FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: John67427 on March 24, 2018, 04:12:36 PM
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MY first time doing my own valve springs. Chamfer and remove all sharp edges for retainers and seats. Articles I've read say not to clean with solvent. What do you use to clean the grit off? I understand if you don't oil the springs right after cleaning as rust could start. What is the proper procedure???
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I'm not a "professional builder" but, started building in 63 & have all ways used mineral spirits for final cleaning of springs.
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Solvent (mineral spirits), stiff brush if they're cruddy, rinse with hot water, spray with WD. I have NO idea why someone would say not to use solvent. Oil the springs before installation. You don't want dry springs on an engine when you start for the first time.
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I agree with Scott yet Comp Cams actually states do not clean springs with evaporative solvents (I did check their website btw).
They believe from their site that factory applied rust preventative coatings can be removed by some solvents. True as that may be, if one uses spirits, I don't see how this product could remove any coatings. Heck, on street rebuilds (fast and cheap!) we used to use virtually anything, gas, turpentine, brake cleaner, etc. to remove heavy crud but were careful after cleaning to WD-40 them to prevent rust from forming w/o any issues. Then, dumped them into a coffee can with oil before reinstalling.
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Per Barry on the other fe site.
Some springs of "exotic" materials are harmed by solvents.
I'm more red neck than exotic, I clean my hands with mineral spirits
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Thanks for the responses. They are Manley Nextex springs so this isn't a normal street build, I should have said that in the post. Mineral spirits is a weak solvent but good for cleaning.
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I need to respond on the other forum too - - I would hose them off with mineral spirits, air dry, and put them in a Tupperware tub of oil. I think Manley is worried about the use of chlorinated brake cleaner and similar aggressive products.
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Just for the heck of it I'll call Manley on Monday and see what they say about it. Will post how they say to clean them.
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Since the time I was a kid helping my Dad rebuild flatheads, we've always used kerosene to clean engine parts. I guess that's too low tech for people today, but I've never had a spring issue, or any other issue using it.
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How dirty are a set of fancy springs? Wash them in the sink with some Dove LOL
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How dirty are a set of fancy springs? Wash them in the sink with some Dove LOL
;D ;D ;D
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I could see them being concerned in having chlorinated solvents (MEK) and titanium alloys in contact, but spring steels should be impervious. I need to go do some reading now.
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I use PSC1000 from TSC in my wash tank - I don't see how that stuff could hurt any kind of material. I use a 20 gallon tank from Harbor Freight and modified it to run the pump output through a FL1-A filter to keep the fluid pretty clean. I wash everything.
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If springs are coated with an anti rust preservative, all the more reason to wash them. That stuff collects dust and dirt like a magnet. Put them in a clean plastic tub when you wash them ans see what comes off them. There isn't a part in an engine that should come out of the package and go into the motor without a good cleaning and inspection, minimum.
I also agree that spring steels are all but impervious to anything you're going to use to clean them.
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Since the time I was a kid helping my Dad rebuild flatheads, we've always used kerosene to clean engine parts. I guess that's too low tech for people today, but I've never had a spring issue, or any other issue using it.
Yep, agree on the kerosene. Relatively cheap and very effective.
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+3 on kerosene. Good cleaner and lubricant. A bucket last forever.
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Spoke to Manley and they said to use Simple Green, rinse, dry and apply oil. No brake clean!
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Cool! That means the cheapo citrus stuff should work as well.