FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Arizona ‘58Mercury on December 25, 2017, 11:43:40 AM
-
So living in Hell, aka Phoenix Az. For the most part the motor is stock 390 from a 65 tbird and going into a 58 Merc Monterey. Not planning on a whole lot of summer driving but even now it’s in the 60’s and 70’s. Any suggestions on radiators that flow and cool more efficiently? Thanks in advance
-
We were talking about this on another board.
From my experience in Las Vegas, I would a good radiator, likely 3 core if brass, 2 core if 1.25 core aluminum, as big as will fit in the space, then focus on airflow. A full shroud and a fixed fan, like the Flexalite steel or aluminum with the bent tip, as big as you can, will move a lot of air through the radiator. That should do very well for you.
It's the airflow that does it.
-
Okay, I will start sifting through manufacturers. Any preference brass over aluminum?
-
I have had 2 made thru these guys, US radiator is the mfg.
http://www.coolcraft.com/radiators/ford.html
-
Any preference brass over aluminum?
For me that goes according to the build style because both can be very efficient.
I would think brass would be at home in a '58 Merc. Having said that I chose a cross flow aluminum for my mustang. It just fit the build style. My trucks and wagon will stay brass.
BTW I live in LA where it's slow and almost go traffic in 100 degree weather much like yours all summer.
Shroud and fan (airflow) are the keys along of course with a well working clean system.
-
I agree with Marc, it's all about the packaging. My F100s stock radiator works fine and allows a factory shroud and a big fan. The Mustang I went with a crossflow aluminum, but honestly, if I did it again I likely would have went with a 3 or 4 row stocker to make shroud fitment easier.
You really can't go wrong here, I'd look and see what you think will fit, maybe a big factory design off another year will allow a shroud/radiator combo that will fit with minor modification
-
Sounds good, thanks guys!
-
If using a belt driven fan, over drive pulleys will help...lot better than under drive pulleys for cooling when crawling through town.
-
I sometimes use a cardboard in front of my radiator when its 30-40 minus ;D
-
LOL
-
I used a 4 core aluminum radiator and derale high-output duel fan and shroud kit 16927 160 deg thermostat and davids craig fan controller.
This is over kill temps here are over 40deg C very often car runs at 170 deg F down fall is i have about 5 mm between the water pump pulley bolts and the fans and i need to remove the water pump first to remove the fan/shroud and radiator and the fans are high power draw. Did a bunch of small mods to fan shroud and radiaor to make it work in my 66 fairlane. Ill post a pic soon so you all can laugh at just how much over kill i have.
-
i will tell you something else to watch out for.i had the bottom rad hose suck flat when it got warm,it took a while to figure out why it was overheating.if i stopped and looked under the hood everything looked normal idling,but one day i revved the carb with the hood up and i saw something move,it was the bottom hose sucking flat every time i revved it, while driving it stayed flat under power,so use a good hose on the bottom,preferably with a spiral wire in it.
-
I sometimes use a cardboard in front of my radiator when its 30-40 minus ;D
Having recently been in Phoenix, I rule you out of order. ;D i use aluminum and it gets pretty hot here. Aluminum likes hot water - 195 or better.
-
Like mentioned a great designed shroud can help immensely !
For my 427 Cobra I had a Griffen 600HP aluminum three core radiator, with just one large electric fan and a 195 thermostat.
Temps in our Nebraska summer will be around 90-100 ° and high humidity. In city traffic my big block would get to 130°,
when driving it would come down to 105°. I live 10 miles from the city, so after a few miles it would come downto 195 °.
To lower the temps I would remove the tnermostat in the summer.
When I built my shroud to completely surround my fan and raditor, things changed,.... almost too much. lol
The summer temps came down to 195° (great) might creep up to 205° in very hot temps traffic times.
In heat below 70° and on the highway, came down below 165°, and below 55° to under 150°, with my fan OFF.
I my not have these fluctuates in many cars, but the lenght from the nose of the car to the radiator is like a mile long.
I want to install my Cobra correct,......dual 6" fan essemble's mounted in front, of the radiator. So on hot days in traffic
I can turn them on to suck air into the radator from the front, then use the fan behind it.
Sounds,.... logical anyway. Lol .....
My long point is, get a well made aluminum (not brass) 3 to 4 core radiator and a great made shroud.
You won't regret the price. They, like anything, need to work together, or it'll be a waste of time, money and possibly your engine.
-
Here is all the info you need:
https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-article-us-radiator
-
Ron Davis radiators is local to you. I had a double pass dual spahl(sp.) fan in my off road turbo car and it NEVER overheated. They are pricey, but worth it to me.
-
I live in Illinois and certainly don't have the summer temperatures like you do in Phoenix but I have run the same Ron Davis radiator in my '64 Galaxie NSS car for almost 15 years without problems.
-
I'm in the Phoenix area (Desert Hills / New River) and my '65 / 352 was my best friends daily driver for about 5 years when we were kids. Pretty sure it has a <insert your local "cheap" parts store here> sourced radiator and neither he or I ever had cooling problems with the car. This is with a simple arc of sheet metal over the ancient "flexi-fan" acting as a shroud. He drove it daily in city traffic and we spent many 100+ degree nights idling in creeping traffic while cruising Central.
I'm not suggesting that going cheap on a radiator - when I replace this one I'll probably do some sort of overkill aluminum unit - probably from Ron Davis or someone like him - but I'd be pretty surprised if a mild 390 would cause problems for an OEMish radiator if you get decent airflow through it.
Just my 2 cents... :)