FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: Jim Comet on November 19, 2018, 08:48:33 AM
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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim
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I can't offer up much about the springs, but my only thought that came to mind is the use of 8" rim with the 10" tire. You might not actually gain much with a wider tire due to the edges being rolled in from the narrow rim. I know plenty of guys likely have done it, but something to think about.
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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim
No experience with your desired combo but.....
Amazingly, a trailer supply shop will have your springs or can source them pretty quickly. Link provided just as an example. Contact a similar firm where you live and ask around. Btw, learned of this trick for car springs while having our old race car trailer worked on.
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Detroit Eaton Spring made 2" wide springs for road race Mustangs and should be able to help you too.
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Have you tried asking Calvert if they have that option available with their split mono leafs? Or who they might recommend?
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I run 4 1/2 backspace on the Falcon with 1/8" thick spacer and the slicks just clear the springs. Actually, DRs clear by a hair and real 28x10 slicks just barely rub at 12.5 lbs. As above, I'd ping Calvert and see what they have. Alternately, you're looking at a spring re-location.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I am kind of hoping go low buck right now. What I was wondering is if any mustang, Fairlane or other models might use a 2 inch wide spring that would fit dimensionally. I could always add a leaf to adjust ride height. I definitely will look for a better option in the future but right now I am dollar poor and time rich. Jim
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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim
I to have a 66 mercury comet cyclone I'm restoring and I'm using the Calvert system and their springs are 2 and a half inches. However, at Crites restorations you can by a spring relocation kit which will give you 6 inches. http://www.critesperformanceparts.com/ Just scroll down and the kit is $210. Hope this helps.
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The 62-65 Fairlanes used the 2" wide rear leaf spring.
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I'll check out the 62-65 spring dimensions when I get to work on Wednesday and let you know if they are similar to the 66-67 springs.
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I think you're under estimating the potential of a nine inch slick.A ten inch Hoosier is the only tire I have seen to work with a eight inch wheel.Nine inch tire on eight inch wheel is your best bet.Then leverage it with Cal Tracks.Look at any Stocker.
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The 70 Mustang here as the same leaf width and has way more inner tire clearance, like 1", than the Falcon when using the same exact tire and wheel. Has to do with the seat location on the axle and under car locating points. As for 9 vs 10, the 10s are more common and maybe a couple of $ cheaper. But if you need more contact patch, taller gives more contact than wider. Going from a 26x9 to a 28x9 would increase the contact patch more than going from say a 26x9 to a 26x10.
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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim
I had 325/50 x 15’s under my 1967 Fairlane. Stock wheel houses. No mods to fender lips.
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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim
Blew the link before! Here it is: https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/4-leaf-trailer-double-eye-spring-kit-for-3500-lb-axle-2-springs/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlbnKgsvl3gIVTrnACh3k9QtwEAQYAiABEgL2a_D_BwE
No experience with your desired combo but.....
Amazingly, a trailer supply shop will have your springs or can source them pretty quickly. Link provided just as an example. Contact a similar firm where you live and ask around. Btw, learned of this trick for car springs while having our old race car trailer worked on.
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My brother thinks he has a pair off of a chrysler product that match up dimensionally. Ill compare them and post the results in a couple weeks. Thanks, Jim
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At one time calvert racing had a 2" wide spring they called it their super stock spring .I don't know if they still offer it though .On my 67 comet I run 9"x29.5"s They hook up fine for me I narrowed my rear 7/8" and have no inner wheel well .I have 3/8" tire to spring no lip at the outer wheel well and went through much trial and error with wheel spacers .Section width makes or breaks this job .And don't believe all specs from these tire manufactures .Good luck to you wide tires and comets are difficult to say the least.Doug
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"Section width makes or breaks this job .And don't believe all specs from these tire manufactures."
Truer words were never spoken! Yes, it's a crap shoot when things get real close as while the tread edge may fit well the section width's bulge at your selected tire pressure can really mess you up. Be careful here as noted since the section widths (as noted by the maker) varies a lot based upon wheel width AND tire pressure! BTDT!
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My experience with section width is a painful one .Whenever I decided to go with these 29.5 x9s the section width was supposed to be 11.400 that is what they were advertised to be .Well it turned out they were 11.800 .After a week of hard frustrating work they fit sort off .Still tight at the inner wheel well and leaf spring also .The next set I bought were 11.600 .They went on with no drama or cursing .Famous last words of the tire manufacture .Don't worry they will fit just fine !My only concern is what will the next set be like .Doug
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I had 325/50 x 15’s under my 1967 Fairlane. Stock wheel houses. No mods to fender lips.
Got any pics of that?
