FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 66sevets on April 21, 2018, 08:42:10 PM
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Was hoping to get a few in this spring but the weather wasn’t cooperating! Finally today got the car out for the first time. I’m no drag racer by any means so I really wanted to get a feel for the car before the beaver. It’s a 64 Comet with 482 stick. I was really nervous so much to think about and like I said I’m not a seasoned veteran of the drag strip. First run was totally not knowing if it would go straight, even using the line lock was a challenge because you have to think about it, I never had one before! Pulled into the burnout box and it’s like you got 3 things going on at the same time, clutch, brake, line lock button, shifter, and throttle! I had to think about taking my foot off the brake was ok! Got the tires hot and pulled up to stage and that all went well but still thinking about feet position and of line lock. I’m holding that shifter tight and the lights starts going. I hit a .5 light but never let go of the line lock button for a bit. 2.1 60 ft time and ran a 11.80. Second run I felt a bit better but didn’t get my rpms up enough on the burnout and the car drifted sideways a bit. Still had my thumb stuck on the button at the start 1.9 60 ft 11.35. Third and last run I got the burnout right but still had a sticky thumb on the button 1.9 60 ft 11.30. That’s in street trim with mufflers and air filter on, no tuning. I think I can get 10.90’s just learning to launch right. I can use some help next weekend, I’m open to all the advice I can get. See you guys at the beaver.
Steve M
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care to share the engine combo
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Pond aluminum block 4.25
Scat 4.25 crank and rods
Comp solid roller
Kieth Craft stage 2 edelbrock heads
Mohel pistons 10.8 comp
Tunnel wedge with 600 Holleys
Pops rockers
Crain ignition
Typical 482 recipe with lots of advice from forum members
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what was the mph on the runs ?
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121 on the rev limiter at 7200. 4:71 gear with 28 inch tires
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We've had very good luck on a similarly equipped BBC Chevelle by short shifting the 1-2 shift and leaving at a lower RPM. Couldn't get out of the 11-teens, started dropping the launch RPM until we got to about 3500, and shifted 1-2 at 5500 using a programmable shift light, then back up to 7000 after that, and got in the 10s with no other changes.
Certainly not saying it will work, but violent launches and screaming them in 1st seem to take away acceleration when you have a big inch engine
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You’re probably right I think I could be shifting sooner on most shifts. It all starts happening so fast once the lights go I never saw the tach until 4th gear. Mostly just shifting by instinct, the second run I was hiting the rev limiter, probably not good. I still have some adjusting to do on the caltracs and shocks. Hoping to get some advice at Beaver Springs. I didn’t have anyone with me so I didn’t get any video of the launch to see what the tires are doing. Need more seat time.
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Get a shift light mounted on the dash and you won't need to glance at the tach.
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Your story sounds exactly like mine, right down to forgetting to let off the line lock. Lots going on when you're not an experienced track racer, which I am not. It definitely is a very different experience than street racing.
Just curious if you're doing your burnout in 1st or 2nd gear? You can't get enough wheel speed in 1st gear to heat the tires properly. I started doing the burnout in 2nd gear and that helped a bunch. Lots of pros will start in 2nd or 3rd and shift to 4th to get lots of wheel speed, but that's not really possible with me, having a stock toploader. Those guys usually have clutchless trannys, and I can't afford to rebuild my trans every year or break parts on a regular basis.
Beaver is unique in that the track is uphill, so you definitely need the line lock on the start line. Twice I've forgotten to release it after launching and that just kills the 60' like you said. It just took me a few times of beating myself up about it before I had it in my brain to let off as soon as I started to release the clutch. Like you said....seat time and experience is the only way around that.
Just my opinion, but those gears seem a bit steep. Have you considered dropping to 4.56? That would keep you off the limiter at the top end, which would help your speed and ET a good bit.
Most of all, don't worry about making a mistake. I've made enough at the FE Reunion to make a 5 year old on a tricycle look good..lol That includes starting my burnout while still in the water, rolling through the light while I was concentrating on getting the line lock activated, launching and instantly bogging due to low launch RPMs, spinning all the way through 1st gear due to too high of a launch RPM, and countless missed shifts. Two years of Drag Week and years of street fun, and I never miss a shift. At the FE Reunion, I think I'm the king of missed shifts! This sort of stuff only happens around people that you don't want it to happen around! Such is life :P
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I use 2nd gear for burnouts. I saw the video of the Fairlanes with the guys shifting in the burnout box. They make it look easy. I’m a rookie but Having fun! The gear I know is steep I was hoping to fit some 30 inch tires in there. Still have 1 more gear too if I can hit it. But was thinking I might need to change it.
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I wouldn't worry about changing gears until everything else is sorted. Overgearing it like that does make it faster. You want to get up to speed as quickly as possible. Once you at that 121mph (or whatever) the ground is going by quicker, even if that is way before the finish line. If you changed to something like 3.70 let's say, it won't be getting to 121 until after the finish line so it's covering that ground slower.... takes longer.
Practice makes perfect and i'm sure a few more runs will help a bunch. I will be there at the Beaver to help or heckle.
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I hit a .5 light but never let go of the line lock button for a bit. 2.1 60 ft time and ran a 11.80. Second run I felt a bit better but didn’t get my rpms up enough on the burnout and the car drifted sideways a bit. Still had my thumb stuck on the button at the start 1.9 60 ft 11.35. Third and last run I got the burnout right but still had a sticky thumb on the button
You're not the only one to do that for sure. I've done that several times, and I finally set up a clutch pedal switch to release my line lock and 2 step on launch. And I've still managed to keep my thumb on my shifter switch after launching. Yea, that sure ruins a 60' time.
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You didn't say what rear tires, type of clutch or trans so hard to suggest much. One thing you don't want to be doing is changing gears in the burnout box. You'll kill the trans in a hurry unless it's a clutchless. Your rev limiter is probably lying by at least a few hundred RPM so don't be afraid to bump it up a bit. Your rear gear is a bit steep for that short of tire and a 30" would certainly help or else go down to a 4.30 gear to kill off some RPM.
And yes... remembering to take your thumb off the like lock is an acquired action. I ran a T-handle forever but a the pistol grip shifter is just way more natural to deal with. The clutch switch is also a good idea but I have mine wired just for the launch RPM and hope my thumb doesn't forget what it needs to do. Good luck at the beaver.
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I'm curious how you guys run a line lock switch on the clutch pedal? When staging, you need to slip the clutch to trip the staging lights. Does the line lock engage every time you push the clutch in? Is the switch adjusted to where it only disengages when the pedal is almost fully up? You'd have to have the tranny in neutral, then push on the brake, then the clutch, then release the brake, then engage it in gear, then slip the clutch without disengaging the line lock. Seems like more of a 'dance', and especially would not be friendly on a car that might be street driven.
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Tires are MT Et Street bias ply 11.50 28 15 with 15 lbs of air, clutch is a mcleod RXT twin disc which I know is not a great choice for drag racing. No shifting in the burnout box for me. Tom I look forward to meeting you.
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Does the line lock engage every time you push the clutch in? Is the switch adjusted to where it only disengages when the pedal is almost fully up?
My setup includes a relay, so that the shifter switch is the master switch and it triggers the relay, and then the pedal switch becomes active. (That may not be worded perfectly) So no, my clutch switch isn't activating the line lock or 2-step on it's own every time the clutch is applied. Mine is releasing closer to the floor, I had to fine tune the exact switch on/off point to match the clutch engagement point, that can be a little tedious.
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As of today 67* for Friday and 60* for Saturday.
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I have a Shelby style steering wheel with a horn. I have removed the semi circle part of horn ring to leave only the two arms. No horn, line lock wired to horn wire, hard to NOT release when launching.
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I have a Shelby style steering wheel with a horn. I have removed the semi circle part of horn ring to leave only the two arms. No horn, line lock wired to horn wire, hard to NOT release when launching.
That's a really cool idea! Never thought of that.
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Steve, where is the write up on the engine?
I would like to know cam specs and head flow. Greatly looking forward to seeing car in action.
JB
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Clutch pedal and horn button are both good ideas for the line lock!
JB, any write up would have been a few years back on the fe forum it took me a while to put this together. I worked in Brazil for 3 years 2009-2012 and bought parts for this 427, on the internet, while I was there to keep myself entertained. When I got home I dropped parts off at Survival and Barry put the short block together.
Cam lobes are Comp Extreme Energy Street lobes, solid roller
Exh. lobe #4876 Dur 254 @ .050 .660 lift w/1.7 rocker
Int. lobe #4877 Dur 260 @ .050 .666 lift w/1.7 rocker
Heads are out of the box Keith Craft stage 2. Here's the numbers although I remember being told by a forum member not to expect those numbers without touching them up.
Stage II cnc Porting
Decks Cleared
Competition Valve Job
Bowl Blended
Street and mild race
2.19/1.75 Valves
28" Water 2"x6" Pipe
Lift Intake CFM Exhaust CFM
.300 227 161
.400 276 195
.500 307 226
.600 324 249
.700 336 265
.800 344 276
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Those tires would probably be fine with just a good whack to clean them off, avoiding the water altogether. I use M/T drag radials on my street car. I pull around the water, give it a big rev and drop the clutch. Tires spin a couple rounds, then bite. I go straight to the line. I don't have a line lock on that car, and Byron is pretty level at the line, so the car doesn't roll once I stage. Just my two cents.
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BSD IS up hill , you need a linelock or you will drift bacwards , back in the day ( I was there since day one May 1971 ) we would hold the cars , lol not safe but it was what everone did
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I took my 65 Galaxie 3 years ago and tried to run it. That year there were 35 mph headwinds. I rolled back and red lighted every time I took my foot off the brake. I was just trying to get an et which didn't work but I did get a mph. started smelling clutch so I parked it.
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I think you are conservative on your ET estimates. With 600 hp in a 3200 lb car, this car has
Some 10.50’s in it. It just need a little dialing in.