/overview/
regulate to 5.5psi. Good luck sir.
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Thanks, Drew. BTW really liked your explanation of a carb running through both primary and secondary and running out of air in the rather sad thread about AJ's engine disaster on the dyno.
I note in the link to the Summit ad it says the pump will push 50 GPH, I assume from the fact you recommended it that 50 GPH is plenty, but I still wonder how much a 445 can actually burn at WOT.
I also note that it is regulated to 4.5 PSI in the Summit ad, you suggest regulating the pressure to 5.5. First, if the pump only puts out 4.5, why regulate to 5.5? Second, are you actually suggesting that I still need to regulate the pressure in a secondary regulator? I would love to eliminate the regulator but not if it is providing a valuable service.
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Drew, those Carters are made in china. i certainly would recommend something different, i know the price is attractive but i for one like to have some faith i'm not going to be burnt to a crisp from a chi-com pump
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Fred, not a fan of Chinese manufacturing (even if my iPhone is made in Taiwan) but I don't want another Holley because they are so loud. May take the chance.
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I have three of these pumps.
One on each vehicle and one as a spare. My daily driver 390 in the pickup and the other in my Galaxie, where it feeds 447ci.
been about 5 years, no issues. But ya know how it goes, companies swap manufacturing and the quality changes.
I can only speak to my experience.
I used to recommend the QuickFuel Billet regulators as well, but now that they were bought by Holley, I dunno if they've changed or not.
Yes yes Summit states that this pump makes 4.5psi this isn't true on either of my vehicles.
With factory small tubing the pressure is 5.5psi unregulated. On my car with -8 running from the tank pickup to the carbs where it splits to -6 It will run higher pressures, upwards of 7.5psi. You stated you had a regulator, so no worry either way.
Any rate, just my two cents
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I switched from a modified old blue Holley. I went to the new billet HP150. It is a gerotor design and is whisper quiet. If the engine is running, I have to look at the gauge to make sure the pump is on.....Even if the engine is off, you can barely hear it.
You could get the smaller HP125 if you want.
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Fred, not a fan of Chinese manufacturing (even if my iPhone is made in Taiwan) but I don't want another Holley because they are so loud. May take the chance.
I’ve had Holleys and have a Carter in my car now, it’s not exactly quiet. I can hear mine over the engine at idle, for instance.
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Just wondering, but why not just use a mechanical fuel pump? I assume it is mainly a street car. A good mechanical fuel pump should have no problem feeding a healthy FE engine, no noise, no electrical concerns.
Concerning the Holley "Blue" electric pumps, other than being noisy, I have had very good luck with them, I had one in my 85 Mustang Stock Eliminator car, that I raced from 2003 until I sold it 2 years ago, as far as I know, that same pump is still working fine. And my Fairmont has had the same "blue" pumps under the car for over 30 years, still work fine.
But when I needed to chose a fuel pump for my 428 CJ powered 59 2 door sedan project, I went with a Carter mechanical unit, that looks just like a factory 428 CJ pump. I don`t know where this pump was made, hopefully it works well, whenever I get around to finishing it.
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I ran a mechanical on mine as well, only reason I am swapping now is for the EFI. Pretty affordable alternative
Otherwise, I'd likely swap what you have for the same, mounting it correctly of course :)
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Just a note: you always need to put the motor on TOP...as that is more of a safety device then anything else. If the seals fail, you don't want gas getting down into the electric motor...BOOM!
I've seem them mounted in all kinds of odd ways, mostly not safe! That red Willys I worked on.........it was in the TRUNK, on it's side bolted to the radius of the wheelwell above the fuel tank!!! Ugh, all kinds of wrong.
Those blue pumps will fail for NO reason at all, not because it was mounted upside down. I had two, had to constantly rotate them on the wagon for 1/2 a summer. Got tired of dealing with them and replaced it with a Mallory 140 with a return system That was decades ago.
What is the GPH of the mechanical pump? That is more the issue then the pressure. Most all the electrics are pretty high on pressure, thus you have to regulate them.
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Mallory 110GPH is a decent pump and quiet. Any of the G-rotor pumps will make much less noise. Holley Blue - made for cheap azz race cars. Noisy, leaky, cheap. Not recommended.
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I ran a mechanical on mine as well, only reason I am swapping now is for the EFI. Pretty affordable alternative
Otherwise, I'd likely swap what you have for the same, mounting it correctly of course :)
EFI usually wants to see 25 PSI or more depending on the design of the EFI. Holley EFI is regulated to 25 PSI, where factory stuff is likely to be more like 60 PSI. You'll want a different pump depending on what you're using to 'shoot' the gas into the engine.
KS
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I ran a mechanical on mine as well, only reason I am swapping now is for the EFI. Pretty affordable alternative
Otherwise, I'd likely swap what you have for the same, mounting it correctly of course :)
EFI usually wants to see 25 PSI or more depending on the design of the EFI. Holley EFI is regulated to 25 PSI, where factory stuff is likely to be more like 60 PSI. You'll want a different pump depending on what you're using to 'shoot' the gas into the engine.
KS
That's why i said I was swapping :) He doesn't have EFI, so the mechanical would work fine....FYI mine needs to run high 50s, but even that is a tuning consideration on EFI depending opn injector size and duty cycle. Some guys like high pressure for the atomization, but you can only go so far
Also, I haven't see a TBI kit run at 25 since the old days, would be sort of a sloppy big injector compared to modern kits.
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Rory - I'm not going mechanical because the engine is in the truck and there is no eccentric on the end of the cam. So it is another electric for me.
Jared - the HP125 is more than twice the price of the Carter. I think I'll take my chances with a Carter for the price.
Still curious what one of these old dinosaurs can pull in terms of GPH.
