FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: cjshaker on February 01, 2018, 10:35:36 AM
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I'm collecting the stuff for my Mach 1 to switch over to a complete AN style fuel system. I was wondering which is best for fittings, aluminum or steel? I've heard a few problems that can pop up with aluminum fittings, but have never heard of any issues with steel. Are there any downsides to steel? Any other issues or potential problems to look out for?
Also, how do AN fittings fit on rigid fuel lines? I assume there are specific fittings for hard line and braided? This is my first time using them, so I need to get up to speed on the subject.
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I used the cheap summit brand stuff on my junk. Braided line and aluminum fittings. No problems at all. On my fairlane i have a stock gas tank, made my own sender out of 1/2" hard line, ans used a hard line to an fitting adapter. Works slick.
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The only downside that i can think of with steel is wheight
Add upp a lot on a full system ??? :D
There is different fittings for braided and hardline
Dont know realy wish is ” real” AN as in
Army Navy . Different ways to get the fitting to conecct
to hard line, stick to the same brand on all fittings
On the hard line you have a compression sleve that could
differ from one brand to another. On the braided line the
fitting goes inside of the hose
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I've had alum line and braided on my wagon for 20+ yrs without issue. Only thing with aluminum is being careful when starting a nut as you don't want to strip the threads. It needs to start by HAND, then snug with wrench. You won't have issues beyond that.
If you run aluminum line, you install the nut and ferrel then single flare the line. Slip the ferrel up against the flare and tighten down on your fitting. It doesn't take much so you don't ever wrench them tight. Just snug.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UPV4_uyZF1Y/T6hkGjc84PI/AAAAAAAABDQ/FMFxm9QsSK0/s1600/IMG_0441.JPG)
I would not suggest running braided line from the tank up unless you use the nylon line style. The rubber WILL degrade and leak. I had a carb line turn into a sprinkler a few years back. It is short so it was not an issue to replace(I did both as you know if one is bad the other will follow).
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I like aluminum fittings and ss braided line with cpe liner. Handels any fuel and extremely abrasive resistant.
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Aluminum on my car, steel on my boat at work. Of course the difference is about 3000psi.
Downside of aluminum is you can screw up the threads as mentioned, the benefit tho is the flare seals better due to the ease it conforms vs steel.
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The Guy that did my heads have a Chevelle
With a 638 he had braided hose from tank to
engine and the hose ”colapsed” inside so
it starved the engine on higher rpm
He swaped carb for a bigger one and testing
that he got the problem. Offcause he thought
the problem was with the new carb. Took him
a while to find
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I will definitely be running hard line from the tank to the front, only using braided line where it's necessary (I've seen braided line fail several times). Most likely just a short section of braided line to the pump, then the 2 short lines from the fuel block to carbs. I'll use a filter with AN fittings also. Much like the factory system, just converted to 1/2" with AN fittings. I'll be using the RobbMc 1/2" pick-up with AN option, up to a Clay Smith pump with return style regulator.
Thanks for the feedback. I knew aluminum would be much easier to work with, and seal easier, and I think I can refrain from being a gorilla when attaching stuff. :)
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I will definitely be running hard line from the tank to the front, only using braided line where it's necessary (I've seen braided line fail several times). Most likely just a short section of braided line to the pump, then the 2 short lines from the fuel block to carbs. I'll use a filter with AN fittings also. Much like the factory system, just converted to 1/2" with AN fittings. I'll be using the RobbMc 1/2" pick-up with AN option, up to a Clay Smith pump with return style regulator.
Thanks for the feedback. I knew aluminum would be much easier to work with, and seal easier, and I think I can refrain from being a gorilla when attaching stuff. :)
I'm glad you mentioned that...do you have a link to Rob's website? Thanks.
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http://www.robbmcperformance.com/
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I used the cheap summit brand stuff on my junk. Braided line and aluminum fittings. No problems at all. On my fairlane i have a stock gas tank, made my own sender out of 1/2" hard line, ans used a hard line to an fitting adapter. Works slick.
Same here. No problem after about 5 years. And just used them again for my Sniper install. I aint calling them cheap though :)
(https://s6.postimg.org/bnh6hzvcx/IMG_20171130_190737.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4x0p8k871/)
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Rubber-core hose will fail after a few years. I've had it happen with the original feed lines I used in a DCOE Weber installation I did some years ago.
It's sometimes hard to find in the larger sizes, -6 up, but Teflon inside the SS braid will last practically forever. You don't use SS braid for its cheap, but for its indestructibility. Do it right, do it once.
KS
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I used the RobbMc 1/2" pickup in mine. I also used Moroso 1/2" aluminum line from rear frame rail to front frame rail, just before where the factory line comes through the inner fender. Then I joined the aluminum line to some Aeroquip socketless hose. Also have the same adapter fitting in the rear to connect to my electric fuel pump at the tank. The AN to hard tube adapters are a simple compression fitting style. They have worked very well for me. The socketless hose does not require a hose clamp. If you have ever installed the socketless fittings, you will see why there are no hose clamps. The hose goes on HARD! Trust me, the ONLY way to get the hose back off the fittings is to cut it off. They have a clean look to them.
Here are the adapter fittings I used:
www.summitracing.com/search/department/fittings-hoses/brand/summit-racing/part-type/tube-adapter-fittings/product-line/summit-racing-an-to-tube-adapter-fittings?autoview=SK
I really like the Aeroquip socketless hose. It comes in blue or black. I like to buy the fittings here:
https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/16_categoriesproducts.asp?idcategory=263
It is a local place to me and I can stop in and get what I need. Also, have about the best price on the fittings that I have found. I also use their pre made braided brake hoses to run to my oil and fuel pressure gauges. I use the -03AN for oil and -04AN for fuel.
No problems for me with aluminum fittings. Just take your time starting them and make sure the flare is clean of dirt every time you assemble. I like to use gear oil or similar lube on the threads, just enough so they aren't dry. The Earl's fittings are very nice. I have used them also. A little pricier, though. I like the shade of blue slightly better on the Earl's stuff...
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Rubber-core hose will fail after a few years. I've had it happen with the original feed lines I used in a DCOE Weber installation I did some years ago.
It's sometimes hard to find in the larger sizes, -6 up, but Teflon inside the SS braid will last practically forever. You don't use SS braid for its cheap, but for its indestructibility. Do it right, do it once.
KS
I have no plans to use anything other than the teflon lined hose. It's pretty much a necessity these days. And I don't do anything on the cheap. If there's one thing I hate, it's having to do something twice.
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Jared, thanks very much for those links. That helped in knowing what I was looking for and at. I've used those socketless hose fittings, and yes they work nice but are hard to get the hose on. Typically it helps to heat the hose end up a little bit, but it's a fine line between just enough and too much heat. For my Mach though, I think I'd feel a bit better with a compression style fitting.
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A friend of mine turned me on to the Aeroquip socketless hose & fittings years ago, that's pretty much all I use now, along with hard line when I can.
There is a slick tool available for assembling the socketless hose, a bit spendy but worth it if you are going to do a bunch. You can buy it direct from the company or from Summit. Here's a link:
https://koultools.com/product/push-lock-hose-tool/
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Typically it helps to heat the hose end up a little bit, but it's a fine line between just enough and too much heat.
Yes, I also heat the end with a small propane torch with a soft flame and use lots of WD-40. I tried all kinds of oils and found the WD-40 worked the best for me.