FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: mbrunson427 on April 30, 2018, 11:51:09 AM
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We are getting the new engine combo in the '64 Fairlane figured out and have kind of landed in an odd situation where we need a shift light that we can program for each shift. Not sure if anyone is running something similar to this?
I've done a bit of searching since Saturday. I can find one that turns difference colors, so for example the 1-2 shift would be blue, 2-3 would be yellow. You just set the colors based on RPM, but I figured that may be a little tricky to get used to.
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What I've done in the past if I only needed 2 different shift points was to use 2 shift lights, that's for an automatic where you're just shifting into 2nd and 3rd. Probably not a practical solution if you're running a 4 speed or more. The MSD "Grid" system ignition allows you to program individual shift points for each gear. I think the MSD Programmable Digital 7 Plus also allows individual shift points, you'd want to verify that. I also think most of the older Programmable Digital 7 Plus boxes allowed individual shift points too. When MSD introduced the "Grid" ignition they discontinued most of the other Programmable Digital 7 Plus boxes they made, but I've noticed there are quite a few of those for sale used on the internet if you look around. Many drag racers are replacing the Digital 7 boxes with the Grid. If you do look at something like that you will want to check the NHRA rules, not all the Programmable Digital 7 Plus boxes are NHRA legal in many classes, including some bracket classes. Whether that's a concern of course depends on where you race and the type of racing. Many of the MSD instruction sheets are available on line, so you can check if a particular box will do what you want. I'm not familiar with the shift light you mentioned, but it may not be as confusing as you suspect. If you set it so that the shifts will light up in order, it really doesn't matter which color comes up, you just shift each time it lights. I think some of the EFI controllers also will support individual shift points.
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https://www.autometer.com/black-dpss-tube-level-2.html
https://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1128.pdf
I just ran into this one.... It'll do up to 4 shifts, plus a line lock or trans brake rev light. It's the same color for every shift, but I'm not sure if it will eliminate the 1st shift point or if it will flash twice. For example, if the 1-2 shift point is set at 6000, and the 2-3 shift point is set at 6500, not sure when you're running through second gear if it'll light up at 6000 and then again at 6500, or if its smart enough to drop the 6000 point and only light up at 6500.
I think you're probably right. Might just end up with two stacked on top of each other.
The car runs a bit better when it's short shifted 1-2.
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A quick YouTube search came up with this video of that Autometer light. Looks like it is programmable for different shift points according to gear changes. This guys sets it at 3500, 4000, 4500 and 5000 in succession. Can't say I like the light though because the center lighted numerals are VERY distracting and would make it harder to react to when you're running through the gears quickly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BWQKWjz6Fs
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Thanks Doug! That thing seems a little high-tech! Not sure if we want to be poking buttons and whatnot while trying to stage. It is kind of cool that it has that affect on the cars tach during playback.
If the line lock would trigger the whole shift sequence setup, instead of poking the buttons on it, it may make a lot of sense to do that one. I'll probably end up calling them and trying to talk to someone who knows how it works.
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This Biondo RPM Switch will do the same thing with any 12V light and it's cheaper. Usually used for air/electric shift control.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Biondo/376/DDI-1067/10002/-1
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This Biondo RPM Switch will do the same thing with any 12V light and it's cheaper. Usually used for air/electric shift control.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Biondo/376/DDI-1067/10002/-1
The RPM switch Chris posted looks like the best option. I wasn't aware anyone was offering that.
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I'm curious why you think you need to shift at different RPM's. It would seem that as long as you know where your power peak is, then a few hundred above that should give the best results. In my case, I have a bad habit of short shifting the 1-2 and seldom see my shift light come on in the other gears (except 4th). Now, I haven't had my engine (s) on a dyno so where to shift is a guess anyway but these things usually have a long flat torque line and a few hundred RPM either way doesn't seem to matter with my setup.
A peaky small CI is a different story since the window is narrower. I have also seen those lights with the RPM indicator included and all that flickering would make me mental. Anyway, the RPM activated switch seems like a good way to get what you're after.
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This Biondo RPM Switch will do the same thing with any 12V light and it's cheaper. Usually used for air/electric shift control.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Biondo/376/DDI-1067/10002/-1
This is perfect! Exactly what I was after. I read through their little manual and the operation of it makes a ton of sense. When the RPM's drop below 2000, it resets the computer and goes back to the beginning of the shift sequence, no buttons to push.
The reason for the change is pretty simple, the driver haha. It's a small block car with a 4.88 rear gear ratio, C4 transmission. It comes up on the 1-2 shift quick enough at the top of 1st gear that it's bouncing off the rev limiter. Need to set the shift point down maybe 200 so that the guy behind the wheel can do his job ::) We were considering setting the rev limiter back a bit, but that seems like the wrong band-aid for this problem.
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I run a 302 with a 4.56 gear, C4 and 4200 stall converter. I shift at 6K and yes, it's quick. if your driver LOL can't get it done, put an air shifter in it. You need to hit the same RPM on each shift. Short shifting 1-2 can put you to far below the torque peak and reduce your ET.
I'm about to put an air shifter in mine so I can quit watching the tach. The electric shift in the dragster showed me how much safer the car is when you don't have to manually make the shift. I can concentrate on driving.
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The other '64 we used to race wasn't a problem like this one is. It was a 482 FE, and actually about 1.5 seconds faster than this one is, but it was only running 3.91 rear gears. The 1-2 shift comes up a lot faster now, but everything beyond that is much slower.
Here's a couple pictures from this weekend. Green Comet is our friend Zack. He's a real solid driver. Got laddered up with him 2nd round which was kind of cool, but kind of stunk at the same time.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/d1mxlqu63/IMG_4836.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/46m3b8d3f/IMG_4841.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Okay... I see what you want to do. As for the air shift, c'mon. You slush box guys take an automatic transmission, put a manual valve body in it so you'll have something to do then add a RPM activated air shifter so the thing shifts automatically again. ;) Try a 5 speed stick with a 5.20 rear gear and you have some driving fun. (not my car btw)
https://youtu.be/dyfvOPxi9gE
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https://youtu.be/dyfvOPxi9gE
Love that car. I have a picture of it in my 66 Fairlane folder to keep me motivated towards mine, it is a coupe as well.
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The electric shift in the dragster showed me how much safer the car is when you don't have to manually make the shift. I can concentrate on driving.
Blasphemy! I would argue that shifting IS driving ;D
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https://youtu.be/0LVzI1ApW7I
Just in case you haven't seen this. A couple good drivers and shift lights required.
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I use a mechanical tach, that RPM switch looks like the answer for adding a shift light. Would the tach terminal come off the MSD box?
Since the first shift into second gear comes up much quicker than the other gears the shift light set lower makes up for the amount the RPM's climb while reacting. I think if you set each light to say 7400 and reacted to it the engine would overrev first.
Hitting he rev limiter kills more ET than shifting too soon.