FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: My427stang on March 31, 2018, 06:11:58 PM
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I am having a tougher time finding voltage regulators that last for over a year or behave nicely, but I would like to keep my dual alternator belts and stock brackets
Does anyone have an easy swap for an FE that can take the dual groove pulley?
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I bought a Tough Stuff 100A 1 wire from Summit. They say it's a Ford alternator but truth is, it;s a slightly different casting and if it's top mounted, it will not clear the passenger side cyl. head. I had to convert mine to low mount.
As far as the pulley, the dual pulley should fit the same as a single. No difference there.
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Thanks Scott, would like to try to keep the top mount, but certainly an option over Chinese built regulators
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The stock alternator for many late 80's Fords take the same pulley and there are models that use the same mounting pattern, holes opposite each other. I used an 89 Mustang 5.0L one (2G) on my Meteors 332 and it charged great. the bigger case later 3G ones, over 100 amps will fit if the bracket hangs the alternator below the head, maybe not if it mounts in front of the head. Dual belts is needed on those but a single V belt ran the 2G just fine.
The one on the right is what I ended up using, I tried the left one and shredded three belts before giving it up. Both were easy to wire and used a an inline Megafuse on a 6ga wire.
Whoa, sorry for the actual size picture,
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_nhHk7TX3ws/maxresdefault.jpg)
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Just a quick hint on pictures that come across that size, right click and hit "view image" and it'll show you a full screen shot.
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You could try here. A bit pricey but.
http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=141915
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I am having a tougher time finding voltage regulators that last for over a year or behave nicely,
Have you ever tried the solid state Echlin regulator at NAPA? I'm not trying to change your mind on swapping alternators. Just curious if you ever tried one. I'm considering a 3G swap myself. Last summer the 45 year old point type regulator in my truck took a dump. It overcharged the shit out of my yellow top Optima. Way too aggressive for an AGM battery. The counter guy at NAPA talked me into trying the solid state regulator. It's probably made in China but it seems to take good care of the Optima.
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I am having a tougher time finding voltage regulators that last for over a year or behave nicely,
Have you ever tried the solid state Echlin regulator at NAPA? I'm not trying to change your mind on swapping alternators. Just curious if you ever tried one. I'm considering a 3G swap myself. Last summer the 45 year old point type regulator in my truck took a dump. It overcharged the shit out of my yellow top Optima. Way too aggressive for an AGM battery. The counter guy at NAPA talked me into trying the solid state regulator. It's probably made in China but it seems to take good care of the Optima.
Certainly another option, but I think I am going to go 3G, gives me a reason to clean up the wiring too compared to the stock setup. I am going to get a 7 inch 3G from a u-pull it yard and see how everything lines up and then make the call
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I put a 3G on my 68 F100, and kept the dual V-belt pulley, and was able to use original mounting brackets. IIRC I had to add a washer behind the pulley make it work correctly, but it all worked out well for me. (Also, IIRC, I believe mine was off a '95 Mustang, I've got notes somewhere)
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I use 3Gs on all my stuff now, but with the big 200 amp ones even the dual belts will tend to squeal a little on startup. The ribbed belts take care of that problem.
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Same here with 3g.
Anyone ever notice bulging AGMs?
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I had the same experience as Scott when I did the Cougar. In September I changed over to a CVR water pump, electric fans, and a 200A powermaster alternator. It would not mount in the top position so I had to get an under-mount bracket. I ended up shaving down the lower bracket a bit so it quit rubbing on the alternator housing and would allow me to tighten it completely. It looks pretty clean in the lower position however. Cleaned up the wiring a ton too.
(https://s31.postimg.org/44peutdor/IMG_3447.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Well...you can trash me if you want, but I've been using a Powermaster 8002 GM style 12si alternator on everything I've built for the last umpteen years.
100 amps, fit Ford brackets, and the stock Ford pulleys even fit. I was using a Ford dual belt pulley on my T-Bird.
I've never had one fail.
When the general has a Better Idea...I say run with it!
$125 at Summit or Jeggs.
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I use 3G units from the scrap yard on both cars. Use a bitty offbrand on the dragster. FYI - To swap from rip to belt sheaves on a 3G you may need to source a thin shim to go behind the sheave because they typically rub the case. Or machine the case a bit. I run 6 rib crank and alternator on the race cars, little or no slippage.
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I picked up a 3G and a Chevy internal regulator version.
Going to try the 3G first, and if I don't like it, I'll play with the GM. Hope to be doing it this weekend, pics to come. Thanks!
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I might be late to offer another senerio but I have had extremely good luck with these, https://store.alternatorparts.com/7078-conversion-regulator-for-1g-alternators.aspx (https://store.alternatorparts.com/7078-conversion-regulator-for-1g-alternators.aspx)
Nice to be able to keep stock everything while being able to ditch the extra wiring, fits flush of the rear bearing so it doesn't not inhibit fit. Also there is a rheostat built into the back to adjust voltage output if desired but Ive never needed to adjust one. Of course you are still limited by max alt output but in my opinion it makes the old 1g work better then ever. And it seems I have plenty of the old 1g's laying around for replacement but really they rarely fail.
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I don't use the SI-10 type GM units because - at least on the SBF and 351C - the case interferes with the cylinder head. They are longer than the Ford units.
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There was a GM alternator on my 61 Meteor when I bought it... quickly got rid of that! It was mounted in typical GM style too, about a ten degree angle off from the belt. Also like a GM it did the 2000rpm dance, quite spectacular how far the thing could move and not throw the belt.
The GM also uses a 3/8" bolt on the lower through hole, so either drill it larger or you can't use the 7/16" threaded hole in the block.
Not sure why those are so popular, I guess like all tilt columns being 70's GM style...monkey see monkey do.
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The 3G units use a 10mm bolt on the lower ear - you can keep a 10mm wrench handy, or drill/tap it out to 3/8-16 easy enough.
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Those 3G alternators never seem to wear out.
Back 10-20 years ago there was a foreign alternator that was being used. Maybe Nissen? It looked fairly close to the early 60-70's Autolite alternator only smaller. Anyone remember what exactly these were?
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I run a small Nippondenso clone on my dragster. About 50A. There is a kit to bump that somewhere on the web.