FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: scott foxwell on February 15, 2018, 05:22:52 PM
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What's different about it? Anyone use one? Suitable for high performance use?
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Standard volume, but has same spring as HV pump, so it will have about 10-15 psi more than a standard volume. Basically pressure of a high volume, but not high volume....
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Standard volume, but has same spring as HV pump, so it will have about 10-15 psi more than a standard volume. Basically pressure of a high volume, but not high volume....
Thank you.
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That's the only one I use.
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That's the only one I use.
Thanks Blair. So, I'm used to taking oil pumps apart and bluprinting them. Smoothing out the passages, getting rid of rough spots, maybe doing a little anti cavitation work...but I see these Ford pumps aren't really made to be taken apart. How do you get the bypass assembly apart? Do you have to destroy the plug to get it out? I can see drilling it and using a slide hammer to get it out...but then what? Can you get replacement plugs or do you tap the hole for a set screw?
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Precision Oil Pumps will sell you any pieces you need. Doug is a good guy.
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Precision Oil Pumps will sell you any pieces you need. Doug is a good guy.
Must be something about the name...I don't know ;D
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Precision Oil Pumps will sell you any pieces you need. Doug is a good guy.
Thanks. Maybe on the next one. I'm going to button this thing up this weekend. I'll just play with it myself. Thank you for the input!
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Scott ,
In a pinch , "I" have pulled the plug as you mentioned and welded the hole up. Replaced the plug and "staked" it in place. Spme pickup flanges have an extension to prevent the plug from popping out. I even used a pop rivet once.
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Scott ,
In a pinch , "I" have pulled the plug as you mentioned and welded the hole up. Replaced the plug and "staked" it in place. Spme pickup flanges have an extension to prevent the plug from popping out. I even used a pop rivet once.
Thanks for that. Never considered welding up the hole in the cup. I was just going to thread the casting and make a plug. I'll play with it some this weekend. Thanks again.
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Well, that cup turned out to be something very hard and brittle. It came out in little pieces...eventually. I drilled a hole in it...with a carbide drill, bexause a HSS drill wouldn't touch it. Couldn't get a screw started in it to pry on so, since I was committed, I had to dig it out. That was no fun.
But...I managed. I got my work done on the housing and this was my solution to replacing the cup;
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27867315_2097026303657610_7072779659603817725_n.jpg?oh=bf3646465b89b657d11a81a34ed6874f&oe=5B02A420)
Had to drill and tap the housing for a 5/8-18 thread and then make a plug in the lathe.
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28058962_2097026843657556_7087138983306322210_n.jpg?oh=db1f2ba23fd4abae58d1dfd320cd2bff&oe=5B016BBF)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27972150_2097027303657510_6236194516389736714_n.jpg?oh=c008d6c681876252dc5d30a022d60612&oe=5B0F1A40)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27971894_2097027453657495_4173061330138540806_n.jpg?oh=b580b358213fa9b160e76e3b9b2d034f&oe=5B068B66)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28059040_2097028803657360_1842229248926891194_n.jpg?oh=add61a1d7054411257c52aa6046f7e9d&oe=5B0FA0BE]http://)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28058961_2097028133657427_1373971813176921589_n.jpg?oh=14e54a8ddfda0da32a26b953d6419827&oe=5B262578)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28058962_2097028420324065_2612329232150971818_n.jpg?oh=62f2fe6963ced594f0c6bf87b952293e&oe=5B143E3C)
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28059040_2097028803657360_1842229248926891194_n.jpg?oh=add61a1d7054411257c52aa6046f7e9d&oe=5B0FA0BE)
All ready to go back together.
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27971599_2097041800322727_7532419068533763566_n.jpg?oh=a9ca2dc2a12f415ec9ac6822dfe324f3&oe=5B058C99)
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You think that straight thread will seal? Pipe thread maybe better?
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You think that straight thread will seal? Pipe thread maybe better?
I'd have very little control over the depth of the plug with a pipe thread. I do this with BB Chev pumps all the time to make the bypass adjustable. I'll test this in a bucket of oil and once I have the pressure I want I'll use Loctite on it. I think it'll seal just fine. Most of the sealing will be from the shoulder at the bottom of the hole.
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Nice work! I agree that Loctite should seal it.
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You may want to think about spot facing the surface for the bolts going into the block while you're at it. If you snug one down with a precision flat washer, it looks ugly.
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After teardown, and blueprint, a simple and quick way that I have found to work after installing the new cup, is to drill through the housing through the cup with a small drill bit, and install a stainless steel cotter pin. Works well, simple, and plug is not going to move. Does not weaken the housing so as to create a crack. Joe-JDC
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That's the only one I use.
Blair (or anyone else), what kind of cold oil pressure do you see with this pump? I'm getting 85# in a bucket of oil with a drill motor. I'm thinking of backing it down a little...
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After teardown, and blueprint, a simple and quick way that I have found to work after installing the new cup, is to drill through the housing through the cup with a small drill bit, and install a stainless steel cotter pin. Works well, simple, and plug is not going to move. Does not weaken the housing so as to create a crack. Joe-JDC
I don't think the plug can come out with the pick up installed.