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On my 66 Caliente convertible I used 2" wide springs from my 64 Comet. The convertible won't allow for widening the wheel tubs because of where the top rams are but the springs gain space to make a 275 tire fit comfortably.
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Are you guys with Comet/Fairlanes that run in the 10's adding any reinforcements to the front leaf spring mount area? The inner goes through the subframe and should be fine but the outer is just a stamped piece of steel. Is this an area of concern on a 3500lb car running 10.70's?? Here is a picture of my 2 inch wide springs. These should allow me to run 29x9-1/2 slicks. Jim
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I haven't done anything to mine. I've been as quick as low 11s, but I have also put 1000s of rounds on the car in the last 15 years with the Calverts so a lot of potential wear and tear. Car is up on the lift now getting a new fuel system, leaves, mounts and Cals look just fine. Shock bodies are beat up from burnouts and such. 4.56 9" with a 4600 stall converter, so I hit the tail end hard every pass. Having said that, it'd be easy enough to craft a 1/8" steel reinforcing plate to stiffen either the outside or inside with a shaved bushing. Remember in a leaf spring, the front half is just a locator and the back half does all the work.
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Many older cars used 2|" wide rear leaf springs, that is what my 59 2 door sedan has. I have a new set that I need to install in my 59, if you want, I can measure the center to center length, and amount of arc at the center bolt area.
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I think these will be ok. It sat a little bit low so I added another leaf to gain the needed tire clearance. I'll know shortly when I get them installed. I am just worried about the strength of the front spring eye support which is stamped steel.
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Here is the area I was wondering about.
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Jim I have been racing my 67 comet for 10-12 years mostly run 6.90 in the eighth mile never any issues at that front spring mount .I have cal tracs and use their springs .Maybe you could do some additional welding or add some reinforcement .But mine have never looked suspicious .Let us know how the springs work .Maybe us comet guys will get some clearance for our slicks one day .But I kinda doubt it ! Doug
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On my 62 Ranchero the springs mount flimsier than that, they actually have a loose cupped washer that fits in a big hole (about 2" or so diameter) that holds the bushing in. The bracket is a similar stamping and it sure looks like the spring could try to bend that bracket forward and break it away from the rocker and framerail. I made some 14ga steel upright gussets welded to the front side of it. Two each side. Kind of like leaning posts to prop up a fence.
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Also, in the leaf spring picture I see the Iso Clamp, what looks to be an aluminum wedge or shim and a big steel slug as well as that rusty flat washer.
If it's what i'm thinking it's for, don't use those Iso Clamps, the hole in the rear end perch can be bushed with that washer or weld new spring pads on , the pads should be gusseted on the back anyways.
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Here is the area I was wondering about.
I think mine is flimsier than that. Will take a look and post a pic when I can.
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Tom, here is what I have been running. I used aluminum bar stock to replace the rubber. This worked pretty well as I my 60ft. times are in the 1.4's. I am looking for a way to eliminate the top hat/iso clamp, but I still need a way to locate the axle. This is made a little more difficult with the narrow springs because the spring bolt is now not centered and lined up with the openings in the rear axle perch. I may weld the 1 1/2 axle perch hole to match the 3/8 spring bolt head, but I still need a way to put my 4deg wedge in for my pinion angle. I am struggling on how to locate the axle to the spring bolt as the degree wedge is a little thicker than the spring bolt head. Maybe I need to get a taller spring bolt head? Does anyone have any idea's? Thanks, Jim
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I would skip the tophat the aluminium spacer ,weld the axle and drill new holes
in the right place
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If you need to gusset the leaf spring perches, maybe an idea to replace the old ones with new 2" wide perches with the right size center bolt hole. Than you could weld the new perches at the correct pinion angle, and not need any tapered wedges.
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With the additional leaf spring I am not positive what I will need for a wedge to dial in my pinion angle. I believe I have come up with an idea that will work. It involves a new top plate that will locate on the spring bolt and have 2 studs that will hold the pinion angle wedge while protruding into the spring perch to locate the axle. Hard to describe but I will document it and post some pictures when I build them next week. Jim
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Well, after many trials and not wanting to put on new perches right now, this is what I came up with. I will monitor it over the summer and may decide next fall to just put on different perches. I made everything you see here and patterned this off of both CalTracs and the Assassin bars. Jim
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You probably could have welded an offset bushing into that spring pad center hole. Make a 1/4" thick round disc with the hole offset to one side. Heat on that pad shouldn't warp the housing.
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Tom I believe you are right. If I have any future issues or concerns, I will probably just weld a plate to the bottom of the perch with the correctly placed hole.Jim