FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: AlanCasida on May 27, 2018, 08:10:56 PM
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I pulled the 521 out of my Galaxie this weekend for a routine check up and to see why it was using oil. The oil consumption I believe is from oil coming through the valve stem seals. The real problem I saw was what looked like scratches in #4 cylinder but really felt like high spots. When I pulled the piston out I found the top ring looked like material had flaked off of it. It had dark patches in it where all the other piston's rings were shiny. I also confirmed that the "scratches" were indeed raised lines in the cylinder wall and some emery cloth would take it off. I am using Total Seal gapless top rings and am wondering if anyone else has seen this. All the other cylinders look good so I am not sure if I want to get a single gapless ring set or replace them all with something more conventional. I know this isn't FE but I value you guys' opinion over anywhere else on the 'net. Thanks. Alan
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Detonation knocked the moly out of that top ring. Oil contamination will cause detonation so it could be a chicken or egg deal.
Personally I would not use a hapless ring on anything.
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Detonation knocked the moly out of that top ring. Oil contamination will cause detonation so it could be a chicken or egg deal.
Personally I would not use a hapless ring on anything.
Thanks, Barry. That was the way I was leaning. Lesson learned. It was using quite a bit of oil so the detonation thing stands to reason. They are Ford Racing SCJ heads I bought new and have the orange valve stem seals. All the cylinders were burning oil.
Is there a ring you can recommend?
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On a good note, those crank journals sure look good after all that abuse! :)
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"I would not use a hapless ring on anything". Freudian slip or intentional mis-statement?
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Both!
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Alan, maybe look @ a set of Mahle rings with the napier 2nd, it really cuts the wall drag... Are you going to have Guessfords torque plate hone it??..........Tom
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"I would not use a hapless ring on anything". Freudian slip or intentional mis-statement?
It was an accident.
But an accurate accident... 8)
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Alan, maybe look @ a set of Mahle rings with the napier 2nd, it really cuts the wall drag... Are you going to have Guessfords torque plate hone it??..........Tom
A friend of mine recommended I have it rigid honed so I am going to talk to George tomorrow. I sent him some pics.
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Alan,
"I" see too much cylinder wall damage to allow proper ring seal . The chips of plasma moly are very hard on cylinder walls when they flake out. If you can catch your finger nail in the scratches now , they will still be there after honing and limit ring seal. If the cause isn't corrected , you will have the same problem again unless you go away from a plasma moly ring to a steel ( only) ring which can not chip or flake. lack of end gap is another potential cause for chipping of moly rings. Too many guys think that tight ring end gap is critical and under gap them. Leak down numbers are affected FAR more by the quality of the ring seal all the way around the bore not just at the gap. You might check to see if the rings were butting. If so add more gap.
Randy
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My digital gauge I bought at Summit for $20 years ago finally died. I went back to my old analog version(that I broke the glass in last year). I agree, you will be hard pressed to find two that read similar. Just like weather stations. As long as you use the same one, and the numbers work for you.
I agree, when they are 20# off, that is excessive. I don't even try to rely on the $2 version they give away at Azone. It's hard to find anything accurate, even from "brand name" stuff as they are all Chinesium.
I'm on the hunt for a GOOD floor jack. I've found them into the $300-up category. Still think it will be Taiwan junk with a pricey name on it.
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"I would not use a hapless ring on anything". Freudian slip or intentional mis-statement?
It was an accident.
But an accurate accident... 8)
LOL...accurate indeed.
I concur...no gapless rings.
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My digital gauge I bought at Summit for $20 years ago finally died. I went back to my old analog version(that I broke the glass in last year). I agree, you will be hard pressed to find two that read similar. Just like weather stations. As long as you use the same one, and the numbers work for you.
I agree, when they are 20# off, that is excessive. I don't even try to rely on the $2 version they give away at Azone. It's hard to find anything accurate, even from "brand name" stuff as they are all Chinesium.
I'm on the hunt for a GOOD floor jack. I've found them into the $300-up category. Still think it will be Taiwan junk with a pricey name on it.
?? ???
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Looks like he was replying to the tire gauge thread.