FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: 427HISS on November 12, 2017, 06:43:54 PM
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Since I have a standered ceiling height single garage, I have a "MaxJax" car lift and love it. I can't stand up to work on my 427 Cobra, but can sit on a stool/chair etc. I'll be installing my FE engine and new Tremec 600 this winter. Usually with a friend's help, we'll muscle the tranny up and install it,but now at 55 years old and, with two torn rotator cup's , it's gonna hurt.
So, I'm thinking about a trans jack, just depends on which style.
A local guy has a Central Hydralics floor jack style trans jack, that was used twice. New their $300, he wanted $200,but I got him down to $125.
Nice deal, but I don't know how much I'll use it ?
I have two floor jacks, a Michelin floor 3.5 ton jack and a racing aluminum low profile for my Cobra.
The second type is the "Jack Adapter", for floor jacks and cost around $37 (+)
So what's your suggestion, different type or other ideas and why ?
Kevin
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Kevin I work out of a small garage also. I have to say being able to sit under the car would be great.
I'm still in the jack it up and put jacks under four corners for getting under it world.
By far the best tool I ever bought from Harbor Freight is their trans jack. It goes pancake flat and if I remember extends to 40 or so inches. I use it for lifting rear ends and anything else heavy for the cars. If you work without a lift it's perfect. Since you have a short lift I'm betting it would be great for you also.
I wouldn't buy many things from Harbor Freight but this is a great tool.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/transmission-jacks/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
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That first jack adapter in your image is no good unless the car is high, it is strong enough but difficult to adjust with heavy transmission loaded on it. The one from Harbour Freight looks far better.
Graem
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I'm not sure about the scissor lift. Is it stable ?
The adapter type does not look very strong, maybe a use once and through it away. lol
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Yeah the scissor deal is stable.
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I checked out that Harbor Frieght transmission jack, and plan to buy one soon. However, with an empty engine bay, I prefer to install the trans and bellhousing in the car first when possible, and than install the engine. My boss has an ERA Cobra , and from looking underneath that car, it looks like installing the trans after the engine is in would be rather difficult due to the frames crossmember design. When possible, I like to install an engine and transmission together, in one piece, but you can not do that with all vehicles due the space limitations.
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I`ve got the HF scissors jack and have used it many times. It is tipsy when fully extended but manageable. I use a 1/2" air wrench to extend it up and a 1/2' drive rachet for final adjustment. The heaviest tranny I had on it was my E4OD from my diesel, defiantly a 2 man job on that one. the strap leave a lot to be desired. but I made due with it.
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When I have the chance I do as Rory.
I install the transmission first from the engine bay. I'll have it hanging by a cherry picker and some soft straps hooked into the bellhousing.
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I bought a HF trans jack and it did fine. I have only used it once, but at 56 I can't do a manual trans by myself anymore.
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This was cheaper than the Max Jax, and I will be modifying the ceiling later one for a bit more height. I can go 49" as is with the Mustang.
(http://raceabilene.com/misc/NewShop/Lift/W-9FLiftwCar.jpg)
I have found over time that it's much easier to just pull engine+trans rather than just the trans. Have to drop the headers and race exhaust to get the trans out anyway, at that point it's just a few bolts, four hoses, driveshaft and the shifter cable to pull the whole thing. On the Mustang, have to drop the steering linkage to get the headers out, so there's even more work already done on the Mustang. I can have the 302+trans out of the Falcon in about an hour, Only use the jack enough to get the trans mount out and free the shifter cable and driveshaft.
When I have pulled a trans, I just land the pan on the floor jack then slide it off onto a piece of cardboard and horse it out from under.
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on your lift , when you get used to the height that you can raise your car and clear the ceiling or rafters , you may have a mark on your lift somewhere to know how far you can go up , DON'T use that mark with the hood open , not good , I know , it was dumb on my part ,but maybe someone can learn from my mistake .
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I had a "Group Buy" on the Maxjax and sold 6 units, so they gave me one free, also a telescoping oil changer and a motorcycle/atv adapter that goes on one post's arms. All I paid was shipping on the lift. The lift works fantastic.
After raising my Cobra to the highest point, I found that I had lots of room to the ceiling, because of the low height of the Cobra.
If I wanted to sell or trade it for a regular size I might. All I would need to do is cut holes in my garage floor, dig out for a 6" depth of concrete and cut square holes in my ceiling so to have 3"-4" of each post going through it. Maybe,....a slice of drywall cut out of the ceiling for the rollbar.
If I get my office done soon enough and my office computer hooked up, I'll post some pics of my garage, lift and Cobra inside to show what I mean.