FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: billtroth on February 04, 2018, 04:32:26 PM
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I have the motor out of my ’64 Galaxie NSS car and I am considering using solid motor mounts when I re-install it. I have been running the chain to block trick but looks odd and, I need space for plumbing in Accusump tank. I am a little leery of fabricating a block plate with my limited welding skills. I have seen a post here on pinning the stock motor mounts with 3/8” bolts but, unless I am missing something that will only effect the passenger side. Also, I run a marine block and there are 4 holes machined for four-hole mount which I would like to use in lieu of the 2 bolt stock mounts. Has anyone fabricated and run solid motor mounts in their Galaxie with good results? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for input.
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it would effect the driver's side , I run the bolts through the rubber mounts and works ok for me . I think if you run solid mounts on a street car you will have more vibration than you want to put up with . jmo
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I have run a front motor plate with a urethane trans mount, vibration was not a issue. Mostly street with a few mid 10 passes.
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Solid (steel, not bolts in OEM rubber mounts) mounts are fine.
Just don't also run a solid trans mount as you WILL break a tranny case! Ask me how I know this!
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I agree with gdaddy. You only need to pin the driver mount, as it is the one trying to separate. Not a fan of solid mounts unless it is a block plate. Too much stress on the side of the block. Not sure if there are any aftermarket poly mounts for your Galaxie. I found a nice set for my car, that doesn't require a torque strap.
Edit: Maybe give this place a try if you don't want to pin your mounts. It says they have custom mounts for an FE.
http://www.tinmanfabrication.com
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Thanks for the information. The car is a strip only Nostalgia Super Stock with no street use. Jay's '64 Galaxie SOHC is one of the highest H.P. Galaxies there is. Jay ( or anyone else knows ) what mounts does it have?
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I use stock mounts with the bolt through them as described earlier in the thread. Never had a problem.
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Jay, thank you very much for the information. If that worked for you on your 9 second car it sure will work in my ( hopefully, its low 11's best now) high 10 second Galaxie. I'll drill and bolt.
Bill
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Do you also run a limiting strap when using the bolt through the motor mount on the higher horsepower cars?
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I use a 3/8 turnbuckle from the frame to the head. Also have done the 3/8 bolt in a motor mount trick - never had an issue with that.
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Do you also run a limiting strap when using the bolt through the motor mount on the higher horsepower cars?
I never used a limiting strap on my Galaxie, just the bolted together mount.
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So you don't think with an oem block at the 600hp level that the twisting forces on the block where the mount attaches could possibly stress or distort the block?
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My opinion is that's not a concern.
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Years ago, in the early 1970’s after breaking a few and not thinking about running a bolt thru , my brother made a solid set. He took measurements and removed the rubber. He then took strap steel and welded it to the outside perimeter. I’ve used them to this day. Not something I would do on a street vehicle as you really feel engine vibration in the car. Solid engine mount be sure to use urethane trans mount...
Used these on 4 different FE motors from 12,11,10 and 9 seconds and it doesn’t affect the mount area
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Many years back I made my own solid mounts using angle iron. Worked fine and used them in my black car for years. I finally wanted to get rid of the shaky vibration and put stock mounts back in it with a turnbuckle on the drivers side.
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If you are going to use the bolt through mount , I would suggest using a good grade of self locking nut on the bolt , that way you don't have to over tighten the nut on the bolt .
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Thanks. I'll remember to do that. Also some red Loctite.
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I've run solid engine mounts on the street/strip for quite a while. Replaced the rubber with welded in spacers. Noise and vibration increase is noticeable, but not as bad as you would think. The inside rear view mirror goes into a synchronous vibration which is annoying, but other than that, not too bad. Wouldn't do it on a daily driver or a car that would travel cross country.
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At one time I thought a torque strap was needed to pass tech.It should be in most cases.My car had a contoured piece of flat stock coming from the left head to the frame.This worked well for a while.After a couple of years I found that the leverage was crushing the right motor mount.The car now has straps on both sides.
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While on the subject of motor mounts, I have a question. I have a '67 428 in my 631/2 Galaxie 500 XL. It has the 63 motor mounts on it now, but wondering if the 67 style mounts will allow the bolt to line up in the hole on the 63. And would this be a stronger set-up if so?
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I HAVE RUN STOCK MOUNTS FOR YEARS ON THE STREET WITH TWO SHORT CHAINS WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF SLACK IN THEM,IT HAS NEVER FAILED ME ON STREET ENGINES
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While on the subject of motor mounts, I have a question. I have a '67 428 in my 631/2 Galaxie 500 XL. It has the 63 motor mounts on it now, but wondering if the 67 style mounts will allow the bolt to line up in the hole on the 63. And would this be a stronger set-up if so?
So your question is what is the interchangeability of early and later stock FE engine mounts?
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I HAVE RUN STOCK MOUNTS FOR YEARS ON THE STREET WITH TWO SHORT CHAINS WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF SLACK IN THEM,IT HAS NEVER FAILED ME ON STREET ENGINES
That's because I've heard your motor only puts out 150 HP. :P (kidding)
What size chains are yours ?
If I don't make soild mounts, I may go old school with a strap.