FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: cattleFEeder on November 13, 2017, 10:07:51 PM
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What is the downside to using studs to mount headers?
Do you use bluelocktite , or hand tighten them?
Does it matter if the heads are cast iron or aluminum.
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I imagine the downside would be that on most vehicles it'd be really hard to mount the headers with studs in the way.
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What is the downside to using studs to mount headers?
Do you use bluelocktite , or hand tighten them?
Does it matter if the heads are cast iron or aluminum.
Rare to see exhaust port studs as Drew mentioned. If it's an FE in just about any body save a Galaxie sized Ford, after plopping in the engine, no way IMO that the headers could ever be removed save for yanking the engine out.
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Header bolts have a smaller than normal head, so you would need a bigger wrench.
I like to start some of my lower bolts since my flanges are slotted in a few spots, this way I can hang my headers while trying to get the other bolt started. That being said, I wish they made longer header bolts since I use washers over these slotted holes.
Also I use anti-seize not Loctite in this application....JMO
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Rare to see exhaust port studs as Drew mentioned. If it's an FE in just about any body save a Galaxie sized Ford, after plopping in the engine, no way IMO that the headers could ever be removed save for yanking the engine out.
Headers can be removed without pulling the engine, even in Mustangs, although you'll typically have to remove a motor mount and/or jack one side of the engine up. But I agree that studs on headers isn't a common thing, and that it'd likely make it much more difficult to accomplish removal/installation in a shock towered car. I don't really see any advantage to using them either. Any form of Loctite would be rendered pretty useless due to the heat present at that area. Usually the opposite is desired, a healthy dose of some form of high-temp anti-seize, regardless if it's aluminum or iron.
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Flange nuts would be too large to fit in a variety of places. 351C, 302 either one has some really tight fits and on the 302, there are several start this one, then that one, then work these down together before starting those over there. Also not unusual to grind on the already small flange under the bolt head on a standard header bolt. I do use a couple of "studs" - bolts with heads cut off - to hang a header while starting the real bolts.
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The solution to nut clearance when using a stud is a "jet nut". Very small OD for the stud diameter.
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Well the thought process was easy install outside of the car using high temp silicone.
But its an Fe going into a 66 fairlane so header removal would not happen in that engine bay.
I just thought they might have better clamping force than bolts. Thanks for the input , I will stay with the bolts, makes life easier.
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i dont know about using all studs but if you have a header bolt strip the threads in the head exhaust i have screwed in a stud and it hold as a repair
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But its an Fe going into a 66 fairlane so header removal would not happen in that engine bay.
I've heard of doing that, but on the Falcon - and Mustang - that has the same shock towers, I don't see how it's possible to get in or out with headers on the motor. 351C 4V, the typical 1 7/8" tubes are too big to pass the towers in any orientation. Maybe FE tucks in tighter or some such?
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If you use studs , do not get the auto parts store Dorman brand . I put some in a 440 cry. with manifolds , one broke , not from over tightening , pull the motor up , removed the manifold , drill broken stud out . bolted the manifold back on , let the motor back down . the next morning , checked the torque , the other manifold had a broken stud , this happen overnight , with no one messing with it . same drill of pulling the motor back up , welded a flat washer and nut on this one to get it out . never seen studs break like that . I will not be putting anymore Dorman studs in anything , high Quality chinese parts . but we are saving money , lol