FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 67428GT500 on April 11, 2019, 12:21:01 AM
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Do most find it common to loose a quart of fluid after driving a couple hours in warm temperatures. There is no loss into the oil, nor so I see anything obvious.
-Keith
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I have never noticed a coolant loss like that. It is a closed system even on older cars, unless the pressure has built up to the point where it is vented. Check/change radiator cap?
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I would have the system and the cap pressure tested. Now if you are overfilling it will push out with expansion, but it will stop. For reference though, I haven’t added any in my Mustang since the EFI install in 2009/2010
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Yes, you didn't say it had stopped after pushing out what could have been excess coolant.
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Same - if you have a 16 or 22 lb cap, system is tight and you have a coolant recovery tank, there should be no loss.
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It's a '67 500. Just a overflow tube. No recovery tank. If the loss was into a cylinder it would show up in the oil. The cap is a new 13LB Autolite reproduction. I also noticed that even after being gone three weeks and coming back and taking the radiator cap off It had pressure in the radiator. Has anyone had an intake gasket leak into an end intake port and just burn it off?
-Keith
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if it coming out a overflow hose,if it had a overflow tank it may suck it back in instead of out on the ground out the hose.
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I won't put an overflow tank on a Shelby. No way to hide it. I don't see signs of overflow from the tube, but I am just running distilled water and water wetter. I think because of the way it evaporates it's harder to detect. There are no puddles of overflow when I park it either.
-Keith
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Well, that's where it's likely going - out the overflow tube. Let it work it's self out and then monitor. If there is no further loss and no cooling issues, then it's just the way it is. IIRC, before recovery tanks you'd run a good 1/2" plus below the filler neck after several heat cycles. If it hold pressure, then it's just doing what it does. I personally would put a smaller non-descript removable tank on it, easy to remove for shows. If you ever put it on a track and they look at it, you'll be waved off without a recovery tank. Hard and fast rule everywhere.
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I personally would put a smaller non-descript removable tank on it, easy to remove for shows. If you ever put it on a track and they look at it, you'll be waved off without a recovery tank. Hard and fast rule everywhere.
Ditto, even a small 20oz plastic pop bottle zip tied beside the radiator works. One snip and it's easily removed. At least that'll give you an answer if that's where it's going.
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a water bottle is all i use,and it sits on the front frame rail.i could take it off in 10 sec if you are worried about someone seeing it on your shelby.i can see your point.is it 100% original?
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I personally would put a smaller non-descript removable tank on it, easy to remove for shows. If you ever put it on a track and they look at it, you'll be waved off without a recovery tank. Hard and fast rule everywhere.
Ditto, even a small 20oz plastic pop bottle zip tied beside the radiator works. One snip and it's easily removed. At least that'll give you an answer if that's where it's going.
The coolest catch can of all time, in the 70's at least (!) was a Coors beer can. We here in the Midwest then could rarely even get a Coors unless one travled to CO or CA.
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I saw a rat rod with an old Coca Cola bottle in Grapevine Tx last week. I will try and find something I can hide under the battery tray. Yes, It is a Real Shelby. Uh, kind of stock.. I will try and post a couple pictures here.
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great looking car,my favorite one
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Thank you. I did everything but the exterior paint.
-Keith
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Not sure why it being a Shelby disallows use of a recovery tank. Shelbys don't clean up after theirselves?
I use one of these:
http://www.billetspecialties.com/cooling-components/overflow-tanks/
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There is no room to run even a two inch on the right side of a big block radiator. As for cleaning up, It's not leaving fluid anywhere I have parked.
I drilled a hole in the top of a 20 oz BAI bottle. Short enough to set under the battery tray corner. When I drive it tomorrow evening I should know pretty quick. This isn't your dad's truck, or a drag car. It's a real Shelby. You don't start cutting things or drilling holes to accommodate bottles and such that don't belong. I am running distilled water at this point until I figure out where it's going. If I could hide it on the outside of the engine compartment in the fender area that would work well. I don't know the system would pull the coolant from the tank back into the radiator as it cooled.
-Keith
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Big block radiator here and it fits fine mounted to the side of the radiator, but it's not a Shelby, but it is a Cobra (Fairlane).
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There really is no room on the right.
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I have see more than a few water pumps pee out of the hole a few minutes after mill is turned then stop
Some would leak 30 or minutes later then stop
Shine a light under the bottom of water pump weep hole perhaps ......
Ricky.
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I would just reiterate, anything before a pressure test is sorta guessing. The tools are cheap and easy to use, and will pay for themselves with peace of mind
Pressure check the cap, see when it releases compared to it's rating, then take the cap adapter off and pressure test the system and let it see to see if anything starts weeping.
It is true a catch can is nice (and generally required to race) and even nicer is a recovery style can and cap that will draw fluid back in when cool, but in the end, the tool will let you a lot.
I don't use mine every day, and in fact, I bet once a year nowadays, but when I do, nothing will do what it does for providing info on leaks. The next step after that can be dye, but I haven't had to go there on a classing engine because you can typically see everything pretty easily