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Been a long time since was involved - but the old HP Carter was a darn good little pump. Fuel was intentionally circulated through the motor to keep it cool. They put out plenty of fuel for most street builds. Around 70 gallons per hour - math is 70 times +/- 6 lbs per gallon equals 420 pounds of fuel per hour. Assuming a brake specific of .5 (pretty conservative these days) you can support 840 horsepower with that - leaving you with perhaps a 60-70% margin of safety to account for line drag, bends and such.
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Got the Carter today, will install it tomorrow and then try to find the coolant leak. Interesting, the Carter is SUPPOSED to be installed with the pump over the motor, still feel stupid for installing the Holley that way, just not as stupid.
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Got the Carter in yesterday. Surprised at the small gauge wires, but it works. It is much quieter than the Holley. In a pleasantly surprising turn I had some fuel leaks from the carb inlet (had to re-jet it for sea level operation) and was looking for new inlet gaskets at the local auto parts place. They didn't have them but the previous owner was there and he thought he had some at home.
He called me later to say the ones he had were perished but gave me the phone number of one of my new neighbours (I just moved) who had some. The neighbour is an older fellow with a small machine shop in his garage and bins of Holley parts, and a cobra replica.
Good luck to meet some locals who know the local suppliers and who have a supply of parts. Should be able to get it buttoned up and started today.
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For what it is worth, the Carter is MUCH quieter than the Holley Blue. I haven't had any downside to swapping the Holley for the Carter, except for having to pony up for the Carter after burning up the Holley.
I am extremely happy with how it is running - lumpy enough on idle but not labouring, hits hard at 2,000 up to 6,000. I am still getting some run-on (dieseling). The primary and secondary plates are closed down as much as possible. Barry R suggested on at least two occasions a cut off solenoid. I do have a spare 12V line under the hood (dumped the electric choke), but is this a standard product or something I have to put together from parts?
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Good to hear the CarterHP is still a great pump. I've been thrilled with mine.
Sure make priming a carb and checking for leaks with the engine off a breeze.
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Could Barry have meant an idle solenoid ??
https://www.google.com/search?ei=qmkAXd2wGdL2swWj_rDIDA&q=cut+off+solenoid+for+holley+carb
Ricky.
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I think those were typically for like a/c, raising the idle slightly to compensate for the load. But, no reason it couldn't be used for anti dieseling. As long as it has enough stroke to close the throttle when power is removed.
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Could Barry have meant an idle solenoid ??
https://www.google.com/search?ei=qmkAXd2wGdL2swWj_rDIDA&q=cut+off+solenoid+for+holley+carb
Ricky.
I hope Barry will chime in with some specifics.
Unrelated to the run-on problem I found it very strange that when I pulled the coach off the moving van it was low on coolant, and had coolant on the top of the intake as well as a drip down the front of the engine. Since I got here I topped up the coolant and haven't seen any sign of a leak since.
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The Idle solenoid was used on several HP cars OEM style without AC. Like BOSS 429 , HEMI426
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Im with Rory, and I have a couple gennie CARTER made "carter" pumps, they are decent pumps on a mild street car, but for anything that is going to see some track time with slicks, I love holley blues, and I find them anvil reliable. They have to mounted so that there is always fuel "head" on the inlet side, below and behind the tank, if they cavitate, they die. Other than that, very reliable, for me at least. And personally, I LIKE the noise, you always know they are working... ;D
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Im with Rory, and I have a couple gennie CARTER made "carter" pumps, they are decent pumps on a mild street car, but for anything that is going to see some track time with slicks, I love holley blues, and I find them anvil reliable. They have to mounted so that there is always fuel "head" on the inlet side, below and behind the tank, if they cavitate, they die. Other than that, very reliable, for me at least. And personally, I LIKE the noise, you always know they are working... ;D
Actually, there is another way for them to die - install them with the pump above the motor, then start the vehicle in -25. The seals and pump drive shaft contract at different rates so fuel can seep into the motor and burn it up. Other than that (and the noise) it was a reliable pump.
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Im with Rory, and I have a couple gennie CARTER made "carter" pumps, they are decent pumps on a mild street car, but for anything that is going to see some track time with slicks, I love holley blues, and I find them anvil reliable. They have to mounted so that there is always fuel "head" on the inlet side, below and behind the tank, if they cavitate, they die. Other than that, very reliable, for me at least. And personally, I LIKE the noise, you always know they are working... ;D
Actually, there is another way for them to die - install them with the pump above the motor, then start the vehicle in -25. The seals and pump drive shaft contract at different rates so fuel can seep into the motor and burn it up. Other than that (and the noise) it was a reliable pump.
Well, yes, but I kinda figured that was a given ;). Pumping valve lapping compound through them will do it as well... ;D
Actually there is another possible, you guys down there have all that ethanol laced stuff they sell as "gas" ;D I am not sure how they do with that slop, I use Chevron 94, its corn squeezins free.
Sorry, just realized you are a fellow Canuck, but I don't know what they have in the prairies for gas.
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I was running Shell, but switched to a higher octane with some ethanol. Now on Vancouver island I am running Chevron 94 with no corn syrup, and it is quite happy. Helps that -25 F starts are no longer in the mix.
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I was running Shell, but switched to a higher octane with some ethanol. Now on Vancouver island I am running Chevron 94 with no corn syrup, and it is quite happy. Helps that -25 F starts are no longer in the mix.
you are gonna love chevron 94. Good stuff, if you are running tight squish, outside air, blocked heat risers and a decent rear gear it will take 210 psi cranking no problem. I have run 12.7/1 on it with a 280ish@050 cam, 4.56s, 4500 converter and outside air, no problem. its the good stuff.