FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Rory428 on August 03, 2017, 01:02:45 PM
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For decades I have always used regular old Mr. Gasket, and more recently, ARP black steel header bolts, never had any issues with them. However, my FPA headers came with a set of shiny stainless steel header bolts, but I am wondering if I should use them. I have heard some people say that stainless steel bolts tend to gall up and seize , especially in high heat applications. Any body know if thats true or an old wives tale? I`d hate to find out the hard way! This is with factory cast iron heads, if that makes a differance. Thanks.
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I've used stainless ARP bolts on all my FE engine headers for years without issue. Think you're safe to use them.
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I've been using the ARP stainless header bolts for decades on cast iron heads, no issues, but I do use anti-seize.
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Maybe okay on cast iron but I'm not sure I'd use them in a head with thread inserts. We have all kinds of issues with stainless bolts galling and seizing up in tools that see temperatures less than four hundred F. We try to always pitch the stainless and use alloy bolts before they come out, insert and all.
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I use them with aluminum heads on the dragster - with plenty of anti-seize.
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The only time stainless is a problem is when it's on stainless. Stainless nuts and bolts, stainless bolts into stainless, etc. Then you're asking for trouble. Stainless into cast iron or aluminum should never be a problem and if you're concerned you can use a little anti seize...but I also agree about being careful with stainless inserts in aluminum. I wouldn't do that.
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Stainless bolts come in several alloys. The cheapest is the 18-8 which is very common and is junk. I have had them seize with regular steel nuts. Fastenal love to sell these to the unwary. as for bolts that I use in my manifolds I found bronze bolts work very well. I have them in both my 427s with no problems. I do check them ever couple of yrs and they haven`t come loose yet.
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Rory, are you sure they're stainless? A magnet will tell you for sure. I recently bought a set of FPAs for my Galaxie and all the bolts provided were a shiny cad-plated steel. I'm going to replace them with ARP stainless header bolts because here in SE Tx the cad plated ones will turn into little balls of rust in no time. I've used the ARPs before and they've worked fine with cast iron. No experience with aluminum yet but I'll make sure and use anti-seize.
Bruce
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Bronze has a tensile strength of 35,000 psi mild steel is 80,000.
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I like Bronze, don't know if I would use it for header bolts, but it can be pretty strong.
"Silicon bronze bolts, hex head, fully threaded with either coarse or fine thread to ASME/ANSI B18.2.1 specifications in alloy 651 for sale on this site. High corrosion resistance and good electrical conductivity. This silicon bronze alloy 651 offers a tensile strength of 70 - 100 KSI and a yield strength of 55 KSI minimum. It has a hardness of 75-95 HRB.
http://www.aaronssiliconbronzefasteners.com/SiliconBronzeBolts.htm
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Bruce, I just ASSumed that the FPA header bolts were stainless steel, based on their appearance. I will check them with a magnet tommorrow, and maybe give Stan a call a FPA a call to see what he says. I kinda like the ARP black header bolts because of the smaller (3/8" hex head) give a bit more wrench room. Problem is, all the local shops have is 3/4" long header bolts, with the thick flanges on the FPA headers, I would prefer to use 1" long bolts.I guess regardless of what header bolts I use, never seize would be a good idea. Thanks for all the replys, guys.
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I've used Stage 8 SS locking bolts w/anti-seize for years in aluminum (SBF) heads and love 'em.
https://www.stage8.com/ford-performance-locking-fasteners/
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Used ARP stainless for decades without issue in both iron and aluminum heads with inserts. A blob of anti-seize is always used.
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My experience of working with stainless for many years in the
industry. Stainless bolt and nut together the least speck of dirt
or sand can make them weld them self together. And stainless
dry in aluminium is a big risk of galling, Where there was heat
involved we used molybdendisulfid (whatewer the English name
is for that)Dry,or mixed with oil where there was no heat
And don't use powertools on stainless bolts, the speed multiply
the risk for seizing
So clean the treads use antiseize and hand tools and you will be fine
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SS bolts into aluminum, nickel based never seize, zero problems. I have wondered some about the copper vs. nickel base for never seize products, I have both kinds and always use the copper on rotors and brake drums and undercarriage hardware before replacing. Removes the need to haul out the BFH to break them loose later in our salty climate. Is there a better choice base for different applications or is it a horse apiece? Don't mean to sidetrack the thread, just curious.
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Rory, are you sure they're stainless? A magnet will tell you for sure.
404 Stainless is magnetic, so that's not a universal test.
I use copper anti-seize on plugs in aluminum and silver on bolts and such.
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SS bolts into aluminum, nickel based never seize, zero problems. I have wondered some about the copper vs. nickel base for never seize products, I have both kinds and always use the copper on rotors and brake drums and undercarriage hardware before replacing. Removes the need to haul out the BFH to break them loose later in our salty climate. Is there a better choice base for different applications or is it a horse apiece? Don't mean to sidetrack the thread, just curious.
Lead based anti-sieze is the best for high heat applications. It is also very good for most other applications. Just don't eat it.
McMaster-Carr has it.
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I use stainless on my headers and throughout my engine. No issues.
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Try not to use copper anti seize on aluminum, if any water with traces of salt gets added its a very quick and ugly outcome.
People on boats are very aware of this.
Joel
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I always use the silver colored anti-seize that to me smells like gunpowder. Anyone know its chemical name or composition as I'm sure it contains no copper?
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I have used the 12 point large flange 1" under head ARP stainless bolts for years as header bolts. 12 pt. head is great for tight situations and access as I can use a shorty 3/8" Gear Wrench to get them all in and then crank down with a regular 3/8" box. I've used teflon dry lube and nickel based antisieze with equal success. ARP also has 5/16" 12 point header bolts for really tight spots as in pretty much all FE header installs I've had experience with. I think 1" under head is the minimum for 3/8" flange headers. Always chase the threads first, but you knew that.
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I ended up using the FPA supplied header bolts. They are 6 point 5/16 x 1 inch long, and I used silver NevRSeeze on the threads. Although the 12 point bolts normally work fine on the 2 bolt exhaust ports, I am using 16 bolt Cobra Jet heads, and always try to install as many as I can. Due to the curve of the header pipes, there were 2 on each side that simply will not go in, and a couple that had to be started with the flange away from the head to get the bolt started, Even still, I needed to use 1 3/4 inch long bolt at 1 hole. On several spots, an open end wrench is all that will fit, so rather than have a mix of 6 & 12 point, I went all 6 point. I left the starter out to provide more access to the lower bolt at the right rear, pleasantly suprised that installing the starter with the headers on was as easy as could be,plus the starter cable stud is nowhere hear the header tubes. Very well designed headers for a FE engine in a 57-59 Ford car. Other than some minor clutch linkge work, they were a breeze to install. MUCH much nicer than installing the headers on my old 390 66 Fairlane or 428 CJ 70 Mach 1, or the custom made headers on my 427 FE powered 4 speed 78 Fairmont!!!
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I am a superintendent in heavy civil construction. and see stainless gall and seize all the damn time. For extra insurance, always and I mean always use copper based antisieze!
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Don't drop any down the header tubes! I did that and spent all day removing an exhaust system since a magnet won't get it out. This was on a car where the headers won't move with the engine in place and the 3" stainless exhaust has an X and crossmembers below it.