FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: 427HISS on April 03, 2018, 10:04:37 PM
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I want to replace my current battery in the trunk system, in our 427 Cobra.
I beleive the wire gauge is too small, by looking at other cars I'seen, so what do I need for a real nice relocating kit ?
No A/C, power steering, Stereo etc.
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When you say the gauge is too small, what size is it now? Also, is you the battery wired with heavy cable to an underhood solenoid or has the solenoid been also moved to the trunk?
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/additional-tech/0806-turp-hows-and-whys-of-battery-relocation/
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If you already have the mounting setup and just need cable, I'd think it'd be cheaper to just get welding cable. It's generally more flexible than the cable you'd get in a kit, and should be cheaper, available any welding store.
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If you already have the mounting setup and just need cable, I'd think it'd be cheaper to just get welding cable. It's generally more flexible than the cable you'd get in a kit, and should be cheaper, available any welding store.
Yes, I used welding cable (IIRC, it is 0 cable, big!) on my Mach 1, running it forward to the OEM mounting point of the solenoid. Two decades in use w/o andy issues.
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You do well to study this - I put the solenoid in the truck on our relocated race cars. running an unfused hot cable through the car - IMHO - is just asking for a fire. With the solenoid in the truck, the long run to the starter is dead unless you are cranking the car. I have a box in the trunk to handle the power connections -
(http://raceabilene.com/misc/StartboxWiringDiagram.jpg)
Also
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml
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I haven't measured the gauge, but will. Also, when running the car in the summer heat, and turning off the engine for refueling, the starter would heat soak (assuming) and barely start or not at all. So I need to solve that issue as well. Maybe a starter blanket/cover ?
Also need a battery. Can't beleive how expensive they are these days. With my car, which type and brand would you advise ?
Optima red top ?
Need a battery tray too.
Thanks for the wire chart !
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Chris (Falcon) has the best set-up for sure (I was lazy in '93 with my long hot cable although as it worked for me I left it). Less of a fire hazard too from a chafed cable.
Still, need a thick cable to the solenoid even with a relocated solenoid. As to heat soak, nothing here will really help save a blanket or shield. If you run a OEM type Ford starter, a Powermaster or similar modern starter alone may solve your issue.
Batteries? Their like women.....gotta have one even though many are a pain the ass!
Seriously, it's a crap shoot as some love Optimas and others hate them. So, maybe a closed top standard wet cell battery (not sure one can even buy a one with the tops that come off any more).
I've run a cheapo Summit plastic battery box for years w/o issues. But, in a Cobra and for 'looks' see the link I provided as it has a pretty cool looking and quite functional hold-down set-up with a Optima type battery. It's a open style (can see the sides/top of the whole battery) while an enclosed box is highly recommended for a wet cell battery. Some sites also have some all-aluminum (and pricey!) fully enclosed boxes that look right pretty!
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Twice in the last several years, I've gone to the welding supply and found 'double ought' cable in suitable lengths in the 'odds-'n'-ends' box by the cable spools. I bought ends and they put them on for no extra charge. (They have the proper-size crimper.)
KS
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All good info but I'll add this; don't rely on chassis grounds, especially if you're running efi. Take a dedicated ground cable to the engine compartment and ground to the block. You also need to ground to the chassis, but that's for lights, gauges, etc. For efi or some electronic ignitions, you'll need a "clean" ground direct to the battery as well. Grounds are 99.9% of electrical problems. You can't have too much good grounding.
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If you are not using a PMGR starter, you should be. Also check for voltage drop and make sure all your grounds are solid, including engine to chassis.
On batteries - buy local with the best warranty/price and save the receipt. Mostly they are all crap, or great. I use the Duracell units from Sams. Easy return should one go bad. Optima from 2000 era was great. No so much anymore IMHO. Certainly not worth the $2xx price when I can get the same deal from Sams with a 3 yr warranty for around $165.
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I replaced the POS Optima in my ECTA car with a battery from Costco.
KS
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I've always used Diehard and mostly Interestate.
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If you are running a PMGR starter they don't really need that thick welding cable and can get by on a lighter 4 ga. A lot of modern cars come with batteries mounted in the rear and long cables for them are available at parts stores. A thick cable is no use if there is not a good connection between the cable and it's terminals.
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What is a PMGR ?
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I use a Optima red top, Anchor marine grade 1/ 0 battery cable, Hella keyed disconnect and a Aerospace Equipment billet battery mount.
http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/batterymountingbracket.aspx
Marine cable is very fine tinned wire, very flexible & very low voltage drop.
Use shrink tubing that has waterproofing sealer on cable ends. Marine use.
Battery mount is very classy looking. Battery sealed, needs no box.
Mount disconnect under dash & feed off it. Paint black, remove key, security.
Run cable inside corrugated wire loom protector, xtra safety.
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Forgot this
Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction ( pmgr )
AKA mini starter
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Don't have one but have heard that the PMGR starters are far less susceptible to heat soaking than OEM Ford starters.
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Don't have one but have heard that the PMGR starters are far less susceptible to heat soaking than OEM Ford starters.
Mine cranks 12.5cr making back to back passes all day in Ga heat
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Don't have one but have heard that the PMGR starters are far less susceptible to heat soaking than OEM Ford starters.
100%. Last longer, take up less space. On something like a 351C with a small bell (157T) C4 behind it, a stock starter won't even bolt